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Default whirlpool direct drive washer - spin cycle broken :

hi all,

newer model ( 1yr old) whirlpool washer. i bought the washer from
someone who said they bought it for their son but son never used it
because he moved to california before he could use it, blah, blah
blah.. who knows, right?

anyways, here is the problem:

all cycles work fine, until it gets to spin cycle.

while on spin cycle,

-if i lift the lid, "motor" noise cuts off
-if i close the lid to the point where the lift switch is re-engaged,
the "motor" noise cuts on, however no spinning occurs.
-if i have the lid up, and try to turn the basket, it will not budge
-if i simply have the lid down, on spin cycle, and watch the drain
hose, i can see some water pumping out vary sporadically (pulsing every
5-10seconds maybe) .. which leads me to believe faulty water pump or
something clogged not allowing it to drain well? the catch is that
inside the bowl i see no water. so where is all this magical water,
eh?


i dont have a sales receipt for the washer.. but it's less than a year
old.. can i call the 800# on the lid and will they walk me through
instructions and such, or are they jerks?

if you think this job of diagnosing / repairing might be over 5-10
hours of work, let me know, as i can simply toss the washer out and
just put in more hours at my job and just buy a brand new washer...
without these problems..

thanks all to those who help!

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Posts: 289
Default whirlpool direct drive washer - spin cycle broken :

Try energizing the motor directly--make sure that when you do this, you
disengage the motor from any leads going back to boards, etc.
Will proly have to cut wires, re-splice them w/ wire nuts.
Presumably it's a multiple speed motor, but maybe "direct drive" means it's
beltless, and some kind of transmission is still there. Hopefully there is a
wiring/speed chart, but if not, I have found that usually white is the
neutral, black is the high speed, and the various colors are intermediate
speeds. The capacitor is internally wired, so you only have to connect the
white, and one color at a time.
At least on my multi-speed **** furnace, so ineptly installed by fuknYost &
Campbell, here in Westchester, NY.

First, tho, try to jump the lockout switch, so's you can see what's going on
w/ the lid up.
I had a drain problem, turned out the drain hose had slipped down and
kinked.
--
--
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, for *Anyone BUT* a Democrat or a Republican
Ending Corruption in Congress is the Single Best Way
to Materially Improve Your Life
entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs
"kyle" wrote in message
oups.com...
hi all,

newer model ( 1yr old) whirlpool washer. i bought the washer from
someone who said they bought it for their son but son never used it
because he moved to california before he could use it, blah, blah
blah.. who knows, right?

anyways, here is the problem:

all cycles work fine, until it gets to spin cycle.

while on spin cycle,

-if i lift the lid, "motor" noise cuts off
-if i close the lid to the point where the lift switch is re-engaged,
the "motor" noise cuts on, however no spinning occurs.
-if i have the lid up, and try to turn the basket, it will not budge
-if i simply have the lid down, on spin cycle, and watch the drain
hose, i can see some water pumping out vary sporadically (pulsing every
5-10seconds maybe) .. which leads me to believe faulty water pump or
something clogged not allowing it to drain well? the catch is that
inside the bowl i see no water. so where is all this magical water,
eh?


i dont have a sales receipt for the washer.. but it's less than a year
old.. can i call the 800# on the lid and will they walk me through
instructions and such, or are they jerks?

if you think this job of diagnosing / repairing might be over 5-10
hours of work, let me know, as i can simply toss the washer out and
just put in more hours at my job and just buy a brand new washer...
without these problems..

thanks all to those who help!



  #3   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 10
Default whirlpool direct drive washer - spin cycle broken :

hi all,

i have a question.. i am searching for a new washing machine because
the repair man gave a death sentence to my current one.. and i read
somewhere about "transporting brackets" or "drum brackets" that are
used for transporting washing machines.. and it will not spin while
these brackets are installed.. which is exactly my problem!!

where are these located, besides the obvious answer of, underneath.. :
what could i be looking for when looking underneath ? i want to try
this tonight before i go buy a new washer!!


http://groups.google.com/group/uk.d-...5322db93b27d4b




Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Try energizing the motor directly--make sure that when you do this, you
disengage the motor from any leads going back to boards, etc.
Will proly have to cut wires, re-splice them w/ wire nuts.
Presumably it's a multiple speed motor, but maybe "direct drive" means it's
beltless, and some kind of transmission is still there. Hopefully there is a
wiring/speed chart, but if not, I have found that usually white is the
neutral, black is the high speed, and the various colors are intermediate
speeds. The capacitor is internally wired, so you only have to connect the
white, and one color at a time.
At least on my multi-speed **** furnace, so ineptly installed by fuknYost &
Campbell, here in Westchester, NY.

First, tho, try to jump the lockout switch, so's you can see what's going on
w/ the lid up.
I had a drain problem, turned out the drain hose had slipped down and
kinked.
--
--
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, for *Anyone BUT* a Democrat or a Republican
Ending Corruption in Congress is the Single Best Way
to Materially Improve Your Life
entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs
"kyle" wrote in message
oups.com...
hi all,

newer model ( 1yr old) whirlpool washer. i bought the washer from
someone who said they bought it for their son but son never used it
because he moved to california before he could use it, blah, blah
blah.. who knows, right?

anyways, here is the problem:

all cycles work fine, until it gets to spin cycle.

while on spin cycle,

-if i lift the lid, "motor" noise cuts off
-if i close the lid to the point where the lift switch is re-engaged,
the "motor" noise cuts on, however no spinning occurs.
-if i have the lid up, and try to turn the basket, it will not budge
-if i simply have the lid down, on spin cycle, and watch the drain
hose, i can see some water pumping out vary sporadically (pulsing every
5-10seconds maybe) .. which leads me to believe faulty water pump or
something clogged not allowing it to drain well? the catch is that
inside the bowl i see no water. so where is all this magical water,
eh?


i dont have a sales receipt for the washer.. but it's less than a year
old.. can i call the 800# on the lid and will they walk me through
instructions and such, or are they jerks?

if you think this job of diagnosing / repairing might be over 5-10
hours of work, let me know, as i can simply toss the washer out and
just put in more hours at my job and just buy a brand new washer...
without these problems..

thanks all to those who help!


  #4   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 10
Default whirlpool direct drive washer - spin cycle broken :

after further investigation, it seems like the machine would behave
differently than what it does when the brackets are still there...
sooo nevermind... ahh well, off to purchase a new washer!


kyle wrote:
hi all,

i have a question.. i am searching for a new washing machine because
the repair man gave a death sentence to my current one.. and i read
somewhere about "transporting brackets" or "drum brackets" that are
used for transporting washing machines.. and it will not spin while
these brackets are installed.. which is exactly my problem!!

where are these located, besides the obvious answer of, underneath.. :
what could i be looking for when looking underneath ? i want to try
this tonight before i go buy a new washer!!


http://groups.google.com/group/uk.d-...5322db93b27d4b




Proctologically Violated©® wrote:
Try energizing the motor directly--make sure that when you do this, you
disengage the motor from any leads going back to boards, etc.
Will proly have to cut wires, re-splice them w/ wire nuts.
Presumably it's a multiple speed motor, but maybe "direct drive" means it's
beltless, and some kind of transmission is still there. Hopefully there is a
wiring/speed chart, but if not, I have found that usually white is the
neutral, black is the high speed, and the various colors are intermediate
speeds. The capacitor is internally wired, so you only have to connect the
white, and one color at a time.
At least on my multi-speed **** furnace, so ineptly installed by fuknYost &
Campbell, here in Westchester, NY.

First, tho, try to jump the lockout switch, so's you can see what's going on
w/ the lid up.
I had a drain problem, turned out the drain hose had slipped down and
kinked.
--
--
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, for *Anyone BUT* a Democrat or a Republican
Ending Corruption in Congress is the Single Best Way
to Materially Improve Your Life
entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs
"kyle" wrote in message
oups.com...
hi all,

newer model ( 1yr old) whirlpool washer. i bought the washer from
someone who said they bought it for their son but son never used it
because he moved to california before he could use it, blah, blah
blah.. who knows, right?

anyways, here is the problem:

all cycles work fine, until it gets to spin cycle.

while on spin cycle,

-if i lift the lid, "motor" noise cuts off
-if i close the lid to the point where the lift switch is re-engaged,
the "motor" noise cuts on, however no spinning occurs.
-if i have the lid up, and try to turn the basket, it will not budge
-if i simply have the lid down, on spin cycle, and watch the drain
hose, i can see some water pumping out vary sporadically (pulsing every
5-10seconds maybe) .. which leads me to believe faulty water pump or
something clogged not allowing it to drain well? the catch is that
inside the bowl i see no water. so where is all this magical water,
eh?


i dont have a sales receipt for the washer.. but it's less than a year
old.. can i call the 800# on the lid and will they walk me through
instructions and such, or are they jerks?

if you think this job of diagnosing / repairing might be over 5-10
hours of work, let me know, as i can simply toss the washer out and
just put in more hours at my job and just buy a brand new washer...
without these problems..

thanks all to those who help!


  #5   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Posts: 93
Default whirlpool direct drive washer - spin cycle broken :

With a direct drive washer, when the motor is not energized, the brake
is activated and you can't turn the basket easily. If you are not
getting any spin action in the spin cycle with the motor energized,
then more than likely the motor coupling is broken. The coupler kit
has a pronged plastic piece that goes on the motor, another on the
gearcase, and a rubber disk in between. You can tilt the washer back a
bit, and look up into the slot of the gearcase, between the gearcase
and the motor, and see the coupler. Usually a broken coupler will make
noise similar to putting a baseball card on a spinning bike wheel, like
when you were a kid. But sometimes a broken coupler makes no noise.
You can search on the internet for instructions on how to change the
coupler. You can do it from underneath if you have nimble fingers, or
you can take the cabinet off for better access.

Shipping braces are most common on front load washers during transport,
because there is very little to keep the guts of the washer stable
otherwise. On a top load washer, stability during transport is
important, but not as critical as on a front loader. Some
manuracturers use a styrofoam disk just inside the lid to keep the
basket from moving during transport. On your direct drive, about the
only thing that is like a shipping brace are 2 or 3 pins that are
released upon delivery, by pulling a yellow strap on the back of the
machine. The strap pulls out cotter pins, and the shipping pins fall
into a little cup. You can look underneath the washer and see the pins
sitting in their individual cups. With the cotters removed and pins
fallen, your basket should move freely front to back, side to side,
when you grab the agitator and move the basket with it. If a pin
doesn't get released, then it is like a frozen shock absorber in a car
and you will get a lot of vibration and bouncing of the basket during
spin. I doubt that your washer has unreleased pins due to its age.

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