Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default using acetone to clean audio cassette heads

On Wednesday, August 2, 2000 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, GHilgenber wrote:
I have a ford ranger and the cassette player has a lot of static the radio
plays fine.I have demagnetizer and cleaning tapes I was thinking of using
acetone on the heads?


Use a cleaning tape or the like . Chemicals and liquids can harm rollers and other plastic / rubber parts . Alcohol will dry out the oils in plastics and rubber , causing them to harden . Acetone will tend to dissolve these materials .
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On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 10:07:57 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2000 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, GHilgenber wrote:
I have a ford ranger and the cassette player has a lot of static the radio
plays fine.I have demagnetizer and cleaning tapes I was thinking of using
acetone on the heads?


Use a cleaning tape or the like . Chemicals and liquids can harm rollers and other plastic / rubber parts . Alcohol will dry out the oils in plastics and rubber , causing them to harden . Acetone will tend to dissolve these materials .


All those materials are 19 years older than when this topic was initiated.... So yeah, I bet they're dried out.
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On Wednesday, 9 January 2019 16:12:46 UTC, Terry Schwartz wrote:
On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 10:07:57 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2000 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, GHilgenber wrote:


I have a ford ranger and the cassette player has a lot of static the radio
plays fine.I have demagnetizer and cleaning tapes I was thinking of using
acetone on the heads?


Use a cleaning tape or the like . Chemicals and liquids can harm rollers and other plastic / rubber parts . Alcohol will dry out the oils in plastics and rubber , causing them to harden . Acetone will tend to dissolve these materials .


All those materials are 19 years older than when this topic was initiated.... So yeah, I bet they're dried out.


cleaning tapes are almost hopeless anyway. Wet cleaning is the only effective option.

Don't use rubbing alcohol, it contains oil. Vodka is fine. Clean the pinch wheels as well. All must be bone dry before putting a tape in.


NT
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On Thursday, 10 January 2019 04:12:57 UTC, The Real Bev wrote:
On 01/09/2019 11:03 AM, tabbypurr wrote:
On Wednesday, 9 January 2019 16:12:46 UTC, Terry Schwartz wrote:
On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 10:07:57 AM UTC-6,
wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2000 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, GHilgenber
wrote:


I have a ford ranger and the cassette player has a lot of
static the radio plays fine.I have demagnetizer and cleaning
tapes I was thinking of using acetone on the heads?

Use a cleaning tape or the like . Chemicals and liquids can harm
rollers and other plastic / rubber parts . Alcohol will dry out
the oils in plastics and rubber , causing them to harden .
Acetone will tend to dissolve these materials .

All those materials are 19 years older than when this topic was
initiated.... So yeah, I bet they're dried out.


cleaning tapes are almost hopeless anyway. Wet cleaning is the only
effective option.

Don't use rubbing alcohol, it contains oil. Vodka is fine. Clean the
pinch wheels as well. All must be bone dry before putting a tape in.


The heads are metal. No worries about hardening. Who told you there
was oil in rubbing alcohol? It's alcohol and water. Period.


I forget the official standard for it, but it contains rather more than water & alcohol. Looked it up last year.


NT
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The body of the head is made of molded resin.
The magnetic element is made of polished folded iron.(try to look with a
microscope).
I go on saying that a good quality cleaning head is useful.
Don't forget to adjust the azimuth setting at the end.


gregz a écrit le 10/01/2019 Ã* 09:07Â*:
The Real Bev wrote:
On 01/09/2019 11:03 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, 9 January 2019 16:12:46 UTC, Terry Schwartz wrote:
On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 10:07:57 AM UTC-6,
wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2000 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, GHilgenber
wrote:
I have a ford ranger and the cassette player has a lot of
static the radio plays fine.I have demagnetizer and cleaning
tapes I was thinking of using acetone on the heads?
Use a cleaning tape or the like . Chemicals and liquids can harm
rollers and other plastic / rubber parts . Alcohol will dry out
the oils in plastics and rubber , causing them to harden .
Acetone will tend to dissolve these materials .
All those materials are 19 years older than when this topic was
initiated.... So yeah, I bet they're dried out.
cleaning tapes are almost hopeless anyway. Wet cleaning is the only
effective option.

Don't use rubbing alcohol, it contains oil. Vodka is fine. Clean the
pinch wheels as well. All must be bone dry before putting a tape in.

The heads are metal. No worries about hardening. Who told you there was
oil in rubbing alcohol? It's alcohol and water. Period.

Heads have some insulating material imbedded. Real rubbing alcohol is
supposed to have oil to prevent skin drying too much. Most don't. Isopropyl
or ethyl cleans heads.

Greg


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And I suppose you have to pause your 25/hr 8-day-a-week smoking habit during this time too, right?
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On Wednesday, August 2, 2000 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, GHilgenber wrote:


I have a ford ranger and the cassette player has a lot of static the radio
plays fine.I have demagnetizer and cleaning tapes I was thinking of using
acetone on the heads?


As other have pointed out, the OP made his request almost 19 years
ago, but since everyone here seems to be discussing the merits of
various head cleaning methods, I have a question. How can "static" be
a symptom of dirty tape heads? Drop outs - yes. Loss of highs - yes.
Static? Sounds more like a bad connection or static electricity being
generated somewhere.


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On 1/10/19 10:37 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article -
september.org, says...

Don't use rubbing alcohol, it contains oil. Vodka is fine.
Clean the pinch wheels as well. All must be bone dry before
putting a tape in.

The heads are metal. No worries about hardening. Who told you
there was oil in rubbing alcohol? It's alcohol and water.
Period.


Heads have some insulating material imbedded. Real rubbing alcohol
is supposed to have oil to prevent skin drying too much. Most
don't. Isopropyl or ethyl cleans heads.



Rubbing alcohol seems to be a gernetic term by many.

One form is about 70% alcohol and some oils and water.

You can buy some that is about 90% alcohol and 10 % water with no
other oils in it. I have some here labled 91 % and some labled 99%.
They are isoprople alcohol and not labled rubbing alcohol. Alcohol
absorbs water from the atmosphere so before long the 99% will be much
less if open to the air.

Xylene was used at one time to clean the tape machinery. I am not
sure if it is in the stores any more or not.


Some rubbing alcohol is 80% isopropyl and 20% water. That has very
different properties, and will craze acrylics instantaneously. It also
leaves residues that cause enormous amounts of 1/f noise in front end
circuits.

Everclear is much better controlled.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
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On 1/10/19 9:37 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
Rubbing alcohol seems to be a gernetic term by many.

One form is about 70% alcohol and some oils and water.


Or you can just buy Denatured alcohol.

Xylene was used at one time to clean the tape machinery. I am not sure
if it is in the stores any more or not.


It is available in the paint section.


--
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WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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In article ,
wrote:
On Thursday, 10 January 2019 04:12:57 UTC, The Real Bev wrote:


The heads are metal. No worries about hardening. Who told you there
was oil in rubbing alcohol? It's alcohol and water. Period.


I forget the official standard for it, but it contains rather more than water & alcohol. Looked it up last year.


"Rubbing alcohol" is addressed by several different USP standards.

"Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol USP" is defined as 70% isopropyl alcohol
(plus or minus a couple of percent) by volume, the remainder
"water, with or without suitable stabilizers, perfume oils, and color
additives certified by the FDA for use in drugs." So, even drugstore
isopropyl alcohol can have components other than alcohol and water.

"Rubbing Alcohol USP" (without the word "isopropyl") is ethanol,
water, denaturants (e.g. sucrose octaacetate or denatonium benzoate),
"with or without color additives, and perfume oils."

Some commercial rubbing alcohol used to contain lanolin, to help keep
the skin from drying out; I don't know if any still does.

If you don't see the term "USP" on the label, then whatever you're
buying may not comply with the USP standards I mentioned.

Outside the US things are even more complex; British "surgical
spirit" is methylated spirit (ethanol denatured with methanol),
castor oil, diethyl phthalate, and methyl salicylate ("wintergreen
oil").

(Relevant information cribbed from the Wikipedia article on rubbing
alcohol, and the newdruginfo.com links which cite the USP
definitions).

For electronics cleaning purposes such as tape-deck heads, I prefer to
buy technical-grade isopropyl alcohol. My local Frys carries the
Puretronics brand ($9/quart).


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Some "Stuff":

Acetone (C3H6O) will attack spolyester resin, many two-part epoxies, ABS plastics, polystyrene, some forms of nylon, lacquer, shellac, unstabilzed celluloid and superglue.

Denatured Alcohol (C2H5OH)is ETHANOL with some other ingredient added to render it unfit for consumption. Typically that "other" is wood alcohol/methanol.

"Rubbing Alcohol" (C3H7OH) is, typically some mixture to include isopropyl alcohol, water and any number of other ingredients, including scents and lubricants.

"Wood Alcohol/Methanol/Stove Fuel" CH3OH) will attack a range of plastics.

https://www.plasticsintl.com/chemical-resistance-chart

A few actual facts do help speed the discussion along. Not to be snarky even a little bit, as I was somewhat surprised by the sensitivities of some things on the list.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


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Adding to Dave's post - a bit of history:


"In 1906, President Theodore Roosevelt signed the Pure Food and Drug Act into law. The law elevated the public health role of the United States Pharmacopeia because it defined a drug as €œall medicines and preparations recognized in the United States Pharmacopeia (USP) or National Formulary (NF),€ and defined adulterated drugs as those referenced in the USP and NF but differing from €œthe standard of strength, quality, or purity€ specified in the two compendia. The practice of labeling medicines with the letters €œU.S.P.€ or €œUSP€ became more prevalent. In 1938, the Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act reaffirmed the role of the pharmacopeia and expanded its role to include USP standards for labeling and packaging. "

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

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On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 08:07:13 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

The Real Bev wrote:
On 01/09/2019 11:03 AM, wrote:
On Wednesday, 9 January 2019 16:12:46 UTC, Terry Schwartz wrote:
On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 10:07:57 AM UTC-6,
wrote:
On Wednesday, August 2, 2000 at 3:00:00 AM UTC-4, GHilgenber
wrote:

I have a ford ranger and the cassette player has a lot of
static the radio plays fine.I have demagnetizer and cleaning
tapes I was thinking of using acetone on the heads?

Use a cleaning tape or the like . Chemicals and liquids can harm
rollers and other plastic / rubber parts . Alcohol will dry out
the oils in plastics and rubber , causing them to harden .
Acetone will tend to dissolve these materials .

All those materials are 19 years older than when this topic was
initiated.... So yeah, I bet they're dried out.

cleaning tapes are almost hopeless anyway. Wet cleaning is the only
effective option.

Don't use rubbing alcohol, it contains oil. Vodka is fine. Clean the
pinch wheels as well. All must be bone dry before putting a tape in.


The heads are metal. No worries about hardening. Who told you there was
oil in rubbing alcohol? It's alcohol and water. Period.


Heads have some insulating material imbedded. Real rubbing alcohol is
supposed to have oil to prevent skin drying too much. Most don't. Isopropyl
or ethyl cleans heads.

Greg


I have used isopropyl alcohol all my long life for audio and video
heads. Works well.....

Acetone is very harsh and will melt plastic and remove paint. I will not
use it for this....

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On Thursday, 10 January 2019 20:08:06 UTC, Dave Platt wrote:
In article ,
tabbypurr wrote:
On Thursday, 10 January 2019 04:12:57 UTC, The Real Bev wrote:


The heads are metal. No worries about hardening. Who told you there
was oil in rubbing alcohol? It's alcohol and water. Period.


I forget the official standard for it, but it contains rather more than water & alcohol. Looked it up last year.


"Rubbing alcohol" is addressed by several different USP standards.

"Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol USP" is defined as 70% isopropyl alcohol
(plus or minus a couple of percent) by volume, the remainder
"water, with or without suitable stabilizers, perfume oils, and color
additives certified by the FDA for use in drugs." So, even drugstore
isopropyl alcohol can have components other than alcohol and water.

"Rubbing Alcohol USP" (without the word "isopropyl") is ethanol,
water, denaturants (e.g. sucrose octaacetate or denatonium benzoate),
"with or without color additives, and perfume oils."

Some commercial rubbing alcohol used to contain lanolin, to help keep
the skin from drying out; I don't know if any still does.

If you don't see the term "USP" on the label, then whatever you're
buying may not comply with the USP standards I mentioned.

Outside the US things are even more complex; British "surgical
spirit" is methylated spirit (ethanol denatured with methanol),
castor oil, diethyl phthalate, and methyl salicylate ("wintergreen
oil").

(Relevant information cribbed from the Wikipedia article on rubbing
alcohol, and the newdruginfo.com links which cite the USP
definitions).

For electronics cleaning purposes such as tape-deck heads, I prefer to
buy technical-grade isopropyl alcohol. My local Frys carries the
Puretronics brand ($9/quart).


We generally use BP & BSes rather than USP. So the answer depends to some extent on where the enquirer is.


NT
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On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 08:07:13 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Heads have some insulating material imbedded. Real rubbing alcohol is
supposed to have oil to prevent skin drying too much. Most don't. Isopropyl
or ethyl cleans heads.
Greg


Perhaps it would be interesting to see what's in a commercial tape
head cleaner?

GC Electronics Magnetic Head Cleaner
Kinda looks like alcohol (ethanol) is safe.
http://www.gcelectronics.com/order/msds/116.pdf
Ethanol 86.8%
Methanol 4.5%
Acetic Acid Ethyl Ester 1.1%
2-Pentanone, 4-Methyl- 1.0%
Solvent Naphtha 0.4%
(Petroleum), Light Aliph.
Hexane 0.4%
2-Propanol,2-Methyl- 0.11%
Benzene, Methy- 0.05%
Cyclohexane 0.001%
Other 5.7%

MG Chemicals 407c Audio/video head cleaner
https://www.mgchemicals.com/products/cleaning-products-for-electronics/cleaners/specialty-cleaners/audiovideo-head-cleaner-407c
It says "Safe on Plastics".
The composition is somewhat different from the GC head cleaner.
https://www.mgchemicals.com/downloads/msds/01%20English%20Can-USA%20SDS/sds-407c-l.pdf
67-63-0 propan-2-ol (IPA) 50%
107-83-5 methyl-2-pentane 15-25%
96-14-0 methyl-3-pentane 5-10%
79-29-8 dimethyl-2,3-butane 5-10%
75-83-2 dimethyl-2,2-butane 3-7%
110-54-3 n-hexane 1-2%

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150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
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On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 08:55:55 -0500, Pat
wrote:

I have a question. How can "static" be
a symptom of dirty tape heads? Drop outs - yes. Loss of highs - yes.
Static? Sounds more like a bad connection or static electricity being
generated somewhere.


There's quite a bit to be found using Google search on the topic:
https://www.google.com/search?q=tape+head+static+electricity
The motion of the mylar tape backing over the resin filled head tends
to build up a static charge on the tape. Metal reels and tape
cartridges will discharge most of this, but plastic reels and collect
static.

In high tech tape backup drives, such as LTO type drives, it is
possible for the static electricity to fry the heads.
https://www.streetdirectory.com/travel_guide/116367/data_recovery/sony_lto_tape_storage_media.html
"The working of the MR head is very much disturbed by
the static electricity, and the MR head can be destroyed
even by a minute static charge electricity."


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


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On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 08:07:13 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

Heads have some insulating material imbedded. Real rubbing alcohol is
supposed to have oil to prevent skin drying too much. Most don't. Isopropyl
or ethyl cleans heads.
Greg


Suffice it to say that using a substance for a purpose not mentioned on the containers label just isnt what you want. Go to a trusted computer or parts retailer and specifically ask for parts cleaner, €˜head cleaner .. etc. Because it beats re-inventing the wheel, being adventuresome, gambling, etc...
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On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 10:02:07 AM UTC-5, wrote:

Suffice it to say that using a substance for a purpose not mentioned on the containers label just isnt what you want. Go to a trusted computer or parts retailer and specifically ask for parts cleaner, €˜head cleaner .. etc. Because it beats re-inventing the wheel, being adventuresome, gambling, etc...


There is always that.

But: Windex (a trusted name-brand cleaner) is:

Ammonia
Isopropyl Alcohol
Blue Dye
Water

Not very much of the first three, either.

Most of those here are at least somewhat sophisticated in the use of search engines. Some of us even fix things on occasion. Point being that with a small amount of research and time, we may be capable of formulating perfectly adequate cleaning solutions that are also both safe and effective. Typically, when we do this successfully, the results are fine, the costs low, and environmental impacts minimized. All good. The only significant caution(s) would be to be absolutely sure we understand the ingredients involved.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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On Monday, 14 January 2019 15:02:07 UTC, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 08:07:13 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:


Suffice it to say that using a substance for a purpose not mentioned on the containers label just isnt what you want. Go to a trusted computer or parts retailer and specifically ask for parts cleaner, €˜head cleaner .. etc. Because it beats re-inventing the wheel, being adventuresome, gambling, etc...


You won't do very well in life with that attitude.


NT
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On Monday, 14 January 2019 16:51:05 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
On 1/14/19 10:03 AM, tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 14 January 2019 15:02:07 UTC, wrote:


Suffice it to say that using a substance for a purpose not
mentioned on the containers label just isnt what you want.
Go to a trusted computer or parts retailer and specifically
ask for parts cleaner, €˜head cleaner .. etc. Because it
beats re-inventing the wheel, being adventuresome, gambling,
etc...


You won't do very well in life with that attitude.

NT


Actually, I do quite well with that attitude.
I buy things that work.

That way I don't have to waste my time and money playing "Mr.
Wizard."


I've learnt something today. I wasn't aware that paying a tenth the price for a better & entirely customisable product was a form of wizardry. Nor that it wasted time or money.

Retail concoctions often work, but often not adequately IME. Really it never ceases to amaze me what people pay for mostly water.


NT
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What it comes down to is that there are not a lot of different cleaning materials out there. There are, however, very nearly infinite variations on a very, very few themes. Nothing is magical. And nothing is special in any meaningful way. There are companies that invest heavily in "proprietary" formula, some of which actually work well, and some of which do not. But every single one of them will start with what is most likely the same 20 or so basic materials. And nothing is secret. Do you really think that no other manufacturer has never dumped a drop of DeOxit into a gas chromatograph? Or a drop of Cramolin Red? Or any other solvent, chemical or material?

What is, more importantly, what is not in these magic formula is not magic. The Virgins that do the mixing only on Walpurgis Night are the stuff of legends, not fact-based. Nor do we have to be Mr. Wizard as we approach this. We need to understand some basic chemistry, understand the materials at hand and in use, and understand how any chemical reactions as may take place start, and more importantly, finish. Not a complicated process. We need to understand how chemical mix, what happens to the mix over time, and when applied, how they operate. Not a complicated process, either.

We have choices. Unlike Jeff, I am not in the fee-for-service aspect of the hobby. So, I do not have to warrant anything. Were I to, you bet that anything I used on my bench would be a supportable name-brand product designed for the use-at-hand. So, I may hand-mix a Cramolin-Red analog to my own needs. Or use some glacial ammonia to strip a really nasty part down to its bones. To me, the alternative is landfill - so "kill-or-cure" is not an idle statement.

But I do know my chemistry - at least as it applies to "heads" of various natures.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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On Mon, 14 Jan 2019 10:10:38 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On Mon, 14 Jan 2019 07:02:04 -0800 (PST), wrote:

3. Everyone reads the label only after the product has been consumed.

Another way to find out what's in a product it to read its Materials Data
Sheet (MSDS) - any substance that's transported before being sold or used
will have one because its often a condition of transport contracts that
it has one. Here's a good starting point:
https://www.msdsonline.com/

https://hazard.com/msds/index.php
https://www.msdsonline.com/

.... but unfortunately the first of these is somewhat flaky - quite
possibly related to the US Governmental shutdown, since its been good in
the past.


--
Martin | martin at
Gregorie | gregorie dot org
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On Mon, 14 Jan 2019 11:38:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I've learnt something today. I wasn't aware that paying a tenth
the price for a better & entirely customisable product was a
form of wizardry. Nor that it wasted time or money.


I have a book "Fortunes in Formula" (1939). 853 pages and 10,000
formulas. It has just about everything one might want from cleaning
formulas to medical concoctions. It has served me well over the
years. Unfortunately, it uses the "common" names for chemicals. For
example:
aqua fortis = nitric acid
horn silver = sliver chloride
oil of vitriol = sulphuric acid
sugar of lead = lead acetate
verdigris = copper acetate
The medical preparation section uses the Latin names for everything.
Decoding the formulas does require an extra step in translation, but
is survivable.

A recent example of home chemistry is my annual problem with moss
growing on my wood outside stairs. The moss turns to slime when the
light and temperature is right, making my stairs rather hazardous.
I've been using the overpriced commercial preparation, which works,
but not very well. This year, I decided to try something from the
book, which turned out to be a vinegar, washing soda, salt, and water
preparation. It didn't work well in my sprayer, but it worked much
better than anything else I've dried with a scrub brush and garden
hose. My guess is I saved about $40 by essentially replacing the
commercial preparation with hardware store vinegar.

Retail concoctions often work, but often not adequately IME.


Yep. I've had the same experience.

Really it never ceases to amaze me what people pay for mostly water.


When I was young, stupid, and impoverished, I did some work for a
neighbor helping him prepare a laundry product in his garage. The
work was boring, but the owner had me fascinated with his stories
about his WWII TNT factory. The laundry ingredients were initially
fairly common and easily mixed. Yes, it was mostly water. However,
there were obscure additives that were quite necessary, usually to
solve uncommon or odd problems. The customers were getting mostly
water, but the common ingredients and obscure additives were what they
really were buying. The product eventually became a commercial
success and was sold to a large conglomerate.

--
Jeff Liebermann

150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


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On 1/14/19 3:50 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Yes, it was mostly water. However, there were obscure additives
that were quite necessary, usually to solve uncommon or odd
problems. The customers were getting mostly water, but the
common ingredients and obscure additives were what they really
were buying.


Exactly. I am more than happy to pay for stuff that works instead
of mucking about trying to "make my own."

Two things of note, brake fluid really does stop weeds in your
driveway cracks, and lamp oil (paraffin oil) is considerably
cheaper than Saddle Soap.

I did learn how to make Prussic Acid, but that's pretty iffy.
I'd rather my enemies drop dead from natural causes or through
their own misfortune.



--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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Default using acetone to clean audio cassette heads

On Monday, 14 January 2019 23:05:12 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
On 1/14/19 3:50 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:


Yes, it was mostly water. However, there were obscure additives
that were quite necessary, usually to solve uncommon or odd
problems. The customers were getting mostly water, but the
common ingredients and obscure additives were what they really
were buying.


Exactly. I am more than happy to pay for stuff that works instead
of mucking about trying to "make my own."


I have more success with my own formulations than retail preparations, mostly at far less cost. I don't see any upside to going retail. I'll use them when they're good, eg washing powder, but many things it's easy to do better. Retail descalers are especially time & money wasting.


NT
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Default using acetone to clean audio cassette heads

On Monday, January 14, 2019 at 11:03:39 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, 14 January 2019 15:02:07 UTC, wrote:
On Thu, 10 Jan 2019 08:07:13 -0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:


Suffice it to say that using a substance for a purpose not mentioned on the containers label just isnt what you want. Go to a trusted computer or parts retailer and specifically ask for parts cleaner, €˜head cleaner .. etc. Because it beats re-inventing the wheel, being adventuresome, gambling, etc...


You won't do very well in life with that attitude.


I humbly disagree.
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