A couple of weeks ago, I asked a question about how to operate a
chalkline in relation to putting new three-tab asphalt shingles on a
shed roof.

Got some great answers and my son and I went to work. Unfortunately, it
was much more work than I anticipated, and being a "40-something" mom
with an 18-year-old not too enthusiastic son as a co-worker, just
getting the bundles of shingles on the roof just about killed both of
us.

So, work has progressed quite slowly. However, the end is in sight. We
are at the top! We measured so as to adjust the last few rows of
shingles so that they end right at the top.

Perfect! Well, maybe not. This is a shed roof, basically a slanted
piece of plywood built on an angle with none of those fancy valleys,
ridges and other parts of a roof that we know nothing about. So, other
than cutting off parts of the three tabs at the end of each row, it has
been pretty simple.

Except, what do we do now. My son pointed out, just as we prepared to
start the last row, that half the shingle will be grey, the bottom half
with the tabs will be white and the "black tarry strip across the
shingle will also be exposed. And where do we nail it?

I did buy a piece of drip edge that will come up over the top of
shingle and I suppose we could nail right at the top, slop roof cement
where the shingle and drip edge will meet and go from there....will
that work.

But, hey, I'm a woman, it is still going to look ugly with the
half-half color and tar at the top, and with using the chalkline and
all throughout, we have otherwise a very "perfect" looking job. Of
course it took us some 12 hours so far for 8 bundles...

Any suggestions?

wrote:
....

Got some great answers and my son and I went to work. Unfortunately, it
was much more work than I anticipated, and being a "40-something" mom
with an 18-year-old not too enthusiastic son as a co-worker, just
getting the bundles of shingles on the roof just about killed both of
us.

So, work has progressed quite slowly. However, the end is in sight. We
are at the top! We measured so as to adjust the last few rows of
shingles so that they end right at the top.

Congrats! Sounds perfect, so far. And whilst the son undoubtedly
complained to high heaven (it's in the job description of teenagers,
after all! ), down the road he'll be bragging and inside right now
he's as full of himself as can be...

....

Except, what do we do now. My son pointed out, just as we prepared to
start the last row, that half the shingle will be grey, the bottom half
with the tabs will be white and the "black tarry strip across the
shingle will also be exposed. And where do we nail it?

I did buy a piece of drip edge that will come up over the top of
shingle and I suppose we could nail right at the top, slop roof cement
where the shingle and drip edge will meet and go from there....will
that work.
....

Drip edge goes at the bottom, not the top, so don't use that here.

If there isn't a ridge vent (that is, if the two pieces of roofing meet
at the roof ridge), then lay the last rows at the peak w/ the proper
setback and, if necessary, trim to the peak.

Then, to finish, take the shingles and, starting at the end of the
house into the prevailing wind, turn them ninety degrees and lay them
over the ridge where there's an equal amount on each side. Use two
nails on each and a dab of roof cement under the top edge of the first
one. When you're done, you'll have a nice, single-color ridge w/ no
tabs showing.

If you will look at some other houses, you should be able to see how
this works.

If, on the other hand, there is/was a roof vent, post back and someone
can lead you through that as well.

Again, sounds like you made a good job of it!

dpb wrote:
wrote:
...

.....

Then, to finish, take the shingles and, starting at the end of the
house into the prevailing wind, ...

Sorry, just realized what I wrote--start at the end away from the
prevailing wind so each course is covering the previous _INTO_ the
wind.

If you're in an area that doesn't have such strong winds routinely as
here, this isn't particularly important, but here we have lots of
(mostly south or southwest) winds for days at a time. So, if start at
the east or north end of a roof, the ridge shingles are then laid
"into" the wind....

wrote in message
ps.com...
A couple of weeks ago, I asked a question about how to operate a
chalkline in relation to putting new three-tab asphalt shingles on a
shed roof.

Got some great answers and my son and I went to work. Unfortunately, it
was much more work than I anticipated, and being a "40-something" mom
with an 18-year-old not too enthusiastic son as a co-worker, just
getting the bundles of shingles on the roof just about killed both of
us.

So, work has progressed quite slowly. However, the end is in sight. We
are at the top! We measured so as to adjust the last few rows of
shingles so that they end right at the top.

Perfect! Well, maybe not. This is a shed roof, basically a slanted
piece of plywood built on an angle with none of those fancy valleys,
ridges and other parts of a roof that we know nothing about. So, other
than cutting off parts of the three tabs at the end of each row, it has
been pretty simple.

Except, what do we do now. My son pointed out, just as we prepared to
start the last row, that half the shingle will be grey, the bottom half
with the tabs will be white and the "black tarry strip across the
shingle will also be exposed. And where do we nail it?

I did buy a piece of drip edge that will come up over the top of
shingle and I suppose we could nail right at the top, slop roof cement
where the shingle and drip edge will meet and go from there....will
that work.

But, hey, I'm a woman, it is still going to look ugly with the
half-half color and tar at the top, and with using the chalkline and
all throughout, we have otherwise a very "perfect" looking job. Of
course it took us some 12 hours so far for 8 bundles...

You cut the tabs off a row of shingles, and nail them up individually.
(Actually, you usually cut the shingles right above the tar line, but
whatever works.) Yes, some spots of roofing cement here and there may be
needed, if a tab lands where there is no sticky spot. You cap the thing off
with premade ridge vent, or cap shingles, or (most people) with a bunch of
shingles cut in thirds, with the tops tapered so the next shingle hides them
At the end, you nail down a cut tab to cover the last light spot, and seal
the nails with some tar, and sprinkle some of the same granules you scraped
off an extra shingle into the tar spots to hide them. (Thy actually sell the
granules at the roofing store for big spots, but most people only need a
tiny bit.)

If none of this makes sense, google for 'basic roofiug', or go find a DIY
book, to see pictures. It ain't hard, just filthy and nasty.

aem sends...

previous posters must have missed that this is a shed roof, no ridge,
so no ridge vent and no ridge cap. go ahead and put drip edge on.
when you get to the top, cut the top of the shingles off and just use
the bottom half with the colored granules on it. if it works out that
you need just, say, and inch of colored shingle, then you will have to
make a judgement call about what looks best; the little strip or a bit
or black showing or an oddball row. nails will have to be exposed when
fastening this last row, but cover the nail heads with a small dab of
roofing cement (available in caulk tubes--one small tube will do it) if
you'd like. (bet you it doesn't leak even if you omit the tar).

all of what has been said is good, unless you used some odd shingles.
if you used random gap shingles, then there is a special not so random
top shingle to lay on the top row. sold seperately of course. glad it
was included with my house kit.

Empressess #124457


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wrote:
wrote in message
ps.com...
A couple of weeks ago, I asked a question about how to operate a
chalkline in relation to putting new three-tab asphalt shingles on a
shed roof.

Got some great answers and my son and I went to work. Unfortunately, it
was much more work than I anticipated, and being a "40-something" mom
with an 18-year-old not too enthusiastic son as a co-worker, just
getting the bundles of shingles on the roof just about killed both of
us.

So, work has progressed quite slowly. However, the end is in sight. We
are at the top! We measured so as to adjust the last few rows of
shingles so that they end right at the top.

Perfect! Well, maybe not. This is a shed roof, basically a slanted
piece of plywood built on an angle with none of those fancy valleys,
ridges and other parts of a roof that we know nothing about. So, other
than cutting off parts of the three tabs at the end of each row, it has
been pretty simple.

Except, what do we do now. My son pointed out, just as we prepared to
start the last row, that half the shingle will be grey, the bottom half
with the tabs will be white and the "black tarry strip across the
shingle will also be exposed. And where do we nail it?

I did buy a piece of drip edge that will come up over the top of
shingle and I suppose we could nail right at the top, slop roof cement
where the shingle and drip edge will meet and go from there....will
that work.

But, hey, I'm a woman, it is still going to look ugly with the
half-half color and tar at the top, and with using the chalkline and
all throughout, we have otherwise a very "perfect" looking job. Of
course it took us some 12 hours so far for 8 bundles...

You cut the tabs off a row of shingles, and nail them up individually.
(Actually, you usually cut the shingles right above the tar line, but
whatever works.) Yes, some spots of roofing cement here and there may be
needed, if a tab lands where there is no sticky spot. You cap the thing off
with premade ridge vent, or cap shingles, or (most people) with a bunch of
shingles cut in thirds, with the tops tapered so the next shingle hides them
At the end, you nail down a cut tab to cover the last light spot, and seal
the nails with some tar, and sprinkle some of the same granules you scraped
off an extra shingle into the tar spots to hide them. (Thy actually sell the
granules at the roofing store for big spots, but most people only need a
tiny bit.)

If none of this makes sense, google for 'basic roofiug', or go find a DIY
book, to see pictures. It ain't hard, just filthy and nasty.

aem sends...

Actually, I think the other replies might be completely confusing
depending on what kind of roof you have.

Do you have sort of the classic american monopoly house "two slanted
pieces meeting in a ridge at the top" roof, a so called "gable roof"?
If so, then listen to the other replies. It just comes down to cutting
a bunch of shingles in thirds, then laying the pieces out like a big
caterpillar right down the ridge so that only the nice part of each
piece is showing. The Very last one you can cut off the ugly part. You
end up with 4 nails showing on that very last piece. This method works
basically the same if you have a ridge vent, too.

Or, do you have a very simple "one slanted piece" kind of roof,
basically just half of a gable roof, which is called a "shed roof"? If
so then the caterpillar trick doesn't work, since there is nothing on
the other side of the peak. In this case, shingle right up to the very
top edge. Hopefully your last row will have the visible ugly part
butting right up against the top edge. Or even better, it will hang
over a bit, and you can trim it so that it fits exactly. Now nail your
piece of drip edge on so that it sits on *top* of that ugly part -- the
rain landing on the drip edge will either fall off the one side of the
roof, or run down on top of the ugly part of the top row of shingles.
Then, cut off the ugly part of an entire row of shingles, so all you
have left is the nice looking tabs. Just nail these across the top edge
of the roof, *over* the drip edge, and preferably hanging over a little
bit off the top edge of the roof, so the entire drip edge is not
visible from above and won't get rained on. These should cover up all
the ugly part that was still visible from the row before. You will end
up with a row or two of exposed nails holding on these last pieces.
Just put a dab of black roof cement on each nail head, and no one will
ever notice.

-Kevin

wrote:
This is a shed roof, basically a slanted
piece of plywood built on an angle with none of those fancy valleys,
ridges and other parts of a roof that we know nothing about. So, other
than cutting off parts of the three tabs at the end of each row, it has
been pretty simple.

Except, what do we do now. My son pointed out, just as we prepared to
start the last row, that half the shingle will be grey, the bottom half
with the tabs will be white and the "black tarry strip across the
shingle will also be exposed. And where do we nail it?

I did buy a piece of drip edge that will come up over the top of
shingle and I suppose we could nail right at the top, slop roof cement
where the shingle and drip edge will meet and go from there....will
that work.

Pehaps I can summarize the other posts and add my bit. You cut the
shingles in half to make the last course. the drip edge you have may
not be useful at this point but you may be able to use a flashing which
is a a simple right angle made of galvanized metal. One edge of the
flashing can cover the edge of the last course. the other edge can
cover the adjacent wall. If there is siding on the adjacent wall then
the flashing would ideally slip underneath that siding. If that is not
possible then you can nail it to the adjacent wall and cover the edge
of the flashing (and nails) with cement. What nails cannot be covered
with flashing can be covered with roofing cement.

Lawrence

wrote:
Hi all, OP again.

Just to clear things up. This is a small free-standing shed. And from
my last post here a few weeks ago, I learned that this type of roof is
called a "shed roof." Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the
poster that told me that....

So, a very simple freestanding structure with a slanted roof. If you
stand at the front of the shed, the roof is probably 14 or so feet
high. If you go to the back, the roof is down to, oh, say, 7 feet high
-- this all being guess.

Anyway. Had three roofers out earlier who all wanted around $700 to
roof this with three-tab....decided could not afford it, but
considering the labor and the aches and pains that son and I had, maybe
that would have been the smarter move....LOL

Anyway, sounds as if I need to do the last "course" as I thought and
then do another course of only three-tab cut-offs and then put the
"drip edge" over the top of that...it's not really a drip edge, I don't
think. It's a three inch, bent in the middle, thing I got at the home
center....Anyway, I think I have some half-baked ideas. We'll try them
out on Saturday.

Of course, if any of you any anything to add, feel free.

Good luck and have fun.

As for the drip edge, just be the rain and wind -- imagine where the
water will go when the wind is blowing (it can go uphill a ways). And
whatever you do will likely be fine, since this is just a shed and
won't be storing valuables.

-Kevin

Just continue up the roof as if it didn't stop and cut off what ever hangs
over the top. I guess your last exposed course will only be tabs, just nail
them so the nails are under your flashing.

Also its easier and neater to nail the last shingles first and then trim.
It will be impossible to measure and cut the tabs first and then try to nail
them straight. Strike a line where the bottom of the last course will go.
Nail them as high as you can and then trim the excess. For extra protection
you can put a dab of roof cement on the nail heads.

Attaching the flashing so it doesn't leak is going to take some thought.
You need to use aluminum nails and attach it without crushing it.



wrote in message
ups.com...

wrote:
Hi all, OP again.

Just to clear things up. This is a small free-standing shed. And from
my last post here a few weeks ago, I learned that this type of roof is
called a "shed roof." Unfortunately, I don't remember the name of the
poster that told me that....

So, a very simple freestanding structure with a slanted roof. If you
stand at the front of the shed, the roof is probably 14 or so feet
high. If you go to the back, the roof is down to, oh, say, 7 feet high
-- this all being guess.

Anyway. Had three roofers out earlier who all wanted around $700 to
roof this with three-tab....decided could not afford it, but
considering the labor and the aches and pains that son and I had, maybe
that would have been the smarter move....LOL

Anyway, sounds as if I need to do the last "course" as I thought and
then do another course of only three-tab cut-offs and then put the
"drip edge" over the top of that...it's not really a drip edge, I don't
think. It's a three inch, bent in the middle, thing I got at the home
center....Anyway, I think I have some half-baked ideas. We'll try them
out on Saturday.

Of course, if any of you any anything to add, feel free.

Cliff Hartle wrote:
Just continue up the roof as if it didn't stop and cut off what ever hangs
over the top. I guess your last exposed course will only be tabs, just nail
them so the nails are under your flashing.

Please, people... she already said this is a "shed roof", and is not
adjacent to a wall. There is no flashing.

I think you are splitting hairs as to the term flashing. You seem to define
flashing as metal used to between a roof and a wall or valley flashing
between roofs.

According to this

http://tinyurl.com/qwmyu

The strip at the top could be considered flashing. What would you call it a
J channel? I have an idea that she most likely was sold a piece of aluminum
fascia. I can't imagine any thing pre made at a home center that would be
any thing else.

I could have told her she needs to bend a piece of coil stock with a brake
to exactly match what is needed, but I didn't what to start throwing around
more terms and confusing the OP more.


"kevin" wrote in message
oups.com...

Cliff Hartle wrote:
Just continue up the roof as if it didn't stop and cut off what ever
hangs
over the top. I guess your last exposed course will only be tabs, just
nail
them so the nails are under your flashing.

Please, people... she already said this is a "shed roof", and is not
adjacent to a wall. There is no flashing.

Cliff Hartle wrote:
I think you are splitting hairs as to the term flashing. You seem to define
flashing as metal used to between a roof and a wall or valley flashing
between roofs.

According to this

http://tinyurl.com/qwmyu

The strip at the top could be considered flashing. What would you call it a
J channel? I have an idea that she most likely was sold a piece of aluminum
fascia. I can't imagine any thing pre made at a home center that would be
any thing else.

I could have told her she needs to bend a piece of coil stock with a brake
to exactly match what is needed, but I didn't what to start throwing around
more terms and confusing the OP more.


The original poster is wholly confused and flustered. LOL.

I have read through the posts and also a couple of e-mails I have
received and I think I have a plan. It may make it an extra layer of
tabs at the top, and it may be a little bit more overlapping than
needed, but it should do the job, I think, and not look too bad, except
the last layer will probably be about two inches further down on top of
the underlayer...does that make sense. In other words, I'll overlap the
next to last row of shingles much more than normal to make it all work
out.

As I mentioned for the $100 more or less that I spent, I almost should
have hired it out. But then we would not have learned so much, got
notes from all you helpful people, built up so much muscle, or even
missed catching a nasty case of poison oak from cutting back the bush
that was bushing against the top of the shed when we went to roof...

Oh, as to the drip edge/flashing....it is an "L" shaped piece of
aluminium that has a special bend on the roof side as well as another
bend on the fascia side to direct water in the appropriate directions.
It comes over about 1.5 inches on to the top of roof. I plan to nail
the last course and put the edge on top of that. Roofing cement will
also come into play, both under the last line of tabs, as well as
between the metal and the three tab.

Finally, I'll use 1/2-inch roofing screws with rubber grommets to
attach the edge to the fascia.

Thanks again all, Tina (who plans on a very celebratory Saturday
afternoon when this is all finished, and hopes not to be out on the
roof in January putting a tarp up if it begins to leak).

Cliff Hartle wrote:
I think you are splitting hairs as to the term flashing.

Sorry, no splitting of hairs meant. Just trying to help clear up
(potential) confusion.

You seem to define
flashing as metal used to between a roof and a wall or valley flashing
between roofs.

According to this

http://tinyurl.com/qwmyu

I should drop this thread.... but the internet seems to make me and
everyone keep responding to the very last to defend their, um, honor or
something. So here goes...

According to that link, almost every definition talks about transitions
between two surfaces, such as roof planes, a roof and a wall, a door
and a wall, a deck and a wall, etc. One or two of the more vague
definitions basically say "flashing is a piece of metal to keep out the
rain".

The strip at the top could be considered flashing. What would you call it a
J channel?

I would call it a drip edge. And so did the OP.

I have an idea that she most likely was sold a piece of aluminum
fascia. I can't imagine any thing pre made at a home center that would be
any thing else.

How about aluminum drip edge? Not fascia. Drip edge.

I could have told her she needs to bend a piece of coil stock with a brake
to exactly match what is needed, but I didn't what to start throwing around
more terms and confusing the OP more.


"kevin" wrote in message
oups.com...

Cliff Hartle wrote:
Just continue up the roof as if it didn't stop and cut off what ever
hangs
over the top. I guess your last exposed course will only be tabs, just
nail
them so the nails are under your flashing.

Please, people... she already said this is a "shed roof", and is not
adjacent to a wall. There is no flashing.