Folks,

I need advice on the least expensive way--without being stupid--to
repair a
long horizontal crack that extends nearly around our basement block
foundation, about 18" below ground level.

The crack was revealed during the inspection of our 60 year-old house,
which we bought this summer. We negotiated a $6500 credit, based on a
contractor's repair estimate, to dig out the outside foundation and
install grip-tite style wall anchors. But we have already spent most of
our savings on the down payment, so I am wondering if there are less
expensive alternatives.

The crack looks quite old, and does not appear to be getting any worse.
There is no evidence of the wall bowing or buckling. There is probably
some water coming through the walls, but our basement is very dry
because of a good french-drain and sump pump system, which was
installed about 7 years ago. (I don't know why they did not repair the
crack then.)

We may end up selling this house within 5 years. If I just cover it up,

we will have to give the next guy credit.

Finally, there is also some kind of thin metal strip, which that is
badly rusted, buried inside the crack or even between the blocks. I'm
not sure if this was part of an earlier repair attempt, or something
built into the original foundation. I don't understand enough to guess.
Any thoughts?

Thanks for any advice.

the metal in the joints may be joint reinforcement (dur o wall). is
the crack on the inside face ? 18 inches down from the floor?
outside grade is to the first floor level? i guess the wall doesnt
have vertical rebar?
On 23 Oct 2005 12:46:12 -0700, wrote:

Folks,

I need advice on the least expensive way--without being stupid--to
repair a
long horizontal crack that extends nearly around our basement block
foundation, about 18" below ground level.

The crack was revealed during the inspection of our 60 year-old house,
which we bought this summer. We negotiated a $6500 credit, based on a
contractor's repair estimate, to dig out the outside foundation and
install grip-tite style wall anchors. But we have already spent most of
our savings on the down payment, so I am wondering if there are less
expensive alternatives.

The crack looks quite old, and does not appear to be getting any worse.
There is no evidence of the wall bowing or buckling. There is probably
some water coming through the walls, but our basement is very dry
because of a good french-drain and sump pump system, which was
installed about 7 years ago. (I don't know why they did not repair the
crack then.)

We may end up selling this house within 5 years. If I just cover it up,

we will have to give the next guy credit.

Finally, there is also some kind of thin metal strip, which that is
badly rusted, buried inside the crack or even between the blocks. I'm
not sure if this was part of an earlier repair attempt, or something
built into the original foundation. I don't understand enough to guess.
Any thoughts?

Thanks for any advice.

the metal in the joints may be joint reinforcement (dur o wall).

Yeah, I looked it up and it looks right. I thought it might have
something to do with the crack, but I found some of this stuff also
sticking out of another block, with no (extended)
crack.

Is the crack on the inside face ?

Yes

18 inches down from the floor? outside grade is to the first floor level?

No, it's 18 inches below ground level. The basement ceiling/
first floor beams are about 18 inches above ground level.

i guess the wall doesnt have vertical rebar?

I don't think so.

so how high are these walls (from basement floor to first)? and how
thick is the CMU (cinder block wall) cause the crack sure sounds
like its the result of a bending failure in the wall. see, the wall
spans from the slab to the first floor as it holds the outside dirt
out. and this soil loading has caused this wall to crack (hence the
horizontal crack) is the soil a clay? because clay will swell and
causes higher loads than a sand or granular soil. the contractor
wanted to "install grip-tite style wall anchors." what are they?
anyway patching the crack, aint gonna fix it.

On 23 Oct 2005 15:22:19 -0700, wrote:

the metal in the joints may be joint reinforcement (dur o wall).

Yeah, I looked it up and it looks right. I thought it might have
something to do with the crack, but I found some of this stuff also
sticking out of another block, with no (extended)
crack.

Is the crack on the inside face ?

Yes

18 inches down from the floor? outside grade is to the first floor level?

No, it's 18 inches below ground level. The basement ceiling/
first floor beams are about 18 inches above ground level.

i guess the wall doesnt have vertical rebar?

I don't think so.

so how high are these walls (from basement floor to first)? and how
thick is the CMU (cinder block wall) cause the crack sure sounds
like its the result of a bending failure in the wall.

From floor to 1st floor is almost 8 feet. The walls are standard 8"
cinder block.The soil is clay.

I agree, the horizontal crack was probably caused by hydrostatic
pressure or frozen ground swell above the frost line.

the contractor wanted to "install grip-tite style wall anchors." what are they?

Here is an example, except in my case there is no sign of buckling:

http://www.anchoredwalls.com/digout.html

I'm just wondering if I have to take this drastic action. Or if there
is
something less costly.

On 23 Oct 2005 18:45:39 -0700, wrote:

so how high are these walls (from basement floor to first)? and how
thick is the CMU (cinder block wall) cause the crack sure sounds
like its the result of a bending failure in the wall.

From floor to 1st floor is almost 8 feet. The walls are standard 8"
cinder block.The soil is clay.

I agree, the horizontal crack was probably caused by hydrostatic
pressure or frozen ground swell above the frost line.

the contractor wanted to "install grip-tite style wall anchors." what are they?

Here is an example, except in my case there is no sign of buckling:

http://www.anchoredwalls.com/digout.html

I'm just wondering if I have to take this drastic action. Or if there
is
something less costly.

I wouldn't worry about it until it showed definite signs of
buckling.. Fill in the crack with a thin concrete mix and forget
about it.

When you sell, jack up the price $10,000 and give them a 7,500
credit.

On 23 Oct 2005 18:45:39 -0700, wrote:

so how high are these walls (from basement floor to first)? and how
thick is the CMU (cinder block wall) cause the crack sure sounds
like its the result of a bending failure in the wall.

From floor to 1st floor is almost 8 feet. The walls are standard 8"
cinder block.The soil is clay.

I agree, the horizontal crack was probably caused by hydrostatic
pressure or frozen ground swell above the frost line.

the contractor wanted to "install grip-tite style wall anchors." what are they?

Here is an example, except in my case there is no sign of buckling:

http://www.anchoredwalls.com/digout.html

I'm just wondering if I have to take this drastic action. Or if there
is
something less costly.

Pillasters?