disconnect thermostat disconnected completely. if the two wires are
touched together, your system should operate normally calling for heat.
if you separate the wires, the system should stop calling for heat.
looks like you're spending too much time on the wire colors. if room is
cold and RH closes across C as tested with the thermostat calling for
heat with your ohmmeter, you should also see that circuit open when the
thermostat is warm.
call that toll free service number in the morning.

I'd return the thermostat and get any of a number of programmable stats that
don't require the common . Honeywell, White Rogers, and Robertshaw all make
them



"Jack Benimble" wrote in message
...
The problem is the chattering sound. I already called customer
support and they said I needed to connect the common wire to the C
terminal, but I don't have a common wire. Only 2 wires, one red and
one white. I told them that and they said to "fish" a blue wire from
my boiler/transformer and connect it, but there isn't one.

I have the old thermostat back in place and the system works fine. I
just want to solve this chattering noise with the new thermostat so I
can use it.

Jack


On 2 Dec 2005 01:41:22 -0800, "buffalobill"
wrote:

disconnect thermostat disconnected completely. if the two wires are
touched together, your system should operate normally calling for heat.
if you separate the wires, the system should stop calling for heat.
looks like you're spending too much time on the wire colors. if room is
cold and RH closes across C as tested with the thermostat calling for
heat with your ohmmeter, you should also see that circuit open when the
thermostat is warm.
call that toll free service number in the morning.

You got the wrong thermostat for your setup. You need a "power
robbing" thermostat, but i doubt if they make one with a touch screen.
You have tywo options: !) put the old thermostat back on; 2) run the
third wire. The R is the hot, the W is the load and the C is the
common. You must have R and C to power the electronics in the
thermostat properly. R to W powers the load, that brings the heat on.
If you use R to W to power the electronics, when you call for heat,
there is no voltage across R to W to keep the electronics powered, so
the relay that brings on the load drops out. Then you have voltage
again and the relay pulls in again. In-Out-In-Out, Chatter,
Chatter,Chatter. If you leave the new thermostat in you will ruin it
and the boiler controls. Then you will need a service tech, which you
should have done in the first place. He will know if there is a
thermostat available for your application.

I understand the desire to do some things yourself, but messing with
stuff you could damage that you don't understand is not a good way to
save money. BTW, they should NOT give you your money back on the
thermostat, since it was your error.

Don't mess with electricity since you don't understand it. You might
get hurt. Or get some training before you tackle your next project.

Stretch

I have a Rite-temp from H-Depot and it can run on battery power alone(does
not need C wire) works great with 2 wire system.


"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
I'd return the thermostat and get any of a number of programmable stats
that don't require the common . Honeywell, White Rogers, and Robertshaw
all make them



"Jack Benimble" wrote in message
...
The problem is the chattering sound. I already called customer
support and they said I needed to connect the common wire to the C
terminal, but I don't have a common wire. Only 2 wires, one red and
one white. I told them that and they said to "fish" a blue wire from
my boiler/transformer and connect it, but there isn't one.

I have the old thermostat back in place and the system works fine. I
just want to solve this chattering noise with the new thermostat so I
can use it.

Jack


On 2 Dec 2005 01:41:22 -0800, "buffalobill"
wrote:

disconnect thermostat disconnected completely. if the two wires are
touched together, your system should operate normally calling for heat.
if you separate the wires, the system should stop calling for heat.
looks like you're spending too much time on the wire colors. if room is
cold and RH closes across C as tested with the thermostat calling for
heat with your ohmmeter, you should also see that circuit open when the
thermostat is warm.
call that toll free service number in the morning.

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
Jack, you can't post pictures directly. Use a free service like
photobucket


Sure he can-he just did it. But he shouldn't have.

They're in y-enc

Jack, I understand your dilemma. The thing is wired in a peculiar fashion.
Normally a zone valve would be powered by a separate 24 volt transformer.
One leg of the 24 volts goes directly to the valve and the other leg is
broken through your series 80 (two wire) thermostat. When the zone valve is
completely open, there is an auxiliary switch (two red wires) built into the
zone valve that connect to the "TT" or T-TV terminals in the aquastat relay
to energize the circulator and burner. In your situation they used the
transformer built into the aquastat relay, to power the zone valve. The
infamous third wire you need would have to be connected at the aquastat
relay to either the T or TV terminal, but without an internal wiring diagram
of the relay, I can't tell which. Run the third wire and try each



"Jack Benimble" wrote in message
m...
RBM (or anyone who can help):

Actually, it seems that the wire from the "W" terminal in the Aquastat
is going directly to the thermostat. This is contrary to the wiring
diagram, which indicates that the white wire which leads to the
thermostat should be connected to the "T" terminal on the Aquastat.

But the white wire from the "T" terminal on the Aquastat is connected
to a terminal on the motorized valve. (See pictures)

Should it be this way? It seems to work, but might you know why they
did it this way?

The motorized valve is a Honeywell. At the end of this message I have
posted links to pictures of the valve and wires I have carefully
labeled.

You'll notice that there is a second motorized valve that seems to be
unused. When I had some repairs done on the boiler, the technician
mentioned that the system probably used to have 2 zones, but now both
zones work from the one motorized valve... At any rate, all the rooms
in my house get heat, so I guess it is working.

You suggested: "If your thermostat wires are connected to terminals T
and TV and you have a terminal marked W, connect your common wire to
it."

Is this correct advice? Even though the white wire to the thermostat
is also connected to the W terminal? This may not be applicable anyway
since my white thermostat wire is connected to the W terminal instead
of the T.

I just want to know for sure which is the common that I need to run to
the thermostat.

There is a short red wire (jumper?) between 2 terminals on the bottom
of the motorized valve (see pictures). I carefully traced where all
the wires lead (with the power shut off, of course) and carefully
labeled everything in the pictures.

The 5th picture is the electronic schematic of the motorized valve. I
included it so you'll know what each terminal on the bottom end switch
of the valve is. Some of the text in the diagram was washed out by my
camera's flash, so I had to manually replace it in my image editing
program.

Can you tell me how I should proceed, based on these new pictures?

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve1.jpg

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve2.jpg

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve3.jpg

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve4.jpg

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve5.jpg

If you need anything else, please let me know. I should also mention
that I do have a multi-meter in case it can be used to test certain
lines...

Jack

I tried to locate an internal wiring diagram, but was unsuccessful. In
similar relays the third wire you have would connect to the "TV" terminal



"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
Jack, I understand your dilemma. The thing is wired in a peculiar fashion.
Normally a zone valve would be powered by a separate 24 volt transformer.
One leg of the 24 volts goes directly to the valve and the other leg is
broken through your series 80 (two wire) thermostat. When the zone valve
is completely open, there is an auxiliary switch (two red wires) built
into the zone valve that connect to the "TT" or T-TV terminals in the
aquastat relay to energize the circulator and burner. In your situation
they used the transformer built into the aquastat relay, to power the zone
valve. The infamous third wire you need would have to be connected at the
aquastat relay to either the T or TV terminal, but without an internal
wiring diagram of the relay, I can't tell which. Run the third wire and
try each



"Jack Benimble" wrote in message
m...
RBM (or anyone who can help):

Actually, it seems that the wire from the "W" terminal in the Aquastat
is going directly to the thermostat. This is contrary to the wiring
diagram, which indicates that the white wire which leads to the
thermostat should be connected to the "T" terminal on the Aquastat.

But the white wire from the "T" terminal on the Aquastat is connected
to a terminal on the motorized valve. (See pictures)

Should it be this way? It seems to work, but might you know why they
did it this way?

The motorized valve is a Honeywell. At the end of this message I have
posted links to pictures of the valve and wires I have carefully
labeled.

You'll notice that there is a second motorized valve that seems to be
unused. When I had some repairs done on the boiler, the technician
mentioned that the system probably used to have 2 zones, but now both
zones work from the one motorized valve... At any rate, all the rooms
in my house get heat, so I guess it is working.

You suggested: "If your thermostat wires are connected to terminals T
and TV and you have a terminal marked W, connect your common wire to
it."

Is this correct advice? Even though the white wire to the thermostat
is also connected to the W terminal? This may not be applicable anyway
since my white thermostat wire is connected to the W terminal instead
of the T.

I just want to know for sure which is the common that I need to run to
the thermostat.

There is a short red wire (jumper?) between 2 terminals on the bottom
of the motorized valve (see pictures). I carefully traced where all
the wires lead (with the power shut off, of course) and carefully
labeled everything in the pictures.

The 5th picture is the electronic schematic of the motorized valve. I
included it so you'll know what each terminal on the bottom end switch
of the valve is. Some of the text in the diagram was washed out by my
camera's flash, so I had to manually replace it in my image editing
program.

Can you tell me how I should proceed, based on these new pictures?

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve1.jpg

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve2.jpg

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve3.jpg

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve4.jpg

http://server5.theimagehosting.com/i...img=Valve5.jpg

If you need anything else, please let me know. I should also mention
that I do have a multi-meter in case it can be used to test certain
lines...

Jack