What type of windows do you recommend? I was told that the double hung
windows were the best. How about the triple pane windows?

wrote:
What type of windows do you recommend? I was told that the double hung
windows were the best. How about the triple pane windows?

Define "best."

Double hung is a very good design and is a good choice in many
situations, but not all.

I hope you know that triple pane is a totally different design part than
double hung. A window can be either both or neither.

Maybe if you told us more about your needs we might be able to offer
more information. Like are you building new, what type of environment
(Alaska or Florida) what kind of building, what design style?

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

wrote:
What type of windows do you recommend? I was told that the double hung
windows were the best. How about the triple pane windows?

I guess I should also add that how well they are made and installed is
likely far more important than the design.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

I email you a couple of articles about windows. They're from 2000, but a lot
of the info still applies.

wrote in message
oups.com...
What type of windows do you recommend? I was told that the double hung
windows were the best. How about the triple pane windows?

could you post those articles, or at least send them to me too at

I am looking to replace 4 windows and am trying to decide if to attempt to
do it on my own. I was thinking of the gliding window, since other windows
in our home are tall and narrow crankcase windows.
I live in CT and the windows are on the hight second floor so have to be
installed from inside only.

thanks for any advice, it is so frustrating that i cannot get any quote on
line without having a sales person come for an 90 min appointment.

thanks

pawel


"Bob" wrote in message
...
I email you a couple of articles about windows. They're from 2000, but a
lot
of the info still applies.

wrote in message
oups.com...
What type of windows do you recommend? I was told that the double hung
windows were the best. How about the triple pane windows?

make sure the style of opeable window does not reduce your hang and
drop egress from the second floor for fire. in buffalo ny in late
1980's and maybe still now the windows had to be 10 percent of the
square feet of the room or more for light and had to open i think 45
percent or more. check your code with your building permit office
before you reduce openable size by changing from 100 percent of
vertical crank out within specified inches from the floor to an
overlapping double hung or slider.

In the interest of fairness, I'm posting the articles (you wouldn't want to
have a nicer window than your neighbor would you?). As I said "they're from
2000, but a lot of the info still applies". The prices will certainly be
different, and some manufacturers may have changed. Please note, they are
looooooong.

CONSUMER REPORTS REPLACEMENT WINDOWS ARTICLE 10/00:
New windows can cut your utility bills, but will you save enough to justify
the upgrade?


With last summer's stratospheric gasoline prices a fresh reminder and the
prospect of higher home heating cost looming as well, many homeowners may
wonder whether it's time to replace aging, drafty windows with efficient,
tight fitting ones. Old windows - a single sheet of plain glass in a wood or
metal frame allow heat to pass through the glass and air to migrate through
gaps and cracks in the frame. Modern windows in*corporate a frame made of
all-vinyl or wood, often covered in vinyl or aluminum, with two or three
sheets of glass that are sometimes specially coated and separated with air
or another gas to help cut energy use.


You'll usually save money by replacing old single-glazed windows with
virtually any energy-efficient new window. But you aren't likely to recoup
the initial outlay through lower heating and cooling bills for 20 years or
more. That's why it makes the most sense to install new windows when the old
ones have deteriorated, when you're remodeling, or when you want windows
that are easier to wash and maintain. (If enough home*owners installed new
windows, however, the individual small savings could add up to significant
nationwide savings of energy, with attendant benefits to the environment.


Determining which windows to buy, however, can be daunting. New standardized
labels, so far required in only a handful of states, are supposed to make it
easier to comparison shop for new windows. (See "How to Decode Labels) But
not all windows carry the labels, which cover only energy efficiency, not
wind and rain resistance, durability, or convenience.


To give you information that the labels don't, we hired an outside lab to
test 16 double-hung and 2 casement windows from Andersen, Marvin, Pella, and
other major manufacturers. We chose double-glazed windows with argon between
the panes and a low-E coating. That's a sensible package in most parts of
the country. Our window sized for an opening of about 3x5 feet, ranged from
$150 to $415.


GLASS PANES:
The type of glazing can affect a window's price and energy performance even
more than the frame. Here are factors to weigh:


Single, double, or triple glazing. A single sheet of clear glass allows the
highest transfer of energy, offering little insulation against frigid
winters or searing summers.


Double-glazed windows have a sealed space between two panes of glass to
provide an added layer of insulation. Compared with a single pane. double
glazing can cut heat loss of the window nearly in half.


Triple-glazed windows have a higher in*sulating value still, but few
manufacturers offer them. The extra layer adds to the weight and cost.


Gas filling. The gas in the gap between the panes improves the window's
insulating value. Ordinary air works fine and is sometimes a manufacturer's
"standard" option. A gas like argon will provide better thermal performance.
Some manufacturers make argon filling standard. Top-of-the-line sometimes
incorporate more exotic gases like krypton for still better insulation. Like
triple glazing however, this option isn't seen very often.


Plain glass or "low-E" coating - Clear glass allows large amounts of radiant
energy (heat from the sun in the summer, heat out from your house in the
winter) to pass through low-E (for low-emission) coatings add more
insulation value to the window by reflecting heat back into the house and
blocking some heat from the sun. The coatings can be fine-tuned for
different climates, producing Southern and Northern windows, for example.
Sometimes multiple coatings are applied to block even more radiant energy.
Some coatings may darken the glass, like tint*ed glass in a car, an effect
some people may find undesirable. Check a sample at the store.


MATERIAL MATTERS:
Windows like these can be made for new construction (nailed into an opening,
then finished with trim), or as a replacement for existing window. Some come
in custom sizes, others only in stock sizes. The materials that make a
window frame can affect energy efficiency, maintenance, and price.


Wood:

For sheer elegance, natural wood is hard to beat, though it usually costs
more than vinyl and requires painting or staining. To minimize maintenance
where it's needed most (the exterior side exposed the weather) many
manufacturers cover the wood in vinyl or aluminum.


Vinyl:

Many vinyl windows feature sturdy welded corners that are less likely to
pull apart from repeated swelling and shrinking as temperatures rise and
fall. Vinyl isn't usually available in many colors.


Aluminum:

Aluminum windows have dwindled in popularity as vinyl's star has risen.
Aluminum's biggest drawback is that it conducts heat readily. That can make
the area around the window feel chilly. In places like New England, a simple
aluminum frame can become cold enough to condense moisture or frost on the
inside. (In the south, where heat loss is less of an issue, aluminum can be
a good choice.) Better aluminum windows are "thermally broken" with
insulating material between interior and exterior components.


Vinyl/Wood Composite:

Andersen and other manufacturers are beginning to offer Composite frames,
claiming they offer the strength and durability of wood with the low upkeep
of vinyl. For example, the Andersen Renewal and Millennium windows use
frames made from a mixture of wood fibers and vinyl. According to the
company, the compound is less susceptible to temper*ature changes than are
other materials. In our tests, the Millennium performed quite well and
proved very durable, although other, less-expensive Andersen windows also
did well.


WHAT THE NUMBERS MEAN:
Window makers use the term U-factor as a measure of thermal performance. It
describes a window's ability to conduct heat. The Ratings also give the
better-known R-value (the inverse of the U-factor) which describes
insulating ability. The higher the R-value (or the lower the U-factor) the
better a window will keep your home cool in summer and warm in winter.


WEATHERING THE ELEMENTS:
The acid test of any window is how well it holds up to the elements. So our
tests focused on other aspects of performance, not just thermal efficiency.


First, we gauged each window's ability to block drafts, repel water, open
smoothly and easily, and close snugly. Next came two weeks of accelerated
punishment, including alternating periods of high heat, frigid temperatures,
radiant heat, and simulated rain*storms. Then we checked for structural
changes and re-evaluated performance.


Wind and rain leakage:

When new, most windows did a very good or excellent job at sealing out
fairly strong winds when the outside thermometer registered about 70 F. But
when we dropped the temperature to zero (which can cause weather stripping
and other components to shrink or stiffen) only the Marvin Clad Ultimate,
the Andersen Tilt-Wash, Narroline, and casement; the Pella ProLine, and the
CertainTeed Bryn Mawr II performed extremely well.


Five windows performed poorly in the cold; they leaked at least four times
as much air as the highest-rated windows.


Most windows did a decent job of repel*ling rain; seven (see the Ratings)
prevented all water leakage in the face of 50-mph winds. The windows that
fared worst in the rain were the Alside UltraMaxx, Crestline VinylCrest,
WeatherShield Visions 2000, and Wenco Series 8.


Durability:

Most windows held up re*markably well. The Crestline VinylCrest suffered the
most structural changes bowed stiles, rails, and jambs but the Wenco Series
8 had the worst fall-off in performance.


Ease of use:

Most new double-hung windows have tilting sashes, a very handy feature that
lets you pivot them inward for easier cleaning. Among the tested windows,
only the Andersen Narroline has non-tilting sashes. With most windows, you
simply flip a lever or two to tilt the sash inward. But with some, you must
pull the sash out of its vinyl track.


To help keep out water, some double-hung windows (see Ratings) have a thin
lip (a strip of wood or vinyl about an inch high) that rises from the sill.
You may need to work around the lip when installing an air conditioner.


RECOMMENDATIONS:
If you decide to replace old windows with new, high-efficiency ones, be sure
they're designed for the weather in your area:


In the South:

Cooling costs predominate here, so look for double glazing and a low-E
coating. Give first consideration to windows with a low solar heat-gain
coefficient; the U.S. Department of Energy recommends a number of 0.4 or
less.


In the Central states:

Here, heating and cooling share the spotlight. Again, look for
double-glazing with a low-E coating. You'll also want high insulating value
and a solar heat-gain coefficient of 0.55 or less.


In the North:

Heating bills constitute the biggest concern. Give priority to
well-insulated, double-glazed windows that are draft-free. A low-E coating
isn't essential.


The best double-hung window was the Marvin Clad Climate, $310. The
wood-frame Pella ProLine was nearly as good and sells for a lot less. At
$180, it's rated a Consumer Reports Best Buy. The standout vinyl window was
the CertainTeed Bryn Mawr II, $180. The Survivor 5500, $155, is also a very
good choice.


HOW THE SAVINGS COMPA
If you're considering new windows, not just storm windows and better weather
stripping, what kind of saving can you expect from the different types of
glazing available?


To find out, we tested three versions of the WeatherShield WeatherShield:
The basic Insulated, which features plain air between the panes and lacks a
low-E coating; the mid-line (the one we rated), with argon gas between the
panes and a Low-E coating; and the top-of-the-line Value R5, with
argon/krypton gas and two Low-E coatings (The "R5" is the insulating value
in the center of the glass; the window's overall R-value is much lower.)


Using the RESFEN 3.1 computer program developed at Lawrence Berkeley
National Laboratory with our test results, we calculated the potential
energy savings for a hypothetical house in three localities: Madison, Wis.
(a North*ern city where heating costs predominate); Phoenix, Ariz. (a
southern city where bills run highest for air conditioning); and Kansas
City, Mo. (a Central states area where both heating and cooling costs are
significant.)


We estimated the annual savings, based on replacing 20 3x5-foot single-pane
windows in a 2,000-square-foot house with the various versions of the
WeatherShield window. We reckoned on electricity for cooling and natural gas
for heating, at the national average utility rates of 8 cents per
kilowatt-hour for electricity and natural gas at 70 cents per therm. (Of
course, changing any of those variables would change specific dollar
amounts.)


Replacing existing single-glazed windows can yield the biggest annual
savings in the South, but only with the most expensive glazing option. But
even then, it would take more than 30 years of lower energy bills to pay for
the new windows-without installation.


In the North, insulated windows yielded the greatest savings, while savings
in the Central region doubled with an upgrade to Low-E with argon. Moving to
the Value R5 windows in these regions would have little benefit.



Window
Average

Price
R-Value
Heat

Gain
North

Energy

Cost
North

Saving
Central

Energy

Cost
Central

Saving
South

Energy

Cost
South

Saving












Single

glazed
-
1.1
0.79
$1321
-
$1056
-
$1025
-

Insulated
$225
1.8
0.82
$1188
10%
$965
9%
$1013
1%

Insulated

low-E

with argon
$220
2.6
0.42
$1165
12%
$880
17%
$769
33%

Value R5
$485
3.2
0.33
$1151
13%
$854
19%
$712
44%




ANATOMY OF AN ENERGY-EFFICIENT WINDOW:
The frame of a new energy-efficient window will be made of vinyl or of wood
clad in vinyl or aluminum for durability. Glazing will be two panes of glass
sealed around the edges and often treated with a low-E coating to cut heat
loss. In our tests, most windows proved to be well made, able to withstand
tempera*ture extremes, wind, and rain.


The Effect of Low-E Coating:

A low-E coating on a window makes the glass act something like a two-way
mirror, reflecting heat rather than letting it escape. The image here,
captured by our infrared camera, shows the kind of difference a low-E
coating can make, blocking the heat emitted by a person standing behind a
window (we had removed the lower sash of each window). As you can see, the
low-E coating in the window on the left effectively blocks almost all the
heat, while the uncoated window on the right lets heat pass through.


ON THE CORNERS:
The last time we tested windows in 1993 we advised readers to avoid vinyl
windows whose corners are screwed together because they may start to pull
apart after being exposed to heat and cold.


We have to temper that advice. One window we tested, the Simonton
Reflections 5050, $155 has mechanically fastened corners, not welded ones
like the other windows in the group. The Reflections performed very well
overall, earning high marks for wind and rain resistance and for durability.
If we had included it in the Ratings, the Reflections would have been the
third-ranked vinyl window, similar in performance to the Lowe's Survivor
5500.


HOW TO DECODE LABELS:
The NFRC label - Alaska, California, Florida, Massachusetts, Minnesota,
Oregon, Washington, and Wisconsin require windows to be certified by the
National Fenestration Rating Council and labeled with the results. In other
states, many certified products bear the NFRC label even though it's not
required.


At present, only a window's U-factor needs to be labeled. As of January
2001, certification will require labels to display figures for solar heat
gain and visible light transmittance. Now, that information isn't always
listed on the NFRC label.


Solar heat-gain coefficient refers to the amount of heat that radiates
through the windows from outdoors. The numbers range from 0 to 1. A high
number means the window allows the sun's heat to get indoors, a desirable
trait in a northern Minnesota winter but thoroughly un*welcome in a Houston
summer.


Visible light transmittance refers to the amount of visible light entering a
room. Figures range from 0 to 1; a window with a high number will allow in
more light.


Various glazings, coatings, and frame designs can have an effect on both of
those factors.


The Energy Star label:

So far, only a few manufacturers participate in the federally sponsored
Energy Star labeling program. These labels digest the data from the NFRC
label and identify a win*dow as suitable for a specific region. You need
only look at the map on the Energy Star label to see whether the win*dow is
appropriate for your area. But only a few of the tested windows had the
Energy Star label. Some unlabeled windows may actually be more
energy-efficient.


THE TESTS BEHIND THE RATINGS:
We hired an outside lab to test windows (without screens) fitted with
double-pane glass that has a low-E coating and argon between the panes.
Material for the frame and sashes is typically aluminum- or vinyl-clad wood
or all-vinyl. The Andersen Millennium is made of extruded wood fibers and
vinyl. The Crest/me Crest-Wood has a vinyl frame, vinyl-clad wood sashes,
and interior wood trim. Overall score is based mainly on R-value, wind- and
rain-resistance, and durability. R-value indicates the window's overall
insulating value. It's more familiar than the U-factor. The higher the
R-value and the lower the U-factor; the better a window can keep your home
cool in summer and warm in winter. Performance judgments show how well the
windows kept out 25-mph wind at different outdoor temperatures and windswept
rain in laboratory tests. Durability indicates how well the windows
performed after two weeks of severe temperature fluctuations and
intermittent spraying with water Condensation shows how well the window
resists getting wet on the inside in cold weather. Ease of use covers design
of handles and such. Comments identify special features and point out
addi*tional information. Price is the estimated average. Installation is
extra.



Except as noted, most have handles. Double-hung models have tilt-in sashes.
Screens are optional. Most windows are available in stock and custom sizes.


WINDOWS - OVERALL RATINGS:
(Within types, in order of performance)


DOUBLE-HUNG WINDOWS:
Marvin Clad Ultimate

$310

Aluminum clad

Very good overall. Sash handles optional. Lip on sill may interfere with air
conditioner.



Andersen Tilt-Wash

$235

Vinyl clad

Very good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Comes
in stock sizes only. Lip on sill may interfere with air conditioner.



Pella ProLine (A Consumer Reports Best Buy)

$180

Aluminum clad

Very good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Sash
handles optional. Comes in stock sizes only.



CertainTeed Bryn Mawr II

$180

Vinyl

Very good overall. Has locks to limit sash opening and sliding halt screen.
Comes in custom sizes only. Lip on sill may interfere with air conditioner.



Andersen Narroline

$205

Vinyl clad

Very good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. No
sash-tilting feature. Comes in stock sizes only.



Pozzi Clad

$370

Aluminum clad

Very good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Comes
with full screen. Sash handles optional. Lip on sill may interfere with air
conditioner.



Andersen Millennium

$415

Composite

Very good overall. Lip on sill may interfere with air conditioner. Company
says unit is identical to Renewal, which is more widely available.



Survivor 5500 (Lowe's)

$155

Vinyl

Very good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Has
locks to limit sash opening and sliding halt screen. Lip on sill may
interfere with air conditioner



Crestline CrestWood

$235

Hybrid

Very good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests.



Alside UltraMaxx

$170

Vinyl

Good overall. Has locks to limit sash opening, and sliding half screen.
Comes in custom sizes only.



Caradco Guardian

$265

Aluminum clad

Good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Lip on sill
may interfere with air conditioner. Comes in stock sizes only.



WeatherShield Visions 2000

$240

Vinyl

Good overall. Has locks to limit sash opening.



WeatherShield WeatherShield

$220

Vinyl clad

Good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Lip on sill
may interfere with air conditioner.



Crestline VinylCrest

$195

Vinyl

Good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Lip on sill
may interfere with air conditioner.



American Craftsman 8500 (Home Depot)

$175

Vinyl

Good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Has locks
to limit sash opening and sliding halt screen. Lip on sill may interfere
with air conditioner



Wenco Series 8

$150

Vinyl

Good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Lip on sill
may interfere with air conditioner.


CASEMENT WINDOWS:
Andersen

$280

Vinyl clad

Very good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Comes
in stock sizes only.




CertainTeed Bryn Mawr II

$290

Vinyl clad

Very good overall. Some parts warped or loosened in durability tests. Comes
with full screen. Comes in custom sizes only.




- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


NEWSPAPER REPLACEMENT WINDOWS ARTICLE 12/00:
According to the Remodelors Council of the National Association of Home
Builders, replacing windows is one of the most common home-improvement
projects in the country. The most popular time to install replacement
windows is from early fall through December, but installers work through the
winter, especially if we have a warm spell. Buying new windows can be a
daunting task. Choosing the right one for your home and budget can be a job
in itself. Many of today's high-performance windows are three to four times
more energy-efficient than windows commonly installed 10 years ago. With the
improved efficiency comes lots of choices.


CUSTOM-MADE VS. STOCK WINDOWS:
Most dealers recommend custom-made replacement windows because they are made
to fit exactly in existing openings. There will be no spaces to fill in and
your viewing areas will not be reduced. Stock windows are generally used for
new home construction or additions.


LOW-EMITTANCE (LOW-E) COATINGS:
A low-E coating is a microscopically thin metal or metallic oxide coating
that is applied to the glass by the manufacturer. It helps keep heat and
ultraviolet rays from passing through the window. Virtually invisible, low-E
coatings will keep the house warmer in winter by reducing heat loss and
cooler in summer by blocking heat from the sun. Most manufacturers apply the
coating to the glass after it is made. Some manufacturers have begun
applying the coating to the glass while it is being made. The newer
application is called LoE2. Standard low-E glass has a tendency to hold heat
longer. When you're cooling your home, it takes longer to cool down if it
has low-E glass. This can be a problem in Southern states where they're more
concerned about cooling. Applying the coating while the glass is being
manufactured eliminates this problem. The newer low-E coatings are clearer
than the older low-E coatings. While most dealers recommend low-E, Consumer
Reports magazine (October 2000) says that low-E coating isn't essential in
northern climates.


GAS FILLING:
The gas in the gap between the panes determines the window's insulating
value. Plain air works and is standard in some windows. Many dealers
recommend a heavier gas such as argon. Argon makes windows more energy
efficient because it's better than air at reducing heat transfer between the
inside and the outside of the home. Some manufacturers offer more exotic
gases such as krypton for better insulation. However, this option isn't seen
very often and most dealers say it's not worth the extra cost. In a few
years, krypton may come down in price. Often the manufacturers will offer a
package that includes low-E and argon gas. The package usually costs about
$50 more a window.


DOUBLE-GLAZED WINDOWS:
Double-glazed windows have a sealed space between two panes of glass to
provide an added layer of insulation. Compared with a single pane,
double-glazing can cut heat loss nearly in half.


TRIPLE-GLAZED WINDOWS:
Triple-glazed windows have an even higher insulating value, but add to the
weight and cost of the windows. Some dealers believe it isn't worth the
extra expense for triple-glazed windows. The greatest benefit from
triple-pane is that it's a sound deadener, and unless you live close to a
highway, it isn't recommended.


WELDED FRAMES:
Most dealers recommend frames that are welded over those that are
mechanically fastened or screwed together. A welded frame is about $25 more
per window, but is a stronger frame and worth the extra money. Look for
neat, well-bonded joints at the corners of the frame.


FRAME INSULATION:
The Efficient Windows Collaborative, a group of insulation and window
manufacturers that comply with federal energy requirements, also recommends
choosing replacement window frames that are insulated. Foam insulation can
be added to the hollow areas of vinyl window frames when they are
manufactured. The least-efficient frames are metal without insulation, while
insulated vinyl, fiberglass and wood frames are more efficient.
Traditionally, aluminum has been used to create the separation between the
two panes of glass, but aluminum conducts heat and cold and sometimes causes
condensation to form. New materials are available that are better insulators
and make the overall window more efficient and result in less condensation.


AIR INFILTRATION AND AIR LEAKAGE:
Choose a window that has been tested for air infiltration. The air
infiltration rate is the amount of air that passes through a square foot of
window area under specific environmental conditions. The lower the air
infiltration rate, the lower the amount of air passing through the window
and thus the less heat loss. The Efficient Windows Collaborative recommends
selecting windows that have an air leakage rating of 0.3 or below. They
recommend selecting windows with even lower values for windy sites.


U-VALUE AND R-VALUE:
The U-value is a measure of the amount of heat that flows through the
window. The lower the U-value, the less heat will be lost through the
window. The National Fenestration Rating Council rates the energy efficiency
of windows. It recommends a U-value of 0.4 or lower. The window's U-value
should be listed on the label attached to it. You can also look at a
window's R-value or resistance factor. The R-value is similar to the rating
used in insulation. It is the inverse of the U-factor. The higher the R
factor, the greater the amount of insulation a window provides. The type of
glass, thickness, number of panes, distance between panes, as well as the
manner in which the panes are connected, all affect the R-factor performance
of the window.


SOLAR HEAT-GAIN:
Solar heat-gain is the amount of heat that radiates through windows from the
outdoors. Windows are rated in decimals from 0 to 1. A high number means the
window allows the sun's heat to get indoors, which is desirable in colder
climates but not in warmer climates.


VISIBLE LIGHT TRANSMISSION:
Visible light transmission is the amount of visible light entering a room.
Figures range from 0 to 1 and the higher the number, the more light allowed
in.


ENERGY LABELS:
Alaska, California, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Oregon, Washington and
Wisconsin require windows to be certified by the NFRC and labeled with the
results. Many windows bear the NFRC label even though it's not required.
Currently, only the window's U-factor needs to be on the NFRC label. But as
of January 2001, certification will require labels to display figures for
solar heat gain and visible light transmittance.


ENERGY STAR LABELS:
Some window manufacturers participate in the government-sponsored Energy
Star labeling program. The Energy Star labels use data from the NFRC label
to identify windows suitable for specific regions. You can look at the map
on the Energy Star label and determine whether the window may be efficient
for your area.


CREDIBILITY OF CONTRACTOR:
The installation is as important as the windows you choose. A high
percentage of a replacement window's efficiency is in how it's installed.
It's important to choose an installer with a proven track record.


WARRANTIES:
Be sure to understand the manufacturer's warranties. Lots of companies claim
to have a "lifetime warranty," but you can't assume that lifetime warranty
means everything. Read the warranty and determine whether it covers such
things as screens, hardware and glass. Also, it's important to know whether
the warranty is pro-rated or whether you'll get a replacement at no cost if
there is a problem.


COST:
Depending on the features you choose, you can pay anywhere from $150 to $500
a window. Some owners choose to do all their windows at once, and some
choose to do a few at a time. Some prices include installation and some do
not. Be sure to check.











"Pawel" wrote in message
...
could you post those articles, or at least send them to me too at

I am looking to replace 4 windows and am trying to decide if to attempt to
do it on my own. I was thinking of the gliding window, since other windows
in our home are tall and narrow crankcase windows.
I live in CT and the windows are on the hight second floor so have to be
installed from inside only.

thanks for any advice, it is so frustrating that i cannot get any quote on
line without having a sales person come for an 90 min appointment.

thanks

pawel


"Bob" wrote in message
...
I email you a couple of articles about windows. They're from 2000, but a
lot
of the info still applies.

wrote in message
oups.com...
What type of windows do you recommend? I was told that the double hung
windows were the best. How about the triple pane windows?

Bobb that is a complete review by Consumers Reports but one flaw in
their Payback calculations is our much higher gas prices which have a
continued long term outlook of faster rising prices. So your payback is
much less then they state.