I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.

There are wire nuts with wings to help grab them, Gardner Bender has a
wrench to tighten theirs as well. The key is in lining the wires up evenly
and holding them tightly as you spin on the wire nut. Like anything else, it
takes practice



"Dave" wrote in message
ups.com...
I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.

Dave wrote:
I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an
inspection or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic
with a square end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe
install the plastic insulator as a second step.

You can over tighten them and you can use the wrong size nut for the
size and number of wires. There are also different kinds of wire nuts.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

I always twist my wires together tightly with pliers before putting any kind
of wire connector on them. It is important to have the correct size wire
connector.


"Dave" wrote in message
ups.com...
I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.

Dave ) said...

I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.

There have been discussions in here on whether you should pre-twist
wires or not -- some wirenut manufacturers recommend it, some say you
don't have to. I used to only pre-twist when more than two wires were
being attached, or if stranded wire was involve.

I now always pre-twist for this reason: if you have a solid connection
with nothing loose all on its own without a wirenut, then you know you
have a good connection and the wirenut serves little more than an
insulator for the joint.

Strip the ends of wires off at least a half inch more than needed. Line
them all up so the end of each wire's insulation are even. Twist the
wires using a pair of linesmans pliers so they are held together well.
If you need to attached a stranded conductor, hand-twist it around the
twisted solid conductors. Then cut off the twisted connection so that it
is the right length so as not to protrude from the wirenut once it is
installed (this also cuts away the "chewed up" end from the pliers!).
Then attach the wirenut.

--
Calvin Henry-Cotnam
"Never ascribe to malice what can equally be explained by incompetence."
- Napoleon
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: if replying by email, remove "remove." and ".invalid"

"Dave" wrote in message
ups.com...
I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.


I always twist the wires with lineman pliers then cut the ends off even.
(I wouldn't even need the wirenuts except for insulating of the
connections).
Connecting a solid to a stranded wire can be a problem. With those I have
better luck first bending a 'ripple' into the solid wire.
Kevin

they make screwdrivers with a "socket" in the handle that fits over
wirenuts and aids in tightening them.

Ideal is one manufacturer fo these screwdrivers.

I do like the idea of clear wirenuts though...that would be neat.

also, though a lot of people, including myself, twist the wires
together by pliers before installing the wirenut its not a good
practice. The wirenut is designed to do all the twisting and
tightening.

Dave wrote:
I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.


I like the idea of clear plastic.

I always use wirenuts with a "live spring". The spring does not have
hard plastic behind it and will deform over the wires giving a longer
length of the spring squeezing the wires together. Made by Buchanan, 3M
and others.

bud--

....
:
: I now always pre-twist for this reason: if you have a solid
connection
: with nothing loose all on its own without a wirenut, then you
know you
: have a good connection and the wirenut serves little more than
an
: insulator for the joint.
:
: Strip the ends of wires off at least a half inch more than
needed. Line
: them all up so the end of each wire's insulation are even.
Twist the
: wires using a pair of linesmans pliers so they are held
together well.
: If you need to attached a stranded conductor, hand-twist it
around the
: twisted solid conductors. Then cut off the twisted connection
so that it
: is the right length so as not to protrude from the wirenut once
it is
: installed (this also cuts away the "chewed up" end from the
pliers!).
: Then attach the wirenut.
....

Same here; All I use the wire nuts for is insulation. I also
tape them with rubber tape. Lots of people are going to disagree
with this, but ... so be it g.

Pop

"Bud--" wrote in message
...
: Dave wrote:
: I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out
of them
: but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the
others and
: is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an
inspection
: or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with
a square
: end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install
the
: plastic insulator as a second step.
:
:
: I like the idea of clear plastic.
:
: I always use wirenuts with a "live spring". The spring does not
have
: hard plastic behind it and will deform over the wires giving a
longer
: length of the spring squeezing the wires together. Made by
Buchanan, 3M
: and others.
:
: bud--

REcently learned there are wire nuts pre-loaded with silicone
caulk, even, when I had to tie some #8s together for underground.
I was pleased & surprised when I poked the wirenut seal & there
was caulk already in them; I thought I'd have to manually caulk.
I worried a little about the pre-loaded caulk being insulating,
but ... no sweat - tested for 12 hrs under high load & no heat -
guess they worked well. I didn't pre-twist those; it said not to
g. For specialized applications, it's best to follow
instructions to the T.

Pop

wrote:

also, though a lot of people, including myself, twist the wires
together by pliers before installing the wirenut its not a good
practice. The wirenut is designed to do all the twisting and
tightening.

Not good practice? Twisting the wires before capping with the wirenut
is not going to do anything but insure a good connection. Cheap
insurance.

R

You're supposed to line up the ends of the wires, install the wire nut, and
twist until you see the insulated portion of the wires start to turn.
According to most wire nut makers, this insures that the connection is
tight. I always pre-twist if at least one of the wires is stranded.

"Dave" wrote in message
ups.com...
I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.

Dave wrote:
I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.

Hi,
You need more practice, LOL!
Tony

"Pop" wrote in message
news:X7tAf.74$mj3.53@trndny06...
...
:
: I now always pre-twist for this reason: if you have a solid
connection
: with nothing loose all on its own without a wirenut, then you
know you
: have a good connection and the wirenut serves little more than
an
: insulator for the joint.
:
: Strip the ends of wires off at least a half inch more than
needed. Line
: them all up so the end of each wire's insulation are even.
Twist the
: wires using a pair of linesmans pliers so they are held
together well.
: If you need to attached a stranded conductor, hand-twist it
around the
: twisted solid conductors. Then cut off the twisted connection
so that it
: is the right length so as not to protrude from the wirenut once
it is
: installed (this also cuts away the "chewed up" end from the
pliers!).
: Then attach the wirenut.
...

Same here; All I use the wire nuts for is insulation. I also
tape them with rubber tape. Lots of people are going to disagree
with this, but ... so be it g.

I will triple that recommendation. I have even used tape occasionally.

John‰]
wrote:
In article . com, Dave
wrote:


I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.


If you don't trust wire nuts, look for the push-in connectors at any of
the big box stores. They have an internal spring that grabs the wire
when you push it in that prevents it from backing out. You can get
them in clear plastic with two to eight ports. They are terrific in
crowded boxes with several wire nut connections. They cost more than
wire nuts but the savings in time and space are worth it.

http://www.electricalbasics.com/acat...onnectors.html

Isn't that basically the same technology as the "stab-in" connections
on switches that are so maligned here?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Pop ) said...

[description of pre-twisting wires before using wirenuts snipped]

Same here; All I use the wire nuts for is insulation. I also
tape them with rubber tape. Lots of people are going to disagree
with this, but ... so be it g.

Not so much an argument (ie: an attempt to change your opinion) as just
stating another opinion...

I don't bother with tape as I find that good wirenuts actually "bite"
into the wire a bit and hold in place well. A well pre-twisted set of
wires provides a good even surface for the wirenut to hold onto, and if
I ever have to take the connection apart, I don't have to put up with
a sticky mess.

If there's ever any reason to think the wirenut may come loose (and I
have had the situation, sometimes especially where stranded conductors
are concerned), I will use the type of wirenut that has a stud that
clamps on the wires, then you screw the plastic cover onto the stud.

--
Calvin Henry-Cotnam
"Never ascribe to malice what can equally be explained by incompetence."
- Napoleon
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: if replying by email, remove "remove." and ".invalid"

On 21 Jan 2006 08:00:45 -0800, wrote:


also, though a lot of people, including myself, twist the wires
together by pliers before installing the wirenut its not a good
practice. The wirenut is designed to do all the twisting and
tightening.

I don't understand.

My wife is designed to do the cooking and cleaning, but why would it
not be a good practice to get my daughter to help her.

Why is not a good practice to help the wirenut?

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

"Dave" wrote in message
ups.com...
I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.

It is best not to "tighten the hell out of them" - especially when one or
more of the wires is stranded, or small guage, as they may be deformed or
twisted off.
Twist nut firmly, yes, but ensure a low resistance connection by
pre-twisting wires with a pair of side-cutting pliers. The nut just
insulates the connection, and provides moderated pressure to keep the twist
together. For secure connections, I sometimes strip the ends, fine-sandpaper
the bare wire, align the ends, then use 1" high qual. elec. tape to wrap
just below the stripped part, to keep the wire ends aligned, and thereby
suspend the fixture. Then do your wire twist, so that it tapers to the end,
and use the wire spring (pricier) insert type wire nuts . Once the nut is
tightened, I wrap the nut in a bit of tape in the direction that keeps
tension on the nut, and finish wrapping its end around the pre-taped wire
itself, as an anchor. I know this sounds compulsive, but I can do it pretty
quickly, and it makes a very neat and tidy looking job. As I mentioned, the
big advantage of pre-taping before applying the nut is that you can suspend
wall fixtures this way, so that twisting can be done at your leisure, with
two hands in play.

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...
: wrote:
:
: also, though a lot of people, including myself, twist the
wires
: together by pliers before installing the wirenut its not a
good
: practice. The wirenut is designed to do all the twisting and
: tightening.
:
: Not good practice? Twisting the wires before capping with the
wirenut
: is not going to do anything but insure a good connection.
Cheap
: insurance.
:
: R
:
No, that depends on a few things, including the design and
construction of the wirenut - they're not a one size fits all
deal.

"Bob" wrote in message
news : You're supposed to line up the ends of the wires, install the
wire nut, and
: twist until you see the insulated portion of the wires start to
turn.
: According to most wire nut makers, this insures that the
connection is
: tight. I always pre-twist if at least one of the wires is
stranded.

It's easier, and better, to take a couple seconds to read the
package and see what's recommended for that specific type of
wirenut. There are many different kinds and designs.

"Roger" wrote in message
...
: "Dave" wrote in message
: ups.com...
: I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out
of them
: but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the
others and
: is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an
inspection
: or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with
a square
: end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install
the
: plastic insulator as a second step.
:
: It is best not to "tighten the hell out of them" - especially
when one or
: more of the wires is stranded, or small guage, as they may be
deformed or
: twisted off.
: Twist nut firmly, yes, but ensure a low resistance connection
by
: pre-twisting wires with a pair of side-cutting pliers. The
nut just
: insulates the connection, and provides moderated pressure to
keep the twist
: together. For secure connections, I sometimes strip the ends,
fine-sandpaper
: the bare wire, align the ends, then use 1" high qual. elec.
tape to wrap
: just below the stripped part, to keep the wire ends aligned,
and thereby
: suspend the fixture. Then do your wire twist, so that it tapers
to the end,
: and use the wire spring (pricier) insert type wire nuts . Once
the nut is
: tightened, I wrap the nut in a bit of tape in the direction
that keeps
: tension on the nut, and finish wrapping its end around the
pre-taped wire
: itself, as an anchor. I know this sounds compulsive, but I can
do it pretty
: quickly, and it makes a very neat and tidy looking job. As I
mentioned, the
: big advantage of pre-taping before applying the nut is that you
can suspend
: wall fixtures this way, so that twisting can be done at your
leisure, with
: two hands in play.
:
:
Yeah, you're right: the hell with the manufacturer's
recommendations on the bvest way to do it for that particular
brand of type of wirenut you're using. They're all the same, so
there's only one way to it; your way. Right.

Pop wrote:
"Roger" wrote in message
...
: "Dave" wrote in message
: ups.com...
: I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out
of them
: but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the
others and
: is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an
inspection
: or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with
a square
: end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install
the
: plastic insulator as a second step.
:
: It is best not to "tighten the hell out of them" - especially
when one or
: more of the wires is stranded, or small guage, as they may be
deformed or
: twisted off.
: Twist nut firmly, yes, but ensure a low resistance connection
by
: pre-twisting wires with a pair of side-cutting pliers. The
nut just
: insulates the connection, and provides moderated pressure to
keep the twist
: together. For secure connections, I sometimes strip the ends,
fine-sandpaper
: the bare wire, align the ends, then use 1" high qual. elec.
tape to wrap
: just below the stripped part, to keep the wire ends aligned,
and thereby
: suspend the fixture. Then do your wire twist, so that it tapers
to the end,
: and use the wire spring (pricier) insert type wire nuts . Once
the nut is
: tightened, I wrap the nut in a bit of tape in the direction
that keeps
: tension on the nut, and finish wrapping its end around the
pre-taped wire
: itself, as an anchor. I know this sounds compulsive, but I can
do it pretty
: quickly, and it makes a very neat and tidy looking job. As I
mentioned, the
: big advantage of pre-taping before applying the nut is that you
can suspend
: wall fixtures this way, so that twisting can be done at your
leisure, with
: two hands in play.
:
:
Yeah, you're right: the hell with the manufacturer's
recommendations on the bvest way to do it for that particular
brand of type of wirenut you're using. They're all the same, so
there's only one way to it; your way. Right.


I worked for many years in an industrial environment and I never saw an
electrician pre-twist the wires. They always lined up the ends and
twisted on the wirenuts. We never had any electrical fires in the plant
so I guess they knew what they were doing.
Bob

"Dave" wrote in news:1137856312.938470.37830
@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.


Ideal makes a set screw wire connector that can be useful:

http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-
EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Set+Screw+Wire+Connectors?OpenDocument

If you don't want to past that together then they're off this page:

http://www.idealindustries.com/wt/Lugs.nsf

You put the wires in the barrel, tighten the set screw, trim off the excess
then put on the cap. Easy to verify by inspection and no twisting.

They are much more expensive ($.50-.75/each) than wirenuts and hard to
find. McMaster-Carr sells them in small quantities.

Doug

According to Calvin Henry-Cotnam :
Pop ) said...

[description of pre-twisting wires before using wirenuts snipped]

Same here; All I use the wire nuts for is insulation. I also
tape them with rubber tape. Lots of people are going to disagree
with this, but ... so be it g.

Not so much an argument (ie: an attempt to change your opinion) as just
stating another opinion...

Ditto.

I don't bother with tape as I find that good wirenuts actually "bite"
into the wire a bit and hold in place well. A well pre-twisted set of
wires provides a good even surface for the wirenut to hold onto, and if
I ever have to take the connection apart, I don't have to put up with
a sticky mess.

I always twist, no tape. PS Knight (the Canadian wiring bible)
makes a remark that it's usually a sign that the electrician stripped
the wires too long, and the tape is to hide the bare bits. Went
on to remark that an inspector will often tear the tape off
to check the workmanship for just that reason.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

"Doug" wrote in message
. ..
: "Dave" wrote in
news:1137856312.938470.37830
: @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
:
: I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out
of them
: but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the
others and
: is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an
inspection
: or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with
a square
: end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install
the
: plastic insulator as a second step.
:
:
: Ideal makes a set screw wire connector that can be useful:
:
: http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-
: EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Set+Screw+Wire+Connectors?OpenDocument
:

Hmm, that's a keeper; thanks!

Pop

"Chris Lewis" wrote in message
...
: According to Calvin Henry-Cotnam
:
: Pop ) said...
:
: [description of pre-twisting wires before using wirenuts
snipped]
:
: Same here; All I use the wire nuts for is insulation. I
also
: tape them with rubber tape. Lots of people are going to
disagree
: with this, but ... so be it g.
:
: Not so much an argument (ie: an attempt to change your
opinion) as just
: stating another opinion...
:
: Ditto.
:
: I don't bother with tape as I find that good wirenuts
actually "bite"
: into the wire a bit and hold in place well. A well
pre-twisted set of
: wires provides a good even surface for the wirenut to hold
onto, and if
: I ever have to take the connection apart, I don't have to put
up with
: a sticky mess.
:
: I always twist, no tape. PS Knight (the Canadian wiring bible)
: makes a remark that it's usually a sign that the electrician
stripped
: the wires too long, and the tape is to hide the bare bits.
Went
: on to remark that an inspector will often tear the tape off
: to check the workmanship for just that reason.

True. But usually only one, in my experience. Usually, unless
you make a mess of it, all they do is press a thumbnail into the
tape to feel for the edge of the insulation strip - it's not hard
to find.
I also leave a tiny "flap" on the end of the tape, just in
case I want to untape it someday, and I've had a few "somedays"
due to changed minds, too. He spotted the flap and used it to
unwind the first one, then just "thumbed" the rest on my latest
inspection.
I like the tape because it keeps bugs etc. out and it looks
nice and isn't that much trouble to do for me.

Pop

Doug wrote:
"Dave" wrote in news:1137856312.938470.37830
@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out of them
but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the others and
is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an inspection
or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with a square
end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install the
plastic insulator as a second step.


Ideal makes a set screw wire connector that can be useful:

http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Set+Screw+Wire+Connectors?OpenDocument


If you don't want to past that together then they're off this page:

http://www.idealindustries.com/wt/Lugs.nsf

You put the wires in the barrel, tighten the set screw, trim off the excess
then put on the cap. Easy to verify by inspection and no twisting.

They are much more expensive ($.50-.75/each) than wirenuts and hard to
find. McMaster-Carr sells them in small quantities.

Doug

Just checking to see if I could keep the link in a usable form.
http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Set+Screw+Wire+Connectors?OpenDocument
--
Tom Horne

"This alternating current stuff is just a fad. It is much too dangerous
for general use." Thomas Alva Edison

Chris Lewis wrote:
According to Calvin Henry-Cotnam :
I don't bother with tape as I find that good wirenuts actually "bite"
into the wire a bit and hold in place well. A well pre-twisted set of
wires provides a good even surface for the wirenut to hold onto, and if
I ever have to take the connection apart, I don't have to put up with
a sticky mess.

I always twist, no tape. PS Knight (the Canadian wiring bible)
makes a remark that it's usually a sign that the electrician stripped
the wires too long, and the tape is to hide the bare bits. Went
on to remark that an inspector will often tear the tape off
to check the workmanship for just that reason.

A friend of mine was a union electrician for probably 35 years before his
death. He taught me to always tape wirenut connections. Neither he nor I
ever used it to hide anything, and I never saw him make any connection
that was less than perfect.

When I push my wiring into the box, especially a crowded box, I know that
nothing is going to rub any wirenut loose.

--
If John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination,
my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin.

If you twist the wires together first, and snip off any ends that
stick out a bit too far, you will get a perfect connection every time.
It takes practice. Take wire scraps and practice a hundred times...
Once you get it right, it will always be done right. The twisting is
what REALLY makes the connection. The wirenut just makes the wires
stay tightly together and insulate the bare ends.



On Sun, 22 Jan 2006 16:19:11 GMT, "Pop"
wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
...
: "Dave" wrote in
news:1137856312.938470.37830
: @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
:
: I swear I don't trust these things. You tighten the hell out
of them
: but too often one wire does not get pulled in as far as the
others and
: is still a bit wiggly, and there is no room to do much of an
inspection
: or pull-test. They need to be made out of clear plastic with
a square
: end you could twist with a socket wrench -- or maybe install
the
: plastic insulator as a second step.
:
:
: Ideal makes a set screw wire connector that can be useful:
:
: http://www.idealindustries.com/IDEAL-
: EZ/prodcat.nsf/Tables/Set+Screw+Wire+Connectors?OpenDocument
:

Hmm, that's a keeper; thanks!

Pop

According to Pop :

I like the tape because it keeps bugs etc. out and it looks
nice and isn't that much trouble to do for me.

I've been known to tape outdoor connections (usually not AC), but
I figure if I'm worried about bugs with wirenuts, those same
circumstances will cause electrical tape to trap moisture and
cause corrosion. Bugs are better than corrosion.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

"Chris Lewis" wrote in message
...
: According to Pop :
:
: I like the tape because it keeps bugs etc. out and it
looks
: nice and isn't that much trouble to do for me.
:
: I've been known to tape outdoor connections (usually not AC),
but
: I figure if I'm worried about bugs with wirenuts, those same
: circumstances will cause electrical tape to trap moisture and
: cause corrosion. Bugs are better than corrosion.
: --
: Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
: It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named
after them.

LOL, obviously. Tape wrap collects moisture & bugs don;t?

According to Pop :

"Chris Lewis" wrote in message
...
: According to Pop :
:
: I like the tape because it keeps bugs etc. out and it
looks
: nice and isn't that much trouble to do for me.
:
: I've been known to tape outdoor connections (usually not AC),
but
: I figure if I'm worried about bugs with wirenuts, those same
: circumstances will cause electrical tape to trap moisture and
: cause corrosion. Bugs are better than corrosion.

LOL, obviously. Tape wrap collects moisture & bugs don;t?

Without the tape wrap it it can dry out. If the tape wrap isn't
perfect, and/or deteriorates slightly, driven rain or snow
can get in and stay there for quite a while.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.