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John Stumbles
 
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Default Securing shower arm/head to wall

"John Stumbles" ] wrote in message
...

"John" wrote in message
...
I have an interesting situation with a shower kit I`ve just bought. The
shower can be seen he
http://www.hudsonreed.co.uk/loadbuy5...7/sh/sh04.html

The shower valve itself is easy to fit to the wall (has holes for

screwing
to wall).
The shower arm and head on the other hand could be a problem as they are
quite heavy (and would be more so with water in them).
The kit comes with a 15mm to 1/2 inch compression elbow. which connects

the
1/2 inch shower arm to 15mm copper which would run to the valve (inside

a
stud wall).
What I can`t figure out is how to secure the shower arm to the wall. If

I
just used the elbow without any other fixing surely the arm would flop
hopelessly towards the floor because of the weight.
I had thought about using a wall plate adaptor (like the type used for
garden taps):
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...39626&id=17416 and a 1/2

inch
straight compression coupler to join to the shower arm.
This would provide more strength but I still don`t think this would be
enough to hold the shower arm horizontally without gravity taking hold.
How have others tackled this problem? - even the manufacturer can`t

help!

The last shower of that type I did was through a solid wall with the
plumbing on the other side from the shower cubicle, and I pushed the tube
through the wall and glued it in with lots of gripfill.

If as you say it's to go into a stud wall I'd be inclined to dig out the
wall, bung in a nice thick nogging, drill a 15mm hole in the nogging and
push (and glue) the pipe into that (with compression elbow on the back of

it
to connect to the shower valve).


.... however, if anyone twists the tube coming out of the wall (easy to do
since the shower head is easy to grab hold of and move sideways) they'd
break any glue joint and loosen the compression joint. (That wasn't a
show-stopper in the install I did as the joint was still accessible). If the
tube is chromed copper I'd solder it into an elbow behind the nogging, which
should mechanically secure it as well as being the correct sort of joint to
use in an inaccessible location.

You might be better scraping the chrome off the copper before soldering.

And you'd probably want to fix the nogging into the wall _after_ doing the
plumbing joints!


--
John Stumbles
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