Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Removal and replacement of tub drain
I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek? |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Removal and replacement of tub drain
"handyman" wrote in message oups.com... I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek? did you use plumbers dope between the tub and the drain flange? |
#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Removal and replacement of tub drain
Gary The Happy Pirate wrote: "handyman" wrote in message oups.com... I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek? did you use plumbers dope between the tub and the drain flange? Yes I did. |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Removal and replacement of tub drain
handyman wrote:
Gary The Happy Pirate wrote: "handyman" wrote in message groups.com... I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek? did you use plumbers dope between the tub and the drain flange? Yes I did. There is also a rubber gasket under the tub (hard to replace), between the "shoe" and the tub bottom. Jim |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Removal and replacement of tub drain
In article .com,
says... I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek? My master bath tub has a stopper that won't stay open (hence my interest in this thread). My guess is that mine is a twist type drain plug and someone along the line had some spare parts. I'm thinking about replacing the overflow and drain now since I have the ceiling in the bedroom below open (chasing a leak, not yet found). Anyway, reading this thread I was wondering how it all goes together or more importantly, comes apart. Searching the net I found this that may be of interest (leaking gasket): http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...drain2/replace. htm It seems it is possible to overtightened the gasket, squeezing it out. -- Keith |
#7
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Removal and replacement of tub drain
handyman wrote:
Keith Williams wrote: In article .com, says... I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek? My master bath tub has a stopper that won't stay open (hence my interest in this thread). My guess is that mine is a twist type drain plug and someone along the line had some spare parts. I'm thinking about replacing the overflow and drain now since I have the ceiling in the bedroom below open (chasing a leak, not yet found). Anyway, reading this thread I was wondering how it all goes together or more importantly, comes apart. Searching the net I found this that may be of interest (leaking gasket): http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...drain2/replace. htm It seems it is possible to overtightened the gasket, squeezing it out. -- Keith KEith, I have a leek as well, and I am being told it is going to cost$550. to fix it and I will have a 36inch hole in my ceiling under the tub, it is up stairs over my den. I think the 36 inch holes is bull and I also think I am getting ripped off on the price. I am a painter and handyman and can fix the hole but think a 24 inch at most will work. If it *is* the gasket and nothing more tragic, it is (barely) possible to replace it from above. Unscrew the drain flange. Use a thin wire hook of some sort to reach thru the opening and between the tub "shoe" and tub bottom to grab the old gasket. Pull it up thru the opening. Coat the new gasket with sealant (silicone caulk works well). Slide the gasket thru the opening and guide it between the shoe and tub bottom. Coat the flange of the drain fitting with plumbers putty (you could use caulk here too) and screw it into the shoe. It doesn't need to be overtight as this could squeeze the gasket out. This works *most* of the time. If it doesn't, you're not out a dime and you can chop the hole in the ceiling. Jim |
#8
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Removal and replacement of tub drain
Speedy Jim wrote: handyman wrote: Keith Williams wrote: In article .com, says... I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek? My master bath tub has a stopper that won't stay open (hence my interest in this thread). My guess is that mine is a twist type drain plug and someone along the line had some spare parts. I'm thinking about replacing the overflow and drain now since I have the ceiling in the bedroom below open (chasing a leak, not yet found). Anyway, reading this thread I was wondering how it all goes together or more importantly, comes apart. Searching the net I found this that may be of interest (leaking gasket): http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...drain2/replace. htm It seems it is possible to overtightened the gasket, squeezing it out. -- Keith KEith, I have a leek as well, and I am being told it is going to cost$550. to fix it and I will have a 36inch hole in my ceiling under the tub, it is up stairs over my den. I think the 36 inch holes is bull and I also think I am getting ripped off on the price. I am a painter and handyman and can fix the hole but think a 24 inch at most will work. If it *is* the gasket and nothing more tragic, it is (barely) possible to replace it from above. Unscrew the drain flange. Use a thin wire hook of some sort to reach thru the opening and between the tub "shoe" and tub bottom to grab the old gasket. Pull it up thru the opening. Coat the new gasket with sealant (silicone caulk works well). Slide the gasket thru the opening and guide it between the shoe and tub bottom. Coat the flange of the drain fitting with plumbers putty (you could use caulk here too) and screw it into the shoe. It doesn't need to be overtight as this could squeeze the gasket out. This works *most* of the time. If it doesn't, you're not out a dime and you can chop the hole in the ceiling. Jim Thanks, I will give a try. Like you said, beats cutting the hole. I ewill let you know how it turns out. |
#9
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Removal and replacement of tub drain
In article .com,
says... Keith Williams wrote: In article .com, says... I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek? My master bath tub has a stopper that won't stay open (hence my interest in this thread). My guess is that mine is a twist type drain plug and someone along the line had some spare parts. I'm thinking about replacing the overflow and drain now since I have the ceiling in the bedroom below open (chasing a leak, not yet found). Anyway, reading this thread I was wondering how it all goes together or more importantly, comes apart. Searching the net I found this that may be of interest (leaking gasket): http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...drain2/replace. htm It seems it is possible to overtightened the gasket, squeezing it out. -- Keith KEith, I have a leek as well, and I am being told it is going to cost$550. to fix it and I will have a 36inch hole in my ceiling under the tub, it is up stairs over my den. I think the 36 inch holes is bull and I also think I am getting ripped off on the price. I am a painter and handyman and can fix the hole but think a 24 inch at most will work. My leak isn't in the drain. It's coming from somewhere above the rim of the tub. I can see it dripping off the tub edge, under the mixing valve. I can't tell if it's a grout/calk failure or a leak after the mixing valve/diverter. In any case the sheetrock was wet and had to come out. I tore it out spanning two joists (32") and about square to make sure I got all the bad sheetrock out. I'm thinking about replacing the drain/overflow while I'm in there because the stopper won't stay open. I've owned the house for 13 years and we've used up a few paint stirrers in the mean time. ;-) I had to cut a couple of holes in the ceiling in the bathroom across the hall, so I'll have some fun patching holes. If I had half a brain I'd gut the whole bathroom and the bedroom ceiling and pay someone to do the mud. -- Keith |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Who is responsible for tree trim and removal? | Home Repair | |||
Broken Soap Dish and Tile Removal and Replacement | Home Repair | |||
Removal & Replacement of Tile Floor | Home Repair | |||
Diverter valve replacement - spigot removal? | Home Repair | |||
Furnace replacement - asbestos? | Home Repair |