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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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RCA: 46" Projection RPTV--How To Remove The Front Cover????
Hi everyone,
I have gotten my very first CTC169PG chassis in the shop with a bad HV Splitter. I am trying to access it via the front and I'm having trouble taking the front cover off. Does this just snap off or is there some hidden screws that I don't know about? Thanks! Mac |
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On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 08:48:06 -0600, "Rocker" wrote:
Hi everyone, I have gotten my very first CTC169PG chassis in the shop with a bad HV Splitter. I am trying to access it via the front and I'm having trouble taking the front cover off. Does this just snap off or is there some hidden screws that I don't know about? Thanks! Mac Mac, The speaker cover is just held in place by friction and plastic velcro. Give it hard tug at one corner, it follows easier after getting one corner freed. I'm surprised you got a first 169 with bad HV splitter unless you just came to electronic service recently. I had to do two today. Few advices: Hot glue all the centering rings, they're very loose and bumped out of position rather easily. Vacuum up or blow out dust. Unplug all 5 ground spades and both Red and green plugs, pull red and green CRT boards to lay closer to the bottom of lightbox will give you room to work on HV block depending on model design. HV splitter block is held in place by two 1/4" hex screws. Each four HV leads and focus/screen lead has rubber sleeve if stuck in the HV block, fashion a dull hook with slim handle, the finger very short to snag the sleeves out of block. 4 of them and one for focus/screen lead. Use RCA HV blocks (p/n 205064, appox 110 cdn cost, not dealer or retail.), generics are poor quality electrically and physically, generic's included plastic sleeves poorly made and impossible to use. New HV blocks does not include the rubber sleeves, have to reuse them after cleaning, buy them new or make them if one of them is damaged or missing. Clean both rubber, plastic sleeves and leads all the way back as possible as you can with 99% alcohol. Recently, RCA sent new HV blocks with all black sleeves which is too small except if one of those leads is slim type use that, otherwise reuse the old sleeves. Too loose (slim lead) or missing rubber sleeves, cut a section from long tailed tapered tube of a black suction cup from your RCA scraps. RCA call this gaskets and cost about 5 each. EACH!!? Before inserting leads into HV block, set up both sleeves on a lead close to the end of insulation with bare wire straghtened out and checked for correct length of bare wire. Install it and snap the sleeve in place all the way in. Push down the wire lead very firmly with pliers to seat wire all the way in. It is fiddly job, you will feel end of bare wire punched through waxy stuff at the bottom of cavity. If missed, you will know it. Dielectric silicone grease helps to slide in easier if this job is hard to push that plastic sleeve wire assembly into HV block. If the HV block has small board that is part of HV regulator feedback, transfer this tiny board to new block, red wire is HV ref, black is Ref gound (GND). Wrap wire around stakes then solder both. Plastic sleeves color coding: Red for HV input. Green for RGB HV output leads. Black for Focus/screen lead. Cheers, Wizard |
#3
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There was one cabinet made by RCA that has a front cover that is very difficult
to get off; the bottom of the cover is held on by four 1/4" screws located on the bottom surface of the lower wooden trim. Very hard to remove with TV sitting on the floor. Easier to remove the light box from the rear and replace the HV block that way. |
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Thanks everyone for all your replies! This helped greatly!!!!
"Jason D." wrote in message ... On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 08:48:06 -0600, "Rocker" wrote: Hi everyone, I have gotten my very first CTC169PG chassis in the shop with a bad HV Splitter. I am trying to access it via the front and I'm having trouble taking the front cover off. Does this just snap off or is there some hidden screws that I don't know about? Thanks! Mac Mac, The speaker cover is just held in place by friction and plastic velcro. Give it hard tug at one corner, it follows easier after getting one corner freed. I'm surprised you got a first 169 with bad HV splitter unless you just came to electronic service recently. I had to do two today. Few advices: Hot glue all the centering rings, they're very loose and bumped out of position rather easily. Vacuum up or blow out dust. Unplug all 5 ground spades and both Red and green plugs, pull red and green CRT boards to lay closer to the bottom of lightbox will give you room to work on HV block depending on model design. HV splitter block is held in place by two 1/4" hex screws. Each four HV leads and focus/screen lead has rubber sleeve if stuck in the HV block, fashion a dull hook with slim handle, the finger very short to snag the sleeves out of block. 4 of them and one for focus/screen lead. Use RCA HV blocks (p/n 205064, appox 110 cdn cost, not dealer or retail.), generics are poor quality electrically and physically, generic's included plastic sleeves poorly made and impossible to use. New HV blocks does not include the rubber sleeves, have to reuse them after cleaning, buy them new or make them if one of them is damaged or missing. Clean both rubber, plastic sleeves and leads all the way back as possible as you can with 99% alcohol. Recently, RCA sent new HV blocks with all black sleeves which is too small except if one of those leads is slim type use that, otherwise reuse the old sleeves. Too loose (slim lead) or missing rubber sleeves, cut a section from long tailed tapered tube of a black suction cup from your RCA scraps. RCA call this gaskets and cost about 5 each. EACH!!? Before inserting leads into HV block, set up both sleeves on a lead close to the end of insulation with bare wire straghtened out and checked for correct length of bare wire. Install it and snap the sleeve in place all the way in. Push down the wire lead very firmly with pliers to seat wire all the way in. It is fiddly job, you will feel end of bare wire punched through waxy stuff at the bottom of cavity. If missed, you will know it. Dielectric silicone grease helps to slide in easier if this job is hard to push that plastic sleeve wire assembly into HV block. If the HV block has small board that is part of HV regulator feedback, transfer this tiny board to new block, red wire is HV ref, black is Ref gound (GND). Wrap wire around stakes then solder both. Plastic sleeves color coding: Red for HV input. Green for RGB HV output leads. Black for Focus/screen lead. Cheers, Wizard |
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