Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big. What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more than 1/4
inch wide at most.

I can post some pics for your laughing pleasure if I haven't described
my shotty work well enough.

Thanks for reading and replying

Ed

I have not found an easy way to do it, but the best way I have found is to
run a strip of fiberglass tape across the area, add mud and sand. Repeat
with the mud and sanding until you're happy.



"highflyr" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big. What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more than 1/4
inch wide at most.

I can post some pics for your laughing pleasure if I haven't described
my shotty work well enough.

Thanks for reading and replying

Ed

I have found that painting the raw cut edge of the drywall with latex paint
increases the adhesion of the mud to these edges and improves the ability to
fill such overcuts around holes, otherwise the mud simply won't stick or
just falls off when dry.

"highflyr" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big. What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more than 1/4
inch wide at most.

I can post some pics for your laughing pleasure if I haven't described
my shotty work well enough.

Thanks for reading and replying

Ed

Make some "finger print catchers" of Formica or FRP in an
appropriate color with the correct size hole in the center to trap
between the switch and the cover plate.

Caulk or surface applied drywall compound will not work.

The best thing is to make the hole right by taping in the
overcuts. This will mean tape/bed/sand/recoat/repaint. Cut a
piece of left over drywall about 6" x 8", score the back of the
rock a few times and break and peel the drywall off the back of
the finish paper, carefully cut the correct size hole in the
center of the piece, butter the back of the piece generously with
drywall compound, apply and wipe in. It will probably still need
another coat to blend in the edges.
___________________________
Keep the whole world singing. . . .
DanG


"highflyr" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch
and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my
drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover
the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big.
What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more
than 1/4
inch wide at most.

I can post some pics for your laughing pleasure if I haven't
described
my shotty work well enough.

Thanks for reading and replying

Ed

I can post some pics for your laughing pleasure if I haven't described
my shotty work well enough.

Thanks for reading and replying

Ed

I'd laugh at almost anything except that. I've cut a lot of holes for
outlets in my day (mostly remodel work) and I still get nervous every
time I do it.

I've never used this method before, but there's a suggestion for
repairing electrical outlet holes at:
http://www.fibatape.com/project_cent...ng/outlet.html
http://www.fibatape.com/product_gallery/patches.html

Good luck.

In article 4556781a$0$81447
,
p says...
I have found that painting the raw cut edge of the drywall with latex paint
increases the adhesion of the mud to these edges and improves the ability to
fill such overcuts around holes, otherwise the mud simply won't stick or
just falls off when dry.

It's also useful to use the mix-it stuff rather than the pre-mixed
mud. The latter turns back to mud when it gets wet by the next
coat'; very frustrating. I use the "90-minute sandable" mix, for
at least the first coat or two.

--
Keith

highflyr wrote:
Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big. What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more than 1/4
inch wide at most.

I can post some pics for your laughing pleasure if I haven't described
my shotty work well enough.

Thanks for reading and replying

Ed

The fix is simple. You cut paper tape (not fiberglass!), mud the tape
well before applying. It helps to fill the gaps with mud before
applying the tape, just fill the gaps as much as possible. Apply the
tape. Make your second and third coats as you are mudding other
joints. Once dry and painted you can't tell there was a problem.

Why not fiberglass? Because it is too thick. You can't do a good
finish job over fiberglass tape on the flat without building mud up
much thicker than with paper tape.

As an aside. When hanging 'rock, don't try to make your fits tight.
Gaps up to 1/4 inch between sheets are fine.

Tape and mud are your friends.

Harry K

All great tips, thanks very much guys.

Harry K wrote:
highflyr wrote:
Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big. What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more than 1/4
inch wide at most.

I can post some pics for your laughing pleasure if I haven't described
my shotty work well enough.

Thanks for reading and replying

Ed

The fix is simple. You cut paper tape (not fiberglass!), mud the tape
well before applying. It helps to fill the gaps with mud before
applying the tape, just fill the gaps as much as possible. Apply the
tape. Make your second and third coats as you are mudding other
joints. Once dry and painted you can't tell there was a problem.

Why not fiberglass? Because it is too thick. You can't do a good
finish job over fiberglass tape on the flat without building mud up
much thicker than with paper tape.

As an aside. When hanging 'rock, don't try to make your fits tight.
Gaps up to 1/4 inch between sheets are fine.

Tape and mud are your friends.

Harry K

On 12 Nov 2006 12:17:11 -0800, "highflyr"
wrotF:

All great tips, thanks very much guys.


Buy some DAP "Presto Patch." It's a powder mix that dries in about 30
minutes, is rock hard and adheres to wallboard if the board is
dampened a bit. Mix a batch, spread it into the opening, let dry and
sand. One more application and it should be ready for painting.

highflyr wrote:
Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big. What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more than 1/4
inch wide at most.

hf:

Patching plaster should work fine. Note that according to the NEC you
/must/ fill any gaps between electrical boxes and the surrounding
surface.
A lot of people don't do this.

Cordially yours:
G P

After messing up box cutouts dozens of times I've found a rotozip tool
(or even a power drill with a rotozip bit) works well for cutting the
boxes right the first time. Just put the drywall up loose (about a
half inch off the studs is as far as you're gonna go for now) drill
right into the drywall somewhere inside the box (don't hit the box,
wires, children's toys or small tools like tape measures left in the
box for petes sake) then just run your bit around in the box quickly.
Then tighten the few loose screws, and finish the hanging.

Works on cieling too, but you've gotta put in a bunch of screws first
if you don't have one of those fancy lift things to hold the sheetrock.

If you've got a 1/4" straight cutting router bit, it might do the job
too...maybe... it might get gummed up a lot easier than a rotozip.

My last piece of amateur drywall advice: a case of beer and 2-3
friends are the best tools you'll ever have doing this job. Never
underestimate how fast a friend who has never sheetrocked before will
pick up the necessary skills to make it look decent, and it's a LOT
more fun this way.

In article . com,
says...
After messing up box cutouts dozens of times I've found a rotozip tool
(or even a power drill with a rotozip bit) works well for cutting the
boxes right the first time. Just put the drywall up loose (about a
half inch off the studs is as far as you're gonna go for now) drill
right into the drywall somewhere inside the box (don't hit the box,
wires, children's toys or small tools like tape measures left in the
box for petes sake) then just run your bit around in the box quickly.
Then tighten the few loose screws, and finish the hanging.

RotoZip is an amazingly useful tool! I've used mine on pretty much
every project lately. Enough that I fear that I've about killed
it. :-(

Works on cieling too, but you've gotta put in a bunch of screws first
if you don't have one of those fancy lift things to hold the sheetrock.

If I were to do a ceiling again I'd rent a lift. Too much work any
other way. I do have a small patch (32"x36") I have to do in the
next week or so but that's not enough to bother.

If you've got a 1/4" straight cutting router bit, it might do the job
too...maybe... it might get gummed up a lot easier than a rotozip.

The sheetrock outlet cutter has a dead point to follow the box. A
router but (or even standard RotoZip bit) will cut right through
the box.

My last piece of amateur drywall advice: a case of beer and 2-3
friends are the best tools you'll ever have doing this job. Never
underestimate how fast a friend who has never sheetrocked before will
pick up the necessary skills to make it look decent, and it's a LOT
more fun this way.

One slight modification; don't open the beer until you're done.
BTDT. The next day the drywall looked like crap. Good thing
mudders know their stuff. ;-)

--
Keith

wrote in message
oups.com...

highflyr wrote:
Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big. What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more than 1/4
inch wide at most.

hf:

Patching plaster should work fine. Note that according to the NEC you
/must/ fill any gaps between electrical boxes and the surrounding
surface.
A lot of people don't do this.

Uh, doesn't that refer to gaps between the edge of the box and the surface
of the wall? (box set too deep, needing an extender ring.) IOW, no place for
sparks to land? I can think of no reason NEC would care about gaps outside
the box, as long as the device is tight up against the back of the cover
plate.

aem sends...

Where do I find one of these "box cutting" rotozip cutter deals?
You're right about it tearing up boxes, but I never cut THROUGH one
(more careful than that)

In article .com,
says...
Where do I find one of these "box cutting" rotozip cutter deals?

Try the BORG. They're one of the main purposes of the RotoZip.
Sheesh, I thought every RZ came with them. Perhaps you thought
they were a normal bit and didn't notice that they had no bite in
the first 1/2"?

You're right about it tearing up boxes, but I never cut THROUGH one
(more careful than that)

Think "pilot pin" and buy the proper tools.

--
Keith

wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

highflyr wrote:
Hi everyone,

I'm finishing my bsmnt and when I'm putting on the light switch and
electrical receptacle covers, I'm realizing how amateur my drywalling
is.

I've bought the oversize ones and for the most part, they cover the
imperfections.

There are a few places where they hole was simply cut too big. What's
the best and fastest way to fix it? None of the gaps are more than 1/4
inch wide at most.

hf:

Patching plaster should work fine. Note that according to the NEC you
/must/ fill any gaps between electrical boxes and the surrounding
surface.
A lot of people don't do this.

Uh, doesn't that refer to gaps between the edge of the box and the surface
of the wall? (box set too deep, needing an extender ring.) IOW, no place for
sparks to land? I can think of no reason NEC would care about gaps outside
the box, as long as the device is tight up against the back of the cover
plate.

aem sends...

That is my understanding. If it is the other gap that is referred to,
there are a whole lot of houses that don't meet code.

Harry K

I just bought mine on ebay for half of new. Looks like it's never been
used, but was listed as used.

--
Steve Barker



wrote in message
oups.com...
Where do I find one of these "box cutting" rotozip cutter deals?
You're right about it tearing up boxes, but I never cut THROUGH one
(more careful than that)

In article .com,
says...
Where do I find one of these "box cutting" rotozip cutter deals?
You're right about it tearing up boxes, but I never cut THROUGH one
(more careful than that)

They're called "guidepoint" bits:

http://www.rotozip.com/Shop/Category...D=66586&BID=18
&HID=188064

--
Keith