There are some sellers on ebay who are selling assorted resistors in
quantity. Some of them claim these assortments contain 0 ohm
resistors.... WTF. Wouldn't that be a piece of wire?

What would be the point of that?

How would you even color code it?

On 3/9/2017 6:30 PM, wrote:
There are some sellers on ebay who are selling assorted resistors in
quantity. Some of them claim these assortments contain 0 ohm
resistors.... WTF. Wouldn't that be a piece of wire?

What would be the point of that?

How would you even color code it?

used as jumpers when you don't have enough pcb layers.

Also designed for component insertion machines which can't really handle bare wire.

Dan

wrote:

Also designed for component insertion machines which can't really
handle bare wire.

Can be used as "ID" links to enable/disable features on different runs
of a board.

On Thu, 9 Mar 2017 19:04:45 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Also designed for component insertion machines which can't really handle bare wire.

Dan

So these things really *DO* exist???
I thought it was either a typo, or the webpage was made up by someone
who was clueless about electronics.

That seerms pretty goofy, but I do imagine some machines cant handle the
bare wires.....

I'm guessing they are just a piece of solid wire with a "shell" around
it.

Now, assuming they use a color code on them, what would it be?
I thought it would be Black - Black - Black, but that is actually ONE
OHM. (I always have a hard time comprehending that one).

So I cant imagine how to color code ZERO Ohms...

They ca over pass a track without needing 2 vias.

a écrit :
There are some sellers on ebay who are selling assorted resistors in
quantity. Some of them claim these assortments contain 0 ohm
resistors.... WTF. Wouldn't that be a piece of wire?

What would be the point of that?

How would you even color code it?

On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 1:20:22 AM UTC-8, wrote:

[about zero-ohm resistors]

Now, assuming they use a color code on them, what would it be?
I thought it would be Black - Black - Black, but that is actually ONE
OHM. (I always have a hard time comprehending that one).

So I cant imagine how to color code ZERO Ohms...

One black band around the middle is a common marking.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/yageo/ZOR-25-R-52-0R/0.0QTR-ND/18795

Please note that there are SMD versions of these as well. They will be marked with a single zero(0).

You will often see these used to jump a trace in SMD applications.

Dan

In article ,
says...

There are some sellers on ebay who are selling assorted resistors in
quantity. Some of them claim these assortments contain 0 ohm
resistors.... WTF. Wouldn't that be a piece of wire?

What would be the point of that?

How would you even color code it?

Perhaps someone is sneaking "high temperature" (meaning ambient)
superconductors onto the market with no fanfare?

Mike.

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 03:19:06 -0600, wrote:

I thought it would be Black - Black - Black, but that is actually ONE
OHM.

One ohm is brown, black, gold.

Zero ohm should be black, black, any.
--
RoRo

In article ,
says...

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 03:19:06 -0600, wrote:

I thought it would be Black - Black - Black, but that is actually ONE
OHM.

One ohm is brown, black, gold.

Zero ohm should be black, black, any.

Are you saying that approximately zero is good enough?

Mike.

wrote:
Please note that there are SMD versions of these as well. They will be marked with a single zero(0).


I have seen thee or four zeros, depending on the tolerance. They
were 5% and 1%. We used them on circuit boards when a pad wasn't needed.


I see that they now sell 0.05% as well:


http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/SMD-Resistors-Chip-Resistors/_/N-7h7yu?P=1z0x6qj


You will often see these used to jump a trace in SMD applications.

Dan



--
Never **** off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 21:11:57 -0000, MJC
wrote:

One ohm is brown, black, gold.

Zero ohm should be black, black, any.

Are you saying that approximately zero is good enough?

I'm not sure I understand your question, but the third band is the
multiplier, and since the two first bands are zero, you can multiply
with anything you like. So, black, black, white would still be zero.

Now that I think about it, one ohm could also be black, brown, black.
--
RoRo

In article ,
says...

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 21:11:57 -0000, MJC
wrote:

One ohm is brown, black, gold.

Zero ohm should be black, black, any.

Are you saying that approximately zero is good enough?

I'm not sure I understand your question, but the third band is the
multiplier, and since the two first bands are zero, you can multiply
with anything you like. So, black, black, white would still be zero.

Now that I think about it, one ohm could also be black, brown, black.

Yes, see the point; I went off half-cock (approx) thinking the "any" was
tolerance. I suppose a minus power of ten multiplier would be good, too
(I forget the colours)...

Mike.

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 21:06:58 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

wrote:
Please note that there are SMD versions of these as well. They will be marked with a single zero(0).


I have seen thee or four zeros, depending on the tolerance. They
were 5% and 1%. We used them on circuit boards when a pad wasn't needed.


I see that they now sell 0.05% as well:


Are you ****ting me.....
How can there be a tolerance for ZERO Ohms?
Zero IS Zero....

That's just plain silly.... LOL

Speaking of silly, next time you see someone wiring a light fixture or
lamp, ask them what the tolerance is for the wire they are using....
[Sometimes its fun screwing with people's heads].



http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/SMD-Resistors-Chip-Resistors/_/N-7h7yu?P=1z0x6qj


You will often see these used to jump a trace in SMD applications.

Dan


Here we go with those initials "SMD" again. I keep seeing that in posts
on here and elsewhere. So I better ask...
What the heck does SMD mean?

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 19:57:24 +0100, Robert Roland
wrote:

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 03:19:06 -0600, wrote:

I thought it would be Black - Black - Black, but that is actually ONE
OHM.

One ohm is brown, black, gold.

Zero ohm should be black, black, any.

According to this chart (and others like it), One Ohm is black -black -
black...

http://www.digikey.com/-/media/Image...4-8d78dacd29ff

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017 12:40:16 -0000, MJC wrote:

In article ,
says...

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 21:11:57 -0000, MJC
wrote:

One ohm is brown, black, gold.

Zero ohm should be black, black, any.

Are you saying that approximately zero is good enough?

I'm not sure I understand your question, but the third band is the
multiplier, and since the two first bands are zero, you can multiply
with anything you like. So, black, black, white would still be zero.

Now that I think about it, one ohm could also be black, brown, black.

Yes, see the point; I went off half-cock (approx) thinking the "any" was
tolerance. I suppose a minus power of ten multiplier would be good, too
(I forget the colours)...

Mike.

And here it's Brown - Black - Gold.
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronic...-resistors.php

Seems like this is a common misconception....

On Saturday, March 11, 2017 at 2:13:18 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 21:06:58 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

wrote:
Please note that there are SMD versions of these as well. They will be marked with a single zero(0).


I have seen thee or four zeros, depending on the tolerance. They
were 5% and 1%. We used them on circuit boards when a pad wasn't needed.


I see that they now sell 0.05% as well:


Are you ****ting me.....
How can there be a tolerance for ZERO Ohms?
Zero IS Zero....

That's just plain silly.... LOL

Speaking of silly, next time you see someone wiring a light fixture or
lamp, ask them what the tolerance is for the wire they are using....
[Sometimes its fun screwing with people's heads].



http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/SMD-Resistors-Chip-Resistors/_/N-7h7yu?P=1z0x6qj


You will often see these used to jump a trace in SMD applications.

Dan


Here we go with those initials "SMD" again. I keep seeing that in posts
on here and elsewhere. So I better ask...
What the heck does SMD mean?

Sorry about not including the definition:

Surface Mounted Device

Dan

In article ,
says...

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 19:57:24 +0100, Robert Roland
wrote:

On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 03:19:06 -0600, wrote:

I thought it would be Black - Black - Black, but that is actually ONE
OHM.

One ohm is brown, black, gold.

Zero ohm should be black, black, any.

According to this chart (and others like it), One Ohm is black -black -
black...

http://www.digikey.com/-/media/Image...4-8d78dacd29ff

I believe you are reading that chart wrong.

I have some resistors and checked them out. One is a brown black gold
and is 1 ohm. Another is brown black silver and is .1 ohms. That is
measured with a Fluke 87 VOM.

I don't know for sure, but maybe the resistors do not start off with a
black band. Don't have any loose resistors to check, but many on
circuit boards are a solid color with a black band in the middle.

In article ,
says...


Here we go with those initials "SMD" again. I keep seeing that in posts
on here and elsewhere. So I better ask...
What the heck does SMD mean?

SMD is surface mounted device. For resistors and capacitors they are
usually small and flat. They are usually silver colored on the ends.
That is there you solder them to the circuit board. The ICs will often
have what seems like very short leads. They lay flat on the circuit
board also.

Check out this youtube video as to what they are and ways to work with
them. For very much work it helps to have a good 10 to 20 power
stereo microscope.

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017 13:13:56 -0600, wrote:

According to this chart (and others like it), One Ohm is black -black -
black...

No, that is not correct. Notice that the fourth band says
"multiplier".

The chart shows four bands plus tolerance, which means three digits
plus a multiplier, plus tolerance.

You multiply the first three bands with the multiplier value. Since
the three first bands in your example are all zero, you must multiply
zero by one ohm, which is still zero.

An easy way to remember how the multiplier band works, is to think of
it as "number of zeroes".
--
RoRo

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017 16:15:51 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...


Here we go with those initials "SMD" again. I keep seeing that in posts
on here and elsewhere. So I better ask...
What the heck does SMD mean?

SMD is surface mounted device. For resistors and capacitors they are
usually small and flat. They are usually silver colored on the ends.
That is there you solder them to the circuit board. The ICs will often
have what seems like very short leads. They lay flat on the circuit
board also.

Check out this youtube video as to what they are and ways to work with
them. For very much work it helps to have a good 10 to 20 power
stereo microscope.



Now that I know what the initials mean, I know what these are. I have
seen them. As far as I'm concerned, they are the devices which cant not
be repaired, unless the whole boards are replaced. Yes, i am sure they
can be repaired, but it wont be me working on them. Poor eyesite is just
part of the reason. Thats why I prefer the old tube stuff to work on, or
at least the early transistorized stuff on single layer boards, which
contain parts that can be touched without using a tweezers....

For me, IC chips and SMDs took the fun out of electronics as a hobby...
(Not that they are bad, but they are not for the home workshop, they are
made for robots in factories that create them, and people who have very
expensive test gear to trace them). I still recall trying to unsolder
some IC chips, and ruining them every time. Then spending days or weeks
trying to locate replacement parts, because they are factory numbers
that cant just simply be purchased.

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017 16:02:12 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

I believe you are reading that chart wrong.

I have some resistors and checked them out. One is a brown black gold
and is 1 ohm. Another is brown black silver and is .1 ohms. That is
measured with a Fluke 87 VOM.

I don't know for sure, but maybe the resistors do not start off with a
black band. Don't have any loose resistors to check, but many on
circuit boards are a solid color with a black band in the middle.

I bookmarked this site:
http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronic...-resistors.php

Not only does it calculate the resistor color code, but it even shows a
picture. That's a site worth saving....

I never had any problem with the color codes in the old days, because I
dont recall ever running into any resistors less than 10 ohms on the old
tube gear. It's just these small value ones that are tricky.

In article ,
says...

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017 13:13:56 -0600, wrote:

According to this chart (and others like it), One Ohm is black -black -
black...

No, that is not correct. Notice that the fourth band says
"multiplier".

The chart shows four bands plus tolerance, which means three digits
plus a multiplier, plus tolerance.

You multiply the first three bands with the multiplier value. Since
the three first bands in your example are all zero, you must multiply
zero by one ohm, which is still zero.

An easy way to remember how the multiplier band works, is to think of
it as "number of zeroes".

While it does say multiplier, it is not the traditional 'multiply any
number by zero and you get zero. It is more like the number of zeros to
put at the end. That is why a red red black is 22 ohms and not zero
ohms.

In article ,
says...



Now that I know what the initials mean, I know what these are. I have
seen them. As far as I'm concerned, they are the devices which cant not
be repaired, unless the whole boards are replaced. Yes, i am sure they
can be repaired, but it wont be me working on them. Poor eyesite is just
part of the reason. Thats why I prefer the old tube stuff to work on, or
at least the early transistorized stuff on single layer boards, which
contain parts that can be touched without using a tweezers....

For me, IC chips and SMDs took the fun out of electronics as a hobby...
(Not that they are bad, but they are not for the home workshop, they are
made for robots in factories that create them, and people who have very
expensive test gear to trace them). I still recall trying to unsolder
some IC chips, and ruining them every time. Then spending days or weeks
trying to locate replacement parts, because they are factory numbers
that cant just simply be purchased.


I am 67 and just started working with the SMD about 2 years ago. If
your hands do not shake too much it is easy if you have the right tools.
For the hobby people like me that does not want to spend too much, it
takes about 300 to 350 to really get the right equipment. A good
microscope can be bought for about $ 190. A hot air and small soldering
iron combination is about $ 60. Then a few tweezers, very fine
solder,liquid solder, liquid flux and some kapton tape round up most of
the other items you need. Get some old computer boards and practice for
several days and it will be easy. Be sure to look on youtube for some
videos to see how the pros do it. They make it look very easy.


One easy way to replace the ICs is to cut the legs from the plastic case
and remove them a pin at a time. Don't try to save them.

The odd ball factory numbers are something else. There should be some
kind of rule they can not use house numbered parts unless it is
especially made for that piece of equipment and not used by anyother
company.
Some companies even sanded off all the numbers on the parts.

In article ,
says...



I never had any problem with the color codes in the old days, because I
dont recall ever running into any resistors less than 10 ohms on the old
tube gear. It's just these small value ones that are tricky.

For the standard resistors it was almost second nature for me to just
look at a resistor and call out the value. There were only a few values
used most of the time, and then the last band for the multiplier.
Especially when most were the 10 % type.

On Saturday, March 11, 2017 at 8:34:48 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...



Now that I know what the initials mean, I know what these are. I have
seen them. As far as I'm concerned, they are the devices which cant not
be repaired, unless the whole boards are replaced. Yes, i am sure they
can be repaired, but it wont be me working on them. Poor eyesite is just
part of the reason. Thats why I prefer the old tube stuff to work on, or
at least the early transistorized stuff on single layer boards, which
contain parts that can be touched without using a tweezers....

For me, IC chips and SMDs took the fun out of electronics as a hobby...
(Not that they are bad, but they are not for the home workshop, they are
made for robots in factories that create them, and people who have very
expensive test gear to trace them). I still recall trying to unsolder
some IC chips, and ruining them every time. Then spending days or weeks
trying to locate replacement parts, because they are factory numbers
that cant just simply be purchased.


I am 67 and just started working with the SMD about 2 years ago. If
your hands do not shake too much it is easy if you have the right tools.
For the hobby people like me that does not want to spend too much, it
takes about 300 to 350 to really get the right equipment. A good
microscope can be bought for about $ 190. A hot air and small soldering
iron combination is about $ 60. Then a few tweezers, very fine
solder,liquid solder, liquid flux and some kapton tape round up most of
the other items you need. Get some old computer boards and practice for
several days and it will be easy. Be sure to look on youtube for some
videos to see how the pros do it. They make it look very easy.


One easy way to replace the ICs is to cut the legs from the plastic case
and remove them a pin at a time. Don't try to save them.

The odd ball factory numbers are something else. There should be some
kind of rule they can not use house numbered parts unless it is
especially made for that piece of equipment and not used by anyother
company.
Some companies even sanded off all the numbers on the parts.

Probably getting a bit off topic, but when removing SMD parts, I use ChipQuik. Check it out, it works great and the removed part can be used again if it is not the problem.

Dan

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article ,
says...



I never had any problem with the color codes in the old days, because I
dont recall ever running into any resistors less than 10 ohms on the old
tube gear. It's just these small value ones that are tricky.

For the standard resistors it was almost second nature for me to just
look at a resistor and call out the value. There were only a few values
used most of the time, and then the last band for the multiplier.
Especially when most were the 10 % type.

Yes, after a while, you aren't so much "decoding" but just recognize the
value connected to the coding. Three red stripes? Of course that's 2200.
I can't even tell you what 4.7K is, but I'd know one when I saw it.

SO much effort put into mnemonics to remember the color code and cardboard
decoder rings, when all you have to do is spend some time looking at
resistors, like when you are sorting them out.

Michael

In article t,
says...

While it does say multiplier, it is not the traditional 'multiply any
number by zero and you get zero. It is more like the number of zeros to
put at the end. That is why a red red black is 22 ohms and not zero
ohms.

The multiplier is ten to the power of the colour. Any number to the
power of zero is one. Hence the result you cite.

Mike.

In article le.org,
says...

SO much effort put into mnemonics to remember the color code and
cardboard
decoder rings, when all you have to do is spend some time looking at
resistors, like when you are sorting them out.

After I had spent a while scrabbling through my Dad's random collection
of resistors looking for an acceptable value, I got a strong urge to
pick out any one and re-paint the colours...

Mike.

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017 20:34:47 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...



Now that I know what the initials mean, I know what these are. I have
seen them. As far as I'm concerned, they are the devices which cant not
be repaired, unless the whole boards are replaced. Yes, i am sure they
can be repaired, but it wont be me working on them. Poor eyesite is just
part of the reason. Thats why I prefer the old tube stuff to work on, or
at least the early transistorized stuff on single layer boards, which
contain parts that can be touched without using a tweezers....

For me, IC chips and SMDs took the fun out of electronics as a hobby...
(Not that they are bad, but they are not for the home workshop, they are
made for robots in factories that create them, and people who have very
expensive test gear to trace them). I still recall trying to unsolder
some IC chips, and ruining them every time. Then spending days or weeks
trying to locate replacement parts, because they are factory numbers
that cant just simply be purchased.


I am 67 and just started working with the SMD about 2 years ago. If
your hands do not shake too much it is easy if you have the right tools.
For the hobby people like me that does not want to spend too much, it
takes about 300 to 350 to really get the right equipment. A good
microscope can be bought for about $ 190. A hot air and small soldering
iron combination is about $ 60. Then a few tweezers, very fine
solder,liquid solder, liquid flux and some kapton tape round up most of
the other items you need. Get some old computer boards and practice for
several days and it will be easy. Be sure to look on youtube for some
videos to see how the pros do it. They make it look very easy.


One easy way to replace the ICs is to cut the legs from the plastic case
and remove them a pin at a time. Don't try to save them.

The odd ball factory numbers are something else. There should be some
kind of rule they can not use house numbered parts unless it is
especially made for that piece of equipment and not used by anyother
company.
Some companies even sanded off all the numbers on the parts.

The old tube stuff was made to be repaired. You'd unplug a tube and
stick it in a tester. If it was not the tubes, you'd begin checking the
passive parts.

With ICs, you cant unplug them or test them. They DO make sockets for
them, but they are never used on consumer products, and if they could be
unplugged, there are no testers, at least not a general purpose tester
for all ICs. I suppose companies have testers for specific ICs that they
use. Cutting the leads on the ICs is a good idea if you know they need
to be replaced, but much of the time you want to remove them to test
them (as best as possible) out of the circuit.

At least single transistors could be unsoldered and tested. When I used
them for some projects that I built, I always put them in sockets.

Things just are not made to be repaired these days. And like you said,
the part numbers are often "house numbers", which makes it impossible to
fix the stuff. I guess thats why computers are made wih boards that are
just unplugged and replaced. The boards themselves are the components,
but often times the boards cost more than the whole device.

On Sat, 11 Mar 2017 20:37:27 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote:

In article ,
says...



I never had any problem with the color codes in the old days, because I
dont recall ever running into any resistors less than 10 ohms on the old
tube gear. It's just these small value ones that are tricky.

For the standard resistors it was almost second nature for me to just
look at a resistor and call out the value. There were only a few values
used most of the time, and then the last band for the multiplier.
Especially when most were the 10 % type.



It's been nearly 40 years since I did any serious work on electronics.
But I still remembered the color codes, many of the common resistor
sizes, common cap sizes, and the numbers on the most used tubes. I dont
think I ever used a resistor below 10 ohms, except the wirewound types,
such as the old huge 8 ohm WW ones that I used to use for speaker loads.
I think they were rated at 100 watts. I saved a lot of that stuff, but
much of it has vanished over the years.

On 10/03/2017 13:30, wrote:
There are some sellers on ebay who are selling assorted resistors in
quantity. Some of them claim these assortments contain 0 ohm
resistors.... WTF. Wouldn't that be a piece of wire?

What would be the point of that?

How would you even color code it?


The really funny thing is you can buy them in 1% and 5% tolerance. I'm
betting that none of them are within tolerance though.

In article ,
says...

At least single transistors could be unsoldered and tested. When I
used them for some projects that I built, I always put them in
sockets.

There's also the problem that at the speeds stuff works at these days,
the extra spacing is electrically significant.

I remember playing with a tunnel diode in the 1960s when they were
commercially available and they were quite difficult to stop
oscillating!

Mike.

On Sun, 12 Mar 2017, MJC wrote:

In article ,
says...

At least single transistors could be unsoldered and tested. When I
used them for some projects that I built, I always put them in
sockets.

There's also the problem that at the speeds stuff works at these days,
the extra spacing is electrically significant.

I remember playing with a tunnel diode in the 1960s when they were
commercially available and they were quite difficult to stop
oscillating!

I think that accounts for why in hobby circles, their attraction was
mostly as an oscillator. "WIreless mics", QRP transmitters on the amateur
six metre band, oscillator/mixer in various receiver circuits. Offhand, I
can't remember much of their use as amplifiers in hobby circles.

Michael

1% sur 0 ohms !!! Je ne vois pas

Chris Jones a écrit :
On 10/03/2017 13:30, wrote:
There are some sellers on ebay who are selling assorted resistors in
quantity. Some of them claim these assortments contain 0 ohm
resistors.... WTF. Wouldn't that be a piece of wire?

What would be the point of that?

How would you even color code it?


The really funny thing is you can buy them in 1% and 5% tolerance. I'm
betting that none of them are within tolerance though.

Bien vu !!

La tolérance en % idem, mais 0 si 0 ohms


MJC a écrit :
In article t,
says...

While it does say multiplier, it is not the traditional 'multiply any
number by zero and you get zero. It is more like the number of zeros to
put at the end. That is why a red red black is 22 ohms and not zero
ohms.

The multiplier is ten to the power of the colour. Any number to the
power of zero is one. Hence the result you cite.

Mike.

wrote:

Now that I know what the initials mean, I know what these are. I have
seen them. As far as I'm concerned, they are the devices which can't not be repaired, unless the whole boards are replaced. Yes, I am sure they can be repaired, but it wont be me working on them. Poor
eyesight is just part of the reason. That's why I prefer the old tube stuff to work on, or at least the early transistorized stuff on single
layer boards, which contain parts that can be touched without using a
tweezers....

For me, IC chips and SMDs took the fun out of electronics as a
hobby... (Not that they are bad, but they are not for the home
workshop, they are made for robots in factories that create them, and
people who have very expensive test gear to trace them). I still
recall trying to unsolder some IC chips, and ruining them every time.
Then spending days or weeks trying to locate replacement parts,
because they are factory numbers that can't just simply be purchased.


SMD is easier to work with than old point to point wired chassis. I
am in my mid 60s, and I have had poor eyesight all my life. I worked
with SMD boards daily at Microdyne. I now have a nice B&L Stereozoom 4
boom microscope for my projects now that I'm retired. I purchased an
adapter to be able to record video from the microscope, so that I can
post video of the techniques I use.

You need the right tools and some practice to work with the small
parts. I routinely removed and replaced 288 pin ICs without damaging the
PCB or to IC.

ASIC (Application Specific Integrated Circuits) are what you
referred to as "can't just simply be purchased". They only make sense
for products built by the millions, or for unlimited budget high end
industrial electronics.

A lot of what you think are unavailable is because you don't know
actual part numbers, VS what they have room to mare a component with.


--
Never **** off an Engineer!

They don't get mad.

They don't get even.

They go for over unity! ;-)

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Please note that there are SMD versions of these as well. They will be
marked with a single zero(0).

You will often see these used to jump a trace in SMD applications.

They occasionally double as test points on SMD boards.

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On Saturday, March 11, 2017 at 8:34:48 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article ,
says...



Now that I know what the initials mean, I know what these are. I have
seen them. As far as I'm concerned, they are the devices which cant not
be repaired, unless the whole boards are replaced. Yes, i am sure they
can be repaired, but it wont be me working on them. Poor eyesite is
just
part of the reason. Thats why I prefer the old tube stuff to work on,
or
at least the early transistorized stuff on single layer boards, which
contain parts that can be touched without using a tweezers....

For me, IC chips and SMDs took the fun out of electronics as a hobby...
(Not that they are bad, but they are not for the home workshop, they
are
made for robots in factories that create them, and people who have very
expensive test gear to trace them). I still recall trying to unsolder
some IC chips, and ruining them every time. Then spending days or weeks
trying to locate replacement parts, because they are factory numbers
that cant just simply be purchased.


I am 67 and just started working with the SMD about 2 years ago. If
your hands do not shake too much it is easy if you have the right tools.
For the hobby people like me that does not want to spend too much, it
takes about 300 to 350 to really get the right equipment. A good
microscope can be bought for about $ 190. A hot air and small soldering
iron combination is about $ 60. Then a few tweezers, very fine
solder,liquid solder, liquid flux and some kapton tape round up most of
the other items you need. Get some old computer boards and practice for
several days and it will be easy. Be sure to look on youtube for some
videos to see how the pros do it. They make it look very easy.


One easy way to replace the ICs is to cut the legs from the plastic case
and remove them a pin at a time. Don't try to save them.

The odd ball factory numbers are something else. There should be some
kind of rule they can not use house numbered parts unless it is
especially made for that piece of equipment and not used by anyother
company.
Some companies even sanded off all the numbers on the parts.

Probably getting a bit off topic, but when removing SMD parts, I use
ChipQuik. Check it out, it works great and the removed part can be used
again if it is not the problem.

I use a modeller's pencil blowtorch to heat the bare side of the board -
when any SMD part moves; I tap the edge of the board on the bench and a
whole pile of parts just fall off.