On Jun 3, 10:53*am, Hank wrote:
On Jun 3, 8:21*am, "
wrote:





On Jun 2, 10:28*pm, Hank wrote:

On Jun 2, 1:01*pm, "
wrote:

On Jun 2, 12:50*pm, Greg wrote:

On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:

The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as well
as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch engaging
when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in the
house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).

A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
short order.

As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).

I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!

You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.

FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
great.- Hide quoted text -

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On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
that would not start. *I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. *And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.

While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. *When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. *Even pumping many
times makes no difference.

So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? *And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? * Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. *Any
other thoughts?

Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.

If it were the bulb, there would be air in the sending line as well
as the return line. *Also, I've never seen a bulb with an air leak
where fuel was not leaking out when it's pressed.

I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
your problem.

Hank- Hide quoted text -

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It might be a leak right where the return line joins the carb. *But
that's
where it would have to be because the bubbles are showing up right
where it leaves the carb. *Again, no bubbles going in the carb, only
bubbles coming out.

Obviously your experiences are different than mine. If I were to
repair his trimmer, the first thing I would do, with the symptoms he
gave, is to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb and spark plug.

I was not telling him what to do. I was asking about what to do
with MY problem, which is different.




This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out
the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying
to find out which one it is.

I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for
30+ years in a shop.

Hank- Hide quoted text -

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Then I would think that you would agree that air bubbles in the return
line
from the carb, with no air bubbles in the supply line
from the tank and priming bulb can't be due to a leaking bulb, or a
leak in the fuel line from the tank to the bulb, right? If there is a
leak,
it would seem to me that it would have to be right where the supply
fuel line connects to the carb or else in the carb itself. And if
it's
leaking at the connection to the carb, wouldn't there typically be
some fuel leaking visibly when the priming bulb is pushed? It's
forcing fuel into the carb, so if there was a leak, wouldn't some
fuel come out under pressure?

One basic question is should there ever be air bubbles in the fuel
return
line after priming it say 10 times?