Anyone own one? Know how to adjust the thing? The Genie web site has a
manual available, but it doesn't cover old models, and mine looks nothing
like the new ones.

Problem: When I hit the button (remote, or wall mounted) to close the door,
it goes a foot or so and then stops, or reverses and brings the door back
up. There is NOT a safety thing on the tracks to detect someone standing
under the door, so that's not an issue. A month ago, I had a pro install new
springs so at least the door was usable while I was pondering what to do
about the opener. In other words, this problem existed before that work was
done.

"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
Anyone own one? Know how to adjust the thing? The Genie web site has a
manual available, but it doesn't cover old models, and mine looks nothing
like the new ones.

Problem: When I hit the button (remote, or wall mounted) to close the
door,
it goes a foot or so and then stops, or reverses and brings the door back
up. There is NOT a safety thing on the tracks to detect someone standing
under the door, so that's not an issue. A month ago, I had a pro install
new
springs so at least the door was usable while I was pondering what to do
about the opener. In other words, this problem existed before that work
was
done.


First an foremost I do not like to work on garage door openers. I usually
replace them or hire someone to fix the problem.

http://www.bearcatco.com/helpgifs2/gendiagrams.html
this page lists ~4 different models of the 98. The sequencer boards could
be different. I only looked at one link.
http://www.bearcatco.com/helpgifs2/gendiagrams.html


Have you checked the limit switches on the rail?

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:23:56 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote:

Anyone own one? Know how to adjust the thing? The Genie web site has a
manual available, but it doesn't cover old models, and mine looks nothing
like the new ones.

Problem: When I hit the button (remote, or wall mounted) to close the door,
it goes a foot or so and then stops, or reverses and brings the door back
up. There is NOT a safety thing on the tracks to detect someone standing
under the door, so that's not an issue. A month ago, I had a pro install new
springs so at least the door was usable while I was pondering what to do
about the opener. In other words, this problem existed before that work was
done.


IIRC the older genies sensed an obstruction by how much excess torque
occurred during door movement. So if the motor thinks it's working
too hard it will reverse. Perhaps your springs are not "helping"
enough and there is too much load on the opener.

I also seem to recall that if the clutch was loose and slipped and
let the motor overspeed that would also trigger it to either stop or
reverse. So that's another possibility. Does it sound like it's
slipping before it stops/reverses? To adjust that on my old genies
there is a nut on the very back of the unit and that nut is threaded
onto the tail end of the motor/drive shaft along with a spring and
nylon washers. You tighten it to snug up the clutch and make it stop
slipping.

With the opener disconnected from the door, can you open & close it
EASILY by hand?

If it closes by hand with some difficultly (you have to puch it closed)
but shoots up; you have too much spring force & it needs to be reduced.

Openers are not any stronger than people, both require a well balanced
door system.

A well balanced door takes very little effort to move.
Most "garage door opener problems" are door related not opener related,

If you're not super handy / mechanically inclined don't mess with it.

The spring forces are high & they can you hurt badly.

If the door is well balanced but the opener still reverses you need
more down force; some openers have a screw adjustment for opening &
closoign force.
So also have close & open limits on the rail or internal to the opener.

After any adjustments you need to do the "closing on obstruction" test.



cheers
Bob

"BobK207" wrote in message
oups.com...
With the opener disconnected from the door, can you open & close it
EASILY by hand?

If it closes by hand with some difficultly (you have to puch it closed)
but shoots up; you have too much spring force & it needs to be reduced.

No. As I mentioned in my post, the door was just serviced. The guy did a
great job of balancing it.



Openers are not any stronger than people, both require a well balanced
door system.

A well balanced door takes very little effort to move.
Most "garage door opener problems" are door related not opener related,

If you're not super handy / mechanically inclined don't mess with it.

The spring forces are high & they can you hurt badly.

Springs were professionally done a month ago. They're fine.



If the door is well balanced but the opener still reverses you need
more down force; some openers have a screw adjustment for opening &
closoign force.
So also have close & open limits on the rail or internal to the opener.

That's the problem: Manuals for current models show external adjustments.
There's nothing on the outside of MY model. Haven't removed the cover yet,
though.

Interesting situation at Genie: When I called them, they asked where I
lived. When I told them NY, they said that because state law requires the
photocell safety things, and my model doesn't have them, they were
prohibited from giving me ANY advice on the unit. Swell.

"Ashton Crusher" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:23:56 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote:

Anyone own one? Know how to adjust the thing? The Genie web site has a
manual available, but it doesn't cover old models, and mine looks nothing
like the new ones.

Problem: When I hit the button (remote, or wall mounted) to close the
door,
it goes a foot or so and then stops, or reverses and brings the door back
up. There is NOT a safety thing on the tracks to detect someone standing
under the door, so that's not an issue. A month ago, I had a pro install
new
springs so at least the door was usable while I was pondering what to do
about the opener. In other words, this problem existed before that work
was
done.


IIRC the older genies sensed an obstruction by how much excess torque
occurred during door movement. So if the motor thinks it's working
too hard it will reverse. Perhaps your springs are not "helping"
enough and there is too much load on the opener.

I also seem to recall that if the clutch was loose and slipped and
let the motor overspeed that would also trigger it to either stop or
reverse. So that's another possibility. Does it sound like it's
slipping before it stops/reverses? To adjust that on my old genies
there is a nut on the very back of the unit and that nut is threaded
onto the tail end of the motor/drive shaft along with a spring and
nylon washers. You tighten it to snug up the clutch and make it stop
slipping.

Thanks - I'll be having lunch in the garage, and listening within a few
minutes. Mine has a threaded shaft (with nut) sticking out the FRONT of the
housing. Still sounds like it might be in the right category, though.

I have an old Genie SD9500 (manual copyright date is 1989) & unlike
all the others I worked with (Sears, Chamberlin) this one appears to
have no "electrical" force adjustments.

Looking in the maunal, the nut on the front on a threaded shaft with
a screwdriver slot in it.

They talk about a SAFE-T-REVERSE adjusting tool (I don't have it) but
Iif looks like a regular wrench will fit it.

With a screw driver in the slot to prevent the shaft from turning,
tight the nut 1/2 turn at a time unitl the door closes (you must make
sure the rail limit switch is not causing the door ro stop)

When the door closes reliably, you're done.

Do the 1" obstruction test to make sufre the door still reverses on an
obstruction.

sorry if the directions are overkilled, ng suck compard to telephone.


cheers
Bob

Up & down travel are controlled by limit switches on the aluminum
T-rail.

Down force is a