Yes, I do it all the time. Many brands say "Do not thin over x
percentage" or something like that. But that is partly to sell more,
partly to not violate the VOCs laws and partly because it is a
different product and won't brush or spray or dry as they indicate in
their instructions. But once the spirits dry out you are left with an
identical product, just a thinner coat.

3:1 Spirits to Poly is my formula. It will take a lot of stirring to
get it well mixed and should be re-stirred on occasion as it will
start to settle.

I like to brush it on and really flood the surface and work it with
the brush to break any surface tension and make sure it gets into the
grain. Then wipe it down with a smooth cloth that has been saturated
and rung partly dry, wiping it down to a consistent thin film.

It will start to tack up pretty fast but I always wait a minute or two
after I'm done doing the wipe down to look for any drips or dry-ish
spots but you only have a little time, just use a liitle wetter rag to
do touch up if it's starting to tack.

Watch for drip-outs or anti-wicking from seams of moldings and joints
for a few minutes also.

You can do 400 scuff sand in bewteen and do many coats until you have
what you want. I try to not sand until last coat but depends on how
much dust, wood grain raise, etc.

On Mar 3, 10:23*am, blueman wrote:
I notice that the Minwax Wipe-on Poly sells for more than the standard
brush-on Poly (in part becomes it comes only in smaller cans).

My understanding is that Wipe-on Poly is just regular polyurethane
diluted with mineral spirits.

Can I do just as well by making my own Wipe-on Poly from bulk
polyurethane by just adding mineral spirits? (Or are there other
"magical" ingredients that are added...)

If so, what ratio should I add it in?