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		<title>DIYbanter</title>
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		<description>A forum for diy discussions acting as a gateway with the finest do-it-yourself and home improvement newsgroups.</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 06:30:26 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<item>
			<title>drain de greaser / biological something for septic tanks?</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356865-drain-de-greaser-biological-something-septic-tanks.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 05:32:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I had a blocked drain from kitchen  to septic tank,  OH couldn't clear it 
with rods etc  so we sent for a man (I have an insurance  for such...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I had a blocked drain from kitchen  to septic tank,  OH couldn't clear it <br />
with rods etc  so we sent for a man (I have an insurance  for such things). <br />
He blasted it with some power jet thing and  and cleared it but pulled back <br />
some hard stuff that had been blocking it. He said it was fat or grease <br />
build up and to get some stuff which would digest the grease and clear the <br />
drain/ septic tank.<br />
<br />
Although he seemed fairly knowledgeable on septic tanks, he didn't know the <br />
name of this stuff ( came from the city nearby) . So does anyone know what <br />
this stuff is called?  Also, has anyone used it, does it work and is it safe <br />
for my old, type septic brick built  tank (not Karglaseter or whatever they <br />
are called) .<br />
<br />
All helpful replies appreciated as usual. Thanks in advance. <br />
<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/">UK diy</category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[sweetheart[_2_]]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356865-drain-de-greaser-biological-something-septic-tanks.html</guid>
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			<title>tree roots and my basement</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356863-tree-roots-my-basement.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 01:49:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hi 
first sorry if this topic is not related to this group but I am hoping I will get the answer here because many people here are very...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hi <br />
first sorry if this topic is not related to this group but I am hoping I will get the answer here because many people here are very knowledgeable.<br />
<br />
I have these trees which are 3-4 meters away from my house foundation. They were small 2-3 years ago. Now they are getting really big. It scares me that these tree will get even bigger and bigger and eventually the roots will hit the foundation and cause a lot of problems since the house is 80 years old.<br />
<br />
Do you have any idea what is the name of these trees and how big it can go? and how far the root can go. Right now they are just 3-4 meters away. The following links show the trees. Thanks a lot.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://tinypic.com/r/2vuihpj/5" target="_blank">http://tinypic.com/r/2vuihpj/5</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://tinypic.com/r/bf4zl4/5" target="_blank">http://tinypic.com/r/bf4zl4/5</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://tinypic.com/r/2z820zn/5" target="_blank">http://tinypic.com/r/2z820zn/5</a><br />
<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/">Home Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>leza wang</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356863-tree-roots-my-basement.html</guid>
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			<title>Durable finish for exterior wood sign.</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356862-durable-finish-exterior-wood-sign.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 26 May 2013 00:04:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[It's late and I can't sleep. Been to our daughters wedding today, that's a 
reason, not an excuse.

I'm making a house sign for the newly weds home....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>It's late and I can't sleep. Been to our daughters wedding today, that's a <br />
reason, not an excuse.<br />
<br />
I'm making a house sign for the newly weds home. This will be exposed to the <br />
elements.<br />
Made of solid oak. Fretsaw cut lettering applied to a solid base board.<br />
Intention is to stain the base dark and leave the lettering natural -ish.<br />
Any recs please for a durable and low maintenance clear finish for the <br />
completed sign?<br />
Thanks,<br />
Nick. <br />
<br />
<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/">UK diy</category>
			<dc:creator>Nick</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356862-durable-finish-exterior-wood-sign.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Toilet follow up</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356861-toilet-follow-up.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 22:16:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Couple of week ago I asked about toilets.  I ended up getting a Kohler
1.6 gallon flush.  Works well.

I got the "Comfort Height" elongated bowl and...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Couple of week ago I asked about toilets.  I ended up getting a Kohler<br />
1.6 gallon flush.  Works well.<br />
<br />
I got the &quot;Comfort Height&quot; elongated bowl and I'd recommend it for<br />
anyone over 60 or with joint problems.  My wife is recovering from<br />
surgery and it makes a  huge difference for her.  <br />
<br />
I'm going to overhaul the upstairs bathroom and I'll put a similar<br />
model up there also.  <br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/">Home Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Ed Pawlowski</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356861-toilet-follow-up.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Re: fecha de la prueba</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356860-re-fecha-de-la-prueba.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 21:38:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[On 09/15/2018 04:26 PM, homme de la maison wrote:
> fecha de la prueba


Huh?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>On 09/15/2018 04:26 PM, homme de la maison wrote:<font color="blue"><i><br />
&gt; fecha de la prueba</i></font><br />
<br />
<br />
Huh?<br />
<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/">Home Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Mike</dc:creator>
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			<title>Transmix utility mixer...</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356859-transmix-utility-mixer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 20:40:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>This is a stretch for sure but, nothing ventured, nothing gained...

Have old (as in late 50s/very early 60s) utility mixer that was mounted 
on old...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>This is a stretch for sure but, nothing ventured, nothing gained...<br />
<br />
Have old (as in late 50s/very early 60s) utility mixer that was mounted <br />
on old Farmall 560 w/ the two-point connection system and two other <br />
brackets around the rear axles.  No longer have the 560; was looking at <br />
trying to rig up a mount for either the JD 4440 or little 955 utility <br />
tractor (or perhaps even just make a fixed platform and and convert it <br />
into essentially a stationary mixer since the cab on the 4440 is in the <br />
way and there's not much of any way to mount the solid shaft to the rear <br />
PTO to hold the weight and the little 955 isn't much more convenient it <br />
appears, but I've not yet totally given it up)<br />
<br />
Anyway, the Transmix was/is a 3-pt (or similar since IH had 2-pt at the <br />
time) mixer that ran off the PTO using a center hub on the PTO and a <br />
tire mounted on the rear of the drum as the driving mechanism.  It was <br />
on a tilting cradle that let you drive to a pour site and dump there. <br />
We used it to pour all the bunks for the feedlots back then.<br />
<br />
The point of the posting is while have all the pieces, it's been so long <br />
since it used it I can't recall precisely how it assembled and if <br />
anybody just out of the blue had access to manual or pictures on an IH <br />
it would aid significantly in sorting it out.  Can't believe in all the <br />
manuals there are here(*) I can't find where Dad must have squirreled <br />
this one away...<br />
<br />
They were built by an outfit called Universal Pulleys Co. in Wichita, <br />
KS.  AFAICT they are no more and apparently haven't been for quite some <br />
time.<br />
<br />
Here's a link to one on a Ford 850; the one here has a different <br />
mounting arrangement by enough that that picture is of minimal help on <br />
the pieces-parts that I can't quite figure out orientation of as yet to <br />
make it work.  The cradle that the drum rolls on is similar but not the <br />
remainder of the framework isn't at all similar.  Part of difficulty is <br />
I don't have/know distances and/or heights from the axles, etc., of the <br />
560 so can't precisely locate a reference point to start from.<br />
<br />
&lt;http://mmg.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/Jim.UT/TransMix/mixer01lr.jpg.html&gt;<br />
<br />
I'm sure eventually I can get it worked out but just took a break and <br />
thought would ask -- if nothing else, others might find it an <br />
interesting piece of gear...<br />
<br />
(*) Like a like-new manual for 1920s Farmall and a Twin City Model 30 or <br />
....  :)<br />
<br />
--<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/">Home Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>dpb</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[FYI: Small "Toro" riding mowers are actually MTD]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356858-fyi-small-toro-riding-mowers-actually-mtd.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 20:33:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Went to local Toro dealer to check out a small (42-in) riding mower, 
only to be told that they don't sell them because they are not really 
Toro....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Went to local Toro dealer to check out a small (42-in) riding mower, <br />
only to be told that they don't sell them because they are not really <br />
Toro. They sell the walk-behinds and the Zero-turn Toro machines, but in <br />
the range in which I was interested they sell only Ariens.<br />
<br />
Perce<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/">Home Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>Percival P. Cassidy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356858-fyi-small-toro-riding-mowers-actually-mtd.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Hozelock - WTF?!?</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356854-hozelock-wtf.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 19:52:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Our venerable hose reel refuses to accept a push-on connector any
more. No problem thinks I, I've got a spare tap fitting that looks
like it'll do...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Our venerable hose reel refuses to accept a push-on connector any<br />
more. No problem thinks I, I've got a spare tap fitting that looks<br />
like it'll do the job, unscrew the fitting from the hose reel<br />
and...it's a different size to the tap fitting! What is the ****ing<br />
point of making two otherwise identically shaped bits of plastic with<br />
two different thread diameters?<br />
<br />
--<br />
Halmyre<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/">UK diy</category>
			<dc:creator>Halmyre</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356854-hozelock-wtf.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Incoming Water Main</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356853-incoming-water-main.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 19:44:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am having an extension which will require the incoming water main (Blue 
Plastic) to be re-routed into the new bit.
Are there any rules about how...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am having an extension which will require the incoming water main (Blue <br />
Plastic) to be re-routed into the new bit.<br />
Are there any rules about how the pipe should enter the property?<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/">UK diy</category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[DerbyBorn[_4_]]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356853-incoming-water-main.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Advertising Led Acrylic displays, Crystal Acrylic craft is amazingfor the movie poster</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/metalworking/356855-advertising-led-acrylic-displays-crystal-acrylic-craft-amazingfor-movie-poster.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 19:20:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>When I go to a shopping mall, I see a lot of beautiful Crystal Advertising Acrylic displays, it attracted me to see the movie.
And then I found a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>When I go to a shopping mall, I see a lot of beautiful Crystal Advertising Acrylic displays, it attracted me to see the movie.<br />
And then I found a leading supplier for Advertising Led Acrylic displays, Crystal Acrylic Led light box in China:<br />
Guangzhou Beyond LED Light Box Factory  <a href="http://www.86lightbox.com" target="_blank">http://www.86lightbox.com</a><br />
I have got some crystal photo frame from the factory.<br />
Very beautiful!<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/metalworking/">Metalworking</category>
			<dc:creator>86handbag@gmail.com</dc:creator>
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			<title>eWoodShop - Two Bathroom Refresh-2013</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/woodworking/356851-ewoodshop-two-bathroom-refresh-2013-a.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:30:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>https://plus.google.com/photos/111355467778981859077/albums/5881931924660461905?noredirect=1

-- 
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop:...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><br />
<a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/111355467778981859077/albums/5881931924660461905?noredirect=1" target="_blank">https://plus.google.com/photos/11135...5?noredirect=1</a><br />
<br />
-- <br />
eWoodShop: <a href="http://www.eWoodShop.com" target="_blank">www.eWoodShop.com</a><br />
Wood Shop: <a href="http://www.e-WoodShop.net" target="_blank">www.e-WoodShop.net</a><br />
<a href="https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts" target="_blank">https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts</a><br />
<a href="http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/" target="_blank">http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/</a><br />
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/woodworking/">Woodworking</category>
			<dc:creator>Swingman</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/woodworking/356851-ewoodshop-two-bathroom-refresh-2013-a.html</guid>
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			<title>Oven will not heat up</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356852-oven-will-not-heat-up.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:30:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi,

I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301.  One day when it was on it 
tripped the curcut on my circuit board.   When I flipped the circuit...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
<br />
I have a Kenmore range Model # 790.95889301.  One day when it was on it <br />
tripped the curcut on my circuit board.   When I flipped the circuit <br />
breaker back on the stove would heat up but not the oven or broiler.  What <br />
could be wrong with it?<br />
<br />
thank you<br />
<br />
Bob<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/">Home Repair</category>
			<dc:creator>BM</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/356852-oven-will-not-heat-up.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>What to use as packer?</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356848-what-use-packer.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 18:13:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>On advice here I went and bought a load of :

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Post+Base/p29420

Bolting down with 10mm Thunder Bolts

First off...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>On advice here I went and bought a load of :<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Post+Base/p29420" target="_blank">http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Post+Base/p29420</a><br />
<br />
Bolting down with 10mm Thunder Bolts<br />
<br />
First off impressed Toolstation didn't have the 22 of them I needed ... <br />
they took order for 17 shortage for free delivery to home address ... <br />
don't offer Sat delivery, but I asked customer service and they said .. <br />
OK - sorted delivered today (BH weekend)<br />
<br />
<br />
Anyway the Q ..... For 18 of posts they fit perfect as the posts are 100 <br />
x100 sawn<br />
<br />
4 of the posts though are regularized planed as these are 2.4m long and <br />
will be on show (sawn posts all hidden)<br />
<br />
Unfortunately being planned means they are 92 x 92  ... so I need to fit <br />
an 8mm packer between post &amp; fixing, and then screw through <br />
fitting/packer into post.   Has to be something that will last years out <br />
doors.<br />
<br />
Any suggestions of what to use ?<br />
<br />
I could cut some strips of code 5 lead flashing ?<br />
<br />
Seems a waste to go buy a sheet of 8mm wbp   just to make four  35 x 100 <br />
packers.<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/">UK diy</category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[Rick Hughes[_5_]]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356848-what-use-packer.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Hedge trimmers - recommendations</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356847-hedge-trimmers-recommendations.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 17:45:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have a fairly large (> 2m tall) quite mature laurel hedge both sides
of my garden (perhaps totalling 30meters or more). The cells for my
current...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a fairly large (&gt; 2m tall) quite mature laurel hedge both sides<br />
of my garden (perhaps totalling 30meters or more). The cells for my<br />
current Bosch cordless are dead and I rather suspect I'd do as well<br />
replacing a slightly knackered trimmer with a new one rather than<br />
buying new cells - I'm not convinced of the state of the current blade<br />
either.<br />
<br />
I'm happy to have a mains-powered rather than cordless. Any<br />
recommendations? Is Machine Mart a good source?<br />
<br />
Mark (due to trim hedges sooner rather than later).<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/">UK diy</category>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[Mark Bluemel[_3_]]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356847-hedge-trimmers-recommendations.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>insulating chimney breast</title>
			<link>http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/356846-insulating-chimney-breast.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 25 May 2013 17:32:34 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So, the room with the fireplace that we have decided to keep for the time being, is to be redecorated. We took all the paper off, and now it was...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So, the room with the fireplace that we have decided to keep for the time being, is to be redecorated. We took all the paper off, and now it was obvious some of the plaster needs redoing. It's on an external wall. Either side of the chimney breast now has no plaster and will receive some insulated plasterboard (25mm PIR foam backed as cannot afford to lose more space, but it all helps).<br />
<br />
Not sure about the chimney breast itself. Plaster needs patching up above the picture rail and the whole thing needs a re-skim. So we may go back to brick on the chimney breast as well.<br />
<br />
Now, if the open fire was to be used regularly to actually heat the house, the chimney breast would be a source of radiant heat. But since the fire will hardly be used, and when it is, just for effect really, it may make sense to insulate the chimney breast as well.<br />
<br />
Obviously the breast needs to be able to cope with heat, so can I used PIR backed plasterboard in this situation ? And how should it be fixed ?<br />
If not, what method can be used to insulate the chimney breast that can cope with the heat ?<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
Simon.<br />
</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diybanter.com/uk-diy/">UK diy</category>
			<dc:creator>sm_jamieson</dc:creator>
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