Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil

Circumstances: Dynaco SCA-35 that may be best described as "neglected" , as follows:

Filthy with greasy grit - what I would consider to be kitchen-type grease mixed with black grit similar to what landed on windowsills when I grew up in NYC, with regular dust co-mingled. To the point that individual components on the boards were very nearly indistinguishable.

Most of the controls sprayed with white lithium grease that had hardened to near-concrete status.

Most of the rotary controls frozen - hard. The exceptions being the rear hum-pots that had never been touched, and so remained operable.

Process: Rinse the entire shebang in WD-40, purchased in bulk and delivered via pressurized refillable aerosol can. Probably a pint used overall. Done over a trash-can with some kitty-litter on the bottom. This loosened the skunge. Rinse with CRC, over the same trash-can after 24 hours. This pretty much removed the _EXPOSED_ skunge on the controls, switches and boards. All of a sudden individual components became visible. Flushed the controls with WD and CRC - amazing the amount of waxy crap that came out.

Wipe down with lint-free cloth, stiff artists' oil brushes and high-proof isopropyl alcohol.

Apply lubricating cleaner to all rotary and sliding controls.
Apply Liquid Wrench to all shafts.
24 hours.
3 of 5 controls were free. Bass & Selector-switch still frozen, hard.
Apply Kroil. 12 hours. Re-apply Kroil.

All shafts are free.

More basic cleaning. Check _every_ connection with a dental pick. Tighten all tube bases. Apply power, no tubes. All good. 40 minutes, no unusual heat signatures.

Add tubes. Short inputs. As above, draws 85 watts, below nameplate of 110 watts. 1 hour, all voltages stable and correct.

Add speakers and signal - Voila! Sound, hum and buzz-free. All controls working properly.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Default WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil

On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 10:54:45 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Circumstances: Dynaco SCA-35 that may be best described as "neglected" , as follows:

Filthy with greasy grit - what I would consider to be kitchen-type grease mixed with black grit similar to what landed on windowsills when I grew up in NYC, with regular dust co-mingled. To the point that individual components on the boards were very nearly indistinguishable.

Most of the controls sprayed with white lithium grease that had hardened to near-concrete status.

Most of the rotary controls frozen - hard. The exceptions being the rear hum-pots that had never been touched, and so remained operable.

Process: Rinse the entire shebang in WD-40, purchased in bulk and delivered via pressurized refillable aerosol can. Probably a pint used overall. Done over a trash-can with some kitty-litter on the bottom. This loosened the skunge. Rinse with CRC, over the same trash-can after 24 hours. This pretty much removed the _EXPOSED_ skunge on the controls, switches and boards. All of a sudden individual components became visible. Flushed the controls with WD and CRC - amazing the amount of waxy crap that came out.

Wipe down with lint-free cloth, stiff artists' oil brushes and high-proof isopropyl alcohol.

Apply lubricating cleaner to all rotary and sliding controls.
Apply Liquid Wrench to all shafts.
24 hours.
3 of 5 controls were free. Bass & Selector-switch still frozen, hard.
Apply Kroil. 12 hours. Re-apply Kroil.

All shafts are free.

I've got a jar of Kroil from my neighbor.
I read somewhere about ATF* plus acetone and
a third thing.. ethyl alcohol? that was 'better'
for unsticking nuts and bolts.
I never tried it.

George H.
*Automatic Transmission Fluid

More basic cleaning. Check _every_ connection with a dental pick. Tighten all tube bases. Apply power, no tubes. All good. 40 minutes, no unusual heat signatures.

Add tubes. Short inputs. As above, draws 85 watts, below nameplate of 110 watts. 1 hour, all voltages stable and correct.

Add speakers and signal - Voila! Sound, hum and buzz-free. All controls working properly.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA




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Default WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil

On 2/12/19 9:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
That depends on how its tested and who's doing the testing:
"Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs


I've seen this before, I serious question his results.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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Default WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil

On Tue, 12 Feb 2019 22:24:11 -0600, Fox's Mercantile
wrote:

On 2/12/19 9:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
That depends on how its tested and who's doing the testing:
"Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs


I've seen this before, I serious question his results.


I'm starting to think that penetrating oils don't help much with
the initial torque required to break a fastener loose. But once even a
little movement happens the oil can then act as a lubricant and help
prevent galling as the fasteners are turned.
But I am not convinced because of one particular case. An antique
rifle of mine has a flip up peep sight. The peep sight can be adjusted
by turning a knurled collar. When I got the rifle it was obvious that
the collar was stuck pretty good because there was damage to the knurl
from pliers. I tried various penetrating oil over the years and could
never get the collar to trurn. Then a few years ago I tried using some
Break Free on the thing. I wet the assembly in the evening and the
next morning I was able to turn the collar with just my fingers. Not
easily at first. But I was able to get the thing apart and it was
rust that washed out of the collar and off of the screw.
Eric
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Default WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil

On Wed, 13 Feb 2019 16:38:51 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...
he collar was stuck pretty good because there was damage to the knurl
from pliers. I tried various penetrating oil over the years and could
never get the collar to trurn. Then a few years ago I tried using some
Break Free on the thing. I wet the assembly in the evening and the
next morning I was able to turn the collar with just my fingers. Not
easily at first. But I was able to get the thing apart and it was
rust that washed out of the collar and off of the screw.
Eric



Waiting overnight or even 2 or so days making sure the part stay wet
often works very well. Many will spray the part and expect it to be
free in about 10 seconds.

I know about the waiting bit. I had tried that several times on the
sight. Then gave up for years. Then tried the Break Free stuff. I'm
not sure why it wouked when nothing else did.
Eric
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Default WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil

I've always had reasonable success heating the part, then as it cools applying PB Blaster. Time. Then applying mechanical impact -- that seems to be the trifecta.

A few taps with a hammer, or an impact wrench, or the back of a crescent wrench, almost without fail will loosen the suspect nut or bolt.

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