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[email protected] clare@snyder.on.ca is offline
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Default Trouble with TORO Snow Blower

On Tue, 09 Dec 2008 17:22:41 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:

gecko wrote:
I have a problematic 1986 TORO CCR 2000 model 38180 snow blower
(thrower). It has always started on the first pull every year. Now
this year it is giving me fits.

It had a gas leak around the gas intake hose and the fuel bowl gasket.
I fixed both. The TORO has to be the most frustrating machine I have
ever worked on - you have to fairly well dismantle the housing to get
at any of the innards.

Anyway, now the thing will not start at all. I have tried squirting a
little starting fluid into the intake, but the engine will not 'fire'.
I changed to a new spark plug - it still will not 'fire'. I removed
the new spark plug and connected it back so I could observe whether it
'sparked' when I pulled on the starter rope. It did. I squirted a
little starter fluid into the combustion chamber itself, and
re-installed the spark plug. It still not 'fire'.

BTW - the key is on.

Anyway, I am wondering. Since the spark plug seems to be 'sparking'
okay, why on earth doesn't the starter fluid I squirted into the
combustion chamber at least 'fire' the engine, even if only once?
Also, would all this happen even if the key is off? IOW, could my
problem be that the key-switch is no working? It looks to act to
complete a ground circuit. I'm confused.

Thanks

-GECKO



You need three things for it to run. Fuel, in the correct mixture ratio
with air, compression, and spark. Does the compression feel normal when
you pull the cord? Is the spark strong enough to fire the compressed
mixture? The voltage required in the pressurized cylinder is much higher
than in free air. At that age it may have points and a condenser, if so,
replace and adjust those, they're cheap. Lastly, if you are getting too
much fuel and flooding it, the starting fluid won't fire. Did you muck
up the carburetor adjustment? Depending on the motor, you normally screw
in the needle valve fully, being careful not to over tighten and
shoulder it, then back it out either 1.5 or 3 turns, start, and adjust
from there.

The keyswitch is simple, it grounds the primary of the magneto where it
connects to the points in order to kill the ignition. Ground that and no
spark, engine shuts off. Open circuit and it can run.


A sheared key on the flywheel will still give spark, but it won't run.
Another common problem is a "wet" float. The rass float cracks, or
wears through, and fills with gas, making the float level too high,
flooding the engine.

Shut off the gas, crank it over with the choke on to draw out fuel
from the carb, pull the plug and using a long "butane match" clear the
cyl. Stand well back, and turn the engine over slowly - it will Whoosh
several times until it is dry. Warm the plug to be sure it is dry -
re-install and try to start. Use a small shot of ether if necessary.
If it fires now, you know you have a flooding problem.

Pull the float and get a replacement. (i've soldered a few, but trust
me, it is NOT worth the hassle unless you need the engine NOW and no
parts supplier is open/available,