A couple of weeks ago I posed a question in this forum about stripping some
pretty heavily coated brickwork. At that point, I'd made extensive use of
Prosoco Heavy-Duty Stripper and Prosoco Fast-Acting Stripper (methyline
chloride). With several layers of paint remaining in some areas, I was
quite ready to take the "just paint it again" advice that someone here
offered up.

I'd like to follow-up to that post and offer my experiences to anyone about
to tackle similar work. After more research and a tip from a local alderman
about the "peel away" strippers, I sank $115 on a 5gal. bucket of "Peel
Away 1". Sherwin-Williams was the only place in town that carried the stuff
which I thought was a bit odd for something that claimed to work miracles.
I tried 5 test patches with that first bucket (each the size of a single
sheet) on the various walls I was working with. I didn't really expect much
from the stuff...it went on easy, didn't smell bad and didn't liquefy your
brain with a few good wiffs (unlike the Prosoco stuff).

The results were very promising. 4 of the 5 test areas had excellent
results. The paint in the failed area had darkened but remained otherwise
untouched.

At this point, I've got about 3/4 of the total area stripped. I really wish
that I would have started with this stuff but it's been quite a learning
experience. The peel away stuff doesn't, in my experience, work exactly as
advertised. It goes on very easy with a trowel. It does not, however, just
"peel away" from the brick. The instructions explain that you should use a
scraper or putty blade to "assist". Well, there's a little more scraping
than they let on but the results are well worth it. Also, I still had to
use the pressure washer to clean the bricks afterwords but most everything
that remained washed away with ease significantly minimizing any additional
damage to the brick face.

A few tips...
(1) Make sure that all of the paste is covered with the paper (don't be even
a little sloppy). Otherwise, the exposed paste dries out real quick and
cleaning it off is *A BITCH*.
(2) Be prepared to do a high-pressure wash after you've scraped off what you
can of the paste. There'll be a lot of sludge-like paint waiting for you
underneath your "peel".
(3) I allowed ~24 hours dwell time. I suggest you do the same as this stuff
seems to work real well if given the time. Don't let it sit too long
otherwise you have the aforementioned dried paste problem.
(4) Attempts to be cheap will backfire. The Peel Away product is expensive
when put next to the coverage specs of the other "professional" liquid/gel
strippers. If you've got as much paint as I did, you'll need multiple (4-6)
coats of the latter, negating any monetary savings and costing much more in
labor/time/frustration.
(5) Do your homework. There are like 15 different formulations of Peel Away.
Make sure you get the right stuff for the task at hand.

This has been my experience, YMMV. The property I'm working on is located on
a high-traffic and high-profile city intersection. I had no less than four
people stop to ask (a) if it actually works and (b) where they can get
some. Many more obviously took note of the product as they were sitting at
the stop-lights staring at us as we worked. At this point, Dumond Chemicals
should probably reimburse me for all of the otherwise-free advertising and
positive referrals they got from me through this project .

-BB

I deeply appreciate the time and care you put into your post.
I'll make note for future use.
Some questions:
Can you describe the brick, please? Smooth/Rough, Soft/Hard
Did the mortar joints hold up, or did they loose material in the
process?
Did you strip any wood trim?
If so, what was your experience?

TB

wrote:

I deeply appreciate the time and care you put into your post.
I'll make note for future use.
Some questions:
Can you describe the brick, please? Smooth/Rough, Soft/Hard
All of the above, hence the five test patches. The smooth/hard brick used on
the front of the building turned out very nice and looks almost new. The
rougher brick used on the sides and rear was of a lower density and/or
quality and sustained a slight (though acceptable) amount of damage from
the pressure washing. Also, I still need to go over the latter brick with a
wire brush to finish the clean up on it - a few small patches of dried
stripping paste and paint remain since I couldn't be as thorough there with
the pressure washer (or risk more damage).

The remaining section to be stripped is a very soft brick; it appears to
have been sandblasted once in the past and is in rough shape. Actually, the
plan was to replace this section of wall until I tried peel away and
realized that it may be salvageable after all. There'll be a few bricks to
replace but if I do that and add some type of sealant to this section
afterwards, it should look presentable and hold up for quite some time.

Did the mortar joints hold up, or did they loose material in the
process?

The mortar on most of this place was in poor shape to begin with, so I made
no attempt to avoid mortar loss. The pressure washer took a fair amount out
but it's just that much less that we'll have to scrape away by hand. You're
bound to lose some. If you're losing a lot, you're probably being to rough
with the water. If I had to give an estimate, I'd guess that I lost a bit
less than an 1/8th of the total surface mortar.

Did you strip any wood trim?
If so, what was your experience?

Not yet. There are several areas where the brick wall meets wood (window
frames) but, again, all of these need to be replaced so I made no attempt
to shield them from the stripper. According to the instructions, Peel Away
1 can be used on wood but has a tendency to darken hard woods so if your
plan is to stain the wood afterwords, your best to use a different
formulation. I think a neutralizer is required for PA1 when stripping wood.
It leaves some kind of alkaline film behind that makes painting impossible
otherwise.

I have several pieces of wood to strip and also a nice metal column. I'll
post my results as I get around to those projects.

-BB

Thanks for the follow-up.

Bob

"Belial Black" wrote in message
...
A couple of weeks ago I posed a question in this forum about stripping
some
pretty heavily coated brickwork. At that point, I'd made extensive use of
Prosoco Heavy-Duty Stripper and Prosoco Fast-Acting Stripper (methyline
chloride). With several layers of paint remaining in some areas, I was
quite ready to take the "just paint it again" advice that someone here
offered up.

I'd like to follow-up to that post and offer my experiences to anyone
about
to tackle similar work. After more research and a tip from a local
alderman
about the "peel away" strippers, I sank $115 on a 5gal. bucket of "Peel
Away 1". Sherwin-Williams was the only place in town that carried the
stuff
which I thought was a bit odd for something that claimed to work miracles.
I tried 5 test patches with that first bucket (each the size of a single
sheet) on the various walls I was working with. I didn't really expect
much
from the stuff...it went on easy, didn't smell bad and didn't liquefy your
brain with a few good wiffs (unlike the Prosoco stuff).

The results were very promising. 4 of the 5 test areas had excellent
results. The paint in the failed area had darkened but remained otherwise
untouched.

At this point, I've got about 3/4 of the total area stripped. I really
wish
that I would have started with this stuff but it's been quite a learning
experience. The peel away stuff doesn't, in my experience, work exactly as
advertised. It goes on very easy with a trowel. It does not, however, just
"peel away" from the brick. The instructions explain that you should use a
scraper or putty blade to "assist". Well, there's a little more scraping
than they let on but the results are well worth it. Also, I still had to
use the pressure washer to clean the bricks afterwords but most everything
that remained washed away with ease significantly minimizing any
additional
damage to the brick face.

A few tips...
(1) Make sure that all of the paste is covered with the paper (don't be
even
a little sloppy). Otherwise, the exposed paste dries out real quick and
cleaning it off is *A BITCH*.
(2) Be prepared to do a high-pressure wash after you've scraped off what
you
can of the paste. There'll be a lot of sludge-like paint waiting for you
underneath your "peel".
(3) I allowed ~24 hours dwell time. I suggest you do the same as this
stuff
seems to work real well if given the time. Don't let it sit too long
otherwise you have the aforementioned dried paste problem.
(4) Attempts to be cheap will backfire. The Peel Away product is expensive
when put next to the coverage specs of the other "professional" liquid/gel
strippers. If you've got as much paint as I did, you'll need multiple
(4-6)
coats of the latter, negating any monetary savings and costing much more
in
labor/time/frustration.
(5) Do your homework. There are like 15 different formulations of Peel
Away.
Make sure you get the right stuff for the task at hand.

This has been my experience, YMMV. The property I'm working on is located
on
a high-traffic and high-profile city intersection. I had no less than four
people stop to ask (a) if it actually works and (b) where they can get
some. Many more obviously took note of the product as they were sitting at
the stop-lights staring at us as we worked. At this point, Dumond
Chemicals
should probably reimburse me for all of the otherwise-free advertising and
positive referrals they got from me through this project .

-BB