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#1
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Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?
I've been using fiberglass mesh tape for most of my mud joints over
the past hundred years or so (maybe a hundred or two sheets total - strictly DIY), and was wondering - lacking a banjo, bazooka, or whatever that thing is called, what kind of tape would a pro use? I understand that the mesh tape does not work in these machines, so that would be a no-brainer on the job. But when the situation calls for manual application, which is preferred? Is the preference based on ease of application? performance? both? I've never gotten the hang of paper (I *always* get bubbles) - that's why I use mesh. Should I try to perfect my paper technique, or is mesh ok? FWIW, I've had very few cracks over the years - would paper make that even less likely? |
#2
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Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?
My method is mesh on fields and paper in corners. You get a much more
defined corner with paper. I use a corner trowel to set the tape; mesh could never make as straight a line as paper, I think. And its easier to avoid bubbles in corners, since, with a corner trowel, all the air is being pushed out each side of the fold. Try it using about 5 feet at a time, no banjo, just a corner trowel. Overlap the next section and continue that way around room. If you've ever had problems in corners with the mesh being exposed after sanding, you'll appreciate the ease of a sanding block over a straight paper corner. |
#3
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Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?
I agree, this is the way I do it.
"eDeck.net" wrote in message oups.com... My method is mesh on fields and paper in corners. You get a much more defined corner with paper. I use a corner trowel to set the tape; mesh could never make as straight a line as paper, I think. And its easier to avoid bubbles in corners, since, with a corner trowel, all the air is being pushed out each side of the fold. Try it using about 5 feet at a time, no banjo, just a corner trowel. Overlap the next section and continue that way around room. If you've ever had problems in corners with the mesh being exposed after sanding, you'll appreciate the ease of a sanding block over a straight paper corner. |
#4
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Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?
eDeck.net wrote:
My method is mesh on fields and paper in corners. You get a much more defined corner with paper. I use a corner trowel to set the tape; mesh could never make as straight a line as paper, I think. And its easier to avoid bubbles in corners, since, with a corner trowel, all the air is being pushed out each side of the fold. Try it using about 5 feet at a time, no banjo, just a corner trowel. Overlap the next section and continue that way around room. If you've ever had problems in corners with the mesh being exposed after sanding, you'll appreciate the ease of a sanding block over a straight paper corner. I also use paper on butt joints. R |
#5
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Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?
Mike Hartigan wrote:
I've been using fiberglass mesh tape for most of my mud joints over the past hundred years or so (maybe a hundred or two sheets total - strictly DIY), and was wondering - lacking a banjo, bazooka, or whatever that thing is called, what kind of tape would a pro use? I understand that the mesh tape does not work in these machines, so that would be a no-brainer on the job. But when the situation calls for manual application, which is preferred? Is the preference based on ease of application? performance? both? I've never gotten the hang of paper (I *always* get bubbles) - that's why I use mesh. Should I try to perfect my paper technique, or is mesh ok? FWIW, I've had very few cracks over the years - would paper make that even less likely? Back when I first attempted drywall, USG was warning that fiberglass tape worked only with setting compounds like Durabond, and that only paper tape was to be used with regular joint compounds to avoid cracking. All I've ever used was paper, and no cracking so far. |
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