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Default fixing Andersen windows

anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web site
and finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how
this is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas.
I'm assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

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replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
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Default fixing Andersen windows

We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on the phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun and hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web site and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel



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N8N N8N is offline
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Default fixing Andersen windows

No, best I can figure I have 200 series "narroline" windows from
looking at their web site.

thanks,

nate

Art wrote:
We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on the phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun and hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web site and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel


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Default fixing Andersen windows

N8N wrote:
No, best I can figure I have 200 series "narroline" windows from
looking at their web site.

thanks,

nate

Art wrote:
We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on the phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun and hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web site and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel


Nate:

The narroline windows have screws that hold each of the window sash
liners (I seem to recall, actually, that it was the left side only).
Remove all the screws. Put some plastic lubricant (I use Armor All) on
the entire sash cover, so it can slide easily against the two window
frames. Slide both frames up, and gently pull the sash cover at the
bottom, away from the jamb. Pull it down, sliding it between the jamb
and the two frames. The plastic cover can fold/crease, be careful. I
found it useful to put a single layer of fabric on top of the sill to
protect it and so that I can slide the sash cover+the fabric against
the sill.

Remove the plastic cover for the top of the window, remove the strings
from the two frames (watch it, they can snap), replace the spring
assembly ( asingle screw), reinsert the strings with a pair of pliers
so they don't snap back. Replace top plastic cover.

Place the plastic "slides" (two pieces of plastic that are 0.5" by 0.5"
and are provided in the replacement spring box) in the two frames'
slots (they guide the sash cover) .

Put both frames up, and gently slide the sash covers back up, taking
great care to not crease/fold them (that's the most difficult part of
the job).

Re-install screws.

The first time you do it, it takes 15-20 minutes. After that, 5-10 at
the most.

Good luck.

Pierre

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Default fixing Andersen windows

N8N wrote:
No, best I can figure I have 200 series "narroline" windows from
looking at their web site.

thanks,

nate

Art wrote:
We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on the phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun and hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web site and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel


Nate:

The narroline windows have screws that hold each of the window sash
liners (I seem to recall, actually, that it was the left side only).
Remove all the screws. Put some plastic lubricant (I use Armor All) on
the entire sash cover, so it can slide easily against the two window
frames. Slide both frames up, and gently pull the sash cover at the
bottom, away from the jamb. Pull it down, sliding it between the jamb
and the two frames. The plastic cover can fold/crease, be careful. I
found it useful to put a single layer of fabric on top of the sill to
protect it and so that I can slide the sash cover+the fabric against
the sill.

Remove the plastic cover for the top of the window, remove the strings
from the two frames (watch it, they can snap), replace the spring
assembly ( asingle screw), reinsert the strings with a pair of pliers
so they don't snap back. Replace top plastic cover.

Place the plastic "slides" (two pieces of plastic that are 0.5" by 0.5"
and are provided in the replacement spring box) in the two frames'
slots (they guide the sash cover) .

Put both frames up, and gently slide the sash covers back up, taking
great care to not crease/fold them (that's the most difficult part of
the job).

Re-install screws.

The first time you do it, it takes 15-20 minutes. After that, 5-10 at
the most.

Good luck.

Pierre



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Posts: 191
Default fixing Andersen windows

wrote:
N8N wrote:

No, best I can figure I have 200 series "narroline" windows from
looking at their web site.

thanks,

nate

Art wrote:

We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on the phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun and hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...

anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web site and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel


Nate:

The narroline windows have screws that hold each of the window sash
liners (I seem to recall, actually, that it was the left side only).


yup, that looks right...

Remove all the screws. Put some plastic lubricant (I use Armor All) on
the entire sash cover, so it can slide easily against the two window
frames. Slide both frames up, and gently pull the sash cover at the
bottom, away from the jamb. Pull it down, sliding it between the jamb
and the two frames. The plastic cover can fold/crease, be careful. I
found it useful to put a single layer of fabric on top of the sill to
protect it and so that I can slide the sash cover+the fabric against
the sill.


I'm ASSuming that I'm doing this simply so I can get access to the side
of the sash where the string attaches?


Remove the plastic cover for the top of the window, remove the strings
from the two frames (watch it, they can snap), replace the spring
assembly ( asingle screw), reinsert the strings with a pair of pliers
so they don't snap back. Replace top plastic cover.

Place the plastic "slides" (two pieces of plastic that are 0.5" by 0.5"
and are provided in the replacement spring box) in the two frames'
slots (they guide the sash cover) .

Put both frames up, and gently slide the sash covers back up, taking
great care to not crease/fold them (that's the most difficult part of
the job).

Re-install screws.

The first time you do it, it takes 15-20 minutes. After that, 5-10 at
the most.

Good luck.

Pierre


Thanks! I was just coming back to this thread to ask for some guidance,
as I was not able to find a local parts dealer (the two Andersen
dealers listed on their web site within easy driving distance won't sell
me parts; the first was Home Despot and the second was a local window
specialty shop that stated "we only service windows that we've
installed." So much for buying them locally.) So I didn't get a chance
to speak to anyone actually knowledgeable about this procedure but...
looks like you've got it covered. I'll be saving your post for future
reference when the parts arrive.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
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Art Art is offline
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Posts: 788
Default fixing Andersen windows

Andersen parts come with instructions. Making sure you order the right part
is not easy. Verify by calling them. And ask if it is covered by warranty.
Often it is.


"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
wrote:
N8N wrote:

No, best I can figure I have 200 series "narroline" windows from
looking at their web site.

thanks,

nate

Art wrote:

We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on the
phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun and
hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your
mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...

anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web site
and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how
this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel


Nate:

The narroline windows have screws that hold each of the window sash
liners (I seem to recall, actually, that it was the left side only).


yup, that looks right...

Remove all the screws. Put some plastic lubricant (I use Armor All) on
the entire sash cover, so it can slide easily against the two window
frames. Slide both frames up, and gently pull the sash cover at the
bottom, away from the jamb. Pull it down, sliding it between the jamb
and the two frames. The plastic cover can fold/crease, be careful. I
found it useful to put a single layer of fabric on top of the sill to
protect it and so that I can slide the sash cover+the fabric against
the sill.


I'm ASSuming that I'm doing this simply so I can get access to the side of
the sash where the string attaches?


Remove the plastic cover for the top of the window, remove the strings
from the two frames (watch it, they can snap), replace the spring
assembly ( asingle screw), reinsert the strings with a pair of pliers
so they don't snap back. Replace top plastic cover.

Place the plastic "slides" (two pieces of plastic that are 0.5" by 0.5"
and are provided in the replacement spring box) in the two frames'
slots (they guide the sash cover) .

Put both frames up, and gently slide the sash covers back up, taking
great care to not crease/fold them (that's the most difficult part of
the job).

Re-install screws.

The first time you do it, it takes 15-20 minutes. After that, 5-10 at
the most.

Good luck.

Pierre


Thanks! I was just coming back to this thread to ask for some guidance,
as I was not able to find a local parts dealer (the two Andersen dealers
listed on their web site within easy driving distance won't sell me parts;
the first was Home Despot and the second was a local window specialty shop
that stated "we only service windows that we've installed." So much for
buying them locally.) So I didn't get a chance to speak to anyone
actually knowledgeable about this procedure but... looks like you've got
it covered. I'll be saving your post for future reference when the parts
arrive.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel



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Posts: 191
Default fixing Andersen windows

I had to call them, that was the only way I could order the parts (their
online form did not seem to work for me, I got an error when I went to
submit it.) IF the replacement parts come with instructions I should be
good to go then. My windows aren't under warranty; the ones in the
house are date coded '87 and the ones in the garage '79.

nate

Art wrote:
Andersen parts come with instructions. Making sure you order the right part
is not easy. Verify by calling them. And ask if it is covered by warranty.
Often it is.


"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...

wrote:

N8N wrote:


No, best I can figure I have 200 series "narroline" windows from
looking at their web site.

thanks,

nate

Art wrote:


We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on the
phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun and
hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your
mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...


anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web site
and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how
this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel


Nate:

The narroline windows have screws that hold each of the window sash
liners (I seem to recall, actually, that it was the left side only).


yup, that looks right...


Remove all the screws. Put some plastic lubricant (I use Armor All) on
the entire sash cover, so it can slide easily against the two window
frames. Slide both frames up, and gently pull the sash cover at the
bottom, away from the jamb. Pull it down, sliding it between the jamb
and the two frames. The plastic cover can fold/crease, be careful. I
found it useful to put a single layer of fabric on top of the sill to
protect it and so that I can slide the sash cover+the fabric against
the sill.


I'm ASSuming that I'm doing this simply so I can get access to the side of
the sash where the string attaches?


Remove the plastic cover for the top of the window, remove the strings
from the two frames (watch it, they can snap), replace the spring
assembly ( asingle screw), reinsert the strings with a pair of pliers
so they don't snap back. Replace top plastic cover.

Place the plastic "slides" (two pieces of plastic that are 0.5" by 0.5"
and are provided in the replacement spring box) in the two frames'
slots (they guide the sash cover) .

Put both frames up, and gently slide the sash covers back up, taking
great care to not crease/fold them (that's the most difficult part of
the job).

Re-install screws.

The first time you do it, it takes 15-20 minutes. After that, 5-10 at
the most.

Good luck.

Pierre


Thanks! I was just coming back to this thread to ask for some guidance,
as I was not able to find a local parts dealer (the two Andersen dealers
listed on their web site within easy driving distance won't sell me parts;
the first was Home Despot and the second was a local window specialty shop
that stated "we only service windows that we've installed." So much for
buying them locally.) So I didn't get a chance to speak to anyone
actually knowledgeable about this procedure but... looks like you've got
it covered. I'll be saving your post for future reference when the parts
arrive.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel






--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
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Posts: 191
Default fixing Andersen windows

Nate Nagel wrote:
wrote:

N8N wrote:

No, best I can figure I have 200 series "narroline" windows from
looking at their web site.

thanks,

nate

Art wrote:

We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on
the phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun and
hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your
mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...

anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web
site and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see how
this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel



Nate:

The narroline windows have screws that hold each of the window sash
liners (I seem to recall, actually, that it was the left side only).



yup, that looks right...

Remove all the screws. Put some plastic lubricant (I use Armor All) on
the entire sash cover, so it can slide easily against the two window
frames. Slide both frames up, and gently pull the sash cover at the
bottom, away from the jamb. Pull it down, sliding it between the jamb
and the two frames. The plastic cover can fold/crease, be careful. I
found it useful to put a single layer of fabric on top of the sill to
protect it and so that I can slide the sash cover+the fabric against
the sill.



I'm ASSuming that I'm doing this simply so I can get access to the side
of the sash where the string attaches?


Remove the plastic cover for the top of the window, remove the strings
from the two frames (watch it, they can snap), replace the spring
assembly ( asingle screw), reinsert the strings with a pair of pliers
so they don't snap back. Replace top plastic cover.

Place the plastic "slides" (two pieces of plastic that are 0.5" by 0.5"
and are provided in the replacement spring box) in the two frames'
slots (they guide the sash cover) .

Put both frames up, and gently slide the sash covers back up, taking
great care to not crease/fold them (that's the most difficult part of
the job).

Re-install screws.

The first time you do it, it takes 15-20 minutes. After that, 5-10 at
the most.

Good luck.

Pierre


Thanks! I was just coming back to this thread to ask for some guidance,
as I was not able to find a local parts dealer (the two Andersen
dealers listed on their web site within easy driving distance won't sell
me parts; the first was Home Despot and the second was a local window
specialty shop that stated "we only service windows that we've
installed." So much for buying them locally.) So I didn't get a chance
to speak to anyone actually knowledgeable about this procedure but...
looks like you've got it covered. I'll be saving your post for future
reference when the parts arrive.

nate


Following up to my own post I know...

parts arrived today, happy happy joy joy... already fix0red one double
hung window (busted latch, no big whoop) and one casement (busted
actuator) while waiting for the girlie to get back from the grocery
store. I'm stuck on the counterbalance however... instructions that
came with the new assembly were pretty much exactly what Pierre posted
above (thanks!) I got the left side jamb liner out OK (with a little
grunting and lots of careful work with a razor blade to loosen it from
the old paint) but I'm stuck on the plastic head liner piece; the pic
shows it being pulled straight down after removing the screws however
mine is stuck fast at the inside of the window. Is there a small hook
in the plastic such that I need to pull it towards the inside of the
house to release it? If so that's bad news because it means that the
trim has to come off... I tried another window where it appeared that
the trim had been installed slightly farther away from the window and I
couldn't get that one out either.

thanks for all the help so far...

nate

PS - unrelated rant. I freakin' HATE shopping more every day. I am
starting to love buying stuff online. I swear the general public is a
bunch of freakin' thieves; every time I go to Home Despot I find that I
need to open the box of whatever I'm looking to purchase to make sure
someone hasn't got there before me and ripped off half the bits. I got
burned at Sears the other day, tried to buy an attachment set for my
shop vac and when I got home someone had stolen everything but the hose,
and the box had been taped up!!!! and put back on the shelf. Of course
they didn't actually have one with all the attachments and tried to hit
me with a restocking fee, if you can believe that. So much for
supporting my local economy... and I'm supposedly living in one of the
"desirable" neighborhoods! I'd hate to see what it's like in the bad
part of town.

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
  #10   Report Post  
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Posts: 191
Default fixing Andersen windows

Nate Nagel wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote:

wrote:

N8N wrote:

No, best I can figure I have 200 series "narroline" windows from
looking at their web site.

thanks,

nate

Art wrote:

We had to replace a damaged sill on a vinyl clad Andersen window. We
ordered all the parts from Andersen and they were very helpful on
the phone.
But taking it apart and putting it back together is not much fun
and hard to
get right. We don't have tilt out windows. If you have those your
mileage
may vary.



"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...

anyone have any experience fixing Andersen double hung windows with
nonfunctional counterbalance hardware? After perusing their web
site and
finding out how to remove the plastic sash liners I think I see
how this
is supposed to work, but just wondered if there were any gotchas. I'm
assuming I will find either broken springs or rotted cords, but the
windows themselves are still in good shape so I am not motivated to
replace them.

thanks,

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel




Nate:

The narroline windows have screws that hold each of the window sash
liners (I seem to recall, actually, that it was the left side only).




yup, that looks right...

Remove all the screws. Put some plastic lubricant (I use Armor All) on
the entire sash cover, so it can slide easily against the two window
frames. Slide both frames up, and gently pull the sash cover at the
bottom, away from the jamb. Pull it down, sliding it between the jamb
and the two frames. The plastic cover can fold/crease, be careful. I
found it useful to put a single layer of fabric on top of the sill to
protect it and so that I can slide the sash cover+the fabric against
the sill.




I'm ASSuming that I'm doing this simply so I can get access to the
side of the sash where the string attaches?


Remove the plastic cover for the top of the window, remove the strings
from the two frames (watch it, they can snap), replace the spring
assembly ( asingle screw), reinsert the strings with a pair of pliers
so they don't snap back. Replace top plastic cover.

Place the plastic "slides" (two pieces of plastic that are 0.5" by 0.5"
and are provided in the replacement spring box) in the two frames'
slots (they guide the sash cover) .

Put both frames up, and gently slide the sash covers back up, taking
great care to not crease/fold them (that's the most difficult part of
the job).

Re-install screws.

The first time you do it, it takes 15-20 minutes. After that, 5-10 at
the most.

Good luck.

Pierre


Thanks! I was just coming back to this thread to ask for some
guidance, as I was not able to find a local parts dealer (the two
Andersen dealers listed on their web site within easy driving distance
won't sell me parts; the first was Home Despot and the second was a
local window specialty shop that stated "we only service windows that
we've installed." So much for buying them locally.) So I didn't get
a chance to speak to anyone actually knowledgeable about this
procedure but... looks like you've got it covered. I'll be saving
your post for future reference when the parts arrive.

nate


Following up to my own post I know...

parts arrived today, happy happy joy joy... already fix0red one double
hung window (busted latch, no big whoop) and one casement (busted
actuator) while waiting for the girlie to get back from the grocery
store. I'm stuck on the counterbalance however... instructions that
came with the new assembly were pretty much exactly what Pierre posted
above (thanks!) I got the left side jamb liner out OK (with a little
grunting and lots of careful work with a razor blade to loosen it from
the old paint) but I'm stuck on the plastic head liner piece; the pic
shows it being pulled straight down after removing the screws however
mine is stuck fast at the inside of the window. Is there a small hook
in the plastic such that I need to pull it towards the inside of the
house to release it? If so that's bad news because it means that the
trim has to come off... I tried another window where it appeared that
the trim had been installed slightly farther away from the window and I
couldn't get that one out either.

thanks for all the help so far...

nate


fixed it... you guys and the instructions were right. What I didn't
count on was whoever installed the trim (and I just discovered that the
wall in my bathroom is about 3/4" thicker than elsewhere in the house -
wonder why?) CAULKED behind the wood spacer between the window and the
molding before they nailed it on. So not only was I dealing with 2-3
layers of paint, the header strip was gooed on by caulking as well.
Took me a while with a razor blade to get it free enough to pull down,
but now that I see how these were installed it'll go way quicker next time.

on to the next project...

nate

(who can now leave the bathroom window open while taking a shower, which
is probably a Good Thing.)

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
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Default fixing Andersen windows

replying to Nate Nagel, NYArtist wrote:
Where would I get the rubber lining seal for the bottom of a casement window
that has fallen apart? Anderson window.

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Default fixing Andersen windows

On Tue, 11 Jul 2017 13:44:02 GMT, NYArtist
m wrote:

replying to Nate Nagel, NYArtist wrote:
Where would I get the rubber lining seal for the bottom of a casement window
that has fallen apart? Anderson window.

From your AndersEn Windows dealer, of course!!!
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