In our concrete basement wall the crack runs from the top of the wall where
it is widest - about 1/8", to a hairline crack 6' down.

My local hardware store sells a SikaFix kit for $Cdn 60. The kit includes
polyurethane mix which is to be injected through included plastic ports
using a caulking gun. I think I understand the principle, however the
concern is: will the pressure from the caulking gun be enough to drive the
polyurethane deep enough to properly seal the crack (I know it expands, but
still...). My local contractor is asking $350 for this job with a 10 year
warranty.

- Would you advise for or against hiring a contractor?
- Does contractor use high pressure injection that would result in a better
seal?
- Did anyone try the SikaFix or similar product, and how were the results?

Thanks.

You need to be concerned about your overall foundation. If the crack is
not properly filled you may have more shifting and more cracks.

I would contact an equipment rental company and tell them what you want
to do. Likely they have a special tool you can rent and do it yourself.

I would search the internet for assistance. On our website we talk
about home inspections and have a section that deals with cracks in the
basement. You may want to check it out.

Steve
@ www.buyingahouseandsavingmoney.com

On 19 Jan 2006 09:41:13 -0800, les wrote:
You need to be concerned about your overall foundation. If the crack is
not properly filled you may have more shifting and more cracks.


Uh, care to explain how filling a 1/8" to hairline crack is supposed to
magically stop a foundation from shifting? You must have some of
that new-fangled Space Warp polyurethane.

1/8" cracks are generally considered to be normal, as long as they
don't start increasing in width. Now, it makes sense to fill it to
prevent moisture and insect ingress, but there's no way in heck
that any crack filling material is going to hold a shifting
foundation together.

snip advertisement from the clueless guy promoting his website

In short, fill the crack to keep things clean inside, and then
monitor it for changes. Otherwise, don't worry about it.

Student wrote:
In our concrete basement wall the crack runs from the top of the wall where
it is widest - about 1/8", to a hairline crack 6' down.

My local hardware store sells a SikaFix kit for $Cdn 60. The kit includes
polyurethane mix which is to be injected through included plastic ports
using a caulking gun. I think I understand the principle, however the
concern is: will the pressure from the caulking gun be enough to drive the
polyurethane deep enough to properly seal the crack (I know it expands, but
still...). My local contractor is asking $350 for this job with a 10 year
warranty.

- Would you advise for or against hiring a contractor?
- Does contractor use high pressure injection that would result in a better
seal?
- Did anyone try the SikaFix or similar product, and how were the results?

Thanks.



I had 3 cracks in my concrete basement wall, fixed by 3 different
contractors within 4 years under builder's warranty.

They are all fixed by injection of epoxy. They first drill holes along
the cracks, and then insert in some nails that are empty in center (kind
like tubes). Then they toast along the crack and clean it. Then epoxy
were injected through the nails.

They all provide with 10 year warranty. The oldest fix is 5 years now.
So far so good. I would prefer an outside fix. But builder would only
pay for the epoxy fixes ($300/crack).

"NaN" wrote in message
...


They are all fixed by injection of epoxy. They first drill holes along the
cracks, and then insert in some nails that are empty in center (kind like
tubes). Then they toast along the crack and clean it. Then epoxy were
injected through the nails.

Do you recall if they used a caulking gun or some other device for
injection?


They all provide with 10 year warranty. The oldest fix is 5 years now. So
far so good. I would prefer an outside fix. But builder would only pay for
the epoxy fixes ($300/crack).

Thanks for sharing this. I wouldn't worry about a 1/8" crack, however, the
water is seeping in through that crack whenever it rains heavily, so I need
to fix this. Got a decision to make...

Student wrote:
"NaN" wrote in message
...


They are all fixed by injection of epoxy. They first drill holes along the
cracks, and then insert in some nails that are empty in center (kind like
tubes). Then they toast along the crack and clean it. Then epoxy were
injected through the nails.


Do you recall if they used a caulking gun or some other device for
injection?


No. Not caulking gun. It was a special gun. The tip is a needle that can
insert into the nails.


They all provide with 10 year warranty. The oldest fix is 5 years now. So
far so good. I would prefer an outside fix. But builder would only pay for
the epoxy fixes ($300/crack).


Thanks for sharing this. I wouldn't worry about a 1/8" crack, however, the
water is seeping in through that crack whenever it rains heavily, so I need
to fix this. Got a decision to make...


We had water near the first crack the 2nd year (2001) we moved into the
new house. Builder sent a contractor for epoxy fix. We got water again
on the 3rd year. The contractor sent by the builder told us to look
along the perimeter of the top of the concrete wall, as cracks always go
from top down (walls are covered by insulation so all cracks are covered).

So we checked that before we finished the basement, and found another
crack, which was fixed by the 3rd contractor sent by the builder.

8Fill crack, once completely dry epoxy a piece of glass across the
crack and add some reference marks so you know if its still moving

make certain outside drains like downspouts all slope awy from house,
gutters are clean, and overall ground slopes away from home.

water is a major cause of things moving

Exactly right. If nothing is coming in leave it alone.


"user" wrote in message
...
On 19 Jan 2006 09:41:13 -0800, les
wrote:
You need to be concerned about your overall foundation. If the crack is
not properly filled you may have more shifting and more cracks.


Uh, care to explain how filling a 1/8" to hairline crack is supposed to
magically stop a foundation from shifting? You must have some of
that new-fangled Space Warp polyurethane.

1/8" cracks are generally considered to be normal, as long as they
don't start increasing in width. Now, it makes sense to fill it to
prevent moisture and insect ingress, but there's no way in heck
that any crack filling material is going to hold a shifting
foundation together.

snip advertisement from the clueless guy promoting his website

In short, fill the crack to keep things clean inside, and then
monitor it for changes. Otherwise, don't worry about it.

If water is coming in you need a french drain outside at worse or fix your
gutters and slope of the lot. Your problem is water, not the crack.


"Student" wrote in message
.. .

In our concrete basement wall the crack runs from the top of the wall
where it is widest - about 1/8", to a hairline crack 6' down.

My local hardware store sells a SikaFix kit for $Cdn 60. The kit includes
polyurethane mix which is to be injected through included plastic ports
using a caulking gun. I think I understand the principle, however the
concern is: will the pressure from the caulking gun be enough to drive the
polyurethane deep enough to properly seal the crack (I know it expands,
but still...). My local contractor is asking $350 for this job with a 10
year warranty.

- Would you advise for or against hiring a contractor?
- Does contractor use high pressure injection that would result in a
better seal?
- Did anyone try the SikaFix or similar product, and how were the results?

Thanks.

On Thu, 19 Jan 2006 14:22:30 -0500, "Student"
wrote:

Thanks for sharing this. I wouldn't worry about a 1/8" crack, however, the
water is seeping in through that crack whenever it rains heavily, so I need
to fix this. Got a decision to make...

I had a house where water was seeping in through one particular wall,
and I learned that the gutter downspout drain (underground and beneath
the house foundation) was clogged. Once we got that rooted out, the
water drained properly and didn't seep into the house. Could that be
your problem, too?

"KLS" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Jan 2006 14:22:30 -0500, "Student"
wrote:

I had a house where water was seeping in through one particular wall,
and I learned that the gutter downspout drain (underground and beneath
the house foundation) was clogged. Once we got that rooted out, the
water drained properly and didn't seep into the house. Could that be
your problem, too?

I don't have any underground gutters, however, the soil in our area is
mostly clay so the water does not drain very well. We have a drench drain,
but the water from it drains into the sump in our basement, so when it rains
heavily, the sump pump works all the time. Funny thing is, despite the clay,
most of the neighbors around me don't have this problem. As for the crack,
I'll have to fix it. I am leaning towards hiring a pro and getting advice
from him on overall solution.

"Student" wrote in message
. ..

.... We have a drench drain,

Should read "french drain".

I don't have any underground gutters, however, the soil in our area is
mostly clay so the water does not drain very well. We have a drench
drain,
but the water from it drains into the sump in our basement, so when it
rains
heavily, the sump pump works all the time. Funny thing is, despite the
clay,
most of the neighbors around me don't have this problem. As for the
crack,
I'll have to fix it. I am leaning towards hiring a pro and getting
advice
from him on overall solution

If the gutters go to downspouts that dump the water at the bottom of
the house....VERY BAD.

You need lines carrying the water well away from your home, either to a
low area or a dry well.

downspouts should never dump water near house.

fix that and your sump pump will run less.

the moving water can wash things out, on way to sump and cause settling

wrote in message
ups.com...

If the gutters go to downspouts that dump the water at the bottom of
the house....VERY BAD.

You need lines carrying the water well away from your home, either to a
low area or a dry well.

downspouts should never dump water near house.

fix that and your sump pump will run less.

the moving water can wash things out, on way to sump and cause settling


Thanks for your advice. One of the three downspouts dumps water on the
driveway, another one in front which has a 8-10 degree slope, and the last
one in the back of the house. I will definitely install extensions on the
latter two, however, I believe that this is not the only reason our sump
pump works more than I'd like. As I said, my neighbors have similar gutter
configuration and yet their sump isn't filling as much.

In article ,
says...

On Thu, 19 Jan 2006 23:44:37 GMT, "Art"
wrote:

If water is coming in you need a french drain outside at worse or fix your
gutters and slope of the lot. Your problem is water, not the crack.


Well said ... make sure downspouts take water well away from house.
Make sure no water is pooling near the house.

He can do that ( prob. already has) and still have the problem, since he has
clay soil.

although, of course, if the downspouts are too close to his house, he should fix
that. But in that kind of terrain it isn't necessarily the be-all and end-all.

Banty