Thanks in no small part to posters on this NG, I have overcome any fear
I had of disassembling and repairing the windows in my house... got
everything in pretty good shape except one of the windows in the
kitchen. All windows are Anderson Narroline windows, most circa 1989
but the one that I had problems with was dated earlier than that, 1984 I
think? Anyway, both sashes were stuck and there was no screen on this
window, which was above the kitchen sink - one that you just might want
to open. So I forced it open and found a bottom sash rotted along the
lower edge. D'oh. I bit the bullet and ordered two new sashes from
Andersen in Low-E glass as well as a screen (the upper sash was badly
stuck, and this was the only window in the house that was not "High
Performance" or "Low-E" glass anyway.) They arrived today and installed
without a hitch, but the upper sash stuck again as soon as I put the
sash channel back in the left side of the window. I'm guessing that
either a) I need a new sash channel b) I should shave a little wood off
the frame to allow a tiny bit more clearance for the sash channel, or c)
I should lube the sash channel with something.

I'm guessing that something like a teflon spray would be appropriate? I
don't think I want to use anything greasy on wood. Will this really
help, or do you think I'm looking at options a) or b)?

Also, I think I may have created more work for myself. I ordered the
window in white exterior and unfinished interior as that's how the rest
of the windows in the house are. However, someone went back and painted
the inside of all the sashes and trim gloss white. Now that I look
closely at the windows it looks like the exterior surface is just wood
with a really hard, smooth coat of white paint on it. True? Should I
just have ordered all white windows and saved myself the trouble of
painting? Should I paint the sashes installed or removed?

thanks,

nate

(all other windows working nicely, thanks...)

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Thanks in no small part to posters on this NG, I have overcome any fear I
had of disassembling and repairing the windows in my house... got
everything in pretty good shape except one of the windows in the kitchen.
All windows are Anderson Narroline windows, most circa 1989 but the one
that I had problems with was dated earlier than that, 1984 I think?
Anyway, both sashes were stuck and there was no screen on this window,
which was above the kitchen sink - one that you just might want to open.
So I forced it open and found a bottom sash rotted along the lower edge.
D'oh. I bit the bullet and ordered two new sashes from Andersen in Low-E
glass as well as a screen (the upper sash was badly stuck, and this was
the only window in the house that was not "High Performance" or "Low-E"
glass anyway.) They arrived today and installed without a hitch, but the
upper sash stuck again as soon as I put the sash channel back in the left
side of the window. I'm guessing that either a) I need a new sash channel
b) I should shave a little wood off the frame to allow a tiny bit more
clearance for the sash channel, or c) I should lube the sash channel with
something.

I'm guessing that something like a teflon spray would be appropriate? I
don't think I want to use anything greasy on wood. Will this really help,
or do you think I'm looking at options a) or b)?

Also, I think I may have created more work for myself. I ordered the
window in white exterior and unfinished interior as that's how the rest of
the windows in the house are. However, someone went back and painted the
inside of all the sashes and trim gloss white. Now that I look closely at
the windows it looks like the exterior surface is just wood with a really
hard, smooth coat of white paint on it. True? Should I just have ordered
all white windows and saved myself the trouble of painting? Should I
paint the sashes installed or removed?

thanks,

nate


Spray silicone or candle wax (paraffin)

If both surfaces are wood the wax may be the better option.

Colbyt wrote:
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...

Thanks in no small part to posters on this NG, I have overcome any fear I
had of disassembling and repairing the windows in my house... got
everything in pretty good shape except one of the windows in the kitchen.
All windows are Anderson Narroline windows, most circa 1989 but the one
that I had problems with was dated earlier than that, 1984 I think?
Anyway, both sashes were stuck and there was no screen on this window,
which was above the kitchen sink - one that you just might want to open.
So I forced it open and found a bottom sash rotted along the lower edge.
D'oh. I bit the bullet and ordered two new sashes from Andersen in Low-E
glass as well as a screen (the upper sash was badly stuck, and this was
the only window in the house that was not "High Performance" or "Low-E"
glass anyway.) They arrived today and installed without a hitch, but the
upper sash stuck again as soon as I put the sash channel back in the left
side of the window. I'm guessing that either a) I need a new sash channel
b) I should shave a little wood off the frame to allow a tiny bit more
clearance for the sash channel, or c) I should lube the sash channel with
something.

I'm guessing that something like a teflon spray would be appropriate? I
don't think I want to use anything greasy on wood. Will this really help,
or do you think I'm looking at options a) or b)?

Also, I think I may have created more work for myself. I ordered the
window in white exterior and unfinished interior as that's how the rest of
the windows in the house are. However, someone went back and painted the
inside of all the sashes and trim gloss white. Now that I look closely at
the windows it looks like the exterior surface is just wood with a really
hard, smooth coat of white paint on it. True? Should I just have ordered
all white windows and saved myself the trouble of painting? Should I
paint the sashes installed or removed?

thanks,

nate



Spray silicone or candle wax (paraffin)

If both surfaces are wood the wax may be the better option.


The sashes are wood, but the liners (the mating part of the frame) are
vinyl.

nate


--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Colbyt spake thus:

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...

... I'm guessing that ... c) I should lube the sash channel with
something.

Spray silicone or candle wax (paraffin)

I'd go with the candle wax. Good solid lube for just about anything. I
always keep a little chunk in my toolbelt. (Great for making wood screws
so much easier to drive; better than soap, even.)


--
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.

- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
Colbyt wrote:
"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...

Thanks in no small part to posters on this NG, I have overcome any fear I
had of disassembling and repairing the windows in my house... got
everything in pretty good shape except one of the windows in the kitchen.
All windows are Anderson Narroline windows, most circa 1989 but the one
that I had problems with was dated earlier than that, 1984 I think?
Anyway, both sashes were stuck and there was no screen on this window,
which was above the kitchen sink - one that you just might want to open.
So I forced it open and found a bottom sash rotted along the lower edge.
D'oh. I bit the bullet and ordered two new sashes from Andersen in Low-E
glass as well as a screen (the upper sash was badly stuck, and this was
the only window in the house that was not "High Performance" or "Low-E"
glass anyway.) They arrived today and installed without a hitch, but the
upper sash stuck again as soon as I put the sash channel back in the left
side of the window. I'm guessing that either a) I need a new sash
channel b) I should shave a little wood off the frame to allow a tiny bit
more clearance for the sash channel, or c) I should lube the sash channel
with something.

I'm guessing that something like a teflon spray would be appropriate? I
don't think I want to use anything greasy on wood. Will this really
help, or do you think I'm looking at options a) or b)?

Also, I think I may have created more work for myself. I ordered the
window in white exterior and unfinished interior as that's how the rest
of the windows in the house are. However, someone went back and painted
the inside of all the sashes and trim gloss white. Now that I look
closely at the windows it looks like the exterior surface is just wood
with a really hard, smooth coat of white paint on it. True? Should I
just have ordered all white windows and saved myself the trouble of
painting? Should I paint the sashes installed or removed?

thanks,

nate



Spray silicone or candle wax (paraffin)

If both surfaces are wood the wax may be the better option.

The sashes are wood, but the liners (the mating part of the frame) are
vinyl.

nate


--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel


The silicone can't hurt. It is also easier to use.

Colbyt

You hear what happened to the girl who couldn't tell the difference
between vaseline and putty?

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
I'm guessing that
either a) I need a new sash channel b) I should shave a little wood
off
the frame to allow a tiny bit more clearance for the sash channel, or
c)
I should lube the sash channel with something.

I'm guessing that something like a teflon spray would be appropriate?
I
don't think I want to use anything greasy on wood. Will this really
help, or do you think I'm looking at options a) or b)?


thanks,

nate

(all other windows working nicely, thanks...)

--

Yea, all her window glass fell out!!
Muff




"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
You hear what happened to the girl who couldn't tell the difference
between vaseline and putty?

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
I'm guessing that
either a) I need a new sash channel b) I should shave a little wood
off
the frame to allow a tiny bit more clearance for the sash channel, or
c)
I should lube the sash channel with something.

I'm guessing that something like a teflon spray would be appropriate?
I
don't think I want to use anything greasy on wood. Will this really
help, or do you think I'm looking at options a) or b)?


thanks,

nate

(all other windows working nicely, thanks...)

--

Low-E glass is insufficient for most climates. I hope you spent at
least a little extra on at least the argon fill.

On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 19:02:27 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

Thanks in no small part to posters on this NG, I have overcome any fear
I had of disassembling and repairing the windows in my house... got
everything in pretty good shape except one of the windows in the
kitchen. All windows are Anderson Narroline windows, most circa 1989
but the one that I had problems with was dated earlier than that, 1984 I
think? Anyway, both sashes were stuck and there was no screen on this
window, which was above the kitchen sink - one that you just might want
to open. So I forced it open and found a bottom sash rotted along the
lower edge. D'oh. I bit the bullet and ordered two new sashes from
Andersen in Low-E glass as well as a screen (the upper sash was badly
stuck, and this was the only window in the house that was not "High
Performance" or "Low-E" glass anyway.) They arrived today and installed
without a hitch, but the upper sash stuck again as soon as I put the
sash channel back in the left side of the window. I'm guessing that
either a) I need a new sash channel b) I should shave a little wood off
the frame to allow a tiny bit more clearance for the sash channel, or c)
I should lube the sash channel with something.

I'm guessing that something like a teflon spray would be appropriate? I
don't think I want to use anything greasy on wood. Will this really
help, or do you think I'm looking at options a) or b)?

Also, I think I may have created more work for myself. I ordered the
window in white exterior and unfinished interior as that's how the rest
of the windows in the house are. However, someone went back and painted
the inside of all the sashes and trim gloss white. Now that I look
closely at the windows it looks like the exterior surface is just wood
with a really hard, smooth coat of white paint on it. True? Should I
just have ordered all white windows and saved myself the trouble of
painting? Should I paint the sashes installed or removed?

thanks,

nate

(all other windows working nicely, thanks...)

Argon fill is not a long-term solution. The argon actually sinks between
the glass panes and creates a negative area in the center madking plates
slightly closer together in the center than around the periphery. In cold
climates with high indoor himidity a circular condensation appears in the
middle of the glass pane. For me this is hard to believe, but I was told
the same story by several folks in the biz.

Experience: I just replaced 18 Anderson sashes, vintage 1990. Anderson
made changes to correct this problem, one of which, I am told, is to
eliminate the argon fill. Super-dry air-fill insulates just as well and
doesn't migrate. I also learned that the gas fill (air or argon) has
little to do with the insualation value; it is the distance between the
inner surfaces of the glass that does the job. Anderson installers have a
gage that measures this distance to check for possible sash insulation
failures.

DH - Illinois

dontrain wrote:

Argon fill is not a long-term solution. The argon actually sinks between
the glass panes and creates a negative area in the center madking plates
slightly closer together in the center than around the periphery... For
me this is hard to believe...

Does wearing your tinfoil hat make it easier? :-)

Nick