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Mike Hartigan
 
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Default Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?

I've been using fiberglass mesh tape for most of my mud joints over
the past hundred years or so (maybe a hundred or two sheets total -
strictly DIY), and was wondering - lacking a banjo, bazooka, or
whatever that thing is called, what kind of tape would a pro use? I
understand that the mesh tape does not work in these machines, so
that would be a no-brainer on the job. But when the situation calls
for manual application, which is preferred? Is the preference based
on ease of application? performance? both? I've never gotten the
hang of paper (I *always* get bubbles) - that's why I use mesh.
Should I try to perfect my paper technique, or is mesh ok? FWIW,
I've had very few cracks over the years - would paper make that even
less likely?
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eDeck.net
 
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Default Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?

My method is mesh on fields and paper in corners. You get a much more
defined corner with paper. I use a corner trowel to set the tape; mesh
could never make as straight a line as paper, I think. And its easier
to avoid bubbles in corners, since, with a corner trowel, all the air
is being pushed out each side of the fold. Try it using about 5 feet
at a time, no banjo, just a corner trowel. Overlap the next section and
continue that way around room. If you've ever had problems in corners
with the mesh being exposed after sanding, you'll appreciate the ease
of a sanding block over a straight paper corner.

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EXT
 
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Default Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?

I agree, this is the way I do it.

"eDeck.net" wrote in message
oups.com...
My method is mesh on fields and paper in corners. You get a much more
defined corner with paper. I use a corner trowel to set the tape; mesh
could never make as straight a line as paper, I think. And its easier
to avoid bubbles in corners, since, with a corner trowel, all the air
is being pushed out each side of the fold. Try it using about 5 feet
at a time, no banjo, just a corner trowel. Overlap the next section and
continue that way around room. If you've ever had problems in corners
with the mesh being exposed after sanding, you'll appreciate the ease
of a sanding block over a straight paper corner.



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RicodJour
 
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Default Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?

eDeck.net wrote:
My method is mesh on fields and paper in corners. You get a much more
defined corner with paper. I use a corner trowel to set the tape; mesh
could never make as straight a line as paper, I think. And its easier
to avoid bubbles in corners, since, with a corner trowel, all the air
is being pushed out each side of the fold. Try it using about 5 feet
at a time, no banjo, just a corner trowel. Overlap the next section and
continue that way around room. If you've ever had problems in corners
with the mesh being exposed after sanding, you'll appreciate the ease
of a sanding block over a straight paper corner.


I also use paper on butt joints.

R

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Bob (but not THAT Bob)
 
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Default Fiberglass mesh or paper tape for mud joints?

Mike Hartigan wrote:

I've been using fiberglass mesh tape for most of my mud joints over
the past hundred years or so (maybe a hundred or two sheets total -
strictly DIY), and was wondering - lacking a banjo, bazooka, or
whatever that thing is called, what kind of tape would a pro use? I
understand that the mesh tape does not work in these machines, so
that would be a no-brainer on the job. But when the situation calls
for manual application, which is preferred? Is the preference based
on ease of application? performance? both? I've never gotten the
hang of paper (I *always* get bubbles) - that's why I use mesh.
Should I try to perfect my paper technique, or is mesh ok? FWIW,
I've had very few cracks over the years - would paper make that even
less likely?



Back when I first attempted drywall, USG was warning that fiberglass
tape worked only with setting compounds like Durabond, and that only
paper tape was to be used with regular joint compounds to avoid
cracking.

All I've ever used was paper, and no cracking so far.
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