The nose bridge in my frames broke. I tried silver solder to reconnect the
broken ends, but the solder would not stick to the metal; it would just
roll off. Any suggestions? (yah, I suppose I could tape them and look like
a typical nerd : )

Thanks,

--
A day for firm decisions!!! Or is it?


1/31/2007 11:47:39 PM

Rocinante wrote:
The nose bridge in my frames broke. I tried silver solder to reconnect the
broken ends, but the solder would not stick to the metal; it would just
roll off. Any suggestions? (yah, I suppose I could tape them and look like
a typical nerd : )

Thanks,

Try your local jeweler. Some of them have been known to actually repair
metal frame glasses better than new. Mine does.
--
Grandpa

Rocinante wrote in
:

The nose bridge in my frames broke. I tried silver solder to reconnect
the broken ends, but the solder would not stick to the metal; it would
just roll off. Any suggestions? (yah, I suppose I could tape them and
look like a typical nerd : )

Thanks,


it's pot metal,zinc-based. there are solders made for pot metal.

Nerds today use epoxy. ;-)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 23:51:02 -0500, Rocinante
wrote:

The nose bridge in my frames broke. I tried silver solder to reconnect the
broken ends, but the solder would not stick to the metal; it would just
roll off. Any suggestions? (yah, I suppose I could tape them and look like
a typical nerd : )

Thanks,

I did a successful silver solder of my metal spec frame years ago
using an air-acetylene torch, borax flux and silver solder. The parts
to be joined have to be glowing red hot for the solder and flux to
flow. The enamel coating on the frame had to be scraped off first.
The adjoining enamel remaining on the frame was burned off by the
torch anyway but I think its still a good idea to remove the enamel
from the join surfaces anyway.

On Feb 1, 4:34 am, PaPaPeng wrote:
On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 23:51:02 -0500, Rocinante

wrote:
The nose bridge in my frames broke. I tried silver solder to reconnect the
broken ends, but the solder would not stick to the metal; it would just
roll off. Any suggestions? (yah, I suppose I could tape them and look like
a typical nerd : )

Thanks,

I did a successful silver solder of my metal spec frame years ago
using an air-acetylene torch, borax flux and silver solder. The parts
to be joined have to be glowing red hot for the solder and flux to
flow. The enamel coating on the frame had to be scraped off first.
The adjoining enamel remaining on the frame was burned off by the
torch anyway but I think its still a good idea to remove the enamel
from the join surfaces anyway.

A quick google search yielded this:

http://www.framedoctors.com/

Don't know how well it works, never tried it. I always wound up
buying new ones.

"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
...
Rocinante wrote in
:

The nose bridge in my frames broke. I tried silver solder to reconnect
the broken ends, but the solder would not stick to the metal; it would
just roll off. Any suggestions? (yah, I suppose I could tape them and
look like a typical nerd : )

Thanks,


it's pot metal,zinc-based. there are solders made for pot metal.

Nerds today use epoxy. ;-)


You're assuming his glasses are pot metal. Glass frames are made of lots of
metals, mine are Ti ear stems with steel frames. My other pair were Ti
pure, the ones before that were steel.

"Eigenvector" wrote in
:


"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
...
Rocinante wrote in
:

The nose bridge in my frames broke. I tried silver solder to
reconnect the broken ends, but the solder would not stick to the
metal; it would just roll off. Any suggestions? (yah, I suppose I
could tape them and look like a typical nerd : )

Thanks,


it's pot metal,zinc-based. there are solders made for pot metal.

Nerds today use epoxy. ;-)


You're assuming his glasses are pot metal. Glass frames are made of
lots of metals, mine are Ti ear stems with steel frames. My other
pair were Ti pure, the ones before that were steel.




do you think most glass frames are Ti? I don't.
Unless they were bought knowing they were Ti,they probably are not.
I suspect Ti frames carry a premium price,and one is well aware that they
are paying for Ti.They might even be imprinted with that info.
(mine don't;just make,model and color)

At least steel can be determined with a magnet.

since he *already tried silver solder*,he might as well try solders made
for zinc alloys,can't do any more harm,as it's too late to have a pro try
to repair them even if they are Ti.I doubt any pro would want to make
repairs on a workpiece already screwed up by the owner's repair attempt.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net