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Default Removal and replacement of tub drain

I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek?

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Default Removal and replacement of tub drain


"handyman" wrote in message
oups.com...
I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek?

did you use plumbers dope between the tub and the drain flange?


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Default Removal and replacement of tub drain


Gary The Happy Pirate wrote:
"handyman" wrote in message
oups.com...
I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek?

did you use plumbers dope between the tub and the drain flange?


Yes I did.

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Default Removal and replacement of tub drain

handyman wrote:
Gary The Happy Pirate wrote:

"handyman" wrote in message
groups.com...

I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek?


did you use plumbers dope between the tub and the drain flange?



Yes I did.


There is also a rubber gasket under the tub (hard to replace),
between the "shoe" and the tub bottom.

Jim
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Default Removal and replacement of tub drain


Keith Williams wrote:
In article .com,
says...
I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek?

My master bath tub has a stopper that won't stay open (hence my
interest in this thread). My guess is that mine is a twist type
drain plug and someone along the line had some spare parts. I'm
thinking about replacing the overflow and drain now since I have
the ceiling in the bedroom below open (chasing a leak, not yet
found). Anyway, reading this thread I was wondering how it all
goes together or more importantly, comes apart. Searching the net
I found this that may be of interest (leaking gasket):

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...drain2/replace.
htm

It seems it is possible to overtightened the gasket, squeezing it
out.

--
Keith

KEith, I have a leek as well, and I am being told it is going to
cost$550. to fix it and I will have a 36inch hole in my ceiling under
the tub, it is up stairs over my den. I think the 36 inch holes is bull
and I also think I am getting ripped off on the price. I am a painter
and handyman and can fix the hole but think a 24 inch at most will
work.

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Default Removal and replacement of tub drain

handyman wrote:

Keith Williams wrote:

In article .com,
says...

I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek?


My master bath tub has a stopper that won't stay open (hence my
interest in this thread). My guess is that mine is a twist type
drain plug and someone along the line had some spare parts. I'm
thinking about replacing the overflow and drain now since I have
the ceiling in the bedroom below open (chasing a leak, not yet
found). Anyway, reading this thread I was wondering how it all
goes together or more importantly, comes apart. Searching the net
I found this that may be of interest (leaking gasket):

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...drain2/replace.
htm

It seems it is possible to overtightened the gasket, squeezing it
out.

--
Keith


KEith, I have a leek as well, and I am being told it is going to
cost$550. to fix it and I will have a 36inch hole in my ceiling under
the tub, it is up stairs over my den. I think the 36 inch holes is bull
and I also think I am getting ripped off on the price. I am a painter
and handyman and can fix the hole but think a 24 inch at most will
work.


If it *is* the gasket and nothing more tragic,
it is (barely) possible to replace it from above.

Unscrew the drain flange.
Use a thin wire hook of some sort to reach thru
the opening and between the tub "shoe" and
tub bottom to grab the old gasket. Pull it up
thru the opening.

Coat the new gasket with sealant (silicone caulk
works well). Slide the gasket thru the opening
and guide it between the shoe and tub bottom.

Coat the flange of the drain fitting with
plumbers putty (you could use caulk here too)
and screw it into the shoe. It doesn't need
to be overtight as this could squeeze the
gasket out.

This works *most* of the time. If it doesn't,
you're not out a dime and you can chop the
hole in the ceiling.

Jim
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Default Removal and replacement of tub drain


Speedy Jim wrote:
handyman wrote:

Keith Williams wrote:

In article .com,
says...

I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek?


My master bath tub has a stopper that won't stay open (hence my
interest in this thread). My guess is that mine is a twist type
drain plug and someone along the line had some spare parts. I'm
thinking about replacing the overflow and drain now since I have
the ceiling in the bedroom below open (chasing a leak, not yet
found). Anyway, reading this thread I was wondering how it all
goes together or more importantly, comes apart. Searching the net
I found this that may be of interest (leaking gasket):

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...drain2/replace.
htm

It seems it is possible to overtightened the gasket, squeezing it
out.

--
Keith


KEith, I have a leek as well, and I am being told it is going to
cost$550. to fix it and I will have a 36inch hole in my ceiling under
the tub, it is up stairs over my den. I think the 36 inch holes is bull
and I also think I am getting ripped off on the price. I am a painter
and handyman and can fix the hole but think a 24 inch at most will
work.


If it *is* the gasket and nothing more tragic,
it is (barely) possible to replace it from above.

Unscrew the drain flange.
Use a thin wire hook of some sort to reach thru
the opening and between the tub "shoe" and
tub bottom to grab the old gasket. Pull it up
thru the opening.

Coat the new gasket with sealant (silicone caulk
works well). Slide the gasket thru the opening
and guide it between the shoe and tub bottom.

Coat the flange of the drain fitting with
plumbers putty (you could use caulk here too)
and screw it into the shoe. It doesn't need
to be overtight as this could squeeze the
gasket out.

This works *most* of the time. If it doesn't,
you're not out a dime and you can chop the
hole in the ceiling.

Jim


Thanks, I will give a try. Like you said, beats cutting the hole. I
ewill let you know how it turns out.

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Default Removal and replacement of tub drain

In article .com,
says...

Keith Williams wrote:
In article .com,
says...
I removed my old tub drain, and replaced it with a new one, could I
have over tightened the new one to the point that I now have a leek?

My master bath tub has a stopper that won't stay open (hence my
interest in this thread). My guess is that mine is a twist type
drain plug and someone along the line had some spare parts. I'm
thinking about replacing the overflow and drain now since I have
the ceiling in the bedroom below open (chasing a leak, not yet
found). Anyway, reading this thread I was wondering how it all
goes together or more importantly, comes apart. Searching the net
I found this that may be of interest (leaking gasket):

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...drain2/replace.
htm

It seems it is possible to overtightened the gasket, squeezing it
out.

--
Keith

KEith, I have a leek as well, and I am being told it is going to
cost$550. to fix it and I will have a 36inch hole in my ceiling under
the tub, it is up stairs over my den. I think the 36 inch holes is bull
and I also think I am getting ripped off on the price. I am a painter
and handyman and can fix the hole but think a 24 inch at most will
work.


My leak isn't in the drain. It's coming from somewhere above the
rim of the tub. I can see it dripping off the tub edge, under the
mixing valve. I can't tell if it's a grout/calk failure or a leak
after the mixing valve/diverter. In any case the sheetrock was wet
and had to come out. I tore it out spanning two joists (32") and
about square to make sure I got all the bad sheetrock out.

I'm thinking about replacing the drain/overflow while I'm in there
because the stopper won't stay open. I've owned the house for 13
years and we've used up a few paint stirrers in the mean time. ;-)

I had to cut a couple of holes in the ceiling in the bathroom
across the hall, so I'll have some fun patching holes. If I had
half a brain I'd gut the whole bathroom and the bedroom ceiling and
pay someone to do the mud.

--
Keith
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