I'd like to remove the drywall from the two exterior walls of my corner
bedroom, add a couple of electrical outlets while they're exposed, and
put 3" fiberglass insulation batts between the studs. This house was
built in West Texas in 1959, so it has NO wall insulation at this time.
I don't want to use the blow-in or spray-in insulation. Several of
the drywall nails have "popped" over the years, which is another reason
to replace the existing drywall. The ceiling is insulated and the
drywall overhead is OK, so I don't plan on messing with it.

If anyone has any tips for making the joint between the new wall
drywall sheets and the existing ceiling drywall look good, please share
them with me. I'm somewhat familiar with drywall taping since I put it
in a large workshop I built a few years ago, but it was all NEW
drywall.

Would it be beneficial to make an incision about 1/16" deep about 2"
from the joint all along the ceiling sheets, and scrape out the old
paper tape and joint compound from those sheets? This would provide a
shallow channel to bed the new tape and it seems it would be easier to
smooth out the compound.

I've always used the conventional paper tape; would the fiberglass mesh
joint tape be better for this project?

It would seem easier to blow in insulation - like, a lot easier.

Seams can be overcome with tape and mud, if you feather it out enough I
swear you can cover up any seam or flaw.

Just treat the ceiling like you would new drywall.

You could scrape the ceiling a bit after you remove the wall to remove any
large bits or ridges of compound but it shouldn't be anything major. The
only time I would try to scrape the ceiling is if its textured. Then it
gets a little tough and you will most likely have to retexture the whole
ceiling.

Just run a knife along the joint between the ceiling and the old wall
drywall. This will keep the paper facing on the ceiling from tearing as you
remove the old drywall. That would make it a somewhat major problem to fix.

Any cutting and major scraping on the ceiling will make a mess of the
ceiling because you will cut into the paper facing.

I prefer paper tape for corners. Mesh tape just doesn't fill-in the corner
just right. I also use a corner trowel. Its great because you can do both
sides of the joint at the same time.. It makes a really nice ever so
slightly rounded inside corner. I bed the tape with the corner trowel and
use just a enough compound. I then remove most of the compound the squirts
out with a six inch knife. After this dries a then put a wider coat of
compound on with the 6" knife and smooth it out with the corner trowel. the
next coat is done with either a 6 or 8" trowel on both sides being careful
to not scrape into the corner.


wrote in message
oups.com...
I'd like to remove the drywall from the two exterior walls of my corner
bedroom, add a couple of electrical outlets while they're exposed, and
put 3" fiberglass insulation batts between the studs. This house was
built in West Texas in 1959, so it has NO wall insulation at this time.
I don't want to use the blow-in or spray-in insulation. Several of
the drywall nails have "popped" over the years, which is another reason
to replace the existing drywall. The ceiling is insulated and the
drywall overhead is OK, so I don't plan on messing with it.

If anyone has any tips for making the joint between the new wall
drywall sheets and the existing ceiling drywall look good, please share
them with me. I'm somewhat familiar with drywall taping since I put it
in a large workshop I built a few years ago, but it was all NEW
drywall.

Would it be beneficial to make an incision about 1/16" deep about 2"
from the joint all along the ceiling sheets, and scrape out the old
paper tape and joint compound from those sheets? This would provide a
shallow channel to bed the new tape and it seems it would be easier to
smooth out the compound.

I've always used the conventional paper tape; would the fiberglass mesh
joint tape be better for this project?