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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default Need advice on how to 'repair' a kinked 75' plumbing snake (just busted)

On Mar 20, 11:48*am, "Martin C."
wrote:
On Tue, 20 Mar 2012 00:58:57 -0700, DD_BobK wrote:
http://www.cobraus.com/Products.aspx?Id=1022


Thanks for that hint for replacement cables for the Cobra drain cleaning
snakes. The Cobra pictured looks very similar to my "BrassCraft Drain
Cleaning Products, BC400 Series" snake, even down to the blue/yellow
color scheme.

The video was instructive for me to see problems with my technique:
a. I had not been using the set screw (too difficult to use).
b. I had been using reverse (I had thought that's how it went back into
the drum).
c. I had been using forward (to push the cable into the pipes)

From the video, it looks like you manually PUSH the cable to the tough
spots, then you lock down the screw, then you put it in forward (but it
can't move), then you unlock the screw and push forward again.

In the end, it looks like you turn the motor off and manually pull it
back.

In contrast, I had not been using the set screw (because it's way too
difficult and requires a wrench at all times); I had been using forward
continuously from the start to the 75 foot mark; and I had been using the
reverse to wind it back into the drum.

I guess THAT's why my 75-foot drain cleaning cable kinked!


hmmm...that's interesting.

I have rented 1/2" power snakes a number of times in the past few
years and have always run the machine in the forward position while
feeding it down the pipe and then running it in reverse while pulling
it out. I thought that that was how it was done.

I've never had a problem with kinking, although the cable has gotten a
bit wild when I've mistakenly left too much cable exposed between the
machine and the drain and the cable hits an obstruction. The cutter
stops and the rotating motion is confined to the exposed cable. I
always blame myself for that since it is easily preventable simply by
leaving less cable exposed. You just need to learn to lift your foot
as soon as things start to go bad. ;-)

I've tried pushing the cable by hand but trying to move 40 - 50 (up to
75) feet of cable without having the machine running in the forward
position is pretty hard work. With the machine in forward, the cable
just slowly walks down the drain on it's own. Why wouldn't I want it
to do that?

I've also tried pulling it back out without being in reverse and
that's just as hard. While the cable still needs to be pushed back
into the machine even while in reverse, it's much easier to do than
without the motor running.

Of course, it does make a mess as it throws black gunk around as it
spins. I build a tent with large pieces of cardboard to keep the spray
contained.

The video makes it look like a lot more work that it has to be.