I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF Grand
Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several questions:

I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and rakes
of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this starter course
should be a 3-tab type shingle. Why is this ??

I don't see a 3-tab shingle at the GAF website that comes in the same color
as the architectural shingle that I would like to buy. (I guess it
doesn't matter much if the starter rows would all be covered up anyhow ??)

I have thought of using the rubberized WeatherGuard instead of felt. Is
this better than paper felt? Although I think it would be quite expensive
for a house, just 1 roll would do for my shed.

Should I order 1 1/2 nails for these architectural (50 yr) shingles
??


What size nails would I get to lay down the WeatherGuard ?? Would it be
the same type nail as the nails for the shingles ??

Thank you very much !!

--James--

James wrote:
I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF Grand
Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several questions:

I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and rakes
of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this starter course
should be a 3-tab type shingle. Why is this ??

I don't see a 3-tab shingle at the GAF website that comes in the same color
as the architectural shingle that I would like to buy. (I guess it
doesn't matter much if the starter rows would all be covered up anyhow ??)

I am thinking of using another brand, and they also say use 3-tab on
the start, but since it is covered, as you say, you could use any
color.

Here's their installation instructions if you care.

http://www.malarkeyroofing.com/PDFFi...uct%200205.pdf

For a small shed, though, I really think you are doing overkill with a
50-year singe and then using weathershield....of course it's your $$$.
I just roll roof my shed.

James wrote:

I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF Grand
Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several questions:

I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and rakes
of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this starter course
should be a 3-tab type shingle. Why is this ??

Most manufacturers recommend a running a starter at the eaves and the
rakes though I would venture to guess 90% of the roofs installed today
only use starter at the eaves. Its your call.

The best practice is to use a three tab shingle for the starter after
having cut the tabs off. This allows you to slide the shingle down to
the edge of the eave getting the glue strip very close to the edge of
the roof. Many roofers simply flip a three tab shingle upside down for
the starter. This puts the starter glue strip 5" up from the eave. When
you cut the tabs off you have a very secure double glue strip at the
eave giving you the best defense against wind.


I don't see a 3-tab shingle at the GAF website that comes in the same color
as the architectural shingle that I would like to buy. (I guess it
doesn't matter much if the starter rows would all be covered up anyhow ??)

You are right, the starter will be covered so any color would do however
you usually use a color close to the shingle color. Many architectural
shingles use three tabs for hip and ridge so this is what is used for
starter. If your shingles dont come in a three tab just pick a similar
color, or black, for the starter.

I have thought of using the rubberized WeatherGuard instead of felt. Is
this better than paper felt? Although I think it would be quite expensive
for a house, just 1 roll would do for my shed.


It is not needed unless the shed is very low pitch ( 4/12). It doesnt
make any sense to use it over felt especially if the shed is not heated.
Dont waste your money.

Should I order 1 1/2 nails for these architectural (50 yr) shingles
??


1 1/4" nails would be fine if its laid directly on the sheathing.

What size nails would I get to lay down the WeatherGuard ?? Would it be
the same type nail as the nails for the shingles ??

None, the weatherguard is not necessary. #15 felt and staples will do
you fine.


Thank you very much !!

--James--



Mark

"James" wrote in message
...


I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF Grand
Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several questions:

I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and rakes
of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this starter
course
should be a 3-tab type shingle. Why is this ??

I don't see a 3-tab shingle at the GAF website that comes in the same
color
as the architectural shingle that I would like to buy. (I guess it
doesn't matter much if the starter rows would all be covered up anyhow ??)

I have thought of using the rubberized WeatherGuard instead of felt. Is
this better than paper felt? Although I think it would be quite expensive
for a house, just 1 roll would do for my shed.

Should I order 1 1/2 nails for these architectural (50 yr) shingles
??


What size nails would I get to lay down the WeatherGuard ?? Would it be
the same type nail as the nails for the shingles ??

Thank you very much !!

--James--



A 3 tab shingle will expose the felt where the 3 small cut-outs are in the
shingles, thus the need for a starter course. Get a flat shingle otherwise
the first course will not lay right. Starter course color doesn't matter
since it is almost 100% covered. Shop the other manufacturers for a color
match since you will want flat shingles on the ridge.

Felt is fine for a shed.

Roofing nails 1 1/2" are OK. The nails with the orange plastic caps are for
putting down the felt. Use plenty of nails on the felt on a steep pitch.

Steve.

James wrote:
I have thought of using the rubberized WeatherGuard instead of felt. Is
this better than paper felt? Although I think it would be quite expensive
for a house, just 1 roll would do for my shed.

If the additonal expense doesn't bother you then I say go ahead.

What size nails would I get to lay down the WeatherGuard ?? Would it be
the same type nail as the nails for the shingles ??

That stuff is self- adhesive and requires no nails. You just peel off
the backing and it sticks to the deck like glue. This is one of the
big advantages of the material.

The many answers have been SO helpful , and directly answer my questions.
I have printed all of the replies and will keep them for my notes.

I guess the 50 yr shingle and using WeatherGuard is indeed overkill. But,
I have had this shed for 20 yrs , and it looks nearly as good as the day I
had it built. I plan to live another 39 years, so I just want to keep it in
# 1 shape. The cost difference for the entire roof would likely be less
than $100.

Thanks again for the real nice replies, and I welcome any other comments !!!

--James--

James wrote:
I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF Grand
Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several questions:

I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and rakes
of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this starter course
should be a 3-tab type shingle. Why is this ??

Good question. That's a dated method. Most manufacturer's make a roll
of starter strip that is around 35' long. There's no need to cut off
the tabs and throw material away and there's no gap along the roof
edge.

GAF is one of the few that doesn't appear to sell the stuff in rolls.
Instead they have individual starter shingles:
http://www.gaf.com/Content/Documents/20214.pdf

I would go with the roll starter strip, even if it means getting
another manufacturer's product, as it's faster and there is _no_
advantage in having seams where you don't need or want them.

I don't see a 3-tab shingle at the GAF website that comes in the same color
as the architectural shingle that I would like to buy. (I guess it
doesn't matter much if the starter rows would all be covered up anyhow ??)

All covered up, no problem with color.

I have thought of using the rubberized WeatherGuard instead of felt. Is
this better than paper felt? Although I think it would be quite expensive
for a house, just 1 roll would do for my shed.

Probably not necessary unless it's a very low pitched roof.

Should I order 1 1/2 nails for these architectural (50 yr) shingles?

1 1/2" is pretty standard if you have plywood sheathing. The tip of
the nail should penetrate the sheathing completely and project about
3/8" on the underside.

What size nails would I get to lay down the WeatherGuard ?? Would it be
the same type nail as the nails for the shingles ??

Staples, or you can use the same nails. No need to complicate matters
with different size nails - not much difference.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in
oups.com:


James wrote:
I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF
Grand Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several
questions:

I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and
rakes of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this
starter course should be a 3-tab type shingle. Why is this ??

Good question. That's a dated method. Most manufacturer's make a
roll of starter strip that is around 35' long. There's no need to cut
off the tabs and throw material away and there's no gap along the roof
edge.

GAF is one of the few that doesn't appear to sell the stuff in rolls.
Instead they have individual starter shingles:
http://www.gaf.com/Content/Documents/20214.pdf

I would go with the roll starter strip, even if it means getting
another manufacturer's product, as it's faster and there is _no_
advantage in having seams where you don't need or want them.

I don't see a 3-tab shingle at the GAF website that comes in the same
color as the architectural shingle that I would like to buy. (I
guess it doesn't matter much if the starter rows would all be covered
up anyhow ??)

All covered up, no problem with color.

I have thought of using the rubberized WeatherGuard instead of felt.
Is this better than paper felt? Although I think it would be quite
expensive for a house, just 1 roll would do for my shed.

Probably not necessary unless it's a very low pitched roof.

Should I order 1 1/2 nails for these architectural (50 yr)
shingles?

1 1/2" is pretty standard if you have plywood sheathing. The tip of
the nail should penetrate the sheathing completely and project about
3/8" on the underside.

What size nails would I get to lay down the WeatherGuard ?? Would
it be the same type nail as the nails for the shingles ??

Staples, or you can use the same nails. No need to complicate matters
with different size nails - not much difference.

R




Staples, or you can use the same nails. No need to complicate matters
with different size nails - not much difference.


So why do they use these plastic cap nails for felt?

http://www.simplexnails.com/PlexCapDataSheet.html

I had never seen them used till I saw pro roofers doing roofs in the
south. I always saw and used just staples myself. You see the roofers in
the northeast with one of those swing staplers and it goes fast.

Those plastic cap ones, with the volume a roofer uses, must tap into
profits and probably take a lot longer to put in.

Once the shingles are on, the shingles and nails hold everything down
anyway.

Al Bundy wrote:

So why do they use these plastic cap nails for felt?

http://www.simplexnails.com/PlexCapDataSheet.html

I had never seen them used till I saw pro roofers doing roofs in the
south. I always saw and used just staples myself. You see the roofers in
the northeast with one of those swing staplers and it goes fast.

Those plastic cap ones, with the volume a roofer uses, must tap into
profits and probably take a lot longer to put in.

Once the shingles are on, the shingles and nails hold everything down
anyway.

Regional differences are curious. In New England furring the ceiling,
aka strapping, is standard operating procedure. It's rarely done in
other areas. That's an even bigger time/money sink and with similarly
small return on investment.

R

In article ,
says...



I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF Grand
Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several questions:

I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and rakes
of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this starter course
should be a 3-tab type shingle.


That's a traditional method that uses the materials on hand. But you can buy
special purpose starter course at any Home Depot, or whatever. It comes in
rolls, pre-cut to the correct width. It has adhesive on the downside to stick
it to the roof, and an additional adhesive strip on the top to hold down the
first course of shingles. That's why you use the cut shingles in the first
place, their adhesive strips help hold down the edge of the first course.

Dennis

On Fri, 3 Mar 2006 19:18:03 -0500, "James"
wrote:



I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF Grand
Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several questions:

I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and rakes
of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this starter course
should be a 3-tab type shingle. Why is this ??

For the starter course the architectural shingle you will be using is
to thick and has variable thickness and will not allow the shingle
over it to lay flat and seal


I don't see a 3-tab shingle at the GAF website that comes in the same color
as the architectural shingle that I would like to buy. (I guess it
doesn't matter much if the starter rows would all be covered up anyhow ??)

Get one that is close. You will not see it anyway

I have thought of using the rubberized WeatherGuard instead of felt. Is
this better than paper felt? Although I think it would be quite expensive
for a house, just 1 roll would do for my shed.

No opinion.

Should I order 1 1/2 nails for these architectural (50 yr) shingles

No opinion. The manufacturers instructions should give you a clue.
??


What size nails would I get to lay down the WeatherGuard ?? Would it be
the same type nail as the nails for the shingles ??


Same as above
Thank you very much !!

--James--

"James" wrote in message
...


I am going to be re-roofing a small shed. I plan to use the GAF Grand
Timberline 50 year architectural shingle. I have several questions:

Re-roof what does this mean, going over the existing shingle or ripping the
old off and put back new?

If you are going over the old shingle the 50 yeare shingle is over kill.


I have read that I should use a "starter" course along the eaves and rakes
of the roof. But, the book that I am reading says that this starter
course
should be a 3-tab type shingle. Why is this ??

3 tab shingle is cheaper than the the grand timberline. It is not viewable
other than the gable ends. I use them on the gable ends so that my finish
product look and is straight. Cutting shingles straight can be a trying job
when looking for perfection.

I don't see a 3-tab shingle at the GAF website that comes in the same
color
as the architectural shingle that I would like to buy. (I guess it
doesn't matter much if the starter rows would all be covered up anyhow ??)

Doesn't matter. Lowes sell a good 3 tab but check the prices.
I have thought of using the rubberized WeatherGuard instead of felt. Is
this better than paper felt? Although I think it would be quite expensive
for a house, just 1 roll would do for my shed.

Check building code for your area. Ice shield may be required for the eaves
and over hang.
Should I order 1 1/2 nails for these architectural (50 yr) shingles
??


Now for the shingle. In order to get good life out of your shingle you must
consider ventilation. As for the requirements, 1 sq ft of ventilation for
300 sq ft of attic space is required. If your over hang of the garage has
vinyl vented soffit and between your rafters you have baffles so air can
come through then you should be fine, also a ridge vent must be installed.
Ventilation is the key to shingle life.
What size nails would I get to lay down the WeatherGuard ?? Would it be
the same type nail as the nails for the shingles ??

Code recommends that the nail penetrate 3/4 of an inch on the sub roof.
Thank you very much !!

--James--