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Repairing a rusted swamp cooler



 
 
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  #1  
Old June 23rd 06, 04:18 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Repairing a rusted swamp cooler

I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames. I'm going
to try to get a few more years out of it. Any suggestions on what to do with
the pan?

Al


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  #2  
Old June 23rd 06, 06:02 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Repairing a rusted swamp cooler

i actually don't know anything about this item, they are not generally
used in apartments buffalo ny, but: these thoughts: depending on your
climate and construction of course:
set up a drip collector pan with a drain outside the unit in the event
of a leak to avoid future water damage. like a hot water heater plastic
pan or washing machine plastic pan. find a plastic window box or
planter for inside it? inside it maybe spray some convert spray that is
used on rust, read all of its requirements for use, to give you a
starting place. if the metal pan is removable maybe a sheet metal shop
or auto body shop can patch it or replate it.
can the new self adhesive roofing membrane be used inside the pan
somehow? [i need to lern more about that too!] -bill

Big Al wrote:
I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames. I'm going
to try to get a few more years out of it. Any suggestions on what to do with
the pan?

Al


  #3  
Old June 23rd 06, 09:25 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Repairing a rusted swamp cooler


"Big Al" wrote in message
...
I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames. I'm going
to try to get a few more years out of it. Any suggestions on what to do
with
the pan?


At least put an anode in there to help slow it down. They are available for
around seven bucks from any cooler supplier.

Steve

Al




  #4  
Old June 23rd 06, 09:19 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Repairing a rusted swamp cooler

Is the container in good shape everywhere except in the bottom pan?
Have you considered using something like pop-rivets for a repair?
Cut the pan off, make a replacement pan, attach with pop-rivets to the
existing framework.
Do it this fall after the cooler is no longer in service.

Steve B wrote:
"Big Al" wrote in message
...
I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames.


  #5  
Old June 23rd 06, 09:48 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Repairing a rusted swamp cooler

The cooler on my mother's house in AZ had the same problem. I advised
her to have her handyman dry it, wire brush/scotchbright it to remove
loose rust and paint, spray it with rust converter to inhibit further
rusting, and then line the entire inside of the pan with fiberglass
mat soaked in resin. There were some smaller rust spots on one of the
panels, and he used the same approach but with spot putty. After he
did all that he repainted it.

On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 19:18:11 -0700, "Big Al" wrote:

I have an 8,500 CFM side draft swamp cooler that is rusting out. The bottom
pan has a few rust holes through the sides under the pad frames. I'm going
to try to get a few more years out of it. Any suggestions on what to do with
the pan?

Al



'Hell' is a relative term

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  #6  
Old June 26th 06, 01:49 AM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Repairing a rusted swamp cooler


wrote in message
...
The cooler on my mother's house in AZ had the same problem. I advised
her to have her handyman dry it, wire brush/scotchbright it to remove
loose rust and paint, spray it with rust converter to inhibit further
rusting, and then line the entire inside of the pan with fiberglass
mat soaked in resin. There were some smaller rust spots on one of the
panels, and he used the same approach but with spot putty. After he
did all that he repainted it.


I did the fiberglass repair to a cooler about 10 years ago. Water from the
pad frames got under the fiberglass and made the problem worse. The lower
edge of the pad frames fit on the upper lip of the pan. If I try to bring
the mat up to the edge the frames will not fit. If I leave the mat 1/4 inch
under the lip of the pan water gets under it. I'm going to try the rust
converter, if I can find it. Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace all have it but only
in aerosol cans. Would be a lot better if I could brush it on. Then I may
try some kind of roof coating with membrane. Or ??? That stuff they sell to
coat coolers, think it's called "Submarine Coat" is a disappointment too.

Thanks for the replies,

Al


  #7  
Old June 26th 06, 03:49 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Repairing a rusted swamp cooler

Al,

As far as I know the converter only comes in aerosol form. Strange
stuff, but it works. Rather than elastomerized roof coating, I'd use
an epoxy based sealer and/or paint. I think most marine sealants are
epoxy based, not sure about the cooler coatings. Be aware that epoxy
is nearly indestructible, meaning overspray from epoxy-based paint is
there to stay.

Perhaps you could also just use the present pan as a form for a
fiberglass mat replacement, covering it with waxed paper to prevent
adhesion, or perhaps fabricate a new pan from some combination of
sheet metal, rigid plastic, etc. and fiberglass.


On Sun, 25 Jun 2006 16:49:08 -0700, "Big Al" wrote:

I did the fiberglass repair to a cooler about 10 years ago. Water from the
pad frames got under the fiberglass and made the problem worse. The lower
edge of the pad frames fit on the upper lip of the pan. If I try to bring
the mat up to the edge the frames will not fit. If I leave the mat 1/4 inch
under the lip of the pan water gets under it. I'm going to try the rust
converter, if I can find it. Home Depot, Lowe's and Ace all have it but only
in aerosol cans. Would be a lot better if I could brush it on. Then I may
try some kind of roof coating with membrane. Or ??? That stuff they sell to
coat coolers, think it's called "Submarine Coat" is a disappointment too.

Thanks for the replies,

Al



'Hell' is a relative term

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

  #10  
Old June 28th 06, 05:19 PM posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Repairing a rusted swamp cooler


Big Al wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message

....
... use one that indicates it is a tannic acid (rather than
phosphoric acid).


Phosphoric acid?? That's used in rust removers like Naval Jelly, right? That
would eat up the rest of the cooler

....

I didn't say _use_ phosphoric acid, I said some rust converters contain
phosphoric acid as an ingredient. The phosphoric acid reacts with iron
and rust (iron oxide) to form a phosphate coating--a corrosion
retarder. In my experience, they're not as effective as the tannic
acid formulations in which the tannic acid reacts with the iron oxide
to convert it to iron tannate (with the blue/black-looking end result).

I don't recall a particular one at the moment but I did run into a case
a number of years ago where a converter didn't last long after use and
did some digging into it. The above is what I found then.

HTH...

 




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