I just bought a Salton tabletop two element cooktop. Cute little
thing and it runs off a regular 120Vac supply. I don't see any
wattage rating for one 7.5 inch diameter and one 5.5 inch dia hit
plate. The heat build-up is a kind of slow . Heat from the 7.5" plate
barely keeps the veggie soup aboil in a pan. But I can live with that
and the appliance is the ideal size and shape for a basement kitchen
nook. Its a keeper. Only $25.

Ok. I need just the technical explanation, not alarmists hysteria
about blowing the world up.

What will happen if I plug it into a 220Vac power supply instead, the
desire being that I would like it to heat up faster and hotter? A
cooktop is a resistance device and they don't make hot plates with
different materials for a 110V plate that will melt or catch fire at
220V. The obvious limitation will likely be overloading the control
(knob) mechanism causing it to overheat or to blow, therefore
constituting a fire hazard. But what if I replace them with 220V
controls? Will that work? I know that will void the appliance
warranty (who cares at $25) and my house insurance if it causes an
house fire. But I can also experiment by having it in the backyard
where a fire. won't hurt anything.

Back to the question. Will it work and what are the downsides?

According to PaPaPeng :
What will happen if I plug it into a 220Vac power supply instead, the
desire being that I would like it to heat up faster and hotter? A
cooktop is a resistance device and they don't make hot plates with
different materials for a 110V plate that will melt or catch fire at
220V. The obvious limitation will likely be overloading the control
(knob) mechanism causing it to overheat or to blow, therefore
constituting a fire hazard. But what if I replace them with 220V
controls? Will that work? I know that will void the appliance
warranty (who cares at $25) and my house insurance if it causes an
house fire. But I can also experiment by having it in the backyard
where a fire. won't hurt anything.

Back to the question. Will it work and what are the downsides?

You'll probably burn out the elements. While the thermostat
_may_ prevent it from being an immediate meltdown, driving
double the rated amps through the elements will be very hard on them.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Years ago I was on an archeological dig in Israel. My razor was 120v and
the Israeli voltage is 240v. However, they deliberately were dropping the
voltage to conserve energy so I figured my razor ought to be okay.

It went up in a blue flash and smoked like crazy. I expect your cooktop
will do the same.

I have done exactly the opposite successfully; I had to make room in my
circuit box, so I changed a seldom used 240v heating circuit to 120v. The
heaters don't product much heat, but that just means they run more.

wrote:

...Doubling the voltage will square the heat output

Wow... (1500)^2 = 2.25 megawatts.

Nick

PaPaPeng wrote:
I just bought a Salton tabletop two element cooktop. Cute little
thing and it runs off a regular 120Vac supply. I don't see any
wattage rating for one 7.5 inch diameter and one 5.5 inch dia hit
plate. The heat build-up is a kind of slow . Heat from the 7.5" plate
barely keeps the veggie soup aboil in a pan. But I can live with that
and the appliance is the ideal size and shape for a basement kitchen
nook. Its a keeper. Only $25.

Ok. I need just the technical explanation, not alarmists hysteria
about blowing the world up.

No you won't blow up the world, but you may burn down yours.

Where did you get the information that lead you to "they don't make hot
plates with different materials for a 110V plate that will melt or catch
fire at 220V."


What will happen if I plug it into a 220Vac power supply instead, the
desire being that I would like it to heat up faster and hotter? A
cooktop is a resistance device and they don't make hot plates with
different materials for a 110V plate that will melt or catch fire at
220V. The obvious limitation will likely be overloading the control
(knob) mechanism causing it to overheat or to blow, therefore
constituting a fire hazard. But what if I replace them with 220V
controls? Will that work? I know that will void the appliance
warranty (who cares at $25) and my house insurance if it causes an
house fire. But I can also experiment by having it in the backyard
where a fire. won't hurt anything.

Back to the question. Will it work and what are the downsides?

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

"PaPaPeng" wrote in message
What will happen if I plug it into a 220Vac power supply instead, the
desire being that I would like it to heat up faster and hotter? A
cooktop is a resistance device and they don't make hot plates with
different materials for a 110V plate that will melt or catch fire at
220V.

Element will be hottest just before they burn out.

"PaPaPeng" wrote in message

What will happen if I plug it into a 220Vac power supply instead...

Smoke. How about a series diode or a 240 V lamp dimmer?

Or put both plates in series, if the powers are different.

Nick

In article , wrote:

You need more info from the manufacturer. Doubling the voltage will
square the heat output so a meltdown is likely.

I'm sure you meant to say that doubling the voltage will quadruple the heat
output.

I agree with your conclusion about the likely outcome.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , "Toller" wrote:
Years ago I was on an archeological dig in Israel. My razor was 120v and
the Israeli voltage is 240v. However, they deliberately were dropping the
voltage to conserve energy so I figured my razor ought to be okay.

It went up in a blue flash and smoked like crazy.

An entirely predictable result, of course. And you wonder why I give you grief
when you try to give people electrical advice.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

According to :
"PaPaPeng" wrote in message

What will happen if I plug it into a 220Vac power supply instead...

Smoke. How about a series diode or a 240 V lamp dimmer?

Or put both plates in series, if the powers are different.

If the element power consumption is different, if you put them
in series, the higher power one will produce _less_ heat than
with 120V just before the other element burns out.

If you tried this stunt with a lamp dimmer (even a 240V one),
you'd blow it up too. The dimmer would have to be rated for
something on the order of 4000 watts. Lamp dimmers are
usually 600W, occasionally 1Kw.

Dimmers don't adjust the voltage, they adjust how much of the sine
wave is "omitted" from the feed - more or less determining duty
cycle. Dimmers lop out the lower voltage part of the curve, so,
the elements would still be seeing 240V.

A series diode would almost work, except that it only cuts the
power by one half, you need it reduced by three quarters.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
In article , "Toller"
wrote:
Years ago I was on an archeological dig in Israel. My razor was 120v and
the Israeli voltage is 240v. However, they deliberately were dropping the
voltage to conserve energy so I figured my razor ought to be okay.

It went up in a blue flash and smoked like crazy.

An entirely predictable result, of course. And you wonder why I give you
grief
when you try to give people electrical advice.


I was nineteen and it was try it or not shave; I knew it probably wouldn't
work, but the potential benefit was worth the risk.
Since you probably have never had to shave, you cannot appreciate the
situation.
I don't wonder why you give me a hard time; its because you are AlphaTurd!

On 2005-11-03, Chris Lewis wrote:

A series diode would almost work, except that it only cuts the power
by one half, you need it reduced by three quarters.

The whole point was to get more power from the hot plate, without
burning it up. So you don't want to reduce the 240V power by a full
3/4, reducing it by 1/2 might be the ticket. Of course, doubling the
power would probably still melt the sucker.

Cheers, Wayne

wrote:
wrote:

...Doubling the voltage will square the heat output

Wow... (1500)^2 = 2.25 megawatts.

Nick


No, that's 2.25E+06 w^2 (square watts)--don't forget the units.
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On the off chance that somebody reading this takes it seriously, the
change in power is related to the square of in the change in voltage.
so, v*2 gives p*(2^2), which is p*4. In watts.

I have no idea what's measured in w^2, but I'm sure something is.

In article , "Toller" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
m...
In article , "Toller"
wrote:
Years ago I was on an archeological dig in Israel. My razor was 120v and
the Israeli voltage is 240v. However, they deliberately were dropping the
voltage to conserve energy so I figured my razor ought to be okay.

It went up in a blue flash and smoked like crazy.

An entirely predictable result, of course. And you wonder why I give you
grief
when you try to give people electrical advice.


I was nineteen and it was try it or not shave; I knew it probably wouldn't
work, but the potential benefit was worth the risk.

First you say you figured it ought to be okay. Now you say you knew it
probably wouldn't work. Which is the truth?

Since you probably have never had to shave, you cannot appreciate the
situation.

I see you still haven't gotten past junior high school insults. You get that
one out of a book, Wade, or did you make it up all on your own?

I don't wonder why you give me a hard time; its because you are AlphaTurd!

No, I give you a hard time because the advice you give is dangerous. You don't
understand enough about electricity to handle it safely -- as your incident
with the razor proves -- and yet you persist in trying to tell other people
how to handle it.

BTW -- I always figured you were lying when you claimed you killfiled me.
Thanks for proving I was right.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Yeh, like that horrible dryer example where I suggested following the
manufacturer's recommendation and you said I was wrong and dangerous. ooooh

BTW -- I always figured you were lying when you claimed you killfiled me.
Thanks for proving I was right.

A couple days ago I deleted all the blocks figuring they were probably all
gone and there was no reason to check against them. Beats me how you have
survived. Bye

In article , "Toller" wrote:


Yeh, like that horrible dryer example where I suggested following the
manufacturer's recommendation and you said I was wrong and dangerous. ooooh

You *still* don't have it right, Wade. It wasn't a dryer, and you didn't
suggest following the manufacturer's directions. It was a range hood, I think,
maybe a stove -- and your "advice" _directly_contradicted_ the manufacturer's
directions that the OP quoted. Those directions said to attach the green wire
to the grounding conductor. You told him to attach it to the neutral. That's
why I say you're dangerous: because you don't have a clue, and yet you
continue to give "advice".

BTW -- I always figured you were lying when you claimed you killfiled me.
Thanks for proving I was right.

A couple days ago I deleted all the blocks figuring they were probably all
gone and there was no reason to check against them. Beats me how you have
survived. Bye

Uh-huh. Sure.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

wrote in message
...
"PaPaPeng" wrote in message

What will happen if I plug it into a 220Vac power supply instead...

Smoke. How about a series diode or a 240 V lamp dimmer?

Or put both plates in series, if the powers are different.

Nick

The dimmer would cost far more than the hot plate...probably not a
solution...you think???....