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[email protected] clare@snyder.on.ca is offline
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Default leaking p-trap joint

On 24 Jan 2011 21:43:07 GMT, ddl@danlan.*com (Dan Lanciani) wrote:

In article , writes:
| On Jan 24, 1:10=A0pm, Limp Arbor wrote:
| Probably the old nut you took off had a built-in washer. =A0I too have
| copper drains and the nut that goes on the end has a thin piece built-
| in that hits the tapered portion inside the drain pipe and gets forced
| against the inserted pipe. =A0If the fitting on the inside end of your
| copper drain is cone shaped (gets smaller as goes in) the plastic
| tapered washers and the flat rubber washers are going to be tough to
| get a seal. =A0You may need to dig through the trash and find the old
| nut. =A0
|
| Ah, that may be the problem...
|
| Unfortunately, the nut was seized on to the copper fitting, I couldn't
| move it with an 18" pipe wrench, so I had to split it off. The nut is
| no more.

You could cut off the fitting and use a Fernco coupler. They make a special
one just for copper to tubular: the 3010-150. Or you could solder on a new
Marvel adapter. I was surprised to see that Home Depot actually carries
these in bronze. You might even be able to use the nut from one.

Dan Lanciani
ddl@danlan.*com

You need to remeber these "joints" are just REAL CRAPPY compression
fittings. If the copper pipe is nor perfectly round and smooth, and if
it is not VERY close to the same diameter as the plastic pipe the
coupling is made for, it WILL leak. I believe there is a special
coupling made to connect to copper - and there is definitely a
copper/brass fitting made to transition to ABS - which needs to be
soldered on. The "fernco" is also an option, of course, but it will
alwoys look like a "band-aid" solution.