Does the "starter" continue to function once the lamp is going, or does it
"drop out"? Just wondering. I fixed my MIL's light by replacing the
defective coil being driven by the SIDAC NTE6419, but wife is worried that
I'm going to burn her mom's house down. I put a larger coil in, and it is
brighter than it was, so she is worried that it will overheat and catch
fire. I tell her not to worry cause if it overheats the SIDAC will fail,
shutting the whole system down. But if the "starter" (labeled "ignitor")
only comes on for a few seconds to get the lamp going, that would be better
than ever.

Thanks for any feedback,

Dave

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:22:52 -0600, "Dave" wrote:

Does the "starter" continue to function once the lamp is going, or does it
"drop out"? Just wondering. I fixed my MIL's light by replacing the
defective coil being driven by the SIDAC NTE6419, but wife is worried that
I'm going to burn her mom's house down. I put a larger coil in, and it is
brighter than it was, so she is worried that it will overheat and catch
fire. I tell her not to worry cause if it overheats the SIDAC will fail,
shutting the whole system down. But if the "starter" (labeled "ignitor")
only comes on for a few seconds to get the lamp going, that would be better
than ever.

Thanks for any feedback,

Dave



In the diagram at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp, near
the middle of the web page, please point out the 'starter' or
'igniter'? Most HPS lamps have just a ballast and the lamp bulb, at
least the ones I see.

Personally I'd strongly recommend not replacing the balast with
anything other than the properly designed balast, matched to the bulb.
Since you have made this change, I'd agree with your wife: the lamp is
likely unsafe and probalby should not be used.

And replacing the ballast with a different one has what to do with the
(mythical) starter? That leaves me confused...

PeterD writes:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:22:52 -0600, "Dave" wrote:

Does the "starter" continue to function once the lamp is going, or does it
"drop out"? Just wondering. I fixed my MIL's light by replacing the
defective coil being driven by the SIDAC NTE6419, but wife is worried that
I'm going to burn her mom's house down. I put a larger coil in, and it is
brighter than it was, so she is worried that it will overheat and catch
fire. I tell her not to worry cause if it overheats the SIDAC will fail,
shutting the whole system down. But if the "starter" (labeled "ignitor")
only comes on for a few seconds to get the lamp going, that would be better
than ever.

Thanks for any feedback,

Dave

In the diagram at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp, near
the middle of the web page, please point out the 'starter' or
'igniter'? Most HPS lamps have just a ballast and the lamp bulb, at
least the ones I see.

Personally I'd strongly recommend not replacing the balast with
anything other than the properly designed balast, matched to the bulb.
Since you have made this change, I'd agree with your wife: the lamp is
likely unsafe and probalby should not be used.

And replacing the ballast with a different one has what to do with the
(mythical) starter? That leaves me confused...

Agreed.

And especially, no modification should be allowed that increases the
brightness of the lamp unless the lamp is confirmed to be operating at the
spec'd current. Presumably in this case, it there was some other
problem resulting in reduced current. Brighter lamp - higher temperature,
which can result in a quick failure, hopefully not very explosively.

If there is no external igniter circuit, there may be one built into
the lamp.

Don't believe everything you read in Wikipedia.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
PeterD writes:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:22:52 -0600, "Dave" wrote:

Does the "starter" continue to function once the lamp is going, or does
it
"drop out"? Just wondering. I fixed my MIL's light by replacing the
defective coil being driven by the SIDAC NTE6419, but wife is worried
that
I'm going to burn her mom's house down. I put a larger coil in, and it
is
brighter than it was, so she is worried that it will overheat and catch
fire. I tell her not to worry cause if it overheats the SIDAC will
fail,
shutting the whole system down. But if the "starter" (labeled
"ignitor")
only comes on for a few seconds to get the lamp going, that would be
better
than ever.

Thanks for any feedback,

Dave

In the diagram at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp, near
the middle of the web page, please point out the 'starter' or
'igniter'? Most HPS lamps have just a ballast and the lamp bulb, at
least the ones I see.

Personally I'd strongly recommend not replacing the balast with
anything other than the properly designed balast, matched to the bulb.
Since you have made this change, I'd agree with your wife: the lamp is
likely unsafe and probalby should not be used.

And replacing the ballast with a different one has what to do with the
(mythical) starter? That leaves me confused...

Agreed.

And especially, no modification should be allowed that increases the
brightness of the lamp unless the lamp is confirmed to be operating at the
spec'd current. Presumably in this case, it there was some other
problem resulting in reduced current. Brighter lamp - higher
temperature,
which can result in a quick failure, hopefully not very explosively.

If there is no external igniter circuit, there may be one built into
the lamp.

Don't believe everything you read in Wikipedia.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html



Hey all,

Thank you very much for the input, first of all. Secondly, I posted a JPEG
of the starter (labeled "ignitor" on the cannister which holds the PCB and
ciruit I am about to referrence) to ABSE on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM. There
pictured is the (failing) blue choke I replaced with a larger choke. The
one I took out *looked* like it might be a 60 or 75 uH choke, and I put
first a 100 uH choke in its place, and finally a 130 uH that would just
barely fit into the (plastic) cannister. In testing, the choke did not seem
to generate any heat, and my logic was as follows: if it did cause the
starter (ignitor) to overheat it would bring about the demise of the NTE2419
SIDAC bi-directional thyristor diode immediately to it's side (on the right
in the JPEG) thereby shutting down the circuit. Below the PCB (in the JPEG)
is the ballast, which I did nothing with. Since I was replacing a passive
component with a passive component, I wasn't too worried. Burn-in did not
raise any suspicions (1/4 hour of operation in my workshop). I would send
more photos (and try again to figure out this damn camera) but the light is
currently in use. The experimenting I did with the light only seemed to
show that a lower inductance choke resulted in a more "yellow" illumination,
and a higher inductance gave a "whiter" light. I can bring it down if there
is truly cause for concern, just hate to do so unnecessarilly. And there is
nothing in the diagram referrenced above like the small circuit I was
working on inside the cover of the lamp. Don't know what to think about
that...

Thanks,

Dave

"Dave" wrote in message
ca...

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
PeterD writes:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:22:52 -0600, "Dave" wrote:

Does the "starter" continue to function once the lamp is going, or does
it
"drop out"? Just wondering. I fixed my MIL's light by replacing the
defective coil being driven by the SIDAC NTE6419, but wife is worried
that
I'm going to burn her mom's house down. I put a larger coil in, and it
is
brighter than it was, so she is worried that it will overheat and catch
fire. I tell her not to worry cause if it overheats the SIDAC will
fail,
shutting the whole system down. But if the "starter" (labeled
"ignitor")
only comes on for a few seconds to get the lamp going, that would be
better
than ever.

Thanks for any feedback,

Dave

In the diagram at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp, near
the middle of the web page, please point out the 'starter' or
'igniter'? Most HPS lamps have just a ballast and the lamp bulb, at
least the ones I see.

Personally I'd strongly recommend not replacing the balast with
anything other than the properly designed balast, matched to the bulb.
Since you have made this change, I'd agree with your wife: the lamp is
likely unsafe and probalby should not be used.

And replacing the ballast with a different one has what to do with the
(mythical) starter? That leaves me confused...

Agreed.

And especially, no modification should be allowed that increases the
brightness of the lamp unless the lamp is confirmed to be operating at
the
spec'd current. Presumably in this case, it there was some other
problem resulting in reduced current. Brighter lamp - higher
temperature,
which can result in a quick failure, hopefully not very explosively.

If there is no external igniter circuit, there may be one built into
the lamp.

Don't believe everything you read in Wikipedia.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html



Hey all,

Thank you very much for the input, first of all. Secondly, I posted a
JPEG of the starter (labeled "ignitor" on the cannister which holds the
PCB and ciruit I am about to referrence) to ABSE on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM.
There pictured is the (failing) blue choke I replaced with a larger choke.
The one I took out *looked* like it might be a 60 or 75 uH choke, and I
put first a 100 uH choke in its place, and finally a 130 uH that would
just barely fit into the (plastic) cannister. In testing, the choke did
not seem to generate any heat, and my logic was as follows: if it did
cause the starter (ignitor) to overheat it would bring about the demise of
the NTE2419 SIDAC bi-directional thyristor diode immediately to it's side
(on the right in the JPEG) thereby shutting down the circuit. Below the
PCB (in the JPEG) is the ballast, which I did nothing with. Since I was
replacing a passive component with a passive component, I wasn't too
worried. Burn-in did not raise any suspicions (1/4 hour of operation in
my workshop). I would send more photos (and try again to figure out this
damn camera) but the light is currently in use. The experimenting I did
with the light only seemed to show that a lower inductance choke resulted
in a more "yellow" illumination, and a higher inductance gave a "whiter"
light. I can bring it down if there is truly cause for concern, just hate
to do so unnecessarilly. And there is nothing in the diagram referrenced
above like the small circuit I was working on inside the cover of the
lamp. Don't know what to think about that...

Thanks,

Dave



PS: Burn in was a 1/2 hour operation in my workshot, not 1/4 hour, as
written above. My bad. Sorry.

Dave

"Dave" writes:

"Dave" wrote in message
ca...

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
PeterD writes:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:22:52 -0600, "Dave" wrote:

Does the "starter" continue to function once the lamp is going, or does
it
"drop out"? Just wondering. I fixed my MIL's light by replacing the
defective coil being driven by the SIDAC NTE6419, but wife is worried
that
I'm going to burn her mom's house down. I put a larger coil in, and it
is
brighter than it was, so she is worried that it will overheat and catch
fire. I tell her not to worry cause if it overheats the SIDAC will
fail,
shutting the whole system down. But if the "starter" (labeled
"ignitor")
only comes on for a few seconds to get the lamp going, that would be
better
than ever.

Thanks for any feedback,

Dave

In the diagram at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp, near
the middle of the web page, please point out the 'starter' or
'igniter'? Most HPS lamps have just a ballast and the lamp bulb, at
least the ones I see.

Personally I'd strongly recommend not replacing the balast with
anything other than the properly designed balast, matched to the bulb.
Since you have made this change, I'd agree with your wife: the lamp is
likely unsafe and probalby should not be used.

And replacing the ballast with a different one has what to do with the
(mythical) starter? That leaves me confused...

Agreed.

And especially, no modification should be allowed that increases the
brightness of the lamp unless the lamp is confirmed to be operating at
the
spec'd current. Presumably in this case, it there was some other
problem resulting in reduced current. Brighter lamp - higher
temperature,
which can result in a quick failure, hopefully not very explosively.

If there is no external igniter circuit, there may be one built into
the lamp.

Don't believe everything you read in Wikipedia.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Hey all,

Thank you very much for the input, first of all. Secondly, I posted a
JPEG of the starter (labeled "ignitor" on the cannister which holds the
PCB and ciruit I am about to referrence) to ABSE on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM.
There pictured is the (failing) blue choke I replaced with a larger choke.
The one I took out *looked* like it might be a 60 or 75 uH choke, and I
put first a 100 uH choke in its place, and finally a 130 uH that would
just barely fit into the (plastic) cannister. In testing, the choke did
not seem to generate any heat, and my logic was as follows: if it did
cause the starter (ignitor) to overheat it would bring about the demise of
the NTE2419 SIDAC bi-directional thyristor diode immediately to it's side
(on the right in the JPEG) thereby shutting down the circuit. Below the
PCB (in the JPEG) is the ballast, which I did nothing with. Since I was
replacing a passive component with a passive component, I wasn't too
worried. Burn-in did not raise any suspicions (1/4 hour of operation in
my workshop). I would send more photos (and try again to figure out this
damn camera) but the light is currently in use. The experimenting I did
with the light only seemed to show that a lower inductance choke resulted
in a more "yellow" illumination, and a higher inductance gave a "whiter"
light. I can bring it down if there is truly cause for concern, just hate
to do so unnecessarilly. And there is nothing in the diagram referrenced
above like the small circuit I was working on inside the cover of the
lamp. Don't know what to think about that...

Thanks,

Dave

PS: Burn in was a 1/2 hour operation in my workshot, not 1/4 hour, as
written above. My bad. Sorry.

Sorry, where did you post the JPEG of your circuit?

Changing anything in the starter shouldn't affect how the lamp runs.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
"Dave" writes:

"Dave" wrote in message
ca...

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
PeterD writes:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:22:52 -0600, "Dave"
wrote:

Does the "starter" continue to function once the lamp is going, or
does
it
"drop out"? Just wondering. I fixed my MIL's light by replacing
the
defective coil being driven by the SIDAC NTE6419, but wife is
worried
that
I'm going to burn her mom's house down. I put a larger coil in, and
it
is
brighter than it was, so she is worried that it will overheat and
catch
fire. I tell her not to worry cause if it overheats the SIDAC will
fail,
shutting the whole system down. But if the "starter" (labeled
"ignitor")
only comes on for a few seconds to get the lamp going, that would be
better
than ever.

Thanks for any feedback,

Dave

In the diagram at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp,
near
the middle of the web page, please point out the 'starter' or
'igniter'? Most HPS lamps have just a ballast and the lamp bulb, at
least the ones I see.

Personally I'd strongly recommend not replacing the balast with
anything other than the properly designed balast, matched to the
bulb.
Since you have made this change, I'd agree with your wife: the lamp
is
likely unsafe and probalby should not be used.

And replacing the ballast with a different one has what to do with
the
(mythical) starter? That leaves me confused...

Agreed.

And especially, no modification should be allowed that increases the
brightness of the lamp unless the lamp is confirmed to be operating at
the
spec'd current. Presumably in this case, it there was some other
problem resulting in reduced current. Brighter lamp - higher
temperature,
which can result in a quick failure, hopefully not very explosively.

If there is no external igniter circuit, there may be one built into
the lamp.

Don't believe everything you read in Wikipedia.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Hey all,

Thank you very much for the input, first of all. Secondly, I posted a
JPEG of the starter (labeled "ignitor" on the cannister which holds the
PCB and ciruit I am about to referrence) to ABSE on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM.
There pictured is the (failing) blue choke I replaced with a larger
choke.
The one I took out *looked* like it might be a 60 or 75 uH choke, and I
put first a 100 uH choke in its place, and finally a 130 uH that would
just barely fit into the (plastic) cannister. In testing, the choke
did
not seem to generate any heat, and my logic was as follows: if it did
cause the starter (ignitor) to overheat it would bring about the demise
of
the NTE2419 SIDAC bi-directional thyristor diode immediately to it's
side
(on the right in the JPEG) thereby shutting down the circuit. Below
the
PCB (in the JPEG) is the ballast, which I did nothing with. Since I
was
replacing a passive component with a passive component, I wasn't too
worried. Burn-in did not raise any suspicions (1/4 hour of operation
in
my workshop). I would send more photos (and try again to figure out
this
damn camera) but the light is currently in use. The experimenting I
did
with the light only seemed to show that a lower inductance choke
resulted
in a more "yellow" illumination, and a higher inductance gave a
"whiter"
light. I can bring it down if there is truly cause for concern, just
hate
to do so unnecessarilly. And there is nothing in the diagram
referrenced
above like the small circuit I was working on inside the cover of the
lamp. Don't know what to think about that...

Thanks,

Dave

PS: Burn in was a 1/2 hour operation in my workshot, not 1/4 hour, as
written above. My bad. Sorry.

Sorry, where did you post the JPEG of your circuit?

Changing anything in the starter shouldn't affect how the lamp runs.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html



I posted it to alt.binaries.schematics.electronics on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM. It
was the best picture I could get out of my camera, but is still quite
blurry/out-of-focus.

Thanks,

Dave

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:40:59 -0600, "Dave" wrote:
Hey all,

Thank you very much for the input, first of all. Secondly, I posted a JPEG
of the starter (labeled "ignitor" on the cannister which holds the PCB and
ciruit I am about to referrence) to ABSE on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM. There
pictured is the (failing) blue choke I replaced with a larger choke. The
one I took out *looked* like it might be a 60 or 75 uH choke, and I put
first a 100 uH choke in its place, and finally a 130 uH that would just
barely fit into the (plastic) cannister. In testing, the choke did not seem
to generate any heat, and my logic was as follows: if it did cause the
starter (ignitor) to overheat it would bring about the demise of the NTE2419
SIDAC bi-directional thyristor diode immediately to it's side (on the right
in the JPEG) thereby shutting down the circuit. Below the PCB (in the JPEG)
is the ballast, which I did nothing with. Since I was replacing a passive
component with a passive component, I wasn't too worried. Burn-in did not
raise any suspicions (1/4 hour of operation in my workshop). I would send
more photos (and try again to figure out this damn camera) but the light is
currently in use. The experimenting I did with the light only seemed to
show that a lower inductance choke resulted in a more "yellow" illumination,
and a higher inductance gave a "whiter" light. I can bring it down if there
is truly cause for concern, just hate to do so unnecessarilly. And there is
nothing in the diagram referrenced above like the small circuit I was
working on inside the cover of the lamp. Don't know what to think about
that...

Thanks,

Dave


Dave, can you post the fixture's name and model information? Or a link
to a reseller selling the same basic unit that one might be able to
research the circuitry?

On Fri, 12 Feb 2010 09:58:45 -0600, "
wrote:




I posted it to alt.binaries.schematics.electronics on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM. It
was the best picture I could get out of my camera, but is still quite
blurry/out-of-focus.

Thanks,

Dave


Can you post it to a photos web site? Althought the binaries groups
are supposed to have binaries (hence the name!) many times not all
mirrors and downstream servers carry the binary posts.

" writes:

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
"Dave" writes:

"Dave" wrote in message
ca...

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" wrote in message
...
PeterD writes:

On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 08:22:52 -0600, "Dave"
wrote:

Does the "starter" continue to function once the lamp is going, or
does
it
"drop out"? Just wondering. I fixed my MIL's light by replacing
the
defective coil being driven by the SIDAC NTE6419, but wife is
worried
that
I'm going to burn her mom's house down. I put a larger coil in, and
it
is
brighter than it was, so she is worried that it will overheat and
catch
fire. I tell her not to worry cause if it overheats the SIDAC will
fail,
shutting the whole system down. But if the "starter" (labeled
"ignitor")
only comes on for a few seconds to get the lamp going, that would be
better
than ever.

Thanks for any feedback,

Dave

In the diagram at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp,
near
the middle of the web page, please point out the 'starter' or
'igniter'? Most HPS lamps have just a ballast and the lamp bulb, at
least the ones I see.

Personally I'd strongly recommend not replacing the balast with
anything other than the properly designed balast, matched to the
bulb.
Since you have made this change, I'd agree with your wife: the lamp
is
likely unsafe and probalby should not be used.

And replacing the ballast with a different one has what to do with
the
(mythical) starter? That leaves me confused...

Agreed.

And especially, no modification should be allowed that increases the
brightness of the lamp unless the lamp is confirmed to be operating at
the
spec'd current. Presumably in this case, it there was some other
problem resulting in reduced current. Brighter lamp - higher
temperature,
which can result in a quick failure, hopefully not very explosively.

If there is no external igniter circuit, there may be one built into
the lamp.

Don't believe everything you read in Wikipedia.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

Hey all,

Thank you very much for the input, first of all. Secondly, I posted a
JPEG of the starter (labeled "ignitor" on the cannister which holds the
PCB and ciruit I am about to referrence) to ABSE on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM.
There pictured is the (failing) blue choke I replaced with a larger
choke.
The one I took out *looked* like it might be a 60 or 75 uH choke, and I
put first a 100 uH choke in its place, and finally a 130 uH that would
just barely fit into the (plastic) cannister. In testing, the choke
did
not seem to generate any heat, and my logic was as follows: if it did
cause the starter (ignitor) to overheat it would bring about the demise
of
the NTE2419 SIDAC bi-directional thyristor diode immediately to it's
side
(on the right in the JPEG) thereby shutting down the circuit. Below
the
PCB (in the JPEG) is the ballast, which I did nothing with. Since I
was
replacing a passive component with a passive component, I wasn't too
worried. Burn-in did not raise any suspicions (1/4 hour of operation
in
my workshop). I would send more photos (and try again to figure out
this
damn camera) but the light is currently in use. The experimenting I
did
with the light only seemed to show that a lower inductance choke
resulted
in a more "yellow" illumination, and a higher inductance gave a
"whiter"
light. I can bring it down if there is truly cause for concern, just
hate
to do so unnecessarilly. And there is nothing in the diagram
referrenced
above like the small circuit I was working on inside the cover of the
lamp. Don't know what to think about that...

Thanks,

Dave

PS: Burn in was a 1/2 hour operation in my workshot, not 1/4 hour, as
written above. My bad. Sorry.

Sorry, where did you post the JPEG of your circuit?

Changing anything in the starter shouldn't affect how the lamp runs.

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/

I posted it to alt.binaries.schematics.electronics on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM. It
was the best picture I could get out of my camera, but is still quite
blurry/out-of-focus.

My newsreader doesn't get alt.binaries.schematics.electronics and Google
Groups has almost no postings for that group.

Maybe upload to YouTube or one of the other public photo-hosting Websites?

--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

(Samuel M. Goldwasser) writes:


My newsreader doesn't get alt.binaries.schematics.electronics and Google
Groups has almost no postings for that group.

Maybe upload to YouTube or one of the other public photo-hosting Websites?


I use sendspace.com & then pass around the link.


--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

"PeterD" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:40:59 -0600, "Dave" wrote:
Hey all,

Thank you very much for the input, first of all. Secondly, I posted a
JPEG
of the starter (labeled "ignitor" on the cannister which holds the PCB and
ciruit I am about to referrence) to ABSE on 2/2/10 at 3:30 PM. There
pictured is the (failing) blue choke I replaced with a larger choke. The
one I took out *looked* like it might be a 60 or 75 uH choke, and I put
first a 100 uH choke in its place, and finally a 130 uH that would just
barely fit into the (plastic) cannister. In testing, the choke did not
seem
to generate any heat, and my logic was as follows: if it did cause the
starter (ignitor) to overheat it would bring about the demise of the
NTE2419
SIDAC bi-directional thyristor diode immediately to it's side (on the
right
in the JPEG) thereby shutting down the circuit. Below the PCB (in the
JPEG)
is the ballast, which I did nothing with. Since I was replacing a passive
component with a passive component, I wasn't too worried. Burn-in did not
raise any suspicions (1/4 hour of operation in my workshop). I would send
more photos (and try again to figure out this damn camera) but the light
is
currently in use. The experimenting I did with the light only seemed to
show that a lower inductance choke resulted in a more "yellow"
illumination,
and a higher inductance gave a "whiter" light. I can bring it down if
there
is truly cause for concern, just hate to do so unnecessarilly. And there
is
nothing in the diagram referrenced above like the small circuit I was
working on inside the cover of the lamp. Don't know what to think about
that...

Thanks,

Dave


Dave, can you post the fixture's name and model information? Or a link
to a reseller selling the same basic unit that one might be able to
research the circuitry?

I'll see what I can do. From memory is a Regent 70W HPS Security light.
Home Depot carries them. Has a brown "cap" and faceted canopy around the
bulb, thus to spread the light without harsh shadows. Looking for the link
to this product, but can't find it yet. Will keep trying...

Thanks,


Dave