[Mad Roger]

Need help figuring out what to MEASURE when adjusting a self-adjusting
clutch pedal bolt.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3835507bolt.jpg

I've adjusted the bolt all the way in, half way, and all the way out:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8057083bolt2.jpg

No matter whether I adjust the bolt all the way inside the clutch pedal
(turning it CCW facing the pedal like a foot would).

Or if I turn the adjusting bolt all the way out of the clutch pedal
(turning it CW).
Or halfway between...

I don't feel any "slop" anywhere (e.g., between the rounded tip and the
master cylinder piston cup). The *feel* of the clutch pedal engagement
changes drastically between all the way in and all the way out though.

But clutch pedal feel is not the question (mainly because I don't know how
it "should" feel). So the question is only about what to measure, and how.

The question is only about WHAT to measure with a ruler and how to measure
it.

[Oren[_2_]]

On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 20:30:48 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger
wrote:

Need help figuring out what to MEASURE when adjusting a self-adjusting
clutch pedal bolt.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3835507bolt.jpg

I've adjusted the bolt all the way in, half way, and all the way out:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8057083bolt2.jpg

No matter whether I adjust the bolt all the way inside the clutch pedal
(turning it CCW facing the pedal like a foot would).

Or if I turn the adjusting bolt all the way out of the clutch pedal
(turning it CW).
Or halfway between...

I don't feel any "slop" anywhere (e.g., between the rounded tip and the
master cylinder piston cup). The *feel* of the clutch pedal engagement
changes drastically between all the way in and all the way out though.

But clutch pedal feel is not the question (mainly because I don't know how
it "should" feel). So the question is only about what to measure, and how.

The question is only about WHAT to measure with a ruler and how to measure
it.

Why is it you think the clutch pedal "feel" is not an aspect of the
adjustment? The throw out bearing needs to release from the clutch
plate in the bell housing. You can't adjust it by a ruler. You need
a little slop in the pedal so the plate is not always engaged at the
risk of burning the plate.

....at least back in the day. Two cents.

[Paul Hovnanian P.E.]

The rod (bolt) needs to be adjusted so that there is about 0.1" clearance
between the end of the rod and the clutch master cylinder piston with the
pedal 'up' (not pressing it). You can't see the piston or where the rod
contacts it, so you have to do it by feel. Push the pedal gently by hand*
until the space is taken up. If you can't feel any space, you might have it
too tight. Back the rod out of the master cylinder until the clearance is
obvious and then gradually extend it. When it's correct, tighten the jamb
nut to keep it in place.

The idea is that the clutch master cylinder has to be able to 'relax' all
the way rearward when not pushing on the clutch. At the last point in it's
travel, the piston opens up the port to the fluid reservoir and lets fluid
in to make up for leakage.

*Feeling the rod clearance is easier by hand. Your foot isn't sensitive
enough to judge the small amount of play.
--
Paul Hovnanian
------------------------------------------------------------------
Never put off till run-time what you can do at compile-time. -- D. Gries

[Mad Roger]

On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 18:02:04 -0800,
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:

The rod (bolt) needs to be adjusted so that there is about 0.1" clearance
between the end of the rod and the clutch master cylinder piston with the
pedal 'up' (not pressing it).

Thanks for the advice as, well, as I NEED advice.

I can't disagree about the measurement, but I'm not sure how to measure
that.

The problem is that I don't *feel* any slop with my hand pushing along the
axis of the bolt away and then toward the master cylinder.

You can't see the piston or where the rod
contacts it, so you have to do it by feel.

I know what it looks like as I rebuilt the master cylinder, so I know what
you're talking about.

I just don't feel any slop at all no matter how I adjust the bolt.

Push the pedal gently by hand*
until the space is taken up.

I'll have to try this again. Hopefully I can hear a click or feel the
"space" being taken up.

If you can't feel any space, you might have it too tight.

I'll try again.

Back the rod out of the master cylinder

That means to turn the bolt INTO the pedal (and away from the master
cylinder), which is, in effect, a shortening of the bolt.

until the clearance is
obvious and then gradually extend it.

OK. That sounds like a plan.
It's a normally threaded bolt which is threaded into the clutch pedal.

Is this a good plan?
1. Shorten the bolt by screwing the bolt into the clutch pedal assembly.
2. Then feel for slop (there "should" be plenty of slop, I would think)
between the end of the bolt and the master cylinder (this is on the other
side of the firewall so it has to be done by feel)
3. Once I get a feel for the slop, then lengthen the bolt by twisting the
bolt OUT of the clutch pedal, which "lengthens" it.

When it's correct, tighten the jamb
nut to keep it in place.

That part I understand!

The idea is that the clutch master cylinder has to be able to 'relax' all
the way rearward when not pushing on the clutch. At the last point in it's
travel, the piston opens up the port to the fluid reservoir and lets fluid
in to make up for leakage.

That makes sense.
Thanks.

*Feeling the rod clearance is easier by hand. Your foot isn't sensitive
enough to judge the small amount of play.

I'll try again now that I understand it a bit more.
I agree that even my hand isn't sensitive enough, so a foot will never do
it.

[Mad Roger]

On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 13:13:56 -0800,
Oren wrote:

Why is it you think the clutch pedal "feel" is not an aspect of the
adjustment? The throw out bearing needs to release from the clutch
plate in the bell housing. You can't adjust it by a ruler. You need
a little slop in the pedal so the plate is not always engaged at the
risk of burning the plate.

...at least back in the day. Two cents.

It's not my vehicle, and the "feel" stinks no matter what position it's in.

What changes is that it engages early, or late, but not in a way that I
like either way.

So I can't adjust it by feel because there is no position that feels right
to me.

Therefore, I just want to adjust it by the book.

If only I knew what to measure as I think it's for a millimeter or two of
'slop' between the rounded end of the bolt and the master cylinder piston
cup.

But I don't feel that slop in any case.
And I don't know where to measure it either.

Hence the question.

[Xeno]

On 27/01/2018 1:47 PM, Mad Roger wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 13:13:56 -0800,
Oren wrote:

Why is it you think the clutch pedal "feel" is not an aspect of the
adjustment? The throw out bearing needs to release from the clutch
plate in the bell housing. You can't adjust it by a ruler. You need
a little slop in the pedal so the plate is not always engaged at the
risk of burning the plate.

...at least back in the day. Two cents.

It's not my vehicle, and the "feel" stinks no matter what position it's in.

The feel doesn't stink just because *you* don't like it.

What changes is that it engages early, or late, but not in a way that I
like either way.

It will either take up early or it will take up late. It cannot do both,
either one or the other. Clutches simply cannot work the way you are
imagining they do.

So I can't adjust it by feel because there is no position that feels right
to me.

This is a situation where pedancy will stuff you up right royally.

Therefore, I just want to adjust it by the book.

Do you have the *book* handy? If not, you are lost.

The method used to adjust a clutch will depend entirely on the mechanism
employed. There are 3 general possibilities in common use; hydraulic,
cable, mechanical linkage. Each of those will have variants and the
differences will make a difference to how and where it is adjusted.

Best you get to it and RTFM.

If only I knew what to measure as I think it's for a millimeter or two of
'slop' between the rounded end of the bolt and the master cylinder piston
cup.

But I don't feel that slop in any case.

If you can't feel the play, it doesn't have any.

If it is meant to have play, then fix it so it does.

And I don't know where to measure it either.

For master cylinder clearance - At the pedal pushrod in most cases.
For slave cylinder clearance - at the slave cylinder in most cases.

Hence the question.



--

Xeno

[[email protected]]

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 16:37:44 +1100, Xeno
wrote:

Therefore, I just want to adjust it by the book.

Then go to the dealer and ask them for the spec sheets. No one on here
can answer you. You did not evne mention the brand of vehicle.

[Mad Roger]

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 02:47:48 -0000 (UTC),
Mad Roger wrote:

I agree that even my hand isn't sensitive enough, so a foot will never do
it.

I think the problem is mostly that I don't feel any free play.

Here's a screenshot of the manual process.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2707505pedal1.png

And the spec.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4030196pedal2.png

But you have to *feel* that slop in order to measure it.
I don't know why I don't feel any slop.

[Look165]

Normally, there should be about 1/2 inch between the resting position of
the pedal annd its thrust position (completey up. This is for preventing
continuous fricton inside the clutch.

Mad Roger a écritÂ*:
Need help figuring out what to MEASURE when adjusting a self-adjusting
clutch pedal bolt.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3835507bolt.jpg

I've adjusted the bolt all the way in, half way, and all the way out:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8057083bolt2.jpg

No matter whether I adjust the bolt all the way inside the clutch pedal
(turning it CCW facing the pedal like a foot would).

Or if I turn the adjusting bolt all the way out of the clutch pedal
(turning it CW).
Or halfway between...

I don't feel any "slop" anywhere (e.g., between the rounded tip and the
master cylinder piston cup). The *feel* of the clutch pedal engagement
changes drastically between all the way in and all the way out though.

But clutch pedal feel is not the question (mainly because I don't know how
it "should" feel). So the question is only about what to measure, and how.

The question is only about WHAT to measure with a ruler and how to measure
it.

[Xeno]

On 27/01/2018 10:52 PM, Look165 wrote:
Normally, there should be about 1/2 inch between the resting position of
the pedal annd its thrust position (completey up. This is for preventing
continuous fricton inside the clutch.

It is actually there to guarantee that the piston can fully return to
its stop (circlip usually) and fully uncover the compensating port
allowing pressure in the slave cylinder and lines to release and fluid
to return to the master cylinder reservoir. If this does not happen, the
system may pump up and slave cylinder will not return thus not applying
or only partially applying the clutch. The most common symptom of this,
apart from a lack of pedal clearance, is a clutch that slips.

Also, it is wise not to dick with the pedal height adjustment as you may
end up with more MC travel than previously existed. That can result in a
torn or damaged primary seal if the piston is now traveling over an
unworn part of the cylinder or, worse, a part of the cylinder that has
corrosion buildup on the unworn part.

Frankly, if Roger needs to find out how to do the job from advice here,
he'd be well advised to hand the task over to someone with a clue. This
is basic stuff, hardly high tech, and he's *struggling*.

Mad Roger a écritÂ*:
Need help figuring out what to MEASURE when adjusting a self-adjusting
clutch pedal bolt.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3835507bolt.jpg

I've adjusted the bolt all the way in, half way, and all the way out:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8057083bolt2.jpg

No matter whether I adjust the bolt all the way inside the clutch pedal
(turning it CCW facing the pedal like a foot would).

Or if I turn the adjusting bolt all the way out of the clutch pedal
(turning it CW).
Or halfway between...

I don't feel any "slop" anywhere (e.g., between the rounded tip and the
master cylinder piston cup). The *feel* of the clutch pedal engagement
changes drastically between all the way in and all the way out though.

But clutch pedal feel is not the question (mainly because I don't know
how
it "should" feel). So the question is only about what to measure, and
how.

The question is only about WHAT to measure with a ruler and how to
measure
it.




--

Xeno

[Mad Roger]

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 00:16:13 +1100,
Xeno wrote:

Frankly, if Roger needs to find out how to do the job from advice here,
he'd be well advised to hand the task over to someone with a clue. This
is basic stuff, hardly high tech, and he's *struggling*.

Here's a screenshot of the manual process.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2707505pedal1.png

And the spec.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4030196pedal2.png

The measurement is about 160 mm in the resting position.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6041860bolt3.jpg

Pushing gently with my finger, I can measure the lower position.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8845966bolt4.jpg

This #2 measurement seemed to be about 5mm but my only confusion left is
that these two things seem to be the same thing:
A. Pedal freeplay
B. Pushrod play

The reason they seem to be the same thing is that, with one finger on the
pedal, you can push the pedal down about 5mm until you hear and feel the
pushrod hit the master cylinder piston cup.

I can't yet distinguish between the two (freeplay & pushrod play) with my
finger or measurement at the top of the rubber part of the pedal position.

[Oren[_2_]]

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 02:47:50 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 13:13:56 -0800,
Oren wrote:

Why is it you think the clutch pedal "feel" is not an aspect of the
adjustment? The throw out bearing needs to release from the clutch
plate in the bell housing. You can't adjust it by a ruler. You need
a little slop in the pedal so the plate is not always engaged at the
risk of burning the plate.

...at least back in the day. Two cents.

It's not my vehicle, and the "feel" stinks no matter what position it's in.

What changes is that it engages early, or late, but not in a way that I
like either way.

So I can't adjust it by feel because there is no position that feels right
to me.

Therefore, I just want to adjust it by the book.

If only I knew what to measure as I think it's for a millimeter or two of
'slop' between the rounded end of the bolt and the master cylinder piston
cup.

But I don't feel that slop in any case.
And I don't know where to measure it either.

Hence the question.

....oh Bubba. Bless your heart. See if I can figger a Redneck
Swampbilly method.

How are you tryin' to "feel" the adjustment of the clutch pedal?

Are you using your hand or using your foot?

Have you put the car in gear?

Rocked the car back and forth to see if the adjustment is to loose or
about just right?

Will the car jalopy down the road?

Does it sit there in gear and not move?

Maybe you are being sensitive. I got more ideas
--
"Dodgeball in Burkas" -- Greg Gutfeld

[Oren[_2_]]

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 02:47:48 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 18:02:04 -0800,
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:

Paul gave a great explanation.


You can't see the piston or where the rod
contacts it, so you have to do it by feel.

I know what it looks like as I rebuilt the master cylinder, so I know what
you're talking about.

I just don't feel any slop at all no matter how I adjust the bolt.


Lordy this is getting somewhere...

Did you bleed the cylinder (purge it of air)?

As stated by Paul the cylinder has to be relaxed.

Look up bench bleeding a master cylinder... how to
--
"Dodgeball in Burkas" -- Greg Gutfeld

[Clare Snyder]

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 16:37:44 +1100, Xeno
wrote:

On 27/01/2018 1:47 PM, Mad Roger wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 13:13:56 -0800,
Oren wrote:

Why is it you think the clutch pedal "feel" is not an aspect of the
adjustment? The throw out bearing needs to release from the clutch
plate in the bell housing. You can't adjust it by a ruler. You need
a little slop in the pedal so the plate is not always engaged at the
risk of burning the plate.

...at least back in the day. Two cents.

It's not my vehicle, and the "feel" stinks no matter what position it's in.

The feel doesn't stink just because *you* don't like it.

What changes is that it engages early, or late, but not in a way that I
like either way.

It will either take up early or it will take up late. It cannot do both,
either one or the other. Clutches simply cannot work the way you are
imagining they do.

So I can't adjust it by feel because there is no position that feels right
to me.

This is a situation where pedancy will stuff you up right royally.

Therefore, I just want to adjust it by the book.

Do you have the *book* handy? If not, you are lost.

The method used to adjust a clutch will depend entirely on the mechanism
employed. There are 3 general possibilities in common use; hydraulic,
cable, mechanical linkage. Each of those will have variants and the
differences will make a difference to how and where it is adjusted.

Best you get to it and RTFM.

If only I knew what to measure as I think it's for a millimeter or two of
'slop' between the rounded end of the bolt and the master cylinder piston
cup.

But I don't feel that slop in any case.

If you can't feel the play, it doesn't have any.

If it is meant to have play, then fix it so it does.

And I don't know where to measure it either.

For master cylinder clearance - At the pedal pushrod in most cases.
For slave cylinder clearance - at the slave cylinder in most cases.

Hence the question.

Better than 90% of vehicles with standard transmissions today have
NO MANUAL ADJUSTMENT PROVISIONS.

Mad MaX is an IDIOT.

[Clare Snyder]

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 00:16:13 +1100, Xeno
wrote:

On 27/01/2018 10:52 PM, Look165 wrote:
Normally, there should be about 1/2 inch between the resting position of
the pedal annd its thrust position (completey up. This is for preventing
continuous fricton inside the clutch.

It is actually there to guarantee that the piston can fully return to
its stop (circlip usually) and fully uncover the compensating port
allowing pressure in the slave cylinder and lines to release and fluid
to return to the master cylinder reservoir. If this does not happen, the
system may pump up and slave cylinder will not return thus not applying
or only partially applying the clutch. The most common symptom of this,
apart from a lack of pedal clearance, is a clutch that slips.

Also, it is wise not to dick with the pedal height adjustment as you may
end up with more MC travel than previously existed. That can result in a
torn or damaged primary seal if the piston is now traveling over an
unworn part of the cylinder or, worse, a part of the cylinder that has
corrosion buildup on the unworn part.

Frankly, if Roger needs to find out how to do the job from advice here,
he'd be well advised to hand the task over to someone with a clue. This
is basic stuff, hardly high tech, and he's *struggling*.


The poor lad reminds me of the Irisnman I shared the house with in
Zambia. Anything more complex than a retractable ball-point pen had
him totally flummoxed. To keep his level of frustration below the
point of "blowing smoke" he was restricted to using Bic stick pens
(pencils were no good because a pencil sharpener was beyond his level
of comprehension)



Mad Roger a écrit*:
Need help figuring out what to MEASURE when adjusting a self-adjusting
clutch pedal bolt.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3835507bolt.jpg

I've adjusted the bolt all the way in, half way, and all the way out:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8057083bolt2.jpg

No matter whether I adjust the bolt all the way inside the clutch pedal
(turning it CCW facing the pedal like a foot would).

Or if I turn the adjusting bolt all the way out of the clutch pedal
(turning it CW).
Or halfway between...

I don't feel any "slop" anywhere (e.g., between the rounded tip and the
master cylinder piston cup). The *feel* of the clutch pedal engagement
changes drastically between all the way in and all the way out though.

But clutch pedal feel is not the question (mainly because I don't know
how
it "should" feel). So the question is only about what to measure, and
how.

The question is only about WHAT to measure with a ruler and how to
measure
it.

[Clare Snyder]

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 13:39:16 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 02:47:48 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 18:02:04 -0800,
Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:

Paul gave a great explanation.


You can't see the piston or where the rod
contacts it, so you have to do it by feel.

I know what it looks like as I rebuilt the master cylinder, so I know what
you're talking about.

I just don't feel any slop at all no matter how I adjust the bolt.


Lordy this is getting somewhere...

Did you bleed the cylinder (purge it of air)?

As stated by Paul the cylinder has to be relaxed.

Look up bench bleeding a master cylinder... how to


Except you never need to bench bleed a clutch master. Virtually never
need to bench bleed a disc brake master either. You CAN get into a
world of hurt if you don't bench bleed a drum brake master (it has
residual pressure valves onthe outlet) but I've gotten away without
bench bleeding even a LOT of drum brake masters.

MOST clutch masters will "gravity bleed"

[Xeno]

On 28/01/2018 8:47 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 16:37:44 +1100, Xeno
wrote:

On 27/01/2018 1:47 PM, Mad Roger wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 13:13:56 -0800,
Oren wrote:

Why is it you think the clutch pedal "feel" is not an aspect of the
adjustment? The throw out bearing needs to release from the clutch
plate in the bell housing. You can't adjust it by a ruler. You need
a little slop in the pedal so the plate is not always engaged at the
risk of burning the plate.

...at least back in the day. Two cents.

It's not my vehicle, and the "feel" stinks no matter what position it's in.

The feel doesn't stink just because *you* don't like it.

What changes is that it engages early, or late, but not in a way that I
like either way.

It will either take up early or it will take up late. It cannot do both,
either one or the other. Clutches simply cannot work the way you are
imagining they do.

So I can't adjust it by feel because there is no position that feels right
to me.

This is a situation where pedancy will stuff you up right royally.

Therefore, I just want to adjust it by the book.

Do you have the *book* handy? If not, you are lost.

The method used to adjust a clutch will depend entirely on the mechanism
employed. There are 3 general possibilities in common use; hydraulic,
cable, mechanical linkage. Each of those will have variants and the
differences will make a difference to how and where it is adjusted.

Best you get to it and RTFM.

If only I knew what to measure as I think it's for a millimeter or two of
'slop' between the rounded end of the bolt and the master cylinder piston
cup.

But I don't feel that slop in any case.

If you can't feel the play, it doesn't have any.

If it is meant to have play, then fix it so it does.

And I don't know where to measure it either.

For master cylinder clearance - At the pedal pushrod in most cases.
For slave cylinder clearance - at the slave cylinder in most cases.

Hence the question.

Better than 90% of vehicles with standard transmissions today have
NO MANUAL ADJUSTMENT PROVISIONS.

Mad MaX is an IDIOT.

Yep, manufacturing tolerances have improved out of sight in recent years.

--

Xeno

[Xeno]

On 28/01/2018 8:52 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 00:16:13 +1100, Xeno
wrote:

On 27/01/2018 10:52 PM, Look165 wrote:
Normally, there should be about 1/2 inch between the resting position of
the pedal annd its thrust position (completey up. This is for preventing
continuous fricton inside the clutch.

It is actually there to guarantee that the piston can fully return to
its stop (circlip usually) and fully uncover the compensating port
allowing pressure in the slave cylinder and lines to release and fluid
to return to the master cylinder reservoir. If this does not happen, the
system may pump up and slave cylinder will not return thus not applying
or only partially applying the clutch. The most common symptom of this,
apart from a lack of pedal clearance, is a clutch that slips.

Also, it is wise not to dick with the pedal height adjustment as you may
end up with more MC travel than previously existed. That can result in a
torn or damaged primary seal if the piston is now traveling over an
unworn part of the cylinder or, worse, a part of the cylinder that has
corrosion buildup on the unworn part.

Frankly, if Roger needs to find out how to do the job from advice here,
he'd be well advised to hand the task over to someone with a clue. This
is basic stuff, hardly high tech, and he's *struggling*.


The poor lad reminds me of the Irisnman I shared the house with in
Zambia. Anything more complex than a retractable ball-point pen had
him totally flummoxed. To keep his level of frustration below the
point of "blowing smoke" he was restricted to using Bic stick pens
(pencils were no good because a pencil sharpener was beyond his level
of comprehension)

Yep, had the same experience in Indonesia - with a South African
co-worker what's more.


Mad Roger a écritÂ*:
Need help figuring out what to MEASURE when adjusting a self-adjusting
clutch pedal bolt.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3835507bolt.jpg

I've adjusted the bolt all the way in, half way, and all the way out:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8057083bolt2.jpg

No matter whether I adjust the bolt all the way inside the clutch pedal
(turning it CCW facing the pedal like a foot would).

Or if I turn the adjusting bolt all the way out of the clutch pedal
(turning it CW).
Or halfway between...

I don't feel any "slop" anywhere (e.g., between the rounded tip and the
master cylinder piston cup). The *feel* of the clutch pedal engagement
changes drastically between all the way in and all the way out though.

But clutch pedal feel is not the question (mainly because I don't know
how
it "should" feel). So the question is only about what to measure, and
how.

The question is only about WHAT to measure with a ruler and how to
measure
it.




--

Xeno

[Clare Snyder]

On Sun, 28 Jan 2018 11:19:41 +1100, Xeno
wrote:

On 28/01/2018 8:47 AM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 16:37:44 +1100, Xeno
wrote:

On 27/01/2018 1:47 PM, Mad Roger wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 13:13:56 -0800,
Oren wrote:

Why is it you think the clutch pedal "feel" is not an aspect of the
adjustment? The throw out bearing needs to release from the clutch
plate in the bell housing. You can't adjust it by a ruler. You need
a little slop in the pedal so the plate is not always engaged at the
risk of burning the plate.

...at least back in the day. Two cents.

It's not my vehicle, and the "feel" stinks no matter what position it's in.

The feel doesn't stink just because *you* don't like it.

What changes is that it engages early, or late, but not in a way that I
like either way.

It will either take up early or it will take up late. It cannot do both,
either one or the other. Clutches simply cannot work the way you are
imagining they do.

So I can't adjust it by feel because there is no position that feels right
to me.

This is a situation where pedancy will stuff you up right royally.

Therefore, I just want to adjust it by the book.

Do you have the *book* handy? If not, you are lost.

The method used to adjust a clutch will depend entirely on the mechanism
employed. There are 3 general possibilities in common use; hydraulic,
cable, mechanical linkage. Each of those will have variants and the
differences will make a difference to how and where it is adjusted.

Best you get to it and RTFM.

If only I knew what to measure as I think it's for a millimeter or two of
'slop' between the rounded end of the bolt and the master cylinder piston
cup.

But I don't feel that slop in any case.

If you can't feel the play, it doesn't have any.

If it is meant to have play, then fix it so it does.

And I don't know where to measure it either.

For master cylinder clearance - At the pedal pushrod in most cases.
For slave cylinder clearance - at the slave cylinder in most cases.

Hence the question.

Better than 90% of vehicles with standard transmissions today have
NO MANUAL ADJUSTMENT PROVISIONS.

Mad MaX is an IDIOT.

Yep, manufacturing tolerances have improved out of sight in recent years.


It's got very little to do with "manufacturer's tollerances" -
althought they ARE a lot better. The main thing is they are "self
adjusting"

[=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?=]

Clare Snyder posted for all of us...



On Sat, 27 Jan 2018 16:37:44 +1100, Xeno
wrote:

On 27/01/2018 1:47 PM, Mad Roger wrote:
On Fri, 26 Jan 2018 13:13:56 -0800,
Oren wrote:

Why is it you think the clutch pedal "feel" is not an aspect of the
adjustment? The throw out bearing needs to release from the clutch
plate in the bell housing. You can't adjust it by a ruler. You need
a little slop in the pedal so the plate is not always engaged at the
risk of burning the plate.

...at least back in the day. Two cents.

It's not my vehicle, and the "feel" stinks no matter what position it's in.

The feel doesn't stink just because *you* don't like it.

What changes is that it engages early, or late, but not in a way that I
like either way.

It will either take up early or it will take up late. It cannot do both,
either one or the other. Clutches simply cannot work the way you are
imagining they do.

So I can't adjust it by feel because there is no position that feels right
to me.

This is a situation where pedancy will stuff you up right royally.

Therefore, I just want to adjust it by the book.

Do you have the *book* handy? If not, you are lost.

The method used to adjust a clutch will depend entirely on the mechanism
employed. There are 3 general possibilities in common use; hydraulic,
cable, mechanical linkage. Each of those will have variants and the
differences will make a difference to how and where it is adjusted.

Best you get to it and RTFM.

If only I knew what to measure as I think it's for a millimeter or two of
'slop' between the rounded end of the bolt and the master cylinder piston
cup.

But I don't feel that slop in any case.

If you can't feel the play, it doesn't have any.

If it is meant to have play, then fix it so it does.

And I don't know where to measure it either.

For master cylinder clearance - At the pedal pushrod in most cases.
For slave cylinder clearance - at the slave cylinder in most cases.

Hence the question.

Better than 90% of vehicles with standard transmissions today have
NO MANUAL ADJUSTMENT PROVISIONS.

Mad MaX is an IDIOT.

I wonder if this is the clutch he "replaced"?

He doesn't know the olde heat and bend the rod trick... maybe use some all
thread and burn an adjustment hole in the floorboard.

--
Tekkie

[=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?=]

Clare Snyder posted for all of us...


The poor lad reminds me of the Irisnman I shared the house with in
Zambia. Anything more complex than a retractable ball-point pen had
him totally flummoxed. To keep his level of frustration below the
point of "blowing smoke" he was restricted to using Bic stick pens
(pencils were no good because a pencil sharpener was beyond his level
of comprehension)


Sharp as a marble aye?

--
Tekkie