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#1
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
ississauga wrote: I recently started finishing basements and find painting the trim for baseboard and doors is very labour intensive. Has someone invented a machine for painting these things?, like you insert the trim and pull it thru betwen two rollers and some paint gets into it via one of the rollers...or something like that. Since they are very narrow, only a few inches in width, I felt a machine would be simple. If no machine exists have you made one yourself? In my opinion you cant do a quality job pre-staining or pre-painting anything with regards to trim. It always results in a substandard end result. We, and our painting subs, always painted after installation because you need to run a _tiny_ bead of caulk between the trim and the plaster (or other surface) and then tape, or hand cut, rolling your wall color slightly onto the trim, and I mean SLIGHTLY. The only labor saving step is, which ever you choose to paint first (wall or trim) can get onto the other surface and you only tape once. We would most always opt to paint trim first with the progression being: install trim prime walls and trim caulk all trim/wall joints paint trim (getting trim color on wall doesnt matter so can be sprayed or brushed) tape trim allowing wall paint to roll _ever so slightly_ onto trim burnish tape paint walls remove tape For stained trim it would be: Install trim stain trim (stain gets on wall) urethane trim (urethane gets on wall) caulk trim tape burnish prime (but dont prime right to tape as you will see the edge of the prime coat when you remove the tape) paint remove tape Whenever you stain/urethane/paint your trim first it is inevetable that you will be left with gaps somewhere between the wall and trim. This is especially the case if you use tape&joint drywall but is an issue with all situations. In our opinion the end result is far superior to any other option and take very little extra time. For doors we spray everything except stain. Paint is sprayed with airless and urethane with HVLP. Mark |
#2
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Mark & Shauna wrote in message ...
caulk all trim/wall joints Thanks for your detailed reply, can you detail what material is needed to do the above task. tape trim allowing wall paint to roll _ever so slightly_ onto trim So a thin band of wall paint falls onto the trim? How wide should this band be? burnish tape That means what exactly? |
#3
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Mark & Shauna wrote:
In my opinion you cant do a quality job pre-staining or pre-painting anything with regards to trim. It always results in a substandard end result. In the architectural woodworking industry (the business I'm in) we shop finish everything. It's anything but substandard. http://www.awinet.org UA100 |
#4
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
ississauga wrote:
Mark & Shauna wrote in message ... caulk all trim/wall joints Thanks for your detailed reply, can you detail what material is needed to do the above task. Any paintable latex caulk is fine. We used white phenoseal but whatever you like best will work. Cut the tip as small as you can get caulk to flow out of, run a bead, wipe with a wet rag wrapped over your finger. tape trim allowing wall paint to roll _ever so slightly_ onto trim So a thin band of wall paint falls onto the trim? How wide should this band be? As small as you can make it. The reason for one color rolling onto the other is merely because you cant tape in the tiny radius left by the caulking. Its easier to tape on the flat just below the radius. It can be tricky on some trims which have a small detail right at the edge but still doable. burnish tape That means what exactly? If you ever use tape and you just apply it and perhaps press it down with your finger you will get paint bleeding under the tape where the tape wasnt adhered tightly to the surface. Burnishing is when you go along the edge of the tape with something (we used the corner of a putty knife) and rub it down adhering it tightly to the trim. If you dont do this cleaning up the bleeding is impossible. Also remember to remove the tape as soon as you are done with your last coat. If you wait til the paint is dry you risk the chance of peeling/chipping the edge of the paint leaving an ugly edge. Mark |
#5
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Unisaw A100 wrote:
In the architectural woodworking industry (the business I'm in) we shop finish everything. It's anything but substandard. http://www.awinet.org UA100 I dont care what industry it is. Unless you have a way, in the field, to pull the casing/trim _dead tight_ against every millimeter of its length along the mating surface you will be left with small gaps which, as I stated, to me make for a substandard end result. When applying almost any trim to even the best skim coat plaster job, wood, metal, whatever, there will be inconsistancies in both the trim and the wall which will make for these gaps. They are especially undesireable with light colors as they show like a sore thumb. They are even worse when the trim is not caulked and in time the joints open up leaving a tiny jagged edge where the paint failed to bridge the tiny crack. Unless you have a way, and desire, to fasten the trim every couple inches, "sucking" a piece of trim in dead tight along its entire length is a very rare instance, at least it was for us and in time it may open even if you got it tight on instal. Perhaps your millwork is shop finished, then the painters who mate up to it in the field caulk the gaps you leave when finished. I would venture to guess they do. Perhaps you have someone hand plane each piece of trim to meet the inconsistancies of the wall and the trim itself, I dont know. For us the bead of caulk provided a tight finish with very little time and effort. Mark |
#6
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Shauna wrote:
I dont care what industry it is. Unless you have a way, in the field, to pull the casing/trim _dead tight_ against every millimeter of its length along the mating surface you will be left with small gaps which, as I stated, to me make for a substandard end result. So what do you do about all the crap that settles on your fresh site finish? snippage... For us the bead of caulk provided a tight finish with very little time and effort. OK, but I stand by my earlier statement that a shop finish is not a substandard. UA100 |
#7
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Unisaw A100 wrote:
So what do you do about all the crap that settles on your fresh site finish? In a well orchestrated job there is very little "crap" that settles on the "fresh site finish". This is why, many times, the painters will have a floor or the whole house to themselves. How do you think homes get hardwood floors that looking like a bowling alley and better? Granted its not a "clean room" spray booth atmosphere but when you can get a smooth as glass coat of oil urethane (8 hour or more dry time) on a hardwood floor (site finish) I am surely not concered about the paint which is dry in an hour or so worst case for latex, a bit longer for oil which is my choice for millwork. OK, but I stand by my earlier statement that a shop finish is not a substandard. I didnt say the shop finish was substandard, my statement was in relation to the installation of shop finished millwork in the context of the original post. For the average person installing prefinished trim and casing the end result would be substandard as the concensus is that you would get to paint the walls without having to cut anything in then just smack your trim up and you are done. I would imagine this was what the OP was hoping for. A way to paint roughly around all the doors, windows, floors, etc. and then just come in and smack up the trim already painted hence saving the tedium of cutting in. This equals substandard. Thicken up your skin... I am sure the millwork your industry produces is impecable, your job is safe. Mark |
#8
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Mary Shafer wrote:
Why would you do that? I can get caulk that matches my wall paint exactly. No need to paint the caulk at all. Mary It is my opinion that painting the caulk is a better and more seamless job. If caulking after the fact with a custom mixed caulk floats your boat then keep right on paddling. Its not an option we have ever chosen nor one we would ever. Mark |
#9
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Like I said, keep on paddling....
Mark Mary Shafer wrote: On Fri, 25 Jul 2003 19:47:13 -0400, Mark & Shauna wrote: Mary Shafer wrote: Why would you do that? I can get caulk that matches my wall paint exactly. No need to paint the caulk at all. It is my opinion that painting the caulk is a better and more seamless job. If caulking after the fact with a custom mixed caulk floats your boat then keep right on paddling. Its not an option we have ever chosen nor one we would ever. It's not exactly custom mixed. It's a standard caulk color. The guys who put in our shutters said they get it in 55-gal drums. I buy it off the shelf in a somewhat smaller put-up. I think it looks pretty nice, to be honest. No gap, no color change, minor texture change, uniform bead. It seems to handle temperature change better than paint does, too. Mary |
#10
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Shauna wrote:
Thicken up your skin... Heh, heh, heh... I am sure the millwork your industry produces is impecable, your job is safe. Thanks Shauna. Now, what about my raise? UA100 |
#11
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Is there a machine to paint trim/baseboard ?
Shauna wrote:
If you are so far into it that you cant make these connections on your own you need to schedule an appointment "on the couch" _or_ go back and do a couple "non-high end" jobs to regain some perspective. Now Tom, before you go off and begin typing something so fast and furious that your toaster goes up in flames let's try and put this in perspective. Remember the Craftsman apologist Captain Art and his Turd Barge Sears? Remember how he could never be wrong? Remember the puckering sound his sphincter made when anyone said anything contrary to his rulings? Remember the carnage? sigh... The halcyon daze of old. Shauna may just be reacting badly to your reply onna 'count of your agreeing with me. Perhaps she had a bad day this week onna 'count of the guys at the job site were making fun of her tutu clashing with her steel tips. Don't know for sure but I'd hate to see you get dragged into this onna 'count of me. Remember the turd barge. UA100, who thinks Bay Area Dave and Shauna oughtta meet up for the ultimate love connection... |
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