I am installing a humidifier in my house, and I need to tap into the water
line. My builder used PEX plumbing and, of course, I don't have any of the
crimping tools necessary for working on PEX. But, there is a length 3/4"
copper pipe that goes between my water heater intake and the main PEX water
line above. The total length of this copper is only about 2 or 3 feet. I
would like to solder in a tap for the humidfier connection into this copper
section, but I am concerned about the PEX that this pipe is connected to.
Does anyone know how far I have to be away from the PEX connection before I
can safely sweat a fitting into the copper pipe? If I just wrap a wet towel
near the PEX connection (between the crimp and the joint to be soldered),
will this be an adequate heat sink to avoid damage to it?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
--
__________________________
Replace 'NOSPAM' with 'duddles' to reply by email.

try checking local plumbing supply or home depot, they probably rent
the PEX tool

D Duddles wrote:
I am installing a humidifier in my house, and I need to tap into the water
line. My builder used PEX plumbing and, of course, I don't have any of the
crimping tools necessary for working on PEX. But, there is a length 3/4"
copper pipe that goes between my water heater intake and the main PEX water
line above. The total length of this copper is only about 2 or 3 feet. I
would like to solder in a tap for the humidfier connection into this copper
section, but I am concerned about the PEX that this pipe is connected to.
Does anyone know how far I have to be away from the PEX connection before I
can safely sweat a fitting into the copper pipe? If I just wrap a wet towel
near the PEX connection (between the crimp and the joint to be soldered),
will this be an adequate heat sink to avoid damage to it?

Yes. If you're 12" away and use a wet towel you have nothing to worry
about.

R

Is there some reason that you can't use a saddle valve?

"D Duddles" wrote in message
...
I am installing a humidifier in my house, and I need to tap into the water
line. My builder used PEX plumbing and, of course, I don't have any of
the
crimping tools necessary for working on PEX. But, there is a length 3/4"
copper pipe that goes between my water heater intake and the main PEX
water
line above. The total length of this copper is only about 2 or 3 feet. I
would like to solder in a tap for the humidfier connection into this
copper
section, but I am concerned about the PEX that this pipe is connected to.
Does anyone know how far I have to be away from the PEX connection before
I
can safely sweat a fitting into the copper pipe? If I just wrap a wet
towel
near the PEX connection (between the crimp and the joint to be soldered),
will this be an adequate heat sink to avoid damage to it?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
--
__________________________
Replace 'NOSPAM' with 'duddles' to reply by email.

"D Duddles" wrote in message
...

Does anyone know how far I have to be away from the PEX connection before
I can safely sweat a fitting into the copper pipe? If I just wrap a wet
towel near the PEX connection (between the crimp and the joint to be
soldered), will this be an adequate heat sink to avoid damage to it?

I'd guess you are OK but if you want to be sure, wrap a couple of wet rag
around the copper away from where you will solder. That will make a heat
sink.

I'd look at using compression fittings made for pex tubing. My local
hardware store carries them.

Bob wrote:
Is there some reason that you can't use a saddle valve?

Some codes prohibit them.

R

Didn't know that, but I believe you, because some codes are real stupid. If
it isn't getting inspected, I'd do it anyway.

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...
Bob wrote:
Is there some reason that you can't use a saddle valve?

Some codes prohibit them.

R

Can't you unscrew the PEX from the copper? You've got to get the water
out of the copper before you cut it/solder it.

D Duddles wrote:
I am installing a humidifier in my house, and I need to tap into the water
line. My builder used PEX plumbing and, of course, I don't have any of the
crimping tools necessary for working on PEX. But, there is a length 3/4"
copper pipe that goes between my water heater intake and the main PEX water
line above. The total length of this copper is only about 2 or 3 feet. I
would like to solder in a tap for the humidfier connection into this copper
section, but I am concerned about the PEX that this pipe is connected to.
Does anyone know how far I have to be away from the PEX connection before I
can safely sweat a fitting into the copper pipe? If I just wrap a wet towel
near the PEX connection (between the crimp and the joint to be soldered),
will this be an adequate heat sink to avoid damage to it?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

This is all you need. http://www.cashacme.com/sharkbite.html


"D Duddles" wrote in message
...
I am installing a humidifier in my house, and I need to tap into the water
line. My builder used PEX plumbing and, of course, I don't have any of the
crimping tools necessary for working on PEX. But, there is a length 3/4"
copper pipe that goes between my water heater intake and the main PEX water
line above. The total length of this copper is only about 2 or 3 feet. I
would like to solder in a tap for the humidfier connection into this copper
section, but I am concerned about the PEX that this pipe is connected to.
Does anyone know how far I have to be away from the PEX connection before I
can safely sweat a fitting into the copper pipe? If I just wrap a wet
towel near the PEX connection (between the crimp and the joint to be
soldered), will this be an adequate heat sink to avoid damage to it?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
--
__________________________
Replace 'NOSPAM' with 'duddles' to reply by email.

On Mon, 2 Jan 2006 00:33:44 -0500, "D Duddles"
wrote:

I am installing a humidifier in my house, and I need to tap into the water
line. My builder used PEX plumbing and, of course, I don't have any of the
crimping tools necessary for working on PEX. But, there is a length 3/4"
copper pipe that goes between my water heater intake and the main PEX water
line above. The total length of this copper is only about 2 or 3 feet. I
would like to solder in a tap for the humidfier connection into this copper
section, but I am concerned about the PEX that this pipe is connected to.
Does anyone know how far I have to be away from the PEX connection before I
can safely sweat a fitting into the copper pipe? If I just wrap a wet towel
near the PEX connection (between the crimp and the joint to be soldered),
will this be an adequate heat sink to avoid damage to it?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I am going to ask YOU a question.
I just saw that PEX being installed on one of the TV home improvement
shows. I can see that the tools are probably costly. But my question
is this.
Is that stuff solidly installable. In other words, does it sag
between hangers? Can it be used on HOT water? Is there any advantage
over PVC pipe?

Personally, I was not highly impressed with what I saw. The stuff
looks flimsy, probably has a relatively short life expectancy, and
seems easy to damage. Not to mention the need for special tools. It
also appears that the fittings can not be taken apart. Just
curious....

Personally I will only use metallic pipe as in copper, or galv. steel.
I dont care for house floods, and expect my plumbing to last at least
30 years. I have never been impressed with PVC for water supply
either (it's great for drainage and sewer). But the PEX looks even
less durable than PVC.

wrote in message

Is that stuff solidly installable. In other words, does it sag
between hangers?

It is really kind of stiff although it can be bent eaier than soft copper
tubing.

Can it be used on HOT water?

Yes, it is good to 180 degrees. I have a section in my baseboard heat as
I've had a problem wiht copper in a certain place twice.


Is there any advantage
over PVC pipe?

Easier to install, less fittings as it come son long coils and can be run
around gentle bend and through walls with no spicing or fittings every 10
feet.


Personally, I was not highly impressed with what I saw. The stuff
looks flimsy, probably has a relatively short life expectancy, and
seems easy to damage.

Not as flimsy as you think. Life span is over 100 years and not all that
readily damaged. You can puncture copper tubing with a nail just as easily.
It will take a bit of freezing and not split, an advantage over copper. Why
not handle a piece of it before you decide how strong or weak it may be?
http://www.pmengineer.com/CDA/Articl...,62120,00.html
Wirsbo PEX is durable, corrosion resistant and has a life expectancy of over
100 years.



Not to mention the need for special tools. It
also appears that the fittings can not be taken apart. Just
curious....

You can use compression fittings. You can easily splice into it. Right
now, the tools are expensive for the homeowner that may want to make a cut
in a line every five years, but then, compression fitting solve that. Tools
will become cheaper in the future just like everything else.


Personally I will only use metallic pipe as in copper, or galv. steel.
I dont care for house floods, and expect my plumbing to last at least
30 years. I have never been impressed with PVC for water supply
either (it's great for drainage and sewer). But the PEX looks even
less durable than PVC.

You are basing your assessment on what???? Time to open your mind and let
some new information in. I expect my plumbing to last much more than 30
years too. I'd definitely use pex in my next house

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 2 Jan 2006 00:33:44 -0500, "D Duddles"
wrote:

I am installing a humidifier in my house, and I need to tap into the water
line. My builder used PEX plumbing and, of course, I don't have any of
the
crimping tools necessary for working on PEX. But, there is a length 3/4"
copper pipe that goes between my water heater intake and the main PEX
water
line above. The total length of this copper is only about 2 or 3 feet. I
would like to solder in a tap for the humidfier connection into this
copper
section, but I am concerned about the PEX that this pipe is connected to.
Does anyone know how far I have to be away from the PEX connection before
I
can safely sweat a fitting into the copper pipe? If I just wrap a wet
towel
near the PEX connection (between the crimp and the joint to be soldered),
will this be an adequate heat sink to avoid damage to it?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I am going to ask YOU a question.
I just saw that PEX being installed on one of the TV home improvement
shows. I can see that the tools are probably costly. But my question
is this.
Is that stuff solidly installable. In other words, does it sag
between hangers? Can it be used on HOT water? Is there any advantage
over PVC pipe?

Personally, I was not highly impressed with what I saw. The stuff
looks flimsy, probably has a relatively short life expectancy, and
seems easy to damage. Not to mention the need for special tools. It
also appears that the fittings can not be taken apart. Just
curious....

Personally I will only use metallic pipe as in copper, or galv. steel.
I dont care for house floods, and expect my plumbing to last at least
30 years. I have never been impressed with PVC for water supply
either (it's great for drainage and sewer). But the PEX looks even
less durable than PVC.


Like you, I'm also an old fart .

However, you need to get with the program.

Google up Wirsbo and check out their "WRITTEN" 25 year warranty on AquaPex.
Ever try and get a copper pipe or fitting mfg., to cover a defective piece?
Forget about it.

If you are indeed an old fart, 25 years is long enough. If the special tool
"an expander" is
too pricey at about $125.00, consider using another new fitting called a
Shark Bite from
Cash Acme.

Those two items alone will make your life a lot easier, I know they have
mine.

Google up Wirsbo and check out their "WRITTEN" 25 year warranty on AquaPex.
Ever try and get a copper pipe or fitting mfg., to cover a defective piece?
Forget about it.

If you are indeed an old fart, 25 years is long enough.

Well, (1) it took 30 years for the copper tubes in my concrete slab to
rot out. (2) Will AquaPex be around in 25.1 years? (3) will they
have assets so you can sue?

FWIW, I went through this decision in 2001 and came up with "Use Copper"
and chop slots in the slab to get passed doors.

And, check national, state and local building codes to see if PEX is
permitted for fresh water. If you're doing heating lines, you will
also want to do fresh water at the same time.

"Stubby" wrote in message
. ..


Well, (1) it took 30 years for the copper tubes in my concrete slab to rot
out. (2) Will AquaPex be around in 25.1 years? (3) will they have
assets so you can sue?

Pex is probably the best for that application. You won't have to be doing it
over in 30 years. Who did you sue for your copper replacement? Were they
willing to pay? Why would you replace copper with copper knowing it will
corrode again in 30 years, maybe less?



And, check national, state and local building codes to see if PEX is
permitted for fresh water. If you're doing heating lines, you will also
want to do fresh water at the same time.

Yes, it is permitted.

PEX has been used in England for over thirty years with no problems.
Most people who have never heard of it confuse it with the black tubing
used about 15 years ago that gave so much problems.

I saw a test done with PEX that convinced me. This person took a 12
inch piece and filled it up with water and then clamped off both ends
with the closed pex fittings. Then it was frozen. The PEX didn't bust
at all. Then it was allowed to thaw out and put under a propane torch
until it was scorced a bit. Still didn't leak. Then this piece was
opened and put in line under pressure of 100 PSI. Still didn't leak or
budge. I've seen copper develop pinhole leaks in the worst place but
this PEX is still going fine. Perhaps you too would need to see these
tests to believe it.


J



Stubby wrote:


Google up Wirsbo and check out their "WRITTEN" 25 year warranty on
AquaPex.
Ever try and get a copper pipe or fitting mfg., to cover a defective
piece? Forget about it.

If you are indeed an old fart, 25 years is long enough.


Well, (1) it took 30 years for the copper tubes in my concrete slab to
rot out. (2) Will AquaPex be around in 25.1 years? (3) will they
have assets so you can sue?

FWIW, I went through this decision in 2001 and came up with "Use Copper"
and chop slots in the slab to get passed doors.

And, check national, state and local building codes to see if PEX is
permitted for fresh water. If you're doing heating lines, you will
also want to do fresh water at the same time.

replying to hallerb, Ron wrote:
hallerb wrote:

try checking local plumbing supply or home depot, they probably rent
the PEX tool


I know a tobacco chewing plumber friend who once told me he'd never use
anything but copper. Well he's changed his mind. The tools needed aren't
that costly, about the same as a good torch & pipe cutters. Anyway, thanks
for the info that I picked up. Soldering next to pex pipe doesn't look
like a wise thing to do.........just hate copper compression fittings
though.

--

On 3/14/2015 1:44 PM, Ron wrote:


I know a tobacco chewing plumber friend who once told me he'd never use
anything but copper. Well he's changed his mind. The tools needed aren't
that costly, about the same as a good torch & pipe cutters. Anyway, thanks
for the info that I picked up. Soldering next to pex pipe doesn't look
like a wise thing to do.........just hate copper compression fittings
though.

How close to the PEX? You can melt it at 230F or more, but you won't
start a fire with it.

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 13:49:34 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 3/14/2015 1:44 PM, Ron wrote:


I know a tobacco chewing plumber friend who once told me he'd never use
anything but copper. Well he's changed his mind. The tools needed aren't
that costly, about the same as a good torch & pipe cutters. Anyway, thanks
for the info that I picked up. Soldering next to pex pipe doesn't look
like a wise thing to do.........just hate copper compression fittings
though.

How close to the PEX? You can melt it at 230F or more, but you won't
start a fire with it.

Simply sweat the fitting on the copper and then attach the PEX to the
fitting with a crimp ring.

http://b.vimeocdn.com/ts/372/793/372793668_640.jpg

On Sat, 14 Mar 2015 17:44:02 +0000, Ron
wrote:

replying to hallerb, Ron wrote:
hallerb wrote:

try checking local plumbing supply or home depot, they probably rent
the PEX tool


I know a tobacco chewing plumber friend who once told me he'd never use
anything but copper. Well he's changed his mind. The tools needed aren't
that costly, about the same as a good torch & pipe cutters. Anyway, thanks
for the info that I picked up. Soldering next to pex pipe doesn't look
like a wise thing to do.........just hate copper compression fittings
though.
That's what SharkBites are for - - -