Update on my Compact Mono Block amps. After a lot of listening and
measuring, my amps have returned to triode- connected form. Output is down
to around 30 W (AB1) and feedback is now -14 dB. Attached are a few scope
shots at 1 KHz, 10 KHz and 20 KHz w/ 4 ohm R load at about 15 W out. Amp
will stay stable with down to about .68 uf C on the output (no R load). I
have a few other ideas to try but at this point, I may leave well enough
alone with the circuit.
Regards,
Mark
PS I hope to get the pix size right this time.

Oh man.. you're a really bad photographer, I mean really really bad! Your
pictures are composed of 10 x 10 pixels, saved as JPG, and weigh over
500kB, encoded! Once shrunken to screen resolution, it's clear your
pictures are shot at odd angles, out of focus, and encoded with terrible
color loss!

Here's three tips to draw from. I did:
- Shrink by 10x
- Sharpen out-of-focus pictures (not much help)
- Reduce to 16 colors (the additional loss of color depth is a moot point)
- Optionally, tweak palette (the gray in two pics was too bright)
- Save as 16-color GIF
- Post in all of what... 25 kilobytes?
And guess what, all these steps actually *salvage* the crap you posted. If
you had merely reduced the original photos and posted them, you could avoid
this flaming reply quite easily!

Tim

--
Deep Fryer: A very philosophical monk.
Website @ http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

"MarkS" wrote in message
...
Update on my Compact Mono Block amps. After a lot of listening and
measuring, my amps have returned to triode- connected form. Output is
down
to around 30 W (AB1) and feedback is now -14 dB. Attached are a few scope
shots at 1 KHz, 10 KHz and 20 KHz w/ 4 ohm R load at about 15 W out. Amp
will stay stable with down to about .68 uf C on the output (no R load). I
have a few other ideas to try but at this point, I may leave well enough
alone with the circuit.
Regards,
Mark
PS I hope to get the pix size right this time.

On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 10:30:05 -0600, "Tim Williams"
wrote:

Oh man.. you're a really bad photographer, I mean really really bad! Your
pictures are composed of 10 x 10 pixels, saved as JPG, and weigh over
500kB, encoded! Once shrunken to screen resolution, it's clear your
pictures are shot at odd angles, out of focus, and encoded with terrible
color loss!

Here's three tips to draw from. I did:
- Shrink by 10x
- Sharpen out-of-focus pictures (not much help)
- Reduce to 16 colors (the additional loss of color depth is a moot point)
- Optionally, tweak palette (the gray in two pics was too bright)
- Save as 16-color GIF
- Post in all of what... 25 kilobytes?
And guess what, all these steps actually *salvage* the crap you posted. If
you had merely reduced the original photos and posted them, you could avoid
this flaming reply quite easily!

Tim

The other trick is to get far away, 3 feet or so, zoom in, and use a
tripod or equivalent to stabilize the camera. Then use Irfanview to
tweak and resize. This one has a lot of info in 85 kbytes.

John

Ouch! Damn! Well, when your right, you right. Here is another try w/
resizing, might as well get it right now so next time you won't need to use
up all your spare acetylene and oxygen.
Mark



"Tim Williams" wrote in message
...
Oh man.. you're a really bad photographer, I mean really really bad! Your
pictures are composed of 10 x 10 pixels, saved as JPG, and weigh over
500kB, encoded! Once shrunken to screen resolution, it's clear your
pictures are shot at odd angles, out of focus, and encoded with terrible
color loss!

Here's three tips to draw from. I did:
- Shrink by 10x
- Sharpen out-of-focus pictures (not much help)
- Reduce to 16 colors (the additional loss of color depth is a moot point)
- Optionally, tweak palette (the gray in two pics was too bright)
- Save as 16-color GIF
- Post in all of what... 25 kilobytes?
And guess what, all these steps actually *salvage* the crap you posted.
If
you had merely reduced the original photos and posted them, you could
avoid
this flaming reply quite easily!

Tim

--
Deep Fryer: A very philosophical monk.
Website @ http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

"MarkS" wrote in message
...
Update on my Compact Mono Block amps. After a lot of listening and
measuring, my amps have returned to triode- connected form. Output is
down
to around 30 W (AB1) and feedback is now -14 dB. Attached are a few scope
shots at 1 KHz, 10 KHz and 20 KHz w/ 4 ohm R load at about 15 W out. Amp
will stay stable with down to about .68 uf C on the output (no R load). I
have a few other ideas to try but at this point, I may leave well enough
alone with the circuit.
Regards,
Mark
PS I hope to get the pix size right this time.

MarkS wrote:
Ouch! Damn! Well, when your right, you right. Here is another try w/
resizing, might as well get it right now so next time you won't need to use
up all your spare acetylene and oxygen.

Now you are getting the hang of it!
--
Regards,

John Popelish

Ah yes, I do that when tracing tube curves.

Setup:
- Isolation transformer with series current sense resistor and diode
(1N4007) connects to tube plate/cathode
- Variable negative supply connects to grid/cathode and voltmeter
- Scope to plate (10x probe) and sense resistor, X-Y mode
- Camera pointed at o'scope, as square as possible! (Tripod sits in front
of the bench, so it's about 2-3 feet away. A couple X optical zoom is
enough to fill about half the shot's area with the CRT, reducing spherical
abberation that otherwise comes with a tight shot.)
- Take one shot for every grid voltage you want recorded

Later...
- Crop images
- Draw curves of one bright solid color to fit the trace, and lines of
another color to fit the graticule (if set up well, you should notice the
lines are evenly spaced and have little slope, only a few pixels across the
whole screen)
- Strip away colors less vivid (the original image)
- Superimpose all the line drawings, add labels and finally, save as .GIF.

A lot of steps and hand work, but not bad for having everything on hand.

Tim

--
Deep Fryer: A very philosophical monk.
Website @ http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

"John Larkin" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 10:30:05 -0600, "Tim Williams"
wrote:

Oh man.. you're a really bad photographer, I mean really really bad!
Your
pictures are composed of 10 x 10 pixels, saved as JPG, and weigh over
500kB, encoded! Once shrunken to screen resolution, it's clear your
pictures are shot at odd angles, out of focus, and encoded with terrible
color loss!

Here's three tips to draw from. I did:
- Shrink by 10x
- Sharpen out-of-focus pictures (not much help)
- Reduce to 16 colors (the additional loss of color depth is a moot
point)
- Optionally, tweak palette (the gray in two pics was too bright)
- Save as 16-color GIF
- Post in all of what... 25 kilobytes?
And guess what, all these steps actually *salvage* the crap you posted.
If
you had merely reduced the original photos and posted them, you could
avoid
this flaming reply quite easily!

Tim

The other trick is to get far away, 3 feet or so, zoom in, and use a
tripod or equivalent to stabilize the camera. Then use Irfanview to
tweak and resize. This one has a lot of info in 85 kbytes.

John

On Sun, 2 Mar 2008 07:49:53 -0600, "Tim Williams"
wrote:

Ah yes, I do that when tracing tube curves.

Setup:
- Isolation transformer with series current sense resistor and diode
(1N4007) connects to tube plate/cathode
- Variable negative supply connects to grid/cathode and voltmeter
- Scope to plate (10x probe) and sense resistor, X-Y mode
- Camera pointed at o'scope, as square as possible! (Tripod sits in front
of the bench, so it's about 2-3 feet away. A couple X optical zoom is
enough to fill about half the shot's area with the CRT, reducing spherical
abberation that otherwise comes with a tight shot.)
- Take one shot for every grid voltage you want recorded

Later...
- Crop images
- Draw curves of one bright solid color to fit the trace, and lines of
another color to fit the graticule (if set up well, you should notice the
lines are evenly spaced and have little slope, only a few pixels across the
whole screen)
- Strip away colors less vivid (the original image)
- Superimpose all the line drawings, add labels and finally, save as .GIF.

A lot of steps and hand work, but not bad for having everything on hand.

Tim

The other thing I like to do is to stick a Post-It to the edge of the
screen, and note the date and the parameters of the display, maybe
even sketch a little circuit or something. Helps keep the photos
organized.

John

"John Larkin" wrote in message
...
The other thing I like to do is to stick a Post-It to the edge of the
screen, and note the date and the parameters of the display, maybe
even sketch a little circuit or something. Helps keep the photos
organized.

I often put V/div and time/div captions on my scope shots. It's so
annoying when people post oscillographs without numbers!

Tim

--
Deep Fryer: A very philosophical monk.
Website @ http://webpages.charter.net/dawill/tmoranwms

On Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:22:40 -0600, "Tim Williams"
wrote:

"John Larkin" wrote in message
.. .
The other thing I like to do is to stick a Post-It to the edge of the
screen, and note the date and the parameters of the display, maybe
even sketch a little circuit or something. Helps keep the photos
organized.

I often put V/div and time/div captions on my scope shots. It's so
annoying when people post oscillographs without numbers!

Tim

Nice shot.

John

I am asking for help here if this is not the right place to ask this that
you can direct me to the right newsgroup.
I am looking for a schematic on how to build and motor that will attach to
an spinning reel. I use to have a royal bee fishing reel.
But the man that made them passed away.... and the ones they make now are
to expensive.. .. I am trying to find away to build
one....If any one can help I would be very grateful. . if it is sending me
to the right group or able to postsomething here that is helpful..

Thank you

John C

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 22:29:18 GMT, wrote:

I am asking for help here if this is not the right place to ask this that
you can direct me to the right newsgroup.
I am looking for a schematic on how to build and motor that will attach to
an spinning reel. I use to have a royal bee fishing reel.
But the man that made them passed away.... and the ones they make now are
to expensive.. .. I am trying to find away to build
one....If any one can help I would be very grateful. . if it is sending me
to the right group or able to postsomething here that is helpful..

Thank you

John C


When starting a new thread in a newsgroup, you should post a new
message, not reply to an existing thread.

Without further information (an knowing nothing about Bass fishing), I
think that this project is primarily mechanical - how to mount the
motor to the reel (and perhaps what sort of motor to use). The
electrical bit would just involve power (12 volts from the boat
battery, probably) and a switch to turn the motor off and on.



--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
peterbb4 (at) interchange.ubc.ca
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca