[grodenhiATgmailDOTcom]

I have a sunroom/mudroom in my house that is built on slab that rises
about 6-8 inches above ground. Underneath the doorway going to the
outside there was a plank of wood (then covered with vinyl to match the
siding) that covers the slab under the doorway (kind of like a
faceplate). This piece of wood has somehow become loose where it falls
off periodically. Looking at the plank it looks as though it was
never permanently attached, just sort of wedged in. I'd like to come
up with a more permanent solution. I'm thikning one of two options:

1.) Construction Adheasive (Liquid Nails.. etc). This plank sits under
the lip of the thresold and does not get stepped on. Would this work
for adhearing wood to cement? Would it be a strong bond?

2.) Srewing the board to the slab using masonry screws. Now comes the
dumb question... If I go this route do I simply buy masonry screws and
drive them into the slab just like I would a normal screw into wood, or
do I need to predrill first using a masonry bit? I can take the
vinyl off the plank to do the work (so no screw heads would be
visable).

Is there a better solution than either of these?

[bremen68]

snip
2.) Srewing the board to the slab using masonry screws. Now comes the
dumb question... If I go this route do I simply buy masonry screws and
drive them into the slab just like I would a normal screw into wood, or
do I need to predrill first using a masonry bit? I can take the
vinyl off the plank to do the work (so no screw heads would be
visable).

Is there a better solution than either of these?

I'd go with the masonry screws. You'll want to drill your hole in the
wood with a regular bit, then switch to a masonry bit to pre-drill for
the screws in the cement.

I had a similar problem with a basement door... It hasn't moved since.
I added a bead of clear silicone caulk across the front edge to help
keep water out too...

[Edwin Pawlowski]

"grodenhiATgmailDOTcom" wrote in message

1.) Construction Adheasive (Liquid Nails.. etc). This plank sits under
the lip of the thresold and does not get stepped on. Would this work
for adhearing wood to cement? Would it be a strong bond?

2.) Srewing the board to the slab using masonry screws. Now comes the
dumb question...

I vote for adhesive. The urethane stuff is incredibly strong. Easier than
using any sort of screw or anchor. Worst case scenario is that if it fails,
you can still put the screws in later.

[John Gilmer]

I vote for adhesive. The urethane stuff is incredibly strong. Easier
than
using any sort of screw or anchor. Worst case scenario is that if it
fails,
you can still put the screws in later.

Amen!

Old concrete doesn't want to "drill" right and, often, you end up with
oversized holes. Even if he does drill, the belt and suspenders with the
screws and urethane glue together will keep things in place indefinitely.
That type of glue expands while it cures (and it cures by reacting with the
water in the environment). Thus, it's important to have a good amount of
clamping pressure on the joint.

I had some problems with carpet nail strips on a concrete floor. The
original concrete nails weren't put in right as all the nail did was blast a
crater in the concrete. The glue "fixed" the nail the locked the nail
strip in place.

[grodenhiATgmailDOTcom]

I'm starting to lean more and more towards the glue side of things (at
least for round 1). Hopefully this holds, this board doesn't take any
abuse (it simply is a faceplate below the door threshold facing
outward). There's really no way for me to clamp it though, so my
thought is to lean a heavy patio paver up against it while the glue
cures for 24/48 hours). I'll just have to find a warm day as this is
in New England and nights are now getting into the upper 30's.


John Gilmer wrote:

I vote for adhesive. The urethane stuff is incredibly strong. Easier
than
using any sort of screw or anchor. Worst case scenario is that if it
fails,
you can still put the screws in later.

Amen!

Old concrete doesn't want to "drill" right and, often, you end up with
oversized holes. Even if he does drill, the belt and suspenders with the
screws and urethane glue together will keep things in place indefinitely.
That type of glue expands while it cures (and it cures by reacting with the
water in the environment). Thus, it's important to have a good amount of
clamping pressure on the joint.

I had some problems with carpet nail strips on a concrete floor. The
original concrete nails weren't put in right as all the nail did was blast a
crater in the concrete. The glue "fixed" the nail the locked the nail
strip in place.

[John Gilmer]

There's really no way for me to clamp it though, so my
thought is to lean a heavy patio paver up against it while the glue
cures for 24/48 hours).

Of course! You "clamp" something to the ground with a BRICK!

[[email protected]]

I vote for adhesive. The urethane stuff is incredibly strong. Easier than
using any sort of screw or anchor. Worst case scenario is that if it fails,
you can still put the screws in later.

Alternatively screws give you more options for the future should you
want to change what you have for something else without having to deal
with "unglueing" and breathing the glue while it cures.

Yorick
www.SaferBuilding.com

[grodenhiATgmailDOTcom]

This is not on the ground (or floor) it's basically a faceplace for the
"wall" below the doorway on the outside. Basically the doorway is
about 4-6 inches above ground outside (as the doorway sits on top of
the slab). This covers the exposed slab underneath the doorway
(basically it's siding below the door).


John Gilmer wrote:
There's really no way for me to clamp it though, so my
thought is to lean a heavy patio paver up against it while the glue
cures for 24/48 hours).

Of course! You "clamp" something to the ground with a BRICK!

[John Gilmer]

"grodenhiATgmailDOTcom" wrote in message
ups.com...
This is not on the ground (or floor) it's basically a faceplace for the
"wall" below the doorway on the outside. Basically the doorway is
about 4-6 inches above ground outside (as the doorway sits on top of
the slab). This covers the exposed slab underneath the doorway
(basically it's siding below the door).


John Gilmer wrote:
There's really no way for me to clamp it though, so my
thought is to lean a heavy patio paver up against it while the glue
cures for 24/48 hours).

Of course! You "clamp" something to the ground with a BRICK!

That's a lot more difficult: keeping pressure on verticle surface. I'd
say you are stick with anchors if you want ot be sure. In old concrete you
often end up drilling an oversized hole because of a mix of "hard stuff" and
"soft stuff."