jeff wrote:

The motors built in safety can do this, but -usually- needs a bit of
cooling down time before going again. Loose/burnt main power wire (
inside the dryer or in house feed ), door switch, door switch bracket,
timer ( broken/shifted cam inside the timer ), belt broken switch (
didn't see one on your model ).

Would you agree that if any of those were the problem, then it should show
the problem on just about any cycle?

Now, normally, when the thermostat (in red) senses dry air
The red mark on your diagram is a thermostat heater, makes the
thermostat cycle faster for lower/delicate heats, the operating
thermostat controls the normal on and off for the heat.

Opps, thanks for the correction. Is this thermostat located near the
exhaust?

The thermal fuse (in yellow) is described as being "not resettable",
which I think would describe a fuse similar to car fuses or old house
fuses. So if something were wrong with it, then the motor should not
spin at all.
If the thermal fuse opens it should stay open, unless someone has
changed it at one time?!!?

Good, so my problem can't be that.

I've seen other posts recommend the timer itself as being the problem.
I don't really believe that can be my problem. The dryer fails on both the
"Perm. Press" and "Knit Delicate" phases of the "Auto Dry I" setting.
It never stops on the "Timed Dry" or "Air Dry". If it was the timer, I
don't think pushing the "Start switch" would start it up again. However,
I can't eliminate it as the problem due it controlling so much in the dryer.
And I would rather only replace it if I knew it *is* the problem as Kenmore's
replacement part is $75.

*Might* be able to carefully remove the timers cover to inspect the
contacts and lifter cams inside.

Sounds like a good weekend project.

Thanks for the help Jeff.

Daniel
--
Daniel S. Schudel