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Default Goulds Irrigation pump Not Working HELP

This GT 10 Goulds Irri-gator pump which is 2 1/2 years old recently
blow the pipe work out the top of the pump.
We called the guy that installed the pump, and a week later all the
pipe work was replaced. He also relocated the pressure tank to sit
directly above the pump in a vertical position, he had originally
located it above the pump running horizontal to the pump.

Glad to get some water for the lawn and plants we immediately turned on
the sprinkler system manually. We noticed that the pump was on all the
time while the sprinklers were
running, prior to the repair the pump used to cut on and off. Once we
turned the sprinklers off the pump continued to run and run and
wouldn't shut off, so we turned the pump off at Breaker.

Oh Know it was Friday at 4.50pm on memorial weekend not much hope of
catching the pump guy, but tried his cell phone, got voicemail
instantly.

Didn't want to wait till Tuesday, if we were lucky to get him back
out by then, so I remembered that the pump had done this before when he
first installed it and that he adjusted something next to the pump. Saw
this black box attached to the pump and unscrewed the lid, read the
instructions inside the lid about winding down the nut to adjust the
cut on and off at a higher pressure. We adjusted the nut up rather than
down as winding down made the pump run on longer than before. After
several turns of winding the nut up we finally got the pump to shut off
after 2 seconds of stopping the sprinkler system.

Now what about the reason why the pump continues to run while the
system is on, should we leave it now and wait for the pump guy to
explain why it has changed or should we
Fiddle some more. My husband decides to adjust nut # 2 labeled turn
down for higher
Cut off pressure only. No sooner does his wrench turn the nut than the
terminal shorts out
Due to the wrench touching the contacts to the wires, circuit breaker
trips !!!!!!!!.

We set the breaker back to on, turn on sprinklers, nothing........motor
not coming on at all. We switch the breaker on and off several times
still nothing. Motor totally lifeless.
Spend the evening doing research on the web and decide we must have
fried the breaker.
Next morning we swap 20amp beaker with another 20amp breaker, still
doesn't work and the pump breaker which we thought was no good is now
running the other equipment we swapped it with fine, so breaker must be
OK.
Used an electrical testing screw driver to check that hot wire is
getting a feed, power at breaker , power to control box, and power on
wires going into pump.
Open back end of pump to look at wires on motor, everything looks good,
we did spot a black plastic cylinder shape thing which we have now
learnt is the starter capacitor, so maybe that went bad with the short
? ???????

In the control box the contacts which join the incoming wires from the
breaker and the out going wires to the pump and permanently closed
together, maybe we fried the control box.

Can not see how the one second short would cause the motor itself to
burn out, could anyone help suggest why the pump won't start up.

And should the pump cut in and out when running or be permanently on.
By the way the pressure tank gauge reads 50lbs when not in use and goes
up to 55lbs when it was running.

Thanks for any help you can give us, we need to fix this before the
pump guy gets back to us and tells us we need a new pump because his
doesn't want the bother of looking as deep as we are. He was already
cross that we had called his cell phone when the pump first went down
and not his home answer machine. It's hard at the moment in Florida
to get irrigation guys out as it's so dry done here they are all so
busy.

This is our first posting on this site, sorry if we have gone on a bit.

Julea & Alan Field

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Default Goulds Irrigation pump Not Working HELP

wrote:
This GT 10 Goulds Irri-gator pump which is 2 1/2 years old recently
blow the pipe work out the top of the pump.
We called the guy that installed the pump, and a week later all the
pipe work was replaced. He also relocated the pressure tank to sit
directly above the pump in a vertical position, he had originally
located it above the pump running horizontal to the pump.

Glad to get some water for the lawn and plants we immediately turned on
the sprinkler system manually. We noticed that the pump was on all the
time while the sprinklers were
running, prior to the repair the pump used to cut on and off. Once we
turned the sprinklers off the pump continued to run and run and
wouldn't shut off, so we turned the pump off at Breaker.

Oh Know it was Friday at 4.50pm on memorial weekend not much hope of
catching the pump guy, but tried his cell phone, got voicemail
instantly.

Didn't want to wait till Tuesday, if we were lucky to get him back
out by then, so I remembered that the pump had done this before when he
first installed it and that he adjusted something next to the pump. Saw
this black box attached to the pump and unscrewed the lid, read the
instructions inside the lid about winding down the nut to adjust the
cut on and off at a higher pressure. We adjusted the nut up rather than
down as winding down made the pump run on longer than before. After
several turns of winding the nut up we finally got the pump to shut off
after 2 seconds of stopping the sprinkler system.

Now what about the reason why the pump continues to run while the
system is on, should we leave it now and wait for the pump guy to
explain why it has changed or should we
Fiddle some more. My husband decides to adjust nut # 2 labeled turn
down for higher
Cut off pressure only. No sooner does his wrench turn the nut than the
terminal shorts out
Due to the wrench touching the contacts to the wires, circuit breaker
trips !!!!!!!!.

We set the breaker back to on, turn on sprinklers, nothing........motor
not coming on at all. We switch the breaker on and off several times
still nothing. Motor totally lifeless.
Spend the evening doing research on the web and decide we must have
fried the breaker.
Next morning we swap 20amp beaker with another 20amp breaker, still
doesn't work and the pump breaker which we thought was no good is now
running the other equipment we swapped it with fine, so breaker must be
OK.
Used an electrical testing screw driver to check that hot wire is
getting a feed, power at breaker , power to control box, and power on
wires going into pump.
Open back end of pump to look at wires on motor, everything looks good,
we did spot a black plastic cylinder shape thing which we have now
learnt is the starter capacitor, so maybe that went bad with the short
? ???????

In the control box the contacts which join the incoming wires from the
breaker and the out going wires to the pump and permanently closed
together, maybe we fried the control box.

Can not see how the one second short would cause the motor itself to
burn out, could anyone help suggest why the pump won't start up.

And should the pump cut in and out when running or be permanently on.
By the way the pressure tank gauge reads 50lbs when not in use and goes
up to 55lbs when it was running.

Thanks for any help you can give us, we need to fix this before the
pump guy gets back to us and tells us we need a new pump because his
doesn't want the bother of looking as deep as we are. He was already
cross that we had called his cell phone when the pump first went down
and not his home answer machine. It's hard at the moment in Florida
to get irrigation guys out as it's so dry done here they are all so
busy.

This is our first posting on this site, sorry if we have gone on a bit.

Julea & Alan Field

Welcome -
First off, it is usefull here, when you get advice and questions to
respond back with answers, comments and praise. The folks here are
responding because they home that someday they will have a question and
need some help with something.

Second - I am no pump expert but do have a little experience that may
help you. Take all advice here with a grain of salt and use some common
sense.

OK - Now to your issue. Its a two part issue.
First - Why is your pump running all the time when it wasn't before.
This is usually caused by either a defective tank (Bad bladder) or a
waterlogged tank. The tank has about 1/2 air and 1/2 water in it. You
will see a bycycle type fitting on the tank to add air to it. You could
try that. Don't mess with the pressure switch anymore. i think your
hubby tweaked it properly the first time (The pump guy should have done
that as a matter of course). Regardless you constant pump running
problem is that the tank is not doing its job for some reason.

Second - you pump will not run now. You have checked that its getting
electricity. Thats good. You have power to the pump so its not something
like a tripped GFCI between your breaker and the pump. Some pumps have a
little teensey weensey little re-set switch on them Sort of like a mini
breaker. look for a little black button. It should have a label that
says reset. The label may be gone, look for the button anyway and press
it. if it comes back to life all is good. If no button or pressing it
doesn't fix the problem I would say something may be fried. does the
pump make any noise? or is it completely dead. By your description I'm
reading I would say completely dead. if its making noise it could be
stuck or need priming. Report back.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

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