blueman wrote:
I recently picked up the "high quality/high price" HVLP gun at HF
which had decent reviews and I assume corresponds to a low end
hopefully acceptable non-HF brand 
I've recommended HF guns to folks before and they've found them to serve
well. I've bought them for my son and they've served well. I have some
snob guns, so I don't own any HF guns, but I wouldn't be afraid to buy them.
I have shot with them at friend's places. I had a friend who did all the
prep work on his car repairs but was afraid to shoot it. I came over, did a
bit of final prep (more for my sake than anything else...), and shot it with
his HF HVLP gun. I had to get the feel of the gun on some scrap and I wish
it had a different tip, but within 10 minutes, I could get that gun to shoot
wonderfully. We got lucky on that shoot - very little - as in almost no
dust in the finish. Pulled the paper and tape, and saluted the car just as
she sat. Didn't buff a thing out. So - those guns can shoot just fine.
The secret is in watching your finish go on. Google my offerings to this
group from a couple of years ago about watching your shoot and imagining
spreading a sheet of plastic. With my guns, I don't have to watch too
closely. More of a casual glance to make sure I didn't lift and get a dry
spot, or the likes. With this HF gun - because it was a new gun in my hand
and its characteristics were different that what I am familiar with, I took
no chances. I watched every single pass. It took me some concentration to
get that gun to produce the results I'm used to with my guns, but that's
only because it was a different gun. It has nothing to do with it being a
HF gun.
However, I haven't had the time/guts to try it yet. And I assumed that
spraying epoxy is not the right place to start for beginners. I am
right in assuming lacquer might be a good first start?
Just as good as starting with anything else. Google the archives of this
group for a ton of advice Robert and I have thrown out there, to get
started. Just remember to start of some scrap and don't tackle any real
project until you've figured out the basics. Epoxy goes on pretty nice.
You don't have to worry about sags unless you really over do it. Lacquer
can give you more fits as a beginner because it can want to sag quicker if
you get a little heavy. It knocks down easily, but that's just more work.
Don't take any short cuts - get some scrap, and get some of the material
you're going to shoot. Practice. Every different type of finish will
require a different spray technique adjustment, so don't fool yourself into
thinking you can pick some universal finish who's required spray technique
will work for everything else. Then, there's all the environment
variables... Don't even try to figure that stuff out.
Keep that scrap on hand unitl you've sprayed enough to really know your gun.
After all that I've sprayed including cars that came from Chip Foose's
custom body shop, I still shoot against an old door or something else, if
I'm uncertain what a particular finish will act like. I may have my share
of pride, but I sure as hell hate sanding out runs and sags.
2. Started sanding at 220 which was enough to knock down the specks
and smooth out imperfections
I see you are a glutton for punishiment...
Yeah - I put so much time into it that I wanted to get it "right" even
if it took longer.
Yeah - I understand that, but you can do the same thing by starting at 600
and going immediately to 1000, then grab the buffer.
See - ya wouldn't just listen to me, would ya?
Mea Culpa - and I will know next time to listen to you over other
opinions...
Oh hell - that would be a mistake. I'm just another opinion. I'll argue
with some authority against opinions that are based on nothing more than
what people "think" would work, but there is more than one way to skin any
cat and there are people here with opinions as valid as mine, even though
they are different. My opinions (when I speak to spray techniques, finish
work, and the like) are well informed opinions, but it sure isn't the end
all. I'd go with Robert as the end all authority. That way, when it screws
up in any way, you can blame him...
In fact, I got a mix of opinions from various people so I tried the
sticks first since they had them available right next to the
buffers. When that didn't work, I made another trip to the auto supply
store...
By the way, what if anything are those sticks useful for? It doesn't
seem like they "charge" the bonnett with much if any compound so I
wonder how it ever does anything unless I am using it wrong...
Nothing that you're ever going to be rubbing out. If you're polishing out
chrome, stainless, etc., or jewlery, then they're fine. You won't find any
need of those though, along side your tablesaw, or any other tool that
suggests manly. In fact, a real man would just rub the work piece on his
chest hairs until he gets the finish he wants. There are some here who
would use other hairs - be wary of them...
Yeah - but it takes more work. I'd have hit it with a medium to fine
rubbing compound and then just cleaned it up (if even necessary)
with a swirl mark remover.
You're probably right but my thinking is that having gone already to
3000 on the wet-dry sandpaper that maybe I was "beyond" the rubbing
compound. Didn't take much work with the polishing compound to make it
work though...
Nope - 3000 still wants a medium cut rubbing compound. Then switch to a
polish or a swirl mark remover. (ultra-fine rubbing compound)
For the future, if I go with the rubbing compound, what grit (if any)
do I need to hit it with first with sandpaper -- i.e., do I still
need to sand up to grit XXX before starting to buff with rubbing
compound?
Wet sand with 600 if there are a lot of big dust nibs. First though, try
wet sanding with 1000. You'll be surprised what you can knock down with
1000 wet. If you have a good DA, you can do it dry, but be careful - you'll
drag crap if you're not careful.
Finally, how do I get a handle on the different grits and types of
rubbing vs. polishing compound. It wasn't clear from the labeling on
the various tubes and tins at the auto supply store what the
differences are?
To work from 1000 grit you can just stick with medium cut. I use 3M
products so if you have access to them at your local auto stores, look for
3M Perfect-It 06062. It's a good medium cut that will lift 1000 grit
scratches, and for a lot of people - that's as far as they go. It will
raise up quite a nice shine.
--
-Mike-