DIYbanter

DIYbanter (https://www.diybanter.com/)
-   Home Repair (https://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/)
-   -   Water heater pop off valve issue (https://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/184712-water-heater-pop-off-valve-issue.html)

Joe December 4th 06 12:45 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 
3 days ago I noticed water leaking out of the pop off valve on my three year
old hot water heater. My first thought was bad pop off valve so I replaced
it. The problem persisted. Then I thought maybe the thermostat was sticking
on and over heating the water so I bought a thermometer and check the water
temp at the closest faucet to the tank and the water was 130 deg with the
tank set on 125. I then thought I must be having water pressure spikes so I
bought a pressure tester and screwed it into the pop off valve outlet and
just left the pop off valve open. Initially there was only 75 pounds of
pressure. I went back and checked an hour later and the gauge showed the
pressure had been as high as 160 pounds. I thought ok my water pressure
regulator had bad so I replaced the regulator coming into the house and the
pressure was 60 pounds initially. I come back and hour later and the
pressure gage had gone up to 200 pounds which tells me if the gauge had not
been there the pop off valve would have again let water escape as it is
designed to pop at 150 PSI or 210 degrees. The hot water in my house is not
scalding hot by a long shot.

Where do I go from here? Why is so much pressure building up in my water
heater?

Thanks Joe




[email protected] December 4th 06 12:52 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 
do you have a anti siphon valve at the water line entrance? if so you
need a pressure tank.

with no abilty to backflow when your heater heats water it expands and
causes the valve to open.

if not you need a pressure regulator valve installed at the entrance


Joe December 4th 06 01:06 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 
I have a regulator coming into the house which I replaced today.

Why would I need an expansion tank now when there has not been one for the
last 9 years I have owned this house and it has not been a problem up till
now? What has changed?
Joe

wrote in message
ups.com...
do you have a anti siphon valve at the water line entrance? if so you
need a pressure tank.

with no abilty to backflow when your heater heats water it expands and
causes the valve to open.

if not you need a pressure regulator valve installed at the entrance




[email protected] December 4th 06 01:15 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 

Joe wrote:
I have a regulator coming into the house which I replaced today.

Why would I need an expansion tank now when there has not been one for the
last 9 years I have owned this house and it has not been a problem up till
now? What has changed?
Joe



some areas require anti siphon valves or check valves when plumbing is
worked on or homes sold.

say you have a garden hose in a swimming pool filling it.

the water goes off, suction will pull water from your pool, it might be
yuk dirty and flow to your unsuspecting neighbors.

so a check valve is now required at home sale time.

this makes the plumbing in your home a sealed system. when you hot
water tank heats water the pressure increases sometimes dramatically
and the valve opens.

a pressure tank absorbs the change in pressure


Speedy Jim December 4th 06 01:31 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 
Joe wrote:

I have a regulator coming into the house which I replaced today.

Why would I need an expansion tank now when there has not been one for the
last 9 years I have owned this house and it has not been a problem up till
now? What has changed?
Joe



Some PRV's have a "bypass" check which will allow a trickle of water
to go back to the street *if* street pressure is low enough.
But over the years, the bypass port gets clogged and no longer works.
Then the pressure skyrockets.
This is the reason that Codes require a thermal expansion tank
in the presence of a PRV, whether or not it has a bypass.

So, get thee to yon BigBox and buy an expansion tank.

Jim



wrote in message
ups.com...

do you have a anti siphon valve at the water line entrance? if so you
need a pressure tank.

with no abilty to backflow when your heater heats water it expands and
causes the valve to open.

if not you need a pressure regulator valve installed at the entrance





Frank December 4th 06 01:32 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 

Joe wrote:
3 days ago I noticed water leaking out of the pop off valve on my three year
old hot water heater. My first thought was bad pop off valve so I replaced
it. The problem persisted. Then I thought maybe the thermostat was sticking
on and over heating the water so I bought a thermometer and check the water
temp at the closest faucet to the tank and the water was 130 deg with the
tank set on 125. I then thought I must be having water pressure spikes so I
bought a pressure tester and screwed it into the pop off valve outlet and
just left the pop off valve open. Initially there was only 75 pounds of
pressure. I went back and checked an hour later and the gauge showed the
pressure had been as high as 160 pounds. I thought ok my water pressure
regulator had bad so I replaced the regulator coming into the house and the
pressure was 60 pounds initially. I come back and hour later and the
pressure gage had gone up to 200 pounds which tells me if the gauge had not
been there the pop off valve would have again let water escape as it is
designed to pop at 150 PSI or 210 degrees. The hot water in my house is not
scalding hot by a long shot.

Where do I go from here? Why is so much pressure building up in my water
heater?

Thanks Joe


Mine has been acting up too. Pressure on hot water expansion makes
sense. No pressure spikes on my system as I am on a well. All I did
was place a small plastic bucket under pressure drain pipe. It's been
mostly dry for several months since I first noted and water heater is
out of sight in furnace room.

Frank


Joe December 4th 06 02:49 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 
Ok I grasp what the pressure tank does and it makes perfect sense. I can see
how this would solve my problem. I also understand why codes would have
check valves. I do not know if my house has one or not. What I do not
understand is why everything has worked just fine for 9 years and now all of
the sudden I am going to need an expansion tank. My HWH sits right by the
garage entrance to my house and the drain dumps water on my garage floor if
it dumps water. I walk right by this every time I come in my house so I
would have noticed if this had happened before but it hasn't. So why has
thing work just fine up till now without an expansion tank?
Joe
wrote in message
ups.com...

Joe wrote:
I have a regulator coming into the house which I replaced today.

Why would I need an expansion tank now when there has not been one for
the
last 9 years I have owned this house and it has not been a problem up
till
now? What has changed?
Joe



some areas require anti siphon valves or check valves when plumbing is
worked on or homes sold.

say you have a garden hose in a swimming pool filling it.

the water goes off, suction will pull water from your pool, it might be
yuk dirty and flow to your unsuspecting neighbors.

so a check valve is now required at home sale time.

this makes the plumbing in your home a sealed system. when you hot
water tank heats water the pressure increases sometimes dramatically
and the valve opens.

a pressure tank absorbs the change in pressure




HarryS December 4th 06 03:58 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
3 days ago I noticed water leaking out of the pop off valve on my three
year old hot water heater. My first thought was bad pop off valve so I
replaced it. The problem persisted. Then I thought maybe the thermostat was
sticking on and over heating the water so I bought a thermometer and check
the water temp at the closest faucet to the tank and the water was 130 deg
with the tank set on 125. I then thought I must be having water pressure
spikes so I bought a pressure tester and screwed it into the pop off valve
outlet and just left the pop off valve open. Initially there was only 75
pounds of pressure. I went back and checked an hour later and the gauge
showed the pressure had been as high as 160 pounds. I thought ok my water
pressure regulator had bad so I replaced the regulator coming into the
house and the pressure was 60 pounds initially. I come back and hour later
and the pressure gage had gone up to 200 pounds which tells me if the gauge
had not been there the pop off valve would have again let water escape as
it is designed to pop at 150 PSI or 210 degrees. The hot water in my house
is not scalding hot by a long shot.

Where do I go from here? Why is so much pressure building up in my water
heater?

Thanks Joe


I had the same thing happen. Everything worked fine for years until one day
water started to leak intermittently from the relief valve. I put on a new
relief valve but that didn't stop it. I lowered the house pressure at the
regulator; still no change. So, I installed a pressure tank and the problem
went away.

I asked myself the same question you're asking. Why, after all these years,
did this problem crop up? I could only come up with two possibilities. 1.
My pressure regulator had a bypass valve (orifice) that had plugged. 2.
The water company had installed a backflow preventor at the meter (or
perhaps changed the meter to a type that has a backflow preventor built in).

I didn't pursue the real reason, but I'm betting it was No. 1.

Harry



Don Young December 4th 06 04:36 AM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 

"HarryS" wrote in message
news:i9Mch.168881$aJ.146294@attbi_s21...

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
3 days ago I noticed water leaking out of the pop off valve on my three
year old hot water heater. My first thought was bad pop off valve so I
replaced it. The problem persisted. Then I thought maybe the thermostat
was sticking on and over heating the water so I bought a thermometer and
check the water temp at the closest faucet to the tank and the water was
130 deg with the tank set on 125. I then thought I must be having water
pressure spikes so I bought a pressure tester and screwed it into the pop
off valve outlet and just left the pop off valve open. Initially there was
only 75 pounds of pressure. I went back and checked an hour later and the
gauge showed the pressure had been as high as 160 pounds. I thought ok my
water pressure regulator had bad so I replaced the regulator coming into
the house and the pressure was 60 pounds initially. I come back and hour
later and the pressure gage had gone up to 200 pounds which tells me if
the gauge had not been there the pop off valve would have again let water
escape as it is designed to pop at 150 PSI or 210 degrees. The hot water
in my house is not scalding hot by a long shot.

Where do I go from here? Why is so much pressure building up in my water
heater?

Thanks Joe


I had the same thing happen. Everything worked fine for years until one
day water started to leak intermittently from the relief valve. I put on
a new relief valve but that didn't stop it. I lowered the house pressure
at the regulator; still no change. So, I installed a pressure tank and
the problem went away.

I asked myself the same question you're asking. Why, after all these
years, did this problem crop up? I could only come up with two
possibilities. 1. My pressure regulator had a bypass valve (orifice) that
had plugged. 2. The water company had installed a backflow preventor at
the meter (or perhaps changed the meter to a type that has a backflow
preventor built in).

I didn't pursue the real reason, but I'm betting it was No. 1.

Harry


A third possibility is that the mains water pressure has been increased to
above the valves relief setting. This would prevent the bypass orfice from
being effective. If the main is 150PSI and it is regulated down to 60PSI,
the bypass will work only when the house pressure goes above 150.

In any case, a working expansion tank will solve the problem. A waterlogged
expansion tank is no longer effective and needs to be drained and/or
re-pressurized.

Don Young



Joe December 4th 06 06:55 AM

Thanks to all and Follow up Question
 
Since the an expansion tank will solve my problem I am going to get one
tomorrow. I am thinking just a small one or two gallon tank should cover it.
Would I be correct to install it in the cold water line going into the water
heater or does it mater?
Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
3 days ago I noticed water leaking out of the pop off valve on my three
year old hot water heater. My first thought was bad pop off valve so I
replaced it. The problem persisted. Then I thought maybe the thermostat was
sticking on and over heating the water so I bought a thermometer and check
the water temp at the closest faucet to the tank and the water was 130 deg
with the tank set on 125. I then thought I must be having water pressure
spikes so I bought a pressure tester and screwed it into the pop off valve
outlet and just left the pop off valve open. Initially there was only 75
pounds of pressure. I went back and checked an hour later and the gauge
showed the pressure had been as high as 160 pounds. I thought ok my water
pressure regulator had bad so I replaced the regulator coming into the
house and the pressure was 60 pounds initially. I come back and hour later
and the pressure gage had gone up to 200 pounds which tells me if the gauge
had not been there the pop off valve would have again let water escape as
it is designed to pop at 150 PSI or 210 degrees. The hot water in my house
is not scalding hot by a long shot.

Where do I go from here? Why is so much pressure building up in my water
heater?

Thanks Joe






HarryS December 4th 06 02:24 PM

Water heater pop off valve issue
 

"Don Young" wrote in message
...

"HarryS" wrote in message
news:i9Mch.168881$aJ.146294@attbi_s21...

"Joe" wrote in message
.. .
3 days ago I noticed water leaking out of the pop off valve on my three
year old hot water heater. My first thought was bad pop off valve so I
replaced it. The problem persisted. Then I thought maybe the thermostat
was sticking on and over heating the water so I bought a thermometer and
check the water temp at the closest faucet to the tank and the water was
130 deg with the tank set on 125. I then thought I must be having water
pressure spikes so I bought a pressure tester and screwed it into the pop
off valve outlet and just left the pop off valve open. Initially there
was only 75 pounds of pressure. I went back and checked an hour later and
the gauge showed the pressure had been as high as 160 pounds. I thought
ok my water pressure regulator had bad so I replaced the regulator coming
into the house and the pressure was 60 pounds initially. I come back and
hour later and the pressure gage had gone up to 200 pounds which tells me
if the gauge had not been there the pop off valve would have again let
water escape as it is designed to pop at 150 PSI or 210 degrees. The hot
water in my house is not scalding hot by a long shot.

Where do I go from here? Why is so much pressure building up in my water
heater?

Thanks Joe


I had the same thing happen. Everything worked fine for years until one
day water started to leak intermittently from the relief valve. I put on
a new relief valve but that didn't stop it. I lowered the house pressure
at the regulator; still no change. So, I installed a pressure tank and
the problem went away.

I asked myself the same question you're asking. Why, after all these
years, did this problem crop up? I could only come up with two
possibilities. 1. My pressure regulator had a bypass valve (orifice)
that had plugged. 2. The water company had installed a backflow
preventor at the meter (or perhaps changed the meter to a type that has a
backflow preventor built in).

I didn't pursue the real reason, but I'm betting it was No. 1.

Harry


A third possibility is that the mains water pressure has been increased to
above the valves relief setting. This would prevent the bypass orfice from
being effective. If the main is 150PSI and it is regulated down to 60PSI,
the bypass will work only when the house pressure goes above 150.

In any case, a working expansion tank will solve the problem. A
waterlogged expansion tank is no longer effective and needs to be drained
and/or re-pressurized.

Don Young


You're correct. In my case, I knew the pressure coming to the house wasn't
the culprit. My outside hydrants get mains pressure and, while higher than
the regulated pressure, it's considerably lower than the pop-off pressure of
the relief valve. It's nice for me to have maximum pressure outside,
however, I wouldn't want 150 psi on my hoses.

Another thing to consider is that many homes have anti-hammer devices
installed throughout the house. These can offer some of the same protection
as a pressure tank. However, if they are the type that can waterlog, you
can lose their protective effect over time. The best way to check this out
is to completely drain down the system, refill, then watch to see what
happens to the relief valve.

It's also a good idea to have a pressure gauge installed so that you can
actually see what is happening with the water pressure in the home.

Harry



Speedy Jim December 4th 06 03:20 PM

Thanks to all and Follow up Question
 
Joe wrote:

Since the an expansion tank will solve my problem I am going to get one
tomorrow. I am thinking just a small one or two gallon tank should cover it.
Would I be correct to install it in the cold water line going into the water
heater or does it mater?
Joe


Install on the Cold inlet, after the shutoff valve for the heater.




"Joe" wrote in message
.. .

3 days ago I noticed water leaking out of the pop off valve on my three
year old hot water heater. My first thought was bad pop off valve so I
replaced it. The problem persisted. Then I thought maybe the thermostat was
sticking on and over heating the water so I bought a thermometer and check
the water temp at the closest faucet to the tank and the water was 130 deg
with the tank set on 125. I then thought I must be having water pressure
spikes so I bought a pressure tester and screwed it into the pop off valve
outlet and just left the pop off valve open. Initially there was only 75
pounds of pressure. I went back and checked an hour later and the gauge
showed the pressure had been as high as 160 pounds. I thought ok my water
pressure regulator had bad so I replaced the regulator coming into the
house and the pressure was 60 pounds initially. I come back and hour later
and the pressure gage had gone up to 200 pounds which tells me if the gauge
had not been there the pop off valve would have again let water escape as
it is designed to pop at 150 PSI or 210 degrees. The hot water in my house
is not scalding hot by a long shot.

Where do I go from here? Why is so much pressure building up in my water
heater?

Thanks Joe







Goedjn December 4th 06 07:32 PM

Thanks to all and Follow up Question
 
On Sun, 3 Dec 2006 23:55:49 -0600, "Joe" wrote:

Since the an expansion tank will solve my problem I am going to get one
tomorrow. I am thinking just a small one or two gallon tank should cover it.
Would I be correct to install it in the cold water line going into the water
heater or does it mater?
Joe


That will work. Just make sure that there's nothing else
(like a check valve..) between the expansion tank and the
heater.



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 03:20 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter