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Cultured Marble Shower Stall Re-Caulking



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 12th 07, 11:10 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Cultured Marble Shower Stall Re-Caulking

I have a cultured marble shower stall that the Silicone caulking looks
bad on, black mildew behind the white caulking. I had this shower
stall installed 2 years ago & it looks like crap already. Where it
looks bad is along where the floor and walls meet. There is not a
"pan" for the floor, it is a more flat cultured marble piece that has
a rough non-slippery surface that the walls sit on.

I have removed all of the old silicone & was ready to put in new
silicone. My dad says to use grout instead, that it will hold up
better and be easier to install. I thought I had heard that grout was
not waterproof?

My question is, can I use grout in this joint along the floor in the
shower stall? Will it hold up? If so is there a type of grout that
would work best?

I do hate working with silicone, it is such a mess & the stuff I
worked all day to dig out was only there 2 years.

Thanks in advance!

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  #3  
Old May 13th 07, 02:30 AM posted to alt.home.repair
Joe
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Posts: 2,842
Default Cultured Marble Shower Stall Re-Caulking

On May 12, 5:10 pm, wrote:
I have a cultured marble shower stall that the Silicone caulking looks
bad on, black mildew behind the white caulking. I had this shower
stall installed 2 years ago & it looks like crap already. Where it
looks bad is along where the floor and walls meet. There is not a
"pan" for the floor, it is a more flat cultured marble piece that has
a rough non-slippery surface that the walls sit on.

I have removed all of the old silicone & was ready to put in new
silicone. My dad says to use grout instead, that it will hold up
better and be easier to install. I thought I had heard that grout was
not waterproof?

My question is, can I use grout in this joint along the floor in the
shower stall? Will it hold up? If so is there a type of grout that
would work best?

I do hate working with silicone, it is such a mess & the stuff I
worked all day to dig out was only there 2 years.

Thanks in advance!


Once you have used silicones, nothing else will adhere. Any grout will
fail in a matter of days. This time, use the right kind of silicone,
the stuff formulated for tubs and showers which is mold and mildew
resistant. Read the label on the product to be sure you bought the
right kind. One unique property of silicones is that they form a
terrific bond with old silicone material, so if you develop a bit of a
technique for the caulking it will look fine and perform better than
you expected. Good luck.

Joe

  #4  
Old May 15th 07, 04:19 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 87
Default Cultured Marble Shower Stall Re-Caulking

wrote on 12 May 2007 in group
alt.home.repair:

I have a cultured marble shower stall that the Silicone caulking looks
bad on, black mildew behind the white caulking. I had this shower
stall installed 2 years ago & it looks like crap already. Where it
looks bad is along where the floor and walls meet. There is not a
"pan" for the floor, it is a more flat cultured marble piece that has
a rough non-slippery surface that the walls sit on.

I have removed all of the old silicone & was ready to put in new
silicone. My dad says to use grout instead, that it will hold up
better and be easier to install. I thought I had heard that grout was
not waterproof?

My question is, can I use grout in this joint along the floor in the
shower stall? Will it hold up? If so is there a type of grout that
would work best?

I do hate working with silicone, it is such a mess & the stuff I
worked all day to dig out was only there 2 years.


Grout works poorly in corners, regardless of the surface material. The
perpendicular sides flex under load or expand and contract at different
rates, causing the grout to crack and pop out. Always use caulk in
corners.

As others have said, make sure you buy the right silicone. I use the
stuff that specifically says "bath" and "100% silicone".

For neater joints, put tape on either side of the joint before you start
applying the caulk. That will give you nice, straight lines. Pull it off
after you smoothe the joint, but before the caulk dries.

Wear some TIGHT-FITTING rubber gloves. Have a rag ready with the solvent
specified on the tube, because you WILL get some where you don't want
it. Have some more of the solvent standing by with paper towels.
 




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