Last time I tried posting here, the msg never showed up, so this is
something of a test as well as a genuine request.

I bought an old Case garden tractor last year. My neighbor, a
farmer/logger/machinist had rebuilt the engine. This old unit has
battery ignition, i.e. coil and points, with a generator/starter.

It used to die on occasion after a stretch of especially hard work.
Let it cool off for a few hours and it would go again. But this year
one day it died for good.

After finding no spark, I measured the coil with a meter and
discovered the primary winding was open. Got a new coil (along with
points, condensor and plug) and tried the measurement with the new one
just for future reference just to make sure I knew what I was doing.
Measuring the "points" terminal to the +12 terminal I saw the primary
coil resistance, and between "points" and HT terminal, there was the
secondary coil resistance. (I believe this coil may also include a
resistor in the primary, but I don't know that for certain.)

I got it all back together, used it several times and it was running
like a dream, never better. Then the other day, again after a stretch
of particularly hard work (but certainly not the first on the new
parts) wound up close to max rpm, it died.

Lo and behold, the primary winding has gone open on the brand new
coil(!) Just bad luck to get a bum coil, coincidence that the old one
failed? The guy who supplied it is going to exchange it for me but I
gotta wonder if there's a coil-eating problem in this machine.

There's not much else I can think of to suspect except the old
mechanical voltage regulator (and no, unfortunately, I never checked
voltage while running but I surely will). But two experienced repair
guys assure me that there is no way, even if the coil was getting full
unregulated voltage, that it should fail. I'm not so sure.

Other opinions? It's a two-hour drive to pick up a replacement coil,
and I'm not keen to repeat this exercise this year if I can help it.

Would you replace the old mechanical voltage reg just on spec? Should
I be able to find a ready solid-state replacement? Should I care?

Oh, and why is the sky blue?

End of test.

-=s

I can tell you why the sky is blue, but your coil problem, that's a
different matter.
If your Kohler engine is a model K, I believe they make a nice pointless
ignition kit for it, however that only eliminates the points. My guess is
that you've got a bad regulator and I've gotta believe sending high voltage
into the coil will cook it. When you get the new one, run the engine with a
voltage meter across the coil and see






"Scott Willing" wrote in message
...
Last time I tried posting here, the msg never showed up, so this is
something of a test as well as a genuine request.

I bought an old Case garden tractor last year. My neighbor, a
farmer/logger/machinist had rebuilt the engine. This old unit has
battery ignition, i.e. coil and points, with a generator/starter.

It used to die on occasion after a stretch of especially hard work.
Let it cool off for a few hours and it would go again. But this year
one day it died for good.

After finding no spark, I measured the coil with a meter and
discovered the primary winding was open. Got a new coil (along with
points, condensor and plug) and tried the measurement with the new one
just for future reference just to make sure I knew what I was doing.
Measuring the "points" terminal to the +12 terminal I saw the primary
coil resistance, and between "points" and HT terminal, there was the
secondary coil resistance. (I believe this coil may also include a
resistor in the primary, but I don't know that for certain.)

I got it all back together, used it several times and it was running
like a dream, never better. Then the other day, again after a stretch
of particularly hard work (but certainly not the first on the new
parts) wound up close to max rpm, it died.

Lo and behold, the primary winding has gone open on the brand new
coil(!) Just bad luck to get a bum coil, coincidence that the old one
failed? The guy who supplied it is going to exchange it for me but I
gotta wonder if there's a coil-eating problem in this machine.

There's not much else I can think of to suspect except the old
mechanical voltage regulator (and no, unfortunately, I never checked
voltage while running but I surely will). But two experienced repair
guys assure me that there is no way, even if the coil was getting full
unregulated voltage, that it should fail. I'm not so sure.

Other opinions? It's a two-hour drive to pick up a replacement coil,
and I'm not keen to repeat this exercise this year if I can help it.

Would you replace the old mechanical voltage reg just on spec? Should
I be able to find a ready solid-state replacement? Should I care?

Oh, and why is the sky blue?

End of test.

-=s

"Scott Willing" wrote in message
...
Last time I tried posting here, the msg never showed up, so this is
something of a test as well as a genuine request.

I bought an old Case garden tractor last year. My neighbor, a
farmer/logger/machinist had rebuilt the engine. This old unit has
battery ignition, i.e. coil and points, with a generator/starter.

It used to die on occasion after a stretch of especially hard work.
Let it cool off for a few hours and it would go again. But this year
one day it died for good.

After finding no spark, I measured the coil with a meter and
discovered the primary winding was open. Got a new coil (along with
points, condensor and plug) and tried the measurement with the new one
just for future reference just to make sure I knew what I was doing.
Measuring the "points" terminal to the +12 terminal I saw the primary
coil resistance, and between "points" and HT terminal, there was the
secondary coil resistance. (I believe this coil may also include a
resistor in the primary, but I don't know that for certain.)

I got it all back together, used it several times and it was running
like a dream, never better. Then the other day, again after a stretch
of particularly hard work (but certainly not the first on the new
parts) wound up close to max rpm, it died.

Lo and behold, the primary winding has gone open on the brand new
coil(!) Just bad luck to get a bum coil, coincidence that the old one
failed? The guy who supplied it is going to exchange it for me but I
gotta wonder if there's a coil-eating problem in this machine.

There's not much else I can think of to suspect except the old
mechanical voltage regulator (and no, unfortunately, I never checked
voltage while running but I surely will). But two experienced repair
guys assure me that there is no way, even if the coil was getting full
unregulated voltage, that it should fail. I'm not so sure.

Other opinions? It's a two-hour drive to pick up a replacement coil,
and I'm not keen to repeat this exercise this year if I can help it.

Would you replace the old mechanical voltage reg just on spec? Should
I be able to find a ready solid-state replacement? Should I care?

Oh, and why is the sky blue?

End of test.

-=s

I know what the problem is if it was a car. Missing or shorted ballast
resistor. I don't know if kohler uses them though.
For those young'ins that don't know about old ignition systems a ballast
resistor limits the coils voltage to about 9volts. The coils are designed to
operate at this voltage. The only time the coil sees 12v is when the starter
is engaged. This allows for a hotter spark (overloads the coil) for
starting. If there is no resistor than coil will see 12v while running and
it's life will be greatly shortened.
If this is the case than don't replace coil with a stock unit. Get one that
operates on constant 12v.

"calhoun" wrote in message
...

"Scott Willing" wrote in message
...
Last time I tried posting here, the msg never showed up, so this is
something of a test as well as a genuine request.

I bought an old Case garden tractor last year. My neighbor, a
farmer/logger/machinist had rebuilt the engine. This old unit has
battery ignition, i.e. coil and points, with a generator/starter.

It used to die on occasion after a stretch of especially hard work.
Let it cool off for a few hours and it would go again. But this year
one day it died for good.

After finding no spark, I measured the coil with a meter and
discovered the primary winding was open. Got a new coil (along with
points, condensor and plug) and tried the measurement with the new one
just for future reference just to make sure I knew what I was doing.
Measuring the "points" terminal to the +12 terminal I saw the primary
coil resistance, and between "points" and HT terminal, there was the
secondary coil resistance. (I believe this coil may also include a
resistor in the primary, but I don't know that for certain.)

I got it all back together, used it several times and it was running
like a dream, never better. Then the other day, again after a stretch
of particularly hard work (but certainly not the first on the new
parts) wound up close to max rpm, it died.

Lo and behold, the primary winding has gone open on the brand new
coil(!) Just bad luck to get a bum coil, coincidence that the old one
failed? The guy who supplied it is going to exchange it for me but I
gotta wonder if there's a coil-eating problem in this machine.

There's not much else I can think of to suspect except the old
mechanical voltage regulator (and no, unfortunately, I never checked
voltage while running but I surely will). But two experienced repair
guys assure me that there is no way, even if the coil was getting full
unregulated voltage, that it should fail. I'm not so sure.

Other opinions? It's a two-hour drive to pick up a replacement coil,
and I'm not keen to repeat this exercise this year if I can help it.

Would you replace the old mechanical voltage reg just on spec? Should
I be able to find a ready solid-state replacement? Should I care?

Oh, and why is the sky blue?

End of test.

-=s

I know what the problem is if it was a car. Missing or shorted ballast
resistor. I don't know if kohler uses them though.
For those young'ins that don't know about old ignition systems a ballast
resistor limits the coils voltage to about 9volts. The coils are designed
to operate at this voltage. The only time the coil sees 12v is when the
starter is engaged. This allows for a hotter spark (overloads the coil)
for starting. If there is no resistor than coil will see 12v while running
and it's life will be greatly shortened.
If this is the case than don't replace coil with a stock unit. Get one
that operates on constant 12v.
Agree there may, or should be, a resistor in series with the 12 volts to the
coil? See Note.
If that resistor (which in some cases may be built into the coil or may be a
separate item) is missing or short circuited the full 12 volts is applied
continuously to the coil, too much current flows, which eventually overheats
and burns out the coil. Resistors are more likely to go 'open' than shorted
though? maybe someone removed an original one? Or the original could 'take'
a full 12 volts, continuously?
Another, less likely reason might be a bad battery? A really bad battery
might allow the voltage to climb when engine running to say 16 or 18 volts,
again too much current and the coil might burn out. However if battery
capable of starting the engine it is unlikely that this would happen.
Recall old, hand-crank start vehicles with batteries so bad that the lights
would brighten up as engine revved and die right down dim when engine slowed
down. So the voltage was varying widely!
Note. On some more sophisticated engines I seem to recall that the resistor
would be out of the circuit while starting, in order to get a stronger spark
while starting? Once engine was running the resistor was back in the circuit
to avoid coil burn out? This was either done automatically as part of the
electric starter circuit or manually with or as part of the starter switch?
Good luck with the tractor.

Terry wrote:
.....
Recall old, hand-crank start vehicles with batteries so bad that the lights
would brighten up as engine revved and die right down dim when engine slowed
down. So the voltage was varying widely!

That's a bad/non-functioning regulator more likely than the battery
itself...

that kohler coil for that uses a built in resistor so id get the right
one , they tend to burn up points if a non resistor coil is used. high
battery voltage would be hard on the coil. a normal charging system on a
k series engine is about 14v .

On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 17:20:25 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

I can tell you why the sky is blue, but your coil problem, that's a
different matter.
If your Kohler engine is a model K, I believe they make a nice pointless
ignition kit for it, however that only eliminates the points. My guess is
that you've got a bad regulator and I've gotta believe sending high voltage
into the coil will cook it. When you get the new one, run the engine with a
voltage meter across the coil and see

That's the plan...

I have a service manual for the K series (downloadable from Kohler's
website) but this funky belt-drive starter/generator arrangement isn't
covered. Maybe it was unique to Case, I dunno.

And my buddy in the support dept at Kohler's off for a week. sigh

-=s







"Scott Willing" wrote in message
.. .
Last time I tried posting here, the msg never showed up, so this is
something of a test as well as a genuine request.

I bought an old Case garden tractor last year. My neighbor, a
farmer/logger/machinist had rebuilt the engine. This old unit has
battery ignition, i.e. coil and points, with a generator/starter.

It used to die on occasion after a stretch of especially hard work.
Let it cool off for a few hours and it would go again. But this year
one day it died for good.

After finding no spark, I measured the coil with a meter and
discovered the primary winding was open. Got a new coil (along with
points, condensor and plug) and tried the measurement with the new one
just for future reference just to make sure I knew what I was doing.
Measuring the "points" terminal to the +12 terminal I saw the primary
coil resistance, and between "points" and HT terminal, there was the
secondary coil resistance. (I believe this coil may also include a
resistor in the primary, but I don't know that for certain.)

I got it all back together, used it several times and it was running
like a dream, never better. Then the other day, again after a stretch
of particularly hard work (but certainly not the first on the new
parts) wound up close to max rpm, it died.

Lo and behold, the primary winding has gone open on the brand new
coil(!) Just bad luck to get a bum coil, coincidence that the old one
failed? The guy who supplied it is going to exchange it for me but I
gotta wonder if there's a coil-eating problem in this machine.

There's not much else I can think of to suspect except the old
mechanical voltage regulator (and no, unfortunately, I never checked
voltage while running but I surely will). But two experienced repair
guys assure me that there is no way, even if the coil was getting full
unregulated voltage, that it should fail. I'm not so sure.

Other opinions? It's a two-hour drive to pick up a replacement coil,
and I'm not keen to repeat this exercise this year if I can help it.

Would you replace the old mechanical voltage reg just on spec? Should
I be able to find a ready solid-state replacement? Should I care?

Oh, and why is the sky blue?

End of test.

-=s

On Wed, 03 Aug 2005 01:01:38 GMT, "calhoun"
wrote:


"Scott Willing" wrote in message
.. .

[original post about frying coils snipped]

I know what the problem is if it was a car. Missing or shorted ballast
resistor. I don't know if kohler uses them though.

Some folks are convinced that there are Kohler coils with integral
ballast resistors. I'm drawing blanks from the only sources I've been
able to contact thus far.

For those young'ins that don't know about old ignition systems a ballast
resistor limits the coils voltage to about 9volts. The coils are designed to
operate at this voltage. The only time the coil sees 12v is when the starter
is engaged. This allows for a hotter spark (overloads the coil) for
starting. If there is no resistor than coil will see 12v while running and
it's life will be greatly shortened.
If this is the case than don't replace coil with a stock unit. Get one that
operates on constant 12v.

I'm just trying to restore this thing to the original configuration,
whatever that is. My Kohler manuals don't show my config (belt-drive
starter/generator) and none of the illustrated systems show a ballast
resistor, either outside or inside the coil. (One particularly nice
diagram shows the inside.)

I have Case-specific manuals hung up in the mail, and my support guy
at Kohler is off this week so I'm at the mercy of the webbernet...

Thanks for your thoughts.

-=s

On Wed, 3 Aug 2005 11:34:39 -0400, wrote:

that kohler coil for that uses a built in resistor so id get the right
one , they tend to burn up points if a non resistor coil is used.

I have a new coil in my hand. What's a typical resistor value? I only
measure 4 ohms across the primary terminals, no way for me to know
whether that's just the coil or coil + resistor.

high
battery voltage would be hard on the coil. a normal charging system on a
k series engine is about 14v .

Thanks. I'd have thought a little higher, but that's the ballpark
anyway. if it's 23 at max revs I'll have a pretty good clue that
something's wacked. :-)

-=s

According to Scott Willing :
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 17:20:25 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

I can tell you why the sky is blue, but your coil problem, that's a
different matter.
If your Kohler engine is a model K, I believe they make a nice pointless
ignition kit for it, however that only eliminates the points. My guess is
that you've got a bad regulator and I've gotta believe sending high voltage
into the coil will cook it. When you get the new one, run the engine with a
voltage meter across the coil and see

I have a service manual for the K series (downloadable from Kohler's
website) but this funky belt-drive starter/generator arrangement isn't
covered. Maybe it was unique to Case, I dunno.

You're right, the K series book doesn't appear to cover the
starter/generator. I have a Case manual that has a few pages on the
starter/generator.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Scott, the generator-starter is a thing of beauty. All the old Cub Cadets
used them, they never die. I have one from 1962 works like a charm.


"Scott Willing" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 17:20:25 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

I can tell you why the sky is blue, but your coil problem, that's a
different matter.
If your Kohler engine is a model K, I believe they make a nice pointless
ignition kit for it, however that only eliminates the points. My guess is
that you've got a bad regulator and I've gotta believe sending high
voltage
into the coil will cook it. When you get the new one, run the engine with
a
voltage meter across the coil and see

That's the plan...

I have a service manual for the K series (downloadable from Kohler's
website) but this funky belt-drive starter/generator arrangement isn't
covered. Maybe it was unique to Case, I dunno.

And my buddy in the support dept at Kohler's off for a week. sigh

-=s







"Scott Willing" wrote in message
. ..
Last time I tried posting here, the msg never showed up, so this is
something of a test as well as a genuine request.

I bought an old Case garden tractor last year. My neighbor, a
farmer/logger/machinist had rebuilt the engine. This old unit has
battery ignition, i.e. coil and points, with a generator/starter.

It used to die on occasion after a stretch of especially hard work.
Let it cool off for a few hours and it would go again. But this year
one day it died for good.

After finding no spark, I measured the coil with a meter and
discovered the primary winding was open. Got a new coil (along with
points, condensor and plug) and tried the measurement with the new one
just for future reference just to make sure I knew what I was doing.
Measuring the "points" terminal to the +12 terminal I saw the primary
coil resistance, and between "points" and HT terminal, there was the
secondary coil resistance. (I believe this coil may also include a
resistor in the primary, but I don't know that for certain.)

I got it all back together, used it several times and it was running
like a dream, never better. Then the other day, again after a stretch
of particularly hard work (but certainly not the first on the new
parts) wound up close to max rpm, it died.

Lo and behold, the primary winding has gone open on the brand new
coil(!) Just bad luck to get a bum coil, coincidence that the old one
failed? The guy who supplied it is going to exchange it for me but I
gotta wonder if there's a coil-eating problem in this machine.

There's not much else I can think of to suspect except the old
mechanical voltage regulator (and no, unfortunately, I never checked
voltage while running but I surely will). But two experienced repair
guys assure me that there is no way, even if the coil was getting full
unregulated voltage, that it should fail. I'm not so sure.

Other opinions? It's a two-hour drive to pick up a replacement coil,
and I'm not keen to repeat this exercise this year if I can help it.

Would you replace the old mechanical voltage reg just on spec? Should
I be able to find a ready solid-state replacement? Should I care?

Oh, and why is the sky blue?

End of test.

-=s

According to Chris Lewis :
According to Scott Willing :
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 17:20:25 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

I can tell you why the sky is blue, but your coil problem, that's a
different matter.
If your Kohler engine is a model K, I believe they make a nice pointless
ignition kit for it, however that only eliminates the points. My guess is
that you've got a bad regulator and I've gotta believe sending high voltage
into the coil will cook it. When you get the new one, run the engine with a
voltage meter across the coil and see

I have a service manual for the K series (downloadable from Kohler's
website) but this funky belt-drive starter/generator arrangement isn't
covered. Maybe it was unique to Case, I dunno.

You're right, the K series book doesn't appear to cover the
starter/generator. I have a Case manual that has a few pages on the
starter/generator.

Belay that. The Cub Cadet manual I have has about half a page on it
talking solely about brushes. There's _another_ manual for the
starter/generator.

My manual does have, however, a few pages on the regulator, including
adjustments. But doesn't seem to give expected voltages for some reason.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On Tue, 02 Aug 2005 15:12:21 -0500, Scott Willing
wrote:

[blah blah blah two coil failures on old Case garden tractor with 14hp
Kohler K321, starter/generator, voltage regulator, points etc.]

Gentlemen,

I sincerely appreciate your efforts to help.

Although my regular guy (he'd cringe at that) at Kohler was off this
week, another fellow at Kohler got back to me in a day or two.

Here's the 411, direct from the horse's mouth:

"No, this coil does not have an internal ballast resistor. The
ignition coil/system on this engine is not designed for a ballast
resistor. As you know, automotive coils are usually used with a
ballast resistor-however, not this Kohler system."

To help me determine if the coil I had was correct (since at that
point I thought there might be coils with, and without, a ballast
resistor) I also asked what the coil windings should measure,
DC-resistance wise. He said:

"4-8 ohms across the primary terminals 8,000-12,000 ohms from the
high tension tower to either of the primary terminals"

Then he went on to caution that a mere DC resistance measurement
doesn't prove that the coil is good; for that you need to have it in
service or on a tester. I agree, but it's nice to know when the
measurement you make indicates that the coil is bad for sure.

So... I put the thing all back together and once again it's running
like a dream.

This time I stuck a meter on the charging system. It freaked out -- a
cheap digital meter I use for "unfriendly environments" which was
apparently picking up RF interference, reading wild random numbers on
any range whether or not the leads were connected to anything. Good
humour.

I fished out a good old-fashioned analog meter, and using that I
measured 14V steady as a rock throughout the operating range. I was
quite impressed frankly; I expected more of a stepped response. Helps
that the battery is in good shape I suppose.

I'd love to analyse in detail how this particular voltage regulator
works. Replacements are still available but as an electronics guy I'd
be tempted to build myself a bullet-proof solid-state replacement.

It remains a mystery why I suffered two coil failures. I'm thinking of
mounting a couple of gauges on this thing - even gaff-taping my old
analog meter to it temporarily - to keep an eye out for some kind of
intermittent problem. If I lose another coil -- well, let's just say
it's a good thing I don't have any hair left to pull out.

BTW, I've been getting parts and manuals for my old Case from:

http://store.casegardentractors.com (that's tractorS, same URL
with a singular tractor is something else.)

This site is a treasure trove operated by an old enthusiast owner.
Unlike a lot of sites that turn up when googling for Kohler or Case
parts, this one has most everything they sell individually pictured on
the site with prices for each. And - of special note for Canadians -
the guy does not charge a fortune to ship into Canada, will ship by
regular mail (a must for my rural PO box) and his prices are better to
start with, even after exchange and shipping. Probably due to low
overhead. (E.g. US$38 for a set of three mower deck blades vs CDN$29
per blade from the local dealer???)

Anyhow, enough of a plug for the site, I'll be sorry when everyone
goes there and buys up the parts I need. :-)

One of the items in the catalogue is a wiring harness. I noticed in
the photo that there is an inline fuse-holder, which I found
interesting as my machine has no fuses or other protection. I know
where I'd want to put a fuse, and interestingly there's a wire splice
on my machine in that exact location -- ahemm. One of the manuals
that's on its way to me in the mail site should tell me for sure.

As long as I'm plugging stuff, permit me to observe that Kohler really
seems to be one of those rare great American companies (this from a
Canuck no less!) that one associates with mostly bygone times. Kudos
to Kohler for friendly, timely and detailed support.

And thanks again to all those folks who joined the thread. My first
experience of this newsgroup has been overwhelmingly positive (at
least 14V).

Cheers,
-=s

On Wed, 3 Aug 2005 17:58:21 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

Scott, the generator-starter is a thing of beauty. All the old Cub Cadets
used them, they never die. I have one from 1962 works like a charm.

Indeed it seems like a simple and elegant thing.

-=s



"Scott Willing" wrote in message
news
On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 17:20:25 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

I can tell you why the sky is blue, but your coil problem, that's a
different matter.
If your Kohler engine is a model K, I believe they make a nice pointless
ignition kit for it, however that only eliminates the points. My guess is
that you've got a bad regulator and I've gotta believe sending high
voltage
into the coil will cook it. When you get the new one, run the engine with
a
voltage meter across the coil and see

That's the plan...

I have a service manual for the K series (downloadable from Kohler's
website) but this funky belt-drive starter/generator arrangement isn't
covered. Maybe it was unique to Case, I dunno.

And my buddy in the support dept at Kohler's off for a week. sigh

-=s







"Scott Willing" wrote in message
...
Last time I tried posting here, the msg never showed up, so this is
something of a test as well as a genuine request.

I bought an old Case garden tractor last year. My neighbor, a
farmer/logger/machinist had rebuilt the engine. This old unit has
battery ignition, i.e. coil and points, with a generator/starter.

It used to die on occasion after a stretch of especially hard work.
Let it cool off for a few hours and it would go again. But this year
one day it died for good.

After finding no spark, I measured the coil with a meter and
discovered the primary winding was open. Got a new coil (along with
points, condensor and plug) and tried the measurement with the new one
just for future reference just to make sure I knew what I was doing.
Measuring the "points" terminal to the +12 terminal I saw the primary
coil resistance, and between "points" and HT terminal, there was the
secondary coil resistance. (I believe this coil may also include a
resistor in the primary, but I don't know that for certain.)

I got it all back together, used it several times and it was running
like a dream, never better. Then the other day, again after a stretch
of particularly hard work (but certainly not the first on the new
parts) wound up close to max rpm, it died.

Lo and behold, the primary winding has gone open on the brand new
coil(!) Just bad luck to get a bum coil, coincidence that the old one
failed? The guy who supplied it is going to exchange it for me but I
gotta wonder if there's a coil-eating problem in this machine.

There's not much else I can think of to suspect except the old
mechanical voltage regulator (and no, unfortunately, I never checked
voltage while running but I surely will). But two experienced repair
guys assure me that there is no way, even if the coil was getting full
unregulated voltage, that it should fail. I'm not so sure.

Other opinions? It's a two-hour drive to pick up a replacement coil,
and I'm not keen to repeat this exercise this year if I can help it.

Would you replace the old mechanical voltage reg just on spec? Should
I be able to find a ready solid-state replacement? Should I care?

Oh, and why is the sky blue?

End of test.

-=s

According to Scott Willing :
I fished out a good old-fashioned analog meter, and using that I
measured 14V steady as a rock throughout the operating range. I was
quite impressed frankly; I expected more of a stepped response. Helps
that the battery is in good shape I suppose.

Yeah. A good battery will generally not vary much at all.

I'd love to analyse in detail how this particular voltage regulator
works. Replacements are still available but as an electronics guy I'd
be tempted to build myself a bullet-proof solid-state replacement.

Are you getting the tractor maintenance manuals? If not, I could probably
scan the pages from mine.

Perhaps I can figure out how it works from the manual.

I was told by a good small-engines guy: "Don't buy a replacement regulator.
If it fails, just about any generic (solid state or otherwise) regulator
will work fine, and cost MUCH less."
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On Fri, 05 Aug 2005 20:48:37 -0000, (Chris
Lewis) wrote:

According to Scott Willing :
I fished out a good old-fashioned analog meter, and using that I
measured 14V steady as a rock throughout the operating range. I was
quite impressed frankly; I expected more of a stepped response. Helps
that the battery is in good shape I suppose.

Yeah. A good battery will generally not vary much at all.

I'd love to analyse in detail how this particular voltage regulator
works. Replacements are still available but as an electronics guy I'd
be tempted to build myself a bullet-proof solid-state replacement.

Are you getting the tractor maintenance manuals? If not, I could probably
scan the pages from mine.

I've pretty much ordered the works. There are several. However I may
take you up on that.

Perhaps I can figure out how it works from the manual.

I was told by a good small-engines guy: "Don't buy a replacement regulator.
If it fails, just about any generic (solid state or otherwise) regulator
will work fine, and cost MUCH less."

I wondered about that, but then I don't know how comparable (aside
from the basic principle) a regulator for a generator, and a regulator
for an alternator are. I suppose the control mechanism is the same,
i.e. control the field current and you control the output, yeah?

I have a Home Power magazine article about setting up an old-style
alternator for charging large battery banks. It discusses controlling
field current... I'll have another look at that. If there's an
off-the-shelf solid state replacement I'd be all over it. I enjoy
doing my own design / build, but there's already a long list and not
much spare time.

I was frankly surprised at how little information on mechanical
regulators I was able to find in a net search. I'm trained in
electronics, but my only exposure to automotive / small engine
electrical has been Random, Reluctant, and only as Required.

Cheers,
-=s

On Fri, 05 Aug 2005 19:23:43 -0500, Scott Willing
wrote:

On Fri, 05 Aug 2005 20:48:37 -0000, (Chris
Lewis) wrote:

According to Scott Willing :
I fished out a good old-fashioned analog meter, and using that I
measured 14V steady as a rock throughout the operating range. I was
quite impressed frankly; I expected more of a stepped response. Helps
that the battery is in good shape I suppose.

Yeah. A good battery will generally not vary much at all.

I'd love to analyse in detail how this particular voltage regulator
works. Replacements are still available but as an electronics guy I'd
be tempted to build myself a bullet-proof solid-state replacement.

Are you getting the tractor maintenance manuals? If not, I could probably
scan the pages from mine.

I've pretty much ordered the works. There are several. However I may
take you up on that.

Perhaps I can figure out how it works from the manual.

I was told by a good small-engines guy: "Don't buy a replacement regulator.
If it fails, just about any generic (solid state or otherwise) regulator
will work fine, and cost MUCH less."

I wondered about that, but then I don't know how comparable (aside
from the basic principle) a regulator for a generator, and a regulator
for an alternator are. I suppose the control mechanism is the same,
i.e. control the field current and you control the output, yeah?

I have a Home Power magazine article about setting up an old-style
alternator for charging large battery banks. It discusses controlling
field current... I'll have another look at that. If there's an
off-the-shelf solid state replacement I'd be all over it. I enjoy
doing my own design / build, but there's already a long list and not
much spare time.

I was frankly surprised at how little information on mechanical
regulators I was able to find in a net search. I'm trained in
electronics, but my only exposure to automotive / small engine
electrical has been Random, Reluctant, and only as Required.

Cheers,
-=s
Keep in mind that a generator regulator has a reverse current relay.

On Sat, 06 Aug 2005 02:17:56 GMT, Andy Asberry
wrote:

On Fri, 05 Aug 2005 19:23:43 -0500, Scott Willing
wrote:

On Fri, 05 Aug 2005 20:48:37 -0000, (Chris
Lewis) wrote:

According to Scott Willing :
[giant snip]
Keep in mind that a generator regulator has a reverse current relay.

That being... ?

-=s

According to Scott Willing :
On Fri, 05 Aug 2005 20:48:37 -0000, (Chris
Lewis) wrote:
Are you getting the tractor maintenance manuals? If not, I could probably
scan the pages from mine.

I've pretty much ordered the works. There are several. However I may
take you up on that.

I glanced at the pages, it's all about cleaning the contacts and
setting gaps (both gaps are supposed to be .020). The regulation
voltage is supposed to be set at 14V.

Perhaps I can figure out how it works from the manual.

I was told by a good small-engines guy: "Don't buy a replacement regulator.
If it fails, just about any generic (solid state or otherwise) regulator
will work fine, and cost MUCH less."

I wondered about that, but then I don't know how comparable (aside
from the basic principle) a regulator for a generator, and a regulator
for an alternator are. I suppose the control mechanism is the same,
i.e. control the field current and you control the output, yeah?

I should think. One day I should read up on them more.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Regulator.html (This is for a jeep,
the Cub has two relays, not three).

http://www.ytmag.com/ac/messages/27304.html

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/solenoids_kohler.cfm
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 15:16:15 -0000, (Chris
Lewis) wrote:

According to Scott Willing :
On Fri, 05 Aug 2005 20:48:37 -0000, (Chris
Lewis) wrote:
Are you getting the tractor maintenance manuals? If not, I could probably
scan the pages from mine.

I've pretty much ordered the works. There are several. However I may
take you up on that.

I glanced at the pages, it's all about cleaning the contacts and
setting gaps (both gaps are supposed to be .020). The regulation
voltage is supposed to be set at 14V.

A-OK there.

Perhaps I can figure out how it works from the manual.

I was told by a good small-engines guy: "Don't buy a replacement regulator.
If it fails, just about any generic (solid state or otherwise) regulator
will work fine, and cost MUCH less."

I wondered about that, but then I don't know how comparable (aside
from the basic principle) a regulator for a generator, and a regulator
for an alternator are. I suppose the control mechanism is the same,
i.e. control the field current and you control the output, yeah?

I should think. One day I should read up on them more.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Regulator.html (This is for a jeep,
the Cub has two relays, not three).

Sweet! That's exactly the sort of treatise I've been looking for!
Thanks so much for that.

http://www.ytmag.com/ac/messages/27304.html

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/solenoids_kohler.cfm

Also interesting.

Thanks a whole swack again Chris.

Cheers,
-=s

[Randy hitt]

replying to Scott Willing, Randy hitt wrote:
Add a resister in hot wire going to coil and use any 12 volt coil and problems
are fix

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ler-18985-.htm