My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman

you didnt say if it is push or rider and engine you have,that would
narrow things down

"Sherman" wrote in message
...
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15
minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will
not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman


Lots of things...

But check for spark next time it happens-if not, you need a new
magneto coil. That's about $40

If it has a primer bulb, see if it's collapsed-could have a plugged
pickup tube screen in the gas tank. You drop the tank to clean that

Sounds like a valve clearance problem to me. Either that, or the fuel line
is too close to the engine. But more likely valve clearance.

I took a small engine repair course years ago. To fix this, you have to take
off the motor cover, the cylinder head, and then remove both valves. Grind a
little off the bottom, ch eck the clearance, and put it back together.
Requires some specialized tools, and some replacment gaskets.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Sherman" wrote in message
...
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...

"Sherman" wrote in message
...
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15
minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will
not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman


Lots of things...

But check for spark next time it happens-if not, you need a new
magneto coil. That's about $40

If it has a primer bulb, see if it's collapsed-could have a plugged
pickup tube screen in the gas tank. You drop the tank to clean that

Oh yeah-check the vent on the gas cap, too. Do the simple things
first...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message

I took a small engine repair course years ago. To fix this, you have to
take
off the motor cover, the cylinder head, and then remove both valves. Grind
a
little off the bottom, ch eck the clearance, and put it back together.
Requires some specialized tools, and some replacment gaskets.

What makes for less clearance after 4 years of running? I'd have thought
the opposite would happen. Or is it worn on the stem and not contacting
properly so relieving the valve seat brings it back?

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:ImOBe.16872$rx4.2709@trndny05...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
message

I took a small engine repair course years ago. To fix this, you
have to
take
off the motor cover, the cylinder head, and then remove both
valves. Grind
a
little off the bottom, ch eck the clearance, and put it back
together.
Requires some specialized tools, and some replacment gaskets.

What makes for less clearance after 4 years of running? I'd have
thought
the opposite would happen. Or is it worn on the stem and not
contacting
properly so relieving the valve seat brings it back?


No, the valve seat sinks into the block. There's supposed to be a
little clearance between the lifter and the tip of the stem, so you
grind the end off.
That's for the more common valves in block type., not on an OHV..

"Rick" wrote in message
link.net...

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:ImOBe.16872$rx4.2709@trndny05...

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
message

I took a small engine repair course years ago. To fix this, you
have to
take
off the motor cover, the cylinder head, and then remove both
valves. Grind
a
little off the bottom, ch eck the clearance, and put it back
together.
Requires some specialized tools, and some replacment gaskets.

What makes for less clearance after 4 years of running? I'd have
thought
the opposite would happen. Or is it worn on the stem and not
contacting
properly so relieving the valve seat brings it back?


No, the valve seat sinks into the block. There's supposed to be a
little clearance between the lifter and the tip of the stem, so you
grind the end off.

That's for the more common valves in block type., not on an OHV..


Or the seat and the valve face wear. In that case, seat and valve
regrind or replacement....

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Sounds like a valve clearance problem to me. Either that, or the fuel line
is too close to the engine. But more likely valve clearance.
.....

That sure wouldn't be the first place I'd look....more likely electrical
as someone else noted w/ thermal expansion...besides the magneto, it
could also be the plug ceramic...(look, look)...oh, I see he did change
the plug so it's upstream of there...

Right after it sputters and dies, will it start again??

If not a shot of either, if it turns over and runs for a
moment then its not the spark.

What you have sound a lot like its starving for fuel.

Before ripping apart the motor (like other suggested)
I'd recommend just cleaning out the gas tank (there
should be a strainer filter in there) check and possibly
replace the fuel line (you can get more fuel line at your
local auto store) Some carbs have a bowl on the bottom
of them, you can take that off and clean it out.

Take a look at your air filter, make sure its happy too!

In article ,
Sherman wrote:
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman


Have you tried cleaning or replacing the air filter?


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:16:33 GMT, Sherman
wrote:

My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman

This is a push mower Craftsman about a 4 hp.

I removed the gas filter bowl and it was clean. No change after
cleaning and reinstalling. Started right up and ran for 10 minutes..

After it dies hot, it will not start or even try to start. The pull
compression feels about the same hot or cold. But I can't measure the
vacuum (or can I?)

Has to cool down and at some point it cools enough to start on first
pull and runs good for 10 minutes.

I will check for spark next time it is dead.

Sherman

"Sherman" wrote in message
...


I removed the gas filter bowl and it was clean. No change after
cleaning and reinstalling. Started right up and ran for 10 minutes..

After it dies hot, it will not start or even try to start. The pull
compression feels about the same hot or cold. But I can't measure the
vacuum (or can I?)

Has to cool down and at some point it cools enough to start on first
pull and runs good for 10 minutes.

I fail to see the problem. With a strategically placed cooler of beer, you
are being forced by nature to take appropriate breaks. This is for yourgood
health.

"Sherman" wrote in message
...
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman

Diving down from center field...

Does the engine have an oil sensor?
What is the oil level and when was it changed last?

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 14:16:11 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Sherman" wrote in message
.. .


I removed the gas filter bowl and it was clean. No change after
cleaning and reinstalling. Started right up and ran for 10 minutes..

After it dies hot, it will not start or even try to start. The pull
compression feels about the same hot or cold. But I can't measure the
vacuum (or can I?)

Has to cool down and at some point it cools enough to start on first
pull and runs good for 10 minutes.

I fail to see the problem. With a strategically placed cooler of beer, you
are being forced by nature to take appropriate breaks. This is for yourgood
health.


Actually, I lied. My spouse does the mowing and she is getting
angry at me because the mower is dying. Don't get me wrong, I will
mow when it needs it, but in 30 years, she has never let it get long
enough to need it.

I need to get this thing diagnosed and fixed pronto.

I'm thinking I could use one of those piercing shroeder valves on the
intake manifold to measure for vacuum while I yank the rope. Wonder
if it would work. Or I could test compression thinking maybe the
compression would be different if the suction was off due to valve not
seating..

Sherman

Sherman wrote:



Actually, I lied. My spouse does the mowing and she is getting
angry at me because the mower is dying.
Sherman



Your wife mows? Get her this:
http://www.cleanairgardening.com/brillux38ree.html

Sherman wrote:

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 15:05:59 GMT, Sherman
wrote:

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 14:16:11 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Sherman" wrote in message
. ..


I removed the gas filter bowl and it was clean. No change after
cleaning and reinstalling. Started right up and ran for 10 minutes..

After it dies hot, it will not start or even try to start. The pull
compression feels about the same hot or cold. But I can't measure the
vacuum (or can I?)

Has to cool down and at some point it cools enough to start on first
pull and runs good for 10 minutes.

I fail to see the problem. With a strategically placed cooler of beer, you
are being forced by nature to take appropriate breaks. This is for yourgood
health.


Actually, I lied. My spouse does the mowing and she is getting
angry at me because the mower is dying. Don't get me wrong, I will
mow when it needs it, but in 30 years, she has never let it get long
enough to need it.

I need to get this thing diagnosed and fixed pronto.

I'm thinking I could use one of those piercing shroeder valves on the
intake manifold to measure for vacuum while I yank the rope. Wonder
if it would work. Or I could test compression thinking maybe the
compression would be different if the suction was off due to valve not
seating..

Sherman


Ok, I'm also thinking I could pull the valve cover and observe the
valves when hot or cold. What am I looking for? As the crank lets
the valve close, it should become loose and I should be able to grab
the stem and lift and let go and hear the valve seating - right? It
would probably be a different sound if it was not seating.....



If they're not seating, you won't have compression when you crank...

Did you find out if you have spark when it's hot or not yet? I'm still
thinking electrical is more likely the culprit...

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 15:05:59 GMT, Sherman
wrote:

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 14:16:11 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Sherman" wrote in message
. ..


I removed the gas filter bowl and it was clean. No change after
cleaning and reinstalling. Started right up and ran for 10 minutes..

After it dies hot, it will not start or even try to start. The pull
compression feels about the same hot or cold. But I can't measure the
vacuum (or can I?)

Has to cool down and at some point it cools enough to start on first
pull and runs good for 10 minutes.

I fail to see the problem. With a strategically placed cooler of beer, you
are being forced by nature to take appropriate breaks. This is for yourgood
health.


Actually, I lied. My spouse does the mowing and she is getting
angry at me because the mower is dying. Don't get me wrong, I will
mow when it needs it, but in 30 years, she has never let it get long
enough to need it.

I need to get this thing diagnosed and fixed pronto.

I'm thinking I could use one of those piercing shroeder valves on the
intake manifold to measure for vacuum while I yank the rope. Wonder
if it would work. Or I could test compression thinking maybe the
compression would be different if the suction was off due to valve not
seating..

Sherman


Ok, I'm also thinking I could pull the valve cover and observe the
valves when hot or cold. What am I looking for? As the crank lets
the valve close, it should become loose and I should be able to grab
the stem and lift and let go and hear the valve seating - right? It
would probably be a different sound if it was not seating.....

add more coolant to the radiator.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:16:33 GMT, Sherman
wrote:

My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman

"ysoa" wrote in message
...
add more coolant to the radiator.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:16:33 GMT, Sherman
wrote:

My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?


I like Rick's gas cap vent possibility. Maybe it's not getting too hot, but
building up a vacuum in the gas tank. It shuts down and then takes a few
minutes to slowly equalize the pressure before it'll start again. What the
hell, take the gas cap off and see what happens.

In article , Sherman wrote:

Ok, I'm also thinking I could pull the valve cover and observe the
valves when hot or cold. What am I looking for? As the crank lets
the valve close, it should become loose and I should be able to grab
the stem and lift and let go and hear the valve seating - right? It
would probably be a different sound if it was not seating.....

Forget the damn valves, that's not the problem. You've been given sound advice
by several people: check to see if you have spark when it's hot and not
working. I'm betting you don't, because the magneto has failed.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Sherman wrote:
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman

Many, many air-cooled engines develop this problem. The odds are
overwhelming it's your ignition module, and they're a ******* to
troubleshoot [except, of course, by replacing the module].

As soon as the engine starts to cool -- long enough to check for spark
-- the module cools down enough to check as OK. It's very possible
you'll check the spark and it'll be OK.

They're easy to change, but shop carefully. The price for replacement
can vary radically.

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:16:33 GMT, Sherman
wrote:

My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15 minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman

This is an outside possibility, but I had a lawnmower with a leaking
head gasket. Problem was it would leak only when the engine was hot.
The problem was getting worse and worse and I could not figure out
what was wrong. The gasket finall degraded to the point that that
when I happened to brush my hand ove the head, I could feel the hot
gases leaking from the head gasket.
Gary Dyrkacz

Radio Control Aircraft/Paintball Physics/Paintball for 40+
http://home.comcast.net/~dyrgcmn/

I may well be misaken. But I've seen valve clearance problems several times
before. Though, coil problem is a bit easier to fix. How about find another
coil to try for awhile?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Sounds like a valve clearance problem to me. Either that, or the fuel line
is too close to the engine. But more likely valve clearance.
.....

That sure wouldn't be the first place I'd look....more likely electrical
as someone else noted w/ thermal expansion...besides the magneto, it
could also be the plug ceramic...(look, look)...oh, I see he did change
the plug so it's upstream of there...

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I may well be misaken. But I've seen valve clearance problems several times
before. Though, coil problem is a bit easier to fix. How about find another
coil to try for awhile?

How about checking for spark when hot first, as has already been
suggested (several times)????

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 12:53:07 GMT, "Rick" wrote:


"Rick" wrote in message
hlink.net...

"Sherman" wrote in message
...
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. I can mow for 15
minutes
and it coughs and sputters and then shuts down completely and will
not
restart - for 15 minutes. Then it will start and runs another 10
minutes.

Seems to be a heat related issue. I cleaned out the debris and
replaced the spark plug. No change.

What could be wrong and how do I determine it?

Sherman


Lots of things...

But check for spark next time it happens-if not, you need a new
magneto coil. That's about $40

If it has a primer bulb, see if it's collapsed-could have a plugged
pickup tube screen in the gas tank. You drop the tank to clean that

Oh yeah-check the vent on the gas cap, too. Do the simple things
first...

Rick says "Check the vent on the gas cap, too".

Well, Bingo! Rick wins.

After checking for spark after it died, and getting a positive
response from my wife on spark, I replaced the spark plug cap and
reached up untwisted the gas cap off a 1/4 turn and it started on the
first pull.

Now, I looked and I don't see any hole in the gas cap for it to vent.
I hate that she has to mow with the gas cap not tight. She might
catch the mower on fire. I'd hate to lose that old mower.

Do I just drill a small hole in the cap?

Sherman.

Sherman wrote:

....
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. ...
Rick says "Check the vent on the gas cap, too".

Well, Bingo! Rick wins.

After checking for spark after it died, and getting a positive
response from my wife on spark, I replaced the spark plug cap and
reached up untwisted the gas cap off a 1/4 turn and it started on the
first pull.

Now, I looked and I don't see any hole in the gas cap for it to vent.
I hate that she has to mow with the gas cap not tight. She might
catch the mower on fire. I'd hate to lose that old mower.

Do I just drill a small hole in the cap?

It's a four-year old mower and now a non-vented gas tank is the
problem? Don't think so...

Mayhaps the vent is plugged, but I'm still not convinced...there's got
to be an existing vent if that is the problem or it wouldn't ever have
run reliably...

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 14:36:14 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

Sherman wrote:

...
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. ...
Rick says "Check the vent on the gas cap, too".

Well, Bingo! Rick wins.

After checking for spark after it died, and getting a positive
response from my wife on spark, I replaced the spark plug cap and
reached up untwisted the gas cap off a 1/4 turn and it started on the
first pull.

Now, I looked and I don't see any hole in the gas cap for it to vent.
I hate that she has to mow with the gas cap not tight. She might
catch the mower on fire. I'd hate to lose that old mower.

Do I just drill a small hole in the cap?

It's a four-year old mower and now a non-vented gas tank is the
problem? Don't think so...

Mayhaps the vent is plugged, but I'm still not convinced...there's got
to be an existing vent if that is the problem or it wouldn't ever have
run reliably...

The cap is hard rubber with a rubber washer that has 2 small holes
in it. Behind the 2 holes is another flat thin rubber washer that has
deterioated and the deteriorated rubber is actually protruding
partially thru the tiny holes. I suspect it completely stopped up
the vent holes.

I tried removing the deteriorated rubber, but can't really get to it.
If she comes in bitching about the mower dying again, I'll add a new
vent hole thru the cap.

"JimL" wrote in message
If she comes in bitching about the mower dying again, I'll add a new
vent hole thru the cap.

Seems like a lot of work for one guy. She's cutting the grass so it is her
responsibility to take care of the dammed thing. Tell her to drill the
hole.

Be sure to report back with the results when you do!

In article , "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

"JimL" wrote in message
If she comes in bitching about the mower dying again, I'll add a new
vent hole thru the cap.

Seems like a lot of work for one guy. She's cutting the grass so it is her
responsibility to take care of the dammed thing. Tell her to drill the
hole.

Be sure to report back with the results when you do!

Ed, he won't be able to sit down to type with that drill up there...

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
You must use your REAL email address to get a response.

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 14:36:14 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

Sherman wrote:

...
My 4 year old lawnmower gets hot and dies. ...
Rick says "Check the vent on the gas cap, too".

Well, Bingo! Rick wins.

After checking for spark after it died, and getting a positive
response from my wife on spark, I replaced the spark plug cap and
reached up untwisted the gas cap off a 1/4 turn and it started on the
first pull.

Now, I looked and I don't see any hole in the gas cap for it to vent.
I hate that she has to mow with the gas cap not tight. She might
catch the mower on fire. I'd hate to lose that old mower.

Do I just drill a small hole in the cap?

It's a four-year old mower and now a non-vented gas tank is the
problem? Don't think so...

Mayhaps the vent is plugged, but I'm still not convinced...there's got
to be an existing vent if that is the problem or it wouldn't ever have
run reliably...

You are right. The vent is plugged.


The cap is hard rubber with a rubber washer that has 2 small holes
in it. Behind the 2 holes is another flat thin rubber washer that has
deterioated and the deteriorated rubber is actually protruding
partially thru the tiny holes. I suspect it completely stopped up
the vent holes.

I tried removing the deteriorated rubber, but can't really get to it.
If she comes in bitching about the mower dying again, I'll add a new
vent hole thru the cap.

replying to Sherman, D Mecate wrote:
hosting wrote:

I need to get this thing diagnosed and fixed pronto.

Until the electrical issue is addressed, you're simply fiddling with parts
that are more than likely functional; change out that ignition coil.

--

replying to Sherman, Marc Belanger wrote:
The lawn mower is probably losing spark. It will get good spark if it is cold,
but once hot, one of 3 things could be happening. First, the spark plug could
be filled with crud, and when it is cold, the crud has a lot of non conductive
grease in there. This will turn to a liquid when hot and become conductive
enough to short out the coil pack and kill the spark. I would replace it if it
looks like there is crud between the edge of the steel and the porcelain on
the inside of the spark plug. Look between the metal electrode and follow the
porcelain where you can't see it anymore.. Yeah, thats the place, either clean
it out and get the bl;ack stuff out, eliminating the short and it will
probably work again. if not, the spark plug wire may be cracked and work while
cold, but once it warms up, the break is separated enough not to work. Same
thing with the coil. Or, the coil could be hust loose. It needs a ground to
work and if the coil is loose, when cold it may be connected electrically then
when it warms up it may disconnect. The coil and spark plug wire are one piece
on a tecumseh or briggs and stratton and are less than 25 bucks normally. Get
one, screw it on, wire it and rreplace the spark plug. Then, check to be sure
the shut off wire isn't shorted to metal anywhere, it it is, the mower will
still not start. tape it or reconnect it correctly to fix. The coil is under
the crankcase cover. Oh, btw, the coil needs to be mounted the correct
distance from the flywheel if you never seen one before. Try to line up or
mark the old one before loosening it. Some coild only mount in one location so
this may not matter.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...its-13294-.htm

replying to JWitherspoon, Marc Belanger wrote:
he said it will only run again when cold. Mine is doing the same thing as his,
it is the coil. when it gets warm, the coil opens and doesn't give spark. When
it cools back down, the coil fires the spark plug. it won't even sputter when
it gets warm, when cold, starts right up everytime


--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...its-13294-.htm

Don't people look at the dates of postings?????????????????????????????

On Fri, 24 Jun 2016 20:44:02 +0000, Marc Belanger
wrote:

replying to Sherman, Marc Belanger wrote:
The lawn mower is probably losing spark. It will get good spark if it is cold,
but once hot, one of 3 things could be happening. First, the spark plug could
be filled with crud, and when it is cold, the crud has a lot of non conductive
grease in there. This will turn to a liquid when hot and become conductive
enough to short out the coil pack and kill the spark.


Less than 1 chance in 10,000,000 of THAT being the problem. Spark
plugs and infewrnal combustion engines don't quite work that way.
I would replace it if it
looks like there is crud between the edge of the steel and the porcelain on
the inside of the spark plug. Look between the metal electrode and follow the
porcelain where you can't see it anymore.. Yeah, thats the place, either clean
it out and get the bl;ack stuff out, eliminating the short and it will
probably work again. if not, the spark plug wire may be cracked and work while
cold, but once it warms up, the break is separated enough not to work.

Again you are picking at straws - with something perhaps in the
nieghborhood of a 1 in 5,000,000 chance.
Same
thing with the coil.

Now you are gettind somewhere close to the realm of possibility - and
even probability. The coils have solid state components in them that
can fail from heat and vibration.
The FIRST thing to do is remove the shroud and blow all the chaff and
weed seeds out of the cooling fins to make sure the engine is
cooling..Re assemble the engine - run it 'till it quits, pull the plug
wire and hold the end of the wire while someone gives the rope a quick
pull. If your eyes don't light up, you KNOW it is a spark problem.


Or, the coil could be hust loose. It needs a ground to
work and if the coil is loose, when cold it may be connected electrically then
when it warms up it may disconnect.
Generally, if the coil is loose it will hit the flywheel and it is
more likely to have a problem starting cold than hot.
The coil and spark plug wire are one piece
on a tecumseh or briggs and stratton and are less than 25 bucks normally. Get
one, screw it on, wire it and rreplace the spark plug. Then, check to be sure
the shut off wire isn't shorted to metal anywhere, it it is, the mower will
still not start.
Why not check that first, and quite possibly save yourself 25
bucks??
tape it or reconnect it correctly to fix. The coil is under
the crankcase cover.

And in many cases (all older tecumsehs ) under the flywheel too.

Oh, btw, the coil needs to be mounted the correct
distance from the flywheel if you never seen one before. Try to line up or
mark the old one before loosening it. Some coild only mount in one location so
this may not matter.
On a Briggs (external mounted coil) a peice of cigarette package
cardboard or a business card is "close enough for government work".

On Fri, 24 Jun 2016 20:44:02 +0000, Marc Belanger
wrote:

replying to JWitherspoon, Marc Belanger wrote:
he said it will only run again when cold. Mine is doing the same thing as his,
it is the coil. when it gets warm, the coil opens and doesn't give spark. When
it cools back down, the coil fires the spark plug. it won't even sputter when
it gets warm, when cold, starts right up everytime
Then why did you send him on the wild-goose chase about the mythical
hot fouling plug, hot-failing plug wire, and heat sensitive loose coil
mounting???? On electronic ignition mower engines it is almost always
the coil - except on those rare engines with a separate ignitor -
where the ignitor itself may be bad and the coil still good (although
USUALLY it is a bad coil that kills the ignitor module). On older
point ignition engines it CAN be a bad capacitor (condensor) or a bad
coil.

On 06/24/2016 02:53 PM, wrote:
Don't people look at the dates of postings?????????????????????????????


Some do, some don't. Why?

On Thursday, June 30, 2016 at 11:38:48 AM UTC-4, Red wrote:
On 06/24/2016 02:53 PM, wrote:
Don't people look at the dates of postings?????????????????????????????


Some do, some don't. Why?

Geeeze,

the guy has been through 2 new mowers and maybe even a new wife by now.

replying to Sherman, mowerboy wrote:
My mower was doing the same thing but I fixed it it turned out to be my
control cable it was just unnoticeable loose from years of fair wear and
tear a new cable fixed my instantly

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