My below-grade basement cinderblock wall had 4x8 sheets of grooved
paneling on it which we had painted white. The paneling was nailed to
1x2 furring strips. But water got in months ago and I finally torn the
old paneling down. The mold, rot, and stench was far worse than I
expected. I found the above-ground source of water and fixed that
problem.

I will "paint" the wall with 2 coats of Dry Lok to keep future moisture
out. 2 questions...

--If I choose to take the entire room down and install drywall instead
of just replacing the sections of paneling, can I put DW over new 1x2
furring strips on cinder block? Are there drywall screws that short???

--If I'm concerned about moisture and use Dry Lok, how should I hang
the 1x2s? Won't cement nails break the Dry Lok barrier? Should I use
construction adhesive instead?

Thanks!!!!!!

JB

On 7 Apr 2006 07:15:32 -0700, wrote:

My below-grade basement cinderblock wall had 4x8 sheets of grooved
paneling on it which we had painted white. The paneling was nailed to
1x2 furring strips. But water got in months ago and I finally torn the
old paneling down. The mold, rot, and stench was far worse than I
expected. I found the above-ground source of water and fixed that
problem.

I will "paint" the wall with 2 coats of Dry Lok to keep future moisture
out. 2 questions...

--If I choose to take the entire room down and install drywall instead
of just replacing the sections of paneling, can I put DW over new 1x2
furring strips on cinder block? Are there drywall screws that short???

--If I'm concerned about moisture and use Dry Lok, how should I hang
the 1x2s? Won't cement nails break the Dry Lok barrier? Should I use
construction adhesive instead?

Thanks!!!!!!

I'd be tempted to glue 1/2" foam to the cinderblock, and drywall to
the foam, and skip the furring strips entirely. Or, if you're
not running wiring and you're not insulating, why not just
parge the block, and not cover it with anything?

Drylok wont stop all mosture from coming in.
If there is enough pressure coming in the paint will
simply lift and flake off.

I would recommend as much space as possible
from the wall. Then you can install mosture resistant
drywall and maybe some isulation. I would not want
to enclose ANYTHING onto a cememt wall.

most people would use 2" x 2" in order to allow for electrical boxes and
insulation etc.


wrote in message
ups.com...
My below-grade basement cinderblock wall had 4x8 sheets of grooved
paneling on it which we had painted white. The paneling was nailed to
1x2 furring strips. But water got in months ago and I finally torn the
old paneling down. The mold, rot, and stench was far worse than I
expected. I found the above-ground source of water and fixed that
problem.

I will "paint" the wall with 2 coats of Dry Lok to keep future moisture
out. 2 questions...

--If I choose to take the entire room down and install drywall instead
of just replacing the sections of paneling, can I put DW over new 1x2
furring strips on cinder block? Are there drywall screws that short???

--If I'm concerned about moisture and use Dry Lok, how should I hang
the 1x2s? Won't cement nails break the Dry Lok barrier? Should I use
construction adhesive instead?

Thanks!!!!!!

JB

Unless you're in a really dry climate, an uninsulated and unsealed wall
will begin rotting immediately. Someday someone will have to rip it
all out and start over again.

Frame it with 2x4s. Insulate with R13 batts. Vapor barrier on the
room side of the studs. Then drywall. That's probably required by
code anyways.

Also, it's a good opportunity to seal the slab to wall joint before
applying the dryloc.

-rev