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Default golden color polyurethane


Looking back in this groups, people say that oil-based poly will
eventually turn "gold" colored (on soft pine floor and trim), but
water based poly never. Can anyone tell me how long this might take?
Weeks? Years? Decades? Any tips on speeding up the process in any way,
or faking it (i.e., put down some kind of stain first)?

I need to finish up some repair work -- I removed a chimney, so I have
now filled in a 2'x2' hole in the floor, replaced misc trim pieces,
etc., with new wood. The existing floor and trim is very golden, worn
looking, and can not all be replaced just for the sake of these few
pieces. But water-based poly on a test piece of the pine I used in my
repairs results in a beautiful clear and light finish that looks
absolutely nothing like the worn, deep golden color of all the
existing stuff.

Thanks!

-Kevin

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Default golden color polyurethane

The rich golden patina is a matter of years. Some of it may be
stain, some of it is the wood itself exposed to light, some of it
may be yellowing of the finish.

On floor repairs I use a very light application of stain in the
right color group. I do not try to get as dark as the original,
just headed the right way. You can also use tinted varnish.

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"kevin" wrote in message
ups.com...

Looking back in this groups, people say that oil-based poly will
eventually turn "gold" colored (on soft pine floor and trim),
but
water based poly never. Can anyone tell me how long this might
take?
Weeks? Years? Decades? Any tips on speeding up the process in
any way,
or faking it (i.e., put down some kind of stain first)?

I need to finish up some repair work -- I removed a chimney, so
I have
now filled in a 2'x2' hole in the floor, replaced misc trim
pieces,
etc., with new wood. The existing floor and trim is very golden,
worn
looking, and can not all be replaced just for the sake of these
few
pieces. But water-based poly on a test piece of the pine I used
in my
repairs results in a beautiful clear and light finish that looks
absolutely nothing like the worn, deep golden color of all the
existing stuff.

Thanks!

-Kevin



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Default golden color polyurethane

Visit www.homesteadfinishing.com and look for the color chart of
TransTint dyes. Often suggested to add some amber dye to water based
finishes to simulate oil based stuff.

On 30 Jan 2007 20:03:07 -0800, "kevin" wrote:


Looking back in this groups, people say that oil-based poly will
eventually turn "gold" colored (on soft pine floor and trim), but
water based poly never. Can anyone tell me how long this might take?
Weeks? Years? Decades? Any tips on speeding up the process in any way,
or faking it (i.e., put down some kind of stain first)?

I need to finish up some repair work -- I removed a chimney, so I have
now filled in a 2'x2' hole in the floor, replaced misc trim pieces,
etc., with new wood. The existing floor and trim is very golden, worn
looking, and can not all be replaced just for the sake of these few
pieces. But water-based poly on a test piece of the pine I used in my
repairs results in a beautiful clear and light finish that looks
absolutely nothing like the worn, deep golden color of all the
existing stuff.

Thanks!

-Kevin

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Default golden color polyurethane

kevin wrote:
Looking back in this groups, people say that oil-based poly will
eventually turn "gold" colored (on soft pine floor and trim), but
water based poly never. Can anyone tell me how long this might take?
Weeks? Years? Decades? Any tips on speeding up the process in any way,
or faking it (i.e., put down some kind of stain first)?

I need to finish up some repair work -- I removed a chimney, so I have
now filled in a 2'x2' hole in the floor, replaced misc trim pieces,
etc., with new wood. The existing floor and trim is very golden, worn
looking, and can not all be replaced just for the sake of these few
pieces. But water-based poly on a test piece of the pine I used in my
repairs results in a beautiful clear and light finish that looks
absolutely nothing like the worn, deep golden color of all the
existing stuff.

Thanks!

-Kevin


If you have a place to test, you might consider using acryllic artist
color with clear medium to make it transparent. There is also a
website, the company name I can't remember, that sells all of the stuff
used in compounding paints and varnishes. Acryllics would be easier if
you can match colors decently. Pine will yellow, moreso when exposed to
sun.
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