Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence? New-to-us
dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister thinks we
should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom of the
fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as along the
top. I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem, just slow
the progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk
12" or so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any
gap between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging
idea, what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard. Grr...

-Karen-

add invisible fence around permiter, dog not wanting to get shocked
will stay away from fence

I have a dog like that her name is puddle.

She a small poodle would jump a 4 foot wire mesh fence, leak out doors,
run all thru neighborhood, chase cars, barking for no reason, got hit
by car... we made new friends police

Finally solved it all by getting puddle a friend, susie.

companion solved all the troubles our dog was bored..........

might be easier to add a friend on a trial basis and see if that fixes
things.

your local animal shelter would likely love a foster parent, and you
can save a life and perhaps get your dog a friend while ending the
behavior problem.

no long term cmmitment, its worth a try and is the cheapest solution.

"dkhedmo" wrote in message
ink.net...
Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence? New-to-us
dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister thinks we
should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom of the
fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as along the top.
I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem, just slow the
progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk 12" or
so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any gap
between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging idea,
what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

So Barfie is digging his way out? Gee, he/she is surely a candidate for
neutering or spaying. There are all kinds of solutions, but I'd look
closely at the dog before turning your property into a stalag.

fence guy can run cable all along bottom of fence, but doggie can still
dig under fence

So Barfie is digging his way out? Gee, he/she is surely a candidate for
neutering or spaying. There are all kinds of solutions, but I'd look
closely at the dog before turning your property into a stalag.

our dog puddle was fixed but stiill got bored and ran the
neighborhood.......

wrote in message
ups.com...
add invisible fence around permiter, dog not wanting to get shocked
will stay away from fence

I have a dog like that her name is puddle.

She a small poodle would jump a 4 foot wire mesh fence, leak out doors,
run all thru neighborhood, chase cars, barking for no reason, got hit
by car... we made new friends police

Finally solved it all by getting puddle a friend, susie.

companion solved all the troubles our dog was bored..........

might be easier to add a friend on a trial basis and see if that fixes
things.

your local animal shelter would likely love a foster parent, and you
can save a life and perhaps get your dog a friend while ending the
behavior problem.

no long term cmmitment, its worth a try and is the cheapest solution.

I'll second this- the dog is probably just bored and lonely. Have you tried
more 'inside time' with the rest of the pack? They are pack animals. They
see their humans as their pack. If the humans don't give them any face time,
they feel rejected, and try to move on.

aem sends....

dkhedmo wrote:
Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence? New-to-us
dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister thinks we
should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom of the
fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as along the
top. I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem, just slow
the progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk
12" or so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any
gap between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging
idea, what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard. Grr...

-Karen-

I have a white Golden Retriever/German Sheperd mix that does that. One
day, I saw her digging so fast that about all you could see was a
steady stream of dirt flying through the air with an occasional glimpse
of white fur. I just stood there and watched her for a minute waiting
to see if she would realize I was watching.

Finally, I yelled at her and she looked up at me and I looked at her
and she looked at me. For a moment we just stood there looking at each
other. Then finally, she took her nose and shoved two small scoups of
dirt back in the hole and casually walked off as though nothing had
happened.

I filled the hole with some dirt and big rocks and that's been the
routine ever since. I think I have finally won the battle of wills now
since she doesn't dig under the fence much anymore. That's one small
step for man and one giant leap for mankind, I think. Now she digs in
any bare spots she can find in the middle of the backyard and I
dutifully fill them in whenever she does, but the problem with digging
under the fence seems to have been solved.

Of course all here is just recommendations without guarantee but I did
do the following for a full size German Shepard.

I dug a very shallow trench maybe 2 to 3 inches deep about 10 inches
wide from the fence back into the yard.

Then I affixed hog wire fence to the bottom of the existing fence ran it
down to the ground and bent it back toward me to lay flat in the bottom
of the shallow trench I made.

Then I covered the trench with the sod I took out, kept it watered so it
would grow.

The dog tried to dig in three or four spots and gave up. Never tried to
dig again other than a hole right through the solid core door. (An
intruder got into the house and she was not going to have it.) Ripped
the pocket right off the guy with some underwear. Nice thing about it,
it was the pocket with his wallet. Very easy catch.

dkhedmo wrote:
Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence? New-to-us
dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister thinks we
should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom of the
fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as along the
top. I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem, just slow
the progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk
12" or so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any
gap between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging
idea, what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard.
Grr...

-Karen-

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard. Grr...

-Karen-

I built a dog run on the side of my garage and had the same problem. I
solved it by putting a section of chainlink fence on the ground and
covering it with a couple of inches of pea gravel. Not only did it
stop her from digging it also keeps her from getting muddy. I rinse it
down with the hose every once in a while and it works great. My dog run
is 6' wide and goes the entire length of the garage with a dog door
going into a pen inside the garage. Not sure if this helps you, but
this is how I solved a similar problem.

dkhedmo wrote:
Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence?

Google says bury chicken wire to a depth of 12" below the fence.

Saw a similar one done with some old fencing.
They laid it along the ground, secured it to the bottom of the
installed fence, then watered down the soil and walked on it
to push it down into the soil. That part didn't work as well
as they would have liked, so they let one of the tree cutting
crews dump their chewed-up wood stuff in the back yard.
Took a day to spread it out. Idea was to keep the fence
laying on the ground from being caught by the lawn mower.

After trying to dig near the fence, that dog gave it up.
Also kept there from being such a rut along the fence.
But I do think you could encourage to dog to stay home
with a friend or more house time.

wrote:
Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard. Grr...

-Karen-

I built a dog run on the side of my garage and had the same problem. I
solved it by putting a section of chainlink fence on the ground and
covering it with a couple of inches of pea gravel. Not only did it
stop her from digging it also keeps her from getting muddy. I rinse it
down with the hose every once in a while and it works great. My dog run
is 6' wide and goes the entire length of the garage with a dog door
going into a pen inside the garage. Not sure if this helps you, but
this is how I solved a similar problem.

dkhedmo wrote:
Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence? New-to-us
dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister thinks we
should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom of the
fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as along the
top. I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem, just slow
the progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk
12" or so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any
gap between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging
idea, what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard. Grr...

Firstly, I agree that you might just pay more attention to the dog.
Rather than just turning him out you should take him for a nice walk
around the neighborhood. I would be good for both of you. After he
eliminates then he can come into the house with you. Dogs are the most
social of all animals and should not be just left alone for extended
periods. I like the suggestion of adopting a playmate for your local
shelter.

One fix that hasn't been mentioned is concrete blocks around the
bottom of the fence. It's not a great idea but it's quick and
effective. Another fix is to place one strand of barbed wire at or
near ground level this may have been mentioned. The best suggestions
seem to be to bury wire in the ground.

On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 14:59:11 -0800, wrote:

On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 22:34:34 GMT, dkhedmo wrote:

Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence? New-to-us
dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister thinks we
should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom of the
fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as along the
top. I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem, just slow
the progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk
12" or so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any
gap between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging
idea, what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard. Grr...

Actually if you secure a length of barbed wire on the ground or just below
loosely attaching it to the fence every 3 feet so it sort of loops into your
yard. The dog will rip his paws when he tries to dig. He will stop unless he's
really stupid.

I have never known a dog that wasnt really stupid.

I've also been told a rich dressing of garden lime along the fence will work.
Again a really dumb dog will dig through lime like it isn't there.



There are only 3 real solutions.
1. Pour concrete in the whole fenced in area.
2. Cover all the ground with heavy steel sheets inside fence.
3. Shoot the dog.

I'd do #3 myself !!!!

Mans best friend is any animal that is NOT a dog !

dkhedmo wrote:
Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence? New-to-us
dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister thinks we
should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom of the
fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as along the
top. I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem, just slow
the progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk
12" or so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any
gap between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging
idea, what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard.
Grr...

-Karen-

Might try burying a length of hardware cloth (mesh screening stuff)
along the fence. Doggie might get down to it and give up. A hooked
stake can be driven down, holding bottom of chainlink fencing and
through the hardware cloth. Hardware cloth could be laid on top of
ground to try it out. If the dog persists or goes around it, I would
seriously consider trading him in. Animals that damage the home aren't
pets, IMO.

Our dogs tunnel near the fence because my neighbor has dogs and they
want to talk to each other. :-)

I haven't done anything yet, but for me, barbed wire it out of the
question. I've been thinking about laying some sort of bricks or
railroad ties along the side of the fence. It seems like if I do that
in certain areas, they just relocated and dig elsewhere. So, I might
just do it all along the fence and see what happens...

dkhedmo wrote:
Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence?
New-to-us dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister
thinks
we should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom
of the fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as
along the top. I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem,
just
slow the progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk
12" or so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any
gap between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging
idea, what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one
of those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in"
yard. Grr...

Have the dog de-clawed. He can't dig with stubs.

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their precious furniture
at the expense of the cat's primary defensive and offensive weapon.

Dogs don't use their claws/nails for anything except digging. No harm there.

Norminn wrote:
Might try burying a length of hardware cloth (mesh screening stuff)
along the fence. Doggie might get down to it and give up. A hooked
stake can be driven down, holding bottom of chainlink fencing and
through the hardware cloth. Hardware cloth could be laid on top of
ground to try it out. If the dog persists or goes around it, I would
seriously consider trading him in.

Animals that damage the home
aren't pets, IMO.

Goldfish are pets. Dogs and cats are members of the family.

You wouldn't "trade-in" a toddler who left teeth-marks on the coffee table.

Damage to property is something you have to accept from a member of the
family.

Have the dog de-clawed. He can't dig with stubs.

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their precious furniture
at the expense of the cat's primary defensive and offensive weapon.

Dogs don't use their claws/nails for anything except digging. No harm there.

cruel is all i can say, you ever see what a animal goes thru after
being declawed?

wrote:
Have the dog de-clawed. He can't dig with stubs.

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their precious furniture
at the expense of the cat's primary defensive and offensive weapon.

Dogs don't use their claws/nails for anything except digging. No harm there.

cruel is all i can say, you ever see what a animal goes thru after
being declawed?

Agree, don't get the dog declawed.

I have a golden retriever who tried the same thing.

I initially buried some chickenwire, that didn't work he just tore it
up.

A couple of inches of quickcrete under a layer of dirt directly under
the fence solved the issue.

In article .com,
says...


Have the dog de-clawed. He can't dig with stubs.

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their precious furniture
at the expense of the cat's primary defensive and offensive weapon.

Bull****. A cat's primary weapon is it's rear claws. The fronts
are merely a warning of things to come.

Dogs don't use their claws/nails for anything except digging. No harm there.

cruel is all i can say, you ever see what a animal goes thru after
being declawed?

Again, bull****. Our cats barely knew they were declawed. It was
dune at the same time as neutering. By the time the anesthetic
fully wore off they were running all over the house. No harm no
foul. If the cat is in serious pain after declawing you took them
to a butcher.

--
Keith

On Fri, 24 Nov 2006 22:34:34 GMT, dkhedmo
wrote:

Any ideas to secure the bottom edges of the chain link fence? New-to-us
dog tunneled under the brand new fence and bolted. The mister thinks we
should have the fence guy come back and secure pipe at the bottom of the
fence from post to post, clipping the fence to the pipe as along the
top. I'm not convinced this will solve the tunneling problem, just slow
the progress. I'm thinking some kind of metal edging that can be sunk
12" or so below ground, with a few inches remaining above to cover any
gap between ground and fence. If we were to go with this metal edging
idea, what kind of metal, and from whom do I procure it?

Any other ideas? For the time being, dog goes on a 40' tether on one of
those screw in stakes, just to run around the $1200 "fenced in" yard. Grr...

-Karen-

The same way prisoners a kept inside the fence. A cement
footer/border with steel straps or stakes into the cement and ground.

See bottom of fence here (one sample)

http://www.dreamstime.com/prisonexer...d.-image194132

--
Oren

"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens constantly."

HeyBub wrote:

Norminn wrote:

Might try burying a length of hardware cloth (mesh screening stuff)
along the fence. Doggie might get down to it and give up. A hooked
stake can be driven down, holding bottom of chainlink fencing and
through the hardware cloth. Hardware cloth could be laid on top of
ground to try it out. If the dog persists or goes around it, I would
seriously consider trading him in.


Animals that damage the home
aren't pets, IMO.


Goldfish are pets. Dogs and cats are members of the family.

You wouldn't "trade-in" a toddler who left teeth-marks on the coffee table.

Damage to property is something you have to accept from a member of the
family.


I like to garden, love to work in the yard. After all of the time and
expense of getting a yard looking nice, I wouldn't want anyone or
anything to ruin it. I'm not fond of huge animals kept in environs not
suited to them, and think pit bulls and rottweilers should be outlawed.
Too many people who keep pets either for "protection" or an ego trip,
and the animal ends up killing somebody because it isn't properly cared
for or confined. Have a neighbor with a rottweiler/mastiff which has
been cited for attacking one animal, since injured another, and the
moronic owner cannot control it and doesn't bother to use a muzzle any
longer. Another neighbor brought his pit bull over to introduce it to a
second neighbor's pet and the pit ended up killing the other dog. Folks
forget that dogs aren't that far removed from wild animals and still
have animal instincts. Big darn difference between pets and family.

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their
precious furniture at the expense of the cat's primary
defensive and offensive weapon.

Bull****. A cat's primary weapon is it's rear claws. The fronts
are merely a warning of things to come.

Cats without fronts have difficulty running away from trouble.
They want to climb but can't so they get caught and beaten up a
lot.

It's a barbaric practice. Turning a fine animal into a powder puff is
an awful thing to do.

krw wrote:
In article .com,
says...


Have the dog de-clawed. He can't dig with stubs.

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their precious
furniture at the expense of the cat's primary defensive and
offensive weapon.

Bull****. A cat's primary weapon is it's rear claws. The fronts
are merely a warning of things to come.

Dogs don't use their claws/nails for anything except digging. No
harm there.

cruel is all i can say, you ever see what a animal goes thru after
being declawed?

Again, bull****. Our cats barely knew they were declawed. It was
dune at the same time as neutering. By the time the anesthetic
fully wore off they were running all over the house. No harm no
foul. If the cat is in serious pain after declawing you took them
to a butcher.

I never said anything about pain. Let me repeat. De-clawing a cat robs it of
its primary offensive and defensive weapon. It cannot navigate at speed
without claws (do you wonder why the Cheeta is the only cat with
non-retractable claws), it cannot climb, it cannot stand and fight while
maintaining the ability to retreat.

Those who de-claw cats are evil and should be shunned by other species,
including humans. They are only one step above the scum that forms atop a
septic system in likeability, but even that is far, far higher than vets who
actually perform the procedure.

In article . net,
says...
HeyBub wrote:

Norminn wrote:

Might try burying a length of hardware cloth (mesh screening stuff)
along the fence. Doggie might get down to it and give up. A hooked
stake can be driven down, holding bottom of chainlink fencing and
through the hardware cloth. Hardware cloth could be laid on top of
ground to try it out. If the dog persists or goes around it, I would
seriously consider trading him in.


Animals that damage the home
aren't pets, IMO.


Goldfish are pets. Dogs and cats are members of the family.

You wouldn't "trade-in" a toddler who left teeth-marks on the coffee table.

Damage to property is something you have to accept from a member of the
family.


I like to garden, love to work in the yard. After all of the time and
expense of getting a yard looking nice, I wouldn't want anyone or
anything to ruin it. I'm not fond of huge animals kept in environs not
suited to them, and think pit bulls and rottweilers should be outlawed.

Bull****. Dogs do as their owners do. A nasty dog was, one way or
another, taught to be nasty. It's the people who are at fault.

Too many people who keep pets either for "protection" or an ego trip,
and the animal ends up killing somebody because it isn't properly cared
for or confined. Have a neighbor with a rottweiler/mastiff which has
been cited for attacking one animal, since injured another, and the
moronic owner cannot control it and doesn't bother to use a muzzle any
longer. Another neighbor brought his pit bull over to introduce it to a
second neighbor's pet and the pit ended up killing the other dog. Folks
forget that dogs aren't that far removed from wild animals and still
have animal instincts. Big darn difference between pets and family.

Nonsense! Dogs were domesticated something like a million years
ago. The resemble nothing of their wild cousins. Dogs *are* a
part of the family, though also a possession.

I bet when you were a kid a dog bit you, after you kicked it.

--
Keith

In article ,
says...
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 20:04:41 GMT, Bert Byfield wrote:

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their
precious furniture at the expense of the cat's primary
defensive and offensive weapon.

Bull****. A cat's primary weapon is it's rear claws. The fronts
are merely a warning of things to come.

Cats without fronts have difficulty running away from trouble.
They want to climb but can't so they get caught and beaten up a
lot.

It's a barbaric practice. Turning a fine animal into a powder puff is
an awful thing to do.

Cats without front claws become 'chew toys' for the dogs in the neighborhood.

Hogwash! I've seen a cat rip a dog five times its size to shreds
using only the back claws. A friend saw a cat take a fox, no front
claws used in the disembowelment. Cats climb using their back
claws and are perfectly able to climb with only backs.

If they are indoor cats it's even worse. When they get out an indoor cat's
instinct when threatened is to climb high and howl for rescue. A declawed cat
can't climb well so they run and they keep running and are often never seen
again.

Our cats have never been outside. They don't have a real interest
in the outside, other than as a giant TV set.

They are also subject to abuse from children and sadistic adults.

Well, there you go. Eliminate the sadists.

In article ,
says...
People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their
precious furniture at the expense of the cat's primary
defensive and offensive weapon.

Bull****. A cat's primary weapon is it's rear claws. The fronts
are merely a warning of things to come.

Cats without fronts have difficulty running away from trouble.
They want to climb but can't so they get caught and beaten up a
lot.

It's a barbaric practice. Turning a fine animal into a powder puff is
an awful thing to do.

It is nothing of the kind. What a maroon!

--
Keith

In article ,
says...
krw wrote:
In article .com,
says...


Have the dog de-clawed. He can't dig with stubs.

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their precious
furniture at the expense of the cat's primary defensive and
offensive weapon.

Bull****. A cat's primary weapon is it's rear claws. The fronts
are merely a warning of things to come.

Dogs don't use their claws/nails for anything except digging. No
harm there.

cruel is all i can say, you ever see what a animal goes thru after
being declawed?

Again, bull****. Our cats barely knew they were declawed. It was
dune at the same time as neutering. By the time the anesthetic
fully wore off they were running all over the house. No harm no
foul. If the cat is in serious pain after declawing you took them
to a butcher.

I never said anything about pain. Let me repeat. De-clawing a cat robs it of
its primary offensive and defensive weapon. It cannot navigate at speed
without claws (do you wonder why the Cheeta is the only cat with
non-retractable claws), it cannot climb, it cannot stand and fight while
maintaining the ability to retreat.

You're simply wrong. A cat's primary offensive and defensive
weapon is the *BACK* claws. They are far more powerful than the
fronts (no power in them at all). It takes power to run, climb and
fight. The fronts (and spitting/showing of the teeth) are merely a
warning to offenders.

Those who de-claw cats are evil and should be shunned by other species,
including humans. They are only one step above the scum that forms atop a
septic system in likeability, but even that is far, far higher than vets who
actually perform the procedure.

You are a true idiot.

--
Keith

krw wrote:


Nonsense! Dogs were domesticated something like a million years
ago. The resemble nothing of their wild cousins. Dogs *are* a
part of the family, though also a possession.


Nonsense! go read about the traits of a pit bull. "tendency to attack
other dogs" is mentioned and that is a very primitive trait.


I bet when you were a kid a dog bit you, after you kicked it.

In article ,
lid says...
krw wrote:


Nonsense! Dogs were domesticated something like a million years
ago. The resemble nothing of their wild cousins. Dogs *are* a
part of the family, though also a possession.


Nonsense! go read about the traits of a pit bull. "tendency to attack
other dogs" is mentioned and that is a very primitive trait.

Easily trained to be a pussy cat.

--
Keith

In article ,
says...
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 16:50:33 -0500, krw wrote:

In article ,
says...
People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their
precious furniture at the expense of the cat's primary
defensive and offensive weapon.

Bull****. A cat's primary weapon is it's rear claws. The fronts
are merely a warning of things to come.

Cats without fronts have difficulty running away from trouble.
They want to climb but can't so they get caught and beaten up a
lot.

It's a barbaric practice. Turning a fine animal into a powder puff is
an awful thing to do.

It is nothing of the kind. What a maroon!

People who value their furniture over their pets should not be allowed to own
animals. PERIOD!

People who have children as stupid as you should never have been
allowed to reproduce.

--

Keith

In article ,
says...
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 16:56:38 -0500, krw wrote:

In article ,
says...
krw wrote:
In article .com,
says...


Have the dog de-clawed. He can't dig with stubs.

People do that to cats all the time thereby saving their precious
furniture at the expense of the cat's primary defensive and
offensive weapon.

Bull****. A cat's primary weapon is it's rear claws. The fronts
are merely a warning of things to come.

Dogs don't use their claws/nails for anything except digging. No
harm there.

cruel is all i can say, you ever see what a animal goes thru after
being declawed?

Again, bull****. Our cats barely knew they were declawed. It was
dune at the same time as neutering. By the time the anesthetic
fully wore off they were running all over the house. No harm no
foul. If the cat is in serious pain after declawing you took them
to a butcher.

I never said anything about pain. Let me repeat. De-clawing a cat robs it of
its primary offensive and defensive weapon. It cannot navigate at speed
without claws (do you wonder why the Cheeta is the only cat with
non-retractable claws), it cannot climb, it cannot stand and fight while
maintaining the ability to retreat.

You're simply wrong. A cat's primary offensive and defensive
weapon is the *BACK* claws. They are far more powerful than the
fronts (no power in them at all). It takes power to run, climb and
fight. The fronts (and spitting/showing of the teeth) are merely a
warning to offenders.

You are the idiot. By the time most domestic cats resort to their back claws
they are already injured.

You've obviously never seen a cat fight. THe warning shots are
with the fronts. The killing is with the backs and teeth. There
simply isn't enough power in the front legs to do any real damage.

Because most cat fights are front end only a declawed cat usually get
scratched pretty good every time leading to infections a leading killer of
cats.

No, the leading killer of cats is tires, followed by disease.
Don't let your cats out and they'll live three times longer, on
average. They'll also not **** off the neighbors.

Another thing **** for brains.
Do you really want your cats ONLY defense against a toddler to be it's teeth
and BACK claws?

Well since my toddler is now 28... No, asshole for a mouth, the
cat's defense is to stay away from said toddler.

Are you really this callous?

Are you really this stupid, or did your mother think it becoming.

"krw" wrote in message
t...
In article ,
lid says...
krw wrote:


Nonsense! Dogs were domesticated something like a million years
ago. The resemble nothing of their wild cousins. Dogs *are* a
part of the family, though also a possession.


Nonsense! go read about the traits of a pit bull. "tendency to attack
other dogs" is mentioned and that is a very primitive trait.

Easily trained to be a pussy cat.

Every owner of a pit bull euthanized after attacking another pet or person
SWEARS that their little pooky bear was an angel until the incident happened.

People that don't believe in breed-specific behaviors have not owned very many
dogs. Humans have spent hundreds (or in a few cases thousands) of years
selectively breeding to get certain attributes from each breed. Do you actually
think that physical appearance is the only outcome of that?

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
I never said anything about pain. Let me repeat. De-clawing a cat robs it of
its primary offensive and defensive weapon. It cannot navigate at speed
without claws (do you wonder why the Cheeta is the only cat with
non-retractable claws), it cannot climb, it cannot stand and fight while
maintaining the ability to retreat.

Those who de-claw cats are evil and should be shunned by other species,
including humans. They are only one step above the scum that forms atop a
septic system in likeability, but even that is far, far higher than vets who
actually perform the procedure.

Declawed cats are not allowed outdoors (except by morons). Virtually all pet
advocacy groups recommend that cats NEVER be allowed to roam outdoors yet
millions of ignorant people do it and then wonder why fluffy doesn't come home
some night.

krw wrote in message ...

Our cats have never been outside. They don't have a real interest
in the outside, other than as a giant TV set.

Responsible cat owners don't let them outside, unless they have a kennel
type cage to keep them in so they can sun themselves etc. Too many cats
flattened in the streets, taken by dogs etc., then the owner is crying
about the loss of "fluffy," as if it isn't their fault for subjecting
the poor cat to all the hazards in the first place.

Cheri

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 16:56:38 -0500, krw wrote:
Another thing **** for brains.
Do you really want your cats ONLY defense against a toddler to be it's teeth
and BACK claws?
Are you really this callous?

I don't want a pet to have ANY defense against a toddler other than fleeing.
Jesus, you would rather a small child get cut up than allow a cat to have its
hair pulled.

wrote in message
...
Are you a complete idiot. Have you ever had a cat and visiting kids.
Cats are usually curled up minding their own business.
A cat can't flee when a kid has a death grip on it. It swipes with it's front
paw.

You said "Toddler". A cat that can't avoid a toddler is either ancient or
retarded.

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 25 Nov 2006 23:40:15 GMT, "Rick Brandt"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
Are you a complete idiot. Have you ever had a cat and visiting kids.
Cats are usually curled up minding their own business.
A cat can't flee when a kid has a death grip on it. It swipes with it's
front
paw.

You said "Toddler". A cat that can't avoid a toddler is either ancient or
retarded.

FACT asshole: Declawed cats BITE. Cat bites can be very dangerous.

Prove it. I've had several cats, all declawed and none of them ever bit anyone.
Perhaps your biting cats are frustrated over something else?

String a shocker line from a Fi-Shock along the base of the fence. It will
take the dog about two times. Unless he is a knucklehead, and then it could
take more than twice. If he hasn't learned by the tenth time he has been
shocked, trade him for a goldfish.

Steve

In article ,
says...
"krw" wrote in message
t...
In article ,
lid says...
krw wrote:


Nonsense! Dogs were domesticated something like a million years
ago. The resemble nothing of their wild cousins. Dogs *are* a
part of the family, though also a possession.


Nonsense! go read about the traits of a pit bull. "tendency to attack
other dogs" is mentioned and that is a very primitive trait.

Easily trained to be a pussy cat.

Every owner of a pit bull euthanized after attacking another pet or person
SWEARS that their little pooky bear was an angel until the incident happened.

....and millions never attack so much as a fly.

People that don't believe in breed-specific behaviors have not owned very many
dogs. Humans have spent hundreds (or in a few cases thousands) of years
selectively breeding to get certain attributes from each breed. Do you actually
think that physical appearance is the only outcome of that?

Have you ever heard of training a pet? I guess not, your momma
failed.

--
Keith