Have a saddle valve on some copper pipe that was put there (by prev.
home owner) to provide water to the refrigerator's icemaker. We have a
different fridge with a different size hookup, so I bought a copper
tubing kit to replace the existing plastic line and fittings. The
saddle valve that's in there now leaks (out the tube, not onto the
ground). You turn it off all the way and it still dribbles a bit. Not
a lot- it takes probably 24hrs to nearly fill up a 12oz water bottle
it's in right now. Of course, once I connect it to the fridge the
valve will be open and the icemaker itself will valve the line
open/closed. Problem not solved, but avoided.

The kit that I bought has a new saddle valve in it. Are saddle valves
the type of things where you have one shot at? i.e., if i pull the
saddle valve off the copper pipe, is that section of pipe now ruined
and it will be impossible to get anything to seal up to it now,
including a saddle valve, *even* if it's identical in all sizes and
dimensions?

I'm torn as to whether i should fix it now or leave it until it's
really necessary to fool with it.

TIA!

"phaeton" wrote in message
oups.com...
Have a saddle valve on some copper pipe that was put there (by prev.
home owner) to provide water to the refrigerator's icemaker. We have a
different fridge with a different size hookup, so I bought a copper
tubing kit to replace the existing plastic line and fittings. The
saddle valve that's in there now leaks (out the tube, not onto the
ground). You turn it off all the way and it still dribbles a bit. Not
a lot- it takes probably 24hrs to nearly fill up a 12oz water bottle
it's in right now. Of course, once I connect it to the fridge the
valve will be open and the icemaker itself will valve the line
open/closed. Problem not solved, but avoided.

The kit that I bought has a new saddle valve in it. Are saddle valves
the type of things where you have one shot at? i.e., if i pull the
saddle valve off the copper pipe, is that section of pipe now ruined
and it will be impossible to get anything to seal up to it now,
including a saddle valve, *even* if it's identical in all sizes and
dimensions?

I'm torn as to whether i should fix it now or leave it until it's
really necessary to fool with it.

You should be fine; there is nothing permanent about them.
Just be sure to shut the water off first and relieve the pressure.

relieve the pressure

Since this is downstairs and there is upstairs plumbing, does that mean
opening the a sink valve on both levels to let the water in the pipes
upstairs drain all the way down also?

Any special attention to the gas boiler and gas waterheater when
turning the water off? I suppose that if either of those decide to
drain out and then fire up it wouldn't be good for them.....

thx

"phaeton" wrote in message
oups.com...
relieve the pressure

Since this is downstairs and there is upstairs plumbing, does that mean
opening the a sink valve on both levels to let the water in the pipes
upstairs drain all the way down also?

That should do it

Any special attention to the gas boiler and gas waterheater when
turning the water off? I suppose that if either of those decide to
drain out and then fire up it wouldn't be good for them.....

Won't matter for the water heater; though there is a small possibility that
the heater will put some pressure in the line you are working on. It is not
a big deal either way, but you might as well turn down the heater
temperature to stop it from turning on.

I don't know anything about boilers, but would guess that just turning your
thermostat down will take care of it.

Turn off power to boiler and water heater while the water is off...

Make sure both have water back on before reapplying power.

Probably not all that neccesary cause its a pretty quick repair but
better safe than sorry.

On 23 Dec 2005 09:34:24 -0800, "phaeton"
wrote:

Have a saddle valve on some copper pipe that was put there (by prev.
home owner) to provide water to the refrigerator's icemaker. We have a
different fridge with a different size hookup, so I bought a copper

Good. Polyethylene can spring a leak at any time. Mine did and I had
gone of my way not to put any kinks or sharp bends in it. Sprayed all
over my basement file cabinet, which had one drawer open.

Put the point of the new saddle valve in the hole from the old saddle
valve. After you get it positioned and you clamping it a little bit,
you can back off the needle so you don't make the hole bigger than it
was. That way, in theory, you can turn off the water at the saddle
valve, although after a decade I have trouble doing that..

tubing kit to replace the existing plastic line and fittings. The

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

Yes, you can replace the saddle valve. Sounds like you need someone more
experienced to work with you.

A couple of hints: Find the puncture hole, and drill about 1/8 or slightly
larger drill hole at that point.

Close the valve so the pointy thing sticks into the tube, and then gently
install. Wiggle the valve around so the pointy thing is in the center of the
drilled hole.

Expect to have to tighten the nut around the valve shaft after you've got it
all through.

There's a few other hints, but you'll have to learn them the hard way like
everyone else. This is your mission. Do not fail.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"phaeton" wrote in message
oups.com...
Have a saddle valve on some copper pipe that was put there (by prev.
home owner) to provide water to the refrigerator's icemaker. We have a
different fridge with a different size hookup, so I bought a copper
tubing kit to replace the existing plastic line and fittings. The
saddle valve that's in there now leaks (out the tube, not onto the
ground). You turn it off all the way and it still dribbles a bit. Not
a lot- it takes probably 24hrs to nearly fill up a 12oz water bottle
it's in right now. Of course, once I connect it to the fridge the
valve will be open and the icemaker itself will valve the line
open/closed. Problem not solved, but avoided.

The kit that I bought has a new saddle valve in it. Are saddle valves
the type of things where you have one shot at? i.e., if i pull the
saddle valve off the copper pipe, is that section of pipe now ruined
and it will be impossible to get anything to seal up to it now,
including a saddle valve, *even* if it's identical in all sizes and
dimensions?

I'm torn as to whether i should fix it now or leave it until it's
really necessary to fool with it.

TIA!

According to phaeton :
Have a saddle valve on some copper pipe that was put there (by prev.
home owner) to provide water to the refrigerator's icemaker. We have a
different fridge with a different size hookup, so I bought a copper
tubing kit to replace the existing plastic line and fittings. The
saddle valve that's in there now leaks (out the tube, not onto the
ground). You turn it off all the way and it still dribbles a bit. Not
a lot- it takes probably 24hrs to nearly fill up a 12oz water bottle
it's in right now. Of course, once I connect it to the fridge the
valve will be open and the icemaker itself will valve the line
open/closed. Problem not solved, but avoided.

The kit that I bought has a new saddle valve in it. Are saddle valves
the type of things where you have one shot at? i.e., if i pull the
saddle valve off the copper pipe, is that section of pipe now ruined
and it will be impossible to get anything to seal up to it now,
including a saddle valve, *even* if it's identical in all sizes and
dimensions?

Saddle valves always leak eventually. Eventually out the side.

You're okay for the time being, but if you get to the point where
you want to replace the saddle valve, replace it with a T and
a real valve, and appropriate reducers to the tubing.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

"phaeton" wrote in message
oups.com...
Have a saddle valve on some copper pipe that was put there (by prev.
home owner) to provide water to the refrigerator's icemaker. We have a
different fridge with a different size hookup, so I bought a copper
tubing kit to replace the existing plastic line and fittings. The
saddle valve that's in there now leaks (out the tube, not onto the
ground). You turn it off all the way and it still dribbles a bit. Not
a lot- it takes probably 24hrs to nearly fill up a 12oz water bottle
it's in right now. Of course, once I connect it to the fridge the
valve will be open and the icemaker itself will valve the line
open/closed. Problem not solved, but avoided.

The kit that I bought has a new saddle valve in it. Are saddle valves
the type of things where you have one shot at? i.e., if i pull the
saddle valve off the copper pipe, is that section of pipe now ruined
and it will be impossible to get anything to seal up to it now,
including a saddle valve, *even* if it's identical in all sizes and
dimensions?

I'm torn as to whether i should fix it now or leave it until it's
really necessary to fool with it.

Ya Saddle valves are replaceable.
Probably not the answer you were looking for but I replace every one I have
come across with a 1/4 turn ball valve fitting. Even when a kit comes with a
new saddle valve I won't use it.
Of course you must know how to solder pipe fittings, and the 1/4 turn valves
are more expensive, but well worth the trouble IMHO.
That goes for all the faucet, toilet, dishwasher shutoffs in the house as
well.
Kevin

This is Turtle.

Install a new needle valve by it'self and run the water to the new
refrigerator from it. Now like chris said you should get new fitting
and tee into the line and do away with these Michey Mouse needle
valves. It would make a much better job here.

now take the needle valve that leaks through the valve and go to the
hard ware store and get you a compression cap to put on the old needle
valve and your though with fooling with it.

Now if this is a needle valve your going to use for the water to be
sent to the refrigerator as ice maker and water in the door. Whirlpool
states in there service manual that needle valves will not supply
enough water for the ice maker to work properly. They recommend that
you have a full open gate or ball valve to be at the pipe source for
the water and not a needle valve. Just a thought here.

TURTLE

Yes, but there are two types. One type is self-piercing, the other requires
drilling a small hole. If you have the type that needs to be drilled, use a
hand drill (not electric) to drill the hole. Be sure to turn of the water
and relieve pressure by opening a cold water tap somewhere.

hire the plumber to replace the old wax toilet seal, install an
anti-freeze hosecock, and install the icemaker, and you'll feel like
you got your money's worth.