"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
MC,

Originally, the copper pipe was soldered to a coupling that has a stub
on one end and 1/2" male thread on the other end. I cut the copper
pipe and unscrewed the coupling. So now the top of the valve has a
1/2" female threaded outlet.
I am thinking of using CPVC pipe instead for this concealed run. It's
code approved and a lot easier than copper with no need to solder.

I used CPVC when I plumbed our house. When connecting to valves and other
fixtures, I used a "transition fitting". Basically, it's a brass fitting
on one end, a CPVC fitting on the opposite end, and a gasket that gets
sandwiched between the two halves (held together with a threaded
coupling). The gasket is supposed to allow for the different expansion
rates of the two materials, but I don't know if there's any truth to
that. They're not cheap, about $5-10 each, but well worth it.

Here's a link to the type I used:

http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52...vc-unions-and-
couplings/transition-union-101536.aspx

These days I've been seeing a molded transition fitting, where the CPVC
fitting on one end is molded around the back end of a brass fitting. I
used these at my in-laws house, but I don't know how they compare with
the gasketed type.

In my case, the shower valve was not threaded, so I had to solder in a
small stub out to use with the transition fittings. I did that out in the
garage before I installed the valve, so I didn't have to worry about the
torch in close quarters. So, you have an advantage with a threaded shower
valve body.

I will do all the fittings using CPVC fittings except at the end of the
run I will probably use a sharkbite drop ear 90 to secure the CPVC to
a piece of wood for a ceiling mount shower arm.

There are also brass drop-ear transition fittings. It's a brass elbow
with ears you can secure to a wood block, with the same gasket and CPVC
stub on the bottom.

Here's the type I used:

http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52...tees/drop-ear-
elbow-101533.aspx

I used the transition elbows for the shower head, tub spout, and for all
the shutoff valves in the house. I mounted the elbow and stubbed it out
through the drywall with a small brass nipple (usually around 2 to 3
inches long). Then I used threaded shutoff valves.

CPVC is great to work with, but it won't hold up to situations of
physical stress. So the brass transition elbows are much more secure than
a CPVC drop-ear.

Anthony

Thanks. I saw one of those at HD, actually I I guess I could use either a
CPVC fitting, like the one on the bottom the

http://www.b2bbrassvalve.com/rimages/648/CLT-C004.jpg

or a sharkbite fitting, with a FPT connector on one end and a standard
push-fit on the other end.

MC