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[email protected] November 7th 06 03:30 PM

Tiling a table top
 
I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.

Just a couple of silly questions.

Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?

Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
backerboard?

Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?

The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
rigid.

Any ideas or advice?


[email protected] November 7th 06 04:22 PM

Tiling a table top
 
What is the table made from?
Does it deflect any when you push on it?
wrote:
I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.

Just a couple of silly questions.

Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?

Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
backerboard?

Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?

The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
rigid.

Any ideas or advice?



krw November 7th 06 04:35 PM

Tiling a table top
 
In article .com,
says...
I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.

Just a couple of silly questions.

Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?


I wouldn't. The plastic will interfere with the adhesion.

Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
backerboard?


That's the normal way of doing things.

Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?


No. I think thinset is the way to go.

The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
rigid.


Unless the table is quite large, I'd use 1/2" backer. I'm not sure
what to do with the screws though. 1/2" isn't much to bite into.
Maybe your idea of 1/2" plywood glued to the bare wood (sanded) is
the way to go. Then use 1" screws and thinset 1/4" backer to that.

How are you planning to finish the edge?

Any ideas or advice?

--
Keith

[email protected] November 7th 06 04:41 PM

Tiling a table top
 
Note that grout is not a perfect water seal. Rain WILL seep through
the grout on a table as it is a flat surface. I'd consider web articles
about constructing tile shower stalls in order to provide a permanent
piece of outdoor furniture.

Also, how you plan to finish the edges should help you determine how
thick you want the overall top surface to be. Also, bullnose tile
seems much more expensive than the basic square stuff....in my
experience anyhow.

Best of luck, sounds like a really great way to use an old table.


plasma800 November 7th 06 05:24 PM

Tiling a table top
 
The table does have some flex to it when you push on it. It's 8' long
by 29 11/16" wide. The top is made of partical board.

It will be sitting out outside. If the table dies after a season or
two, I don't know that I would die.

I was planning on mailing backerboard to the outside edges and using
bullnose tile or cut peices for the sides.

I also considered just framing the aoutside edges with some 2x4 or
something of the sort. Still in planning.

So far it seems that a plywood topper is going to be a great idea for
both rigidity and bite.


dadiOH November 7th 06 05:49 PM

Tiling a table top
 
plasma800 wrote:
The table does have some flex to it when you push on it. It's 8'
long by 29 11/16" wide. The top is made of partical board.

It will be sitting out outside. If the table dies after a season or
two, I don't know that I would die.

I was planning on mailing backerboard to the outside edges and using
bullnose tile or cut peices for the sides.

I also considered just framing the aoutside edges with some 2x4 or
something of the sort. Still in planning.

So far it seems that a plywood topper is going to be a great idea
for both rigidity and bite.


For a table that long you will certainly need it - use 3/4" exterior
ply. Framing outside edges with something is a good idea too. Even
better is to also hook a couple of cross pieces between the long
sides...that should firm the top up nicely.

The PB top is junk and any moisture will make it swell and ruin your
work in very short order. If at all possible, replace it. If you
can't, here is what I would do...

1. Cover the PB with plastic - heavy like visqueen - but do NOT staple
it to the top...wrap it over the top and sides (folding the corners)
and staple it to the underneath side.

2. Cover #1 with 3/4 exterior ply. Again, do not fasten through the
top...band with substantial wood, add a horizontal piece attached to
the banding so it extends under the PB and fasten through that up into
the PB & ply. Leave the banding sufficiently high so that it will
also border the tile after you lay it...better too high than too low,
you can always plane it down.

3. At that point you could either add 1/4 or 1/2" cement board and
tile on it using thinset; however, if that will make the top thicker
than desired you could lay the tile on the plywood. Main things are
to assure the top won't flex and keep moisture away from the PB.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico




RicodJour November 7th 06 06:10 PM

Tiling a table top
 

plasma800 wrote:
The table does have some flex to it when you push on it. It's 8' long
by 29 11/16" wide. The top is made of partical board.

It will be sitting out outside. If the table dies after a season or
two, I don't know that I would die.


You are underestimating the amount of work involved and the amount of
ego that will be invested in such a project. If it died after a season
or two, you could very well be psychically scarred.

I was planning on mailing backerboard to the outside edges and using
bullnose tile or cut peices for the sides.

I also considered just framing the aoutside edges with some 2x4 or
something of the sort. Still in planning.

So far it seems that a plywood topper is going to be a great idea for
both rigidity and bite.


Retrofitting an inappropriate piece, with bad bones to start, in an
attempt to make it a propriate piece, is a bit daft.

Start fresh. If you have the ability to cut plywood, tile and backer
board, you have the ability to make a new table. Buy some treated
plywood, frame with treated 2x material, thinset/screw backerboard to
the plywood and have at the tile. Save the legs if they are worth
salvaging.

R


Bob F November 7th 06 08:06 PM

Tiling a table top
 

"plasma800" wrote in message
oups.com...
The table does have some flex to it when you push on it. It's 8' long
by 29 11/16" wide. The top is made of partical board.

It will be sitting out outside. If the table dies after a season or
two, I don't know that I would die.


Particle board outside will die, unless your climate is very
dry. Replace it with exterior plywood if you want it to last.
Either way, once you have a solid surface for the tile, you
could coat it with several coats of Redgard to prevent water
penetration into the backerboard and plywood. Redgard
is not cheap, but neither is tile, so it might be worth it.

Bob



George November 7th 06 10:47 PM

Tiling a table top
 

wrote:
I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.

Just a couple of silly questions.

Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?

Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
backerboard?

Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?

The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
rigid.

Any ideas or advice?


Any ideas or advice?


Yep, skip the whole idea, throw the cheap table away and buy a good
patio table. Tile top tables and counters are a real pain in the a** to
clean and nothing really sits "flat and stable" on them anyway.
Trust me, you'll work yer butt off to build this thing, spend nearly as
much as a new table costs and in the end you won't be happy with it.

Well, thats MY opinion (you DID ask for advice, right?) :-)

George


plasma800 November 7th 06 11:01 PM

Tiling a table top
 

Points very well taken!


Heathcliff November 7th 06 11:18 PM

Tiling a table top
 

wrote:
I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.

Just a couple of silly questions.

Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?

Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
backerboard?

Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?

The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
rigid.

Any ideas or advice?


Well, as you have seen from the responses above, doing this right is
probably way more hassle than it's worth. So, here is advice on how to
do it in harmony with the cheapness of the table: buy some peel and
stick vinyl tile and put that on. That will actually be cheap, fast,
and more likely to protect the particle board; will look slightly
better than the original; and be something you chose and did. If you
want to get really fancy, paint the top and edges of the particle board
with something like a stain/sealer, or oil-based primer, to waterproof
it before putting on the vinyl tile. -- H


plasma800 November 8th 06 04:32 AM

Tiling a table top
 
LOL Nice idea actually!!!



Heathcliff wrote:
wrote:
I'm going to kick of my first tiling job on the top of a farily cheap
table. To make an ugly table into something nice for the back porch.

Just a couple of silly questions.

Should I staple plastic down between the table top and the backerboard?

Should I skip the plastic and thin set between the table and the
backerboard?

Should I simply nail or screw the backerboard down? Skip the thinset?

The table is thin, 1/2, maybe a tad less. I wonder If i should top it
with a piece of plywood then backboard? Would also make the table more
rigid.

Any ideas or advice?


Well, as you have seen from the responses above, doing this right is
probably way more hassle than it's worth. So, here is advice on how to
do it in harmony with the cheapness of the table: buy some peel and
stick vinyl tile and put that on. That will actually be cheap, fast,
and more likely to protect the particle board; will look slightly
better than the original; and be something you chose and did. If you
want to get really fancy, paint the top and edges of the particle board
with something like a stain/sealer, or oil-based primer, to waterproof
it before putting on the vinyl tile. -- H



Chris Lewis November 9th 06 06:21 PM

Tiling a table top
 
According to Bob F :

"plasma800" wrote in message
oups.com...
The table does have some flex to it when you push on it. It's 8' long
by 29 11/16" wide. The top is made of partical board.


It will be sitting out outside. If the table dies after a season or
two, I don't know that I would die.


Particle board outside will die, unless your climate is very
dry.


It'll die _very_ quickly. Possibly after the first rainfall.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.


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