On Jun 11, 11:05*am, "Mark Spice" wrote:
SWMBO is set on a new front door and wants one with multipoint locking.
However due to the render and finish on the house it will be a major pain in
the arse to try and fit a composite door with new frame. *Therefore a
standard replacement wooden door (which I prefer anyway) has been selected.
Has any tried using multipoint locking in such a door? Are there any
pitfalls that we should be aware of?

Cheers

MArk

Your joinery skills need to be excellent. You will need to cut the
stepped channel for the multipoint in the edge of the door with a
router, and the mortices for the mechanism(s). This really needs to be
precise, and right first time. You're probably going to have to hand
cut the hook/roller/latch strikers into the frame.

I fitted multipoint locks into a set of double doors on a chapel. The
slave door has bolts top and bottom into the frame, operated from a
central handle, with an internal thumbturn latch only, and a false
mullion to carry the hook/roller/latch striker plates for the master
door. The master door has bolts top and bottom into the frame, two
hooks, two rollers and a latch (with keyturn both sides) into the
slave door. Final results are excellent, I think it would take a
sledgehammer and some persistence to force them.

(if security is high on your agenda - and I guess it is if you've
chosen to fit a multipoint in a timber door - be aware that many euro-
cylinders are also vulnerable. Evva 3KS, if you can accept the cost,
is one of the best lock cylinders)

I'd recommend you use 3 or 4 lift-off hinges (I didn't, but
subsequently have started using them everywhere), as you may find you
have to tweak the fitting once or twice, and they reduce some of the
struggle with weight of the door. I also had the luxury of making the
doors and frame from scratch, so had the opportunity to cut the lock
channels/strikers before assembling the doors/frame.

PVC doors tend to have a bit of flex in them which provides some slop
for less than perfect alignment. With a solid timber door, your work
must be precise. There is some slop adjustment in the strikers, but
not the top and bottom bolts.

I don't want to put you off too much - but your joinery should be of
the level "I check my work with vernier callipers - because I sure
can't see any inaccuracies"

As ever, and like everything else, practice on some scrap material
first! It's very satisfying to engineer wood, and is doable with
plenty of patience, good chisel-work and a router.